Removing RID

[Dave P]

Hello, 96 R1100RT, I'm trying to rebuild the feeble  and broken little plastic bosses that attach the RID to the inner fairing (I call it dashboard) it would be nice to unplug the RID so I can match it up and get the 3 new bosses positioned correctly and glued in. That connector is way up there, is there a trick to disconnecting that block or do I need to take the whole nose off? Dave

[Michaelr11]

If you remove the dash panel and then unscrew the RID from the panel, you should have all the room that you need.  I have repaired the legs of my RID with JB Weld.  JB makes a plastic epoxy too.  Apply some of the JB Weld to the broken area and then also apply some to the outside, over the cracks. It should hold. Try to press the rubber indents gently when changing the time of the clock.

 

[Dave P]

Michael- Thanks for the note, but I'm trying to remove the RID, completely. Trying to unplug it from the connector.

 

I did think tonight that if I remove the  right side snorkle tube, it might give me more room to reach in there and disconnect that white block. D

[Michaelr11]

11 hours ago, Dave P said:

Michael- Thanks for the note, but I'm trying to remove the RID, completely. Trying to unplug it from the connector.

 

I did think tonight that if I remove the  right side snorkle tube, it might give me more room to reach in there and disconnect that white block. D

 

Remove the RID permanently?

 

Once the dash is removed, the front fairing isn't that difficult to remove.  You might be able to just tip the fairing to give you access.  I've had the front fairing off 2 or 3 times.  After the first time, it's not that hard.  I have a set of lights attached to the bottom of the front fairing. That adds to the job.

[Dave P]

Well I just want to unplug it, use it loose to measure and rebuild those bosses, and then hook it back up and put it all back together. Not going to delete it, just unhook it temporarily.

 

my book says you have to take the whole windshield mechanism out to take that painted nose piece off. I had it off 8 years ago when I painted the bike but I don't remember taking that mechanism out. D

[Michaelr11]

24 minutes ago, Dave P said:

my book says you have to take the whole windshield mechanism out to take that painted nose piece off. I had it off 8 years ago when I painted the bike but I don't remember taking that mechanism out. D

 

Nope.  You have to remove the screen itself, not the motor.  That's just 4 screws - watch out for the little gaskets under the plastic.

[Dave P]

Crazy, weak little plastic bosses to hold that RID in place. I bet most if these old RTs have JB Weld glopped all over those bosses. D

[Warren Dean]

2 hours ago, Dave P said:

Crazy, weak little plastic bosses to hold that RID in place. I bet most if these old RTs have JB Weld glopped all over those bosses. D

Mine sure does. Pretty poor design but JB Weld saved the day.

[Dave P]

Adding 3 little bosses with brass inserts, need to locate them and neatly epoxy in place. D

[AndyS]

On 12/19/2020 at 12:24 AM, Warren Dean said:

Mine sure does. Pretty poor design but JB Weld saved the day.

 

I wouldn't say it was poor design. Those RID units have now been around for well over 20 years sitting in the crazy heat and freezing cold. They have done pretty well.

[Warren Dean]

10 hours ago, AndyS said:

 

I wouldn't say it was poor design. Those RID units have now been around for well over 20 years sitting in the crazy heat and freezing cold. They have done pretty well.

Opinions vary on what constitutes a good design or not....

[AndyS]

13 hours ago, Warren Dean said:

Opinions vary on what constitutes a good design or not....

Fait enough. but tell me what is poor about that design (over anything else on that bike). For example, a lot of the fabric cable tape across the whole bike is rotting away, does that make it a bad design?  The insulation on the HES cable degrades...well, that is a bad design with the insulation not being fir for service. Items like the RID seem perfectly fit for the expected service life of the bike.

[Warren Dean]

1 hour ago, AndyS said:

Fait enough. but tell me what is poor about that design (over anything else on that bike). For example, a lot of the fabric cable tape across the whole bike is rotting away, does that make it a bad design?  The insulation on the HES cable degrades...well, that is a bad design with the insulation not being fir for service. Items like the RID seem perfectly fit for the expected service life of the bike.

 

Who said anything about the rest of the bike?  The statement was in reference to the RID mounting design.

 

 

[AndyS]

My question/statement holds true...what is wrong with the design of the RID?

[Warren Dean]

35 minutes ago, AndyS said:

My question/statement holds true...what is wrong with the design of the RID?

 

I am not going to get into an internet pissing contest with you. You win.

[AndyS]

It's not about winning. What the gripes is the fact that you slag off the design of something without grounds. But like you, for the sake of all the other readers, I will draw a line under this.

[Warren Dean]

That's awfully nice of you. 

[Dave P]

I really just meant that the bosses that attach that RID are too small, would work better if they were beefier with some threaded inserts. I love the RID itself. Dave

[Warren Dean]

11 hours ago, Dave P said:

I really just meant that the bosses that attach that RID are too small, would work better if they were beefier with some threaded inserts. I love the RID itself. Dave

Precisely. That is my argument, hence the view that it is a poor design. 

 

I would bet a dollar, cash American, that most, if not all, get broken when the bike gets washed from pressing too hard on the face. Mine (2nd hand) came pre-broken .

 

That will never happen again thanks to JB Weld. 

 

 

[Dave P]

Here's what I did, might put lock washers on under those plastic screw on barrels. Dave

[Warren Dean]

Very nicely done. BMW should have done that to begin with.