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Checking the TPS Voltages as first step to solving the backfire on drop to idle issue on my 1994 ( early R1100RSL )


Bill Cats

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DL and folks - 

I " hopefully " will be out there tomorrow to do valve adjustment check and get the requested TPS measurements ( only ) you folks were asking about )) 

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10 hours ago, Bill Cats said:

DL and folks - 

I " hopefully " will be out there tomorrow to do valve adjustment check and get the requested TPS measurements ( only ) you folks were asking about )) 

Morning Bill 

 

There is another way to check your TPS adjustment, problem is that will check it to a voltage below the .380-385v we used to set them to but it is closer to the original factory setting. It will at least allow a quick check without having to mess with accessing the TPS connector area. 

 

For your backfiring problem the lower (factory setting) is probably better anyhow. 

 

I had some concern on the early 1100RS about  using the process but James was kind enough to verify that it worked on his own personal early 1100RS.

 

Check your messages on this site as I just sent you the info. 

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11 hours ago, Still CAL said:

Hey Bill, don't think it was answered in your other thread, but your VIN codes out as an R1100RS manufactured in 08/1993. Go here to decode Beemer VINS: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select

Cheers,

Richard

Thank Much DR and SC ;)))  its CCCOOOLLLDD out there today ..I " might " fire up the wood stove ,,, ill keep you posted

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On 12/15/2020 at 6:08 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning Bill 

 

There is another way to check your TPS adjustment, problem is that will check it to a voltage below the .380-385v we used to set them to but it is closer to the original factory setting. It will at least allow a quick check without having to mess with accessing the TPS connector area. 

 

For your backfiring problem the lower (factory setting) is probably better anyhow. 

 

I had some concern on the early 1100RS about  using the process but James was kind enough to verify that it worked on his own personal early 1100RS.

 

Check your messages on this site as I just sent you the info. 

Hey DirtRider --

I been suffering from a case of 0 lazy ass - and garage has been 20 degreed lol - 

sssoooo JUST got my " generic brake lines in ( front only )  - put them on last night and all checks out ( brakes feel like they have a " pinch " - no pun intended - of drag BUT it was cold in there and as soon as i spin the tire a couple times things feel way better so I'm feeling ok about that repair - 

My ABS been flashing since i bought the bike  -I'm HOPING that this was the issue and the line had been semi clogged a while - before i replaced the line you could NOT pump fluid through the bad line... 

Is the some special way to clear an abs code or is it like a car - it will clear IF all is good ...

THE TPS is next  - ill go through the quoted TPS Procedure next

Thanks 

 

 

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15 hours ago, Bill Cats said:

Hey DirtRider --

I been suffering from a case of 0 lazy ass - and garage has been 20 degreed lol - 

sssoooo JUST got my " generic brake lines in ( front only )  - put them on last night and all checks out ( brakes feel like they have a " pinch " - no pun intended - of drag BUT it was cold in there and as soon as i spin the tire a couple times things feel way better so I'm feeling ok about that repair - 

My ABS been flashing since i bought the bike  -I'm HOPING that this was the issue and the line had been semi clogged a while - before i replaced the line you could NOT pump fluid through the bad line... 

Is the some special way to clear an abs code or is it like a car - it will clear IF all is good ...

THE TPS is next  - ill go through the quoted TPS Procedure next

Thanks 

 

 

Afternoon Bill 

 

Most ABS faults will clear on their own at key on, or at the ride-away check ,but not ALL will as there are a couple of latching failures that do need an ABS reset. 

 

ABS-II reset___

 

First, find the diagnostic connector (located under the seat).

 

Then, insert one end of a wire into the middle socket of that connector. 

 

Then, ground the other end of that wire to a (clean) metal part of frame or good (clean) ground area (make sure it stays grounded). 

 

Next, turn on ignition switch. You should now see the warning lights flash alternately.  

 

Next, hold ABS button down for a long 8 seconds. The bottom ABS light should stay on, and the top light should be off. 

 

Then, release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS system then both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to hold button for 8 seconds, or your ground is not good, then the top ABS light will probably stay off.

 

 

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