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Switched Power - 15RT WC


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I'm about ready to start wiring up my Fuzeblock on my recently acquired '15RT.


Since I never have a pillion (wife has her own bike) I thought utilizing the heated seat plug would be perfect,

since I disconnected it.  


Before I start poking holes in wires to determine which wire is hot when the ignition switch is on, I thought I'd

ask this learned group first.


I have a choice of three: white/blue stripe, white/yellow stripe, and a third multi colored wire.  The brown wire

is obviously the ground/earth.


I normally try to tap a running light, but thought WTH, the heater plug is right there not being used.


Any help would be greatly appreciated, etc. etc. etc.


Thanks, TM

RT Plug.jpg

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Hey TM,

I can't say for sure without digging out the full wiring diagram about the wires to the plug you have in mind, but…

Here is where I have picked up the switched "trigger" wire for my FuzeBlock.

It's just aft from the frame crossbar at the pillion seat aft end.

The wire you want is red/green trace in a fabric taped run.

Using the PosiTap is an easy way to get the signal to the FuzeBlock and it's not too destructive to the wiring.

Hope this helps.


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46 minutes ago, Paul De said:

I have a question of curiosity.  Has anyone had the CANbus put out a fault warning, or shut down the circuit spliced into? 

Morning Paul


If the  CanBus  shut down then nothing would be working, no speed signal to anything, no individual system faults sent to anything including the dash warning lights, no module to module communication, anything using the Controller Area Network would be gone. 


You are probably talking about an individual circuit  shutting down  due to sensing an open or overload (correct)? This would not be a  CanBus thing (Controller Area Network) as the CanBus is only the communication part not the load sensing or electronic circuit protection part. 


To answer your question:  if you are referring to a computer controlled circuit shutdown due to sensing an overload then the answer is yes. I have seen a few (mostly adding high load accessories without powering through an added power relay with the accessory load input being provided from the battery.  (plugging a 15 amp air compressor directly into a 10amp accessory power outlet would be one example as it would quickly shut  that circuit down)


I haven't seen any issues when a computer controlled circuit is ONLY used to power a switching relay, especially if the switching relay has an internal clamping resistor to reduce back EMF as shutdown.



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I've used that red/green wire as a trigger in two different GSAs. Never threw a CAN bus error. On this bike it's telling my Neutrino to wake up, on the previous bike it was powering the relay in a Denali PowerHub 2.


FWIW, I've decided that the PowerHub is the better solution for me. The electronic ones have a small parasitic draw because they need to power the circuitry that detects the power-on event. So they can drain the battery if left alone for a month or so. The PowerHub draws nothing until the relay is triggered. I've left my bike for months over the winter without putting it on a charger, and it started right up.

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I don’t think it has any draw. That wire is not powered after the CAN—bus times out. 

The FuzeBlock uses a miniature  solenoid that when energized allows full current from the direct connections to the battery. 

The “always hot” circuits could have some parasitic draw, depending on what is in them, but the FuzeBlock itself doesn’t take any power. 

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TexasMule, the best place for me was to tap into the switched power circuit that powers the front socket. I bought a splitter at the dealer (to keep the socket connected) and wired my Moto PowerPuck charger. Worked ever since April without any issues (well, I take it back, you have to be careful how you place your phone on the charger as sometimes it interferes with recognizing the key, in case you have a keyless start system). But never intereferes with the start procedure as the power is switched off when you are starting the bike.

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Prof,  I removed the front socket and I'm replacing it with a direct wired one.  That socket is too important not to use for air compressor,

battery charger, etc.   That's a good location for switched power if my FuzBlock wasn't so far aft of the bike.  

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