Changing transmission and final drive oil question

[Miguel!]

I know I need to/should warm up the engine before changing the engine oil. Do I need to have the transmission and final drive warmed up first to change them? I can let them drain overnight. Thanks. Miguel

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Miguel! said:

I know I need to/should warm up the engine before changing the engine oil. Do I need to have the transmission and final drive warmed up first to change them? I can let them drain overnight. Thanks. Miguel

Morning   Miguel!

 

Engine oil warm-up is usually best as it stirs up the stuff that settles on the bottom of the crankcase plus warm oil drains out better.  But if you change the oil often then you probably don't have much of anything settled out in the crankcase  so you could probably drain it cold but allow it to drain for a couple of days. 

 

Every once in a while I have a reason to do a pre-storage oil drain prior to storage-- I do an overnight oil drain with filter removal  then next day replace the drain pan with a small clean container then allow it to sit that way for another day. When I quit seeing much oil in that small contain I call it good.

 

Same with the transmission & final drive-- best to do them after a ride but if allowed to sit & drain for couple of days most all will come out.  

[Paul De]

I have done this but be careful.   If you want to warm the oil and it is too icy to ride,  with no end in sight, then photon warming can work well. In a cold space like an unheated garage, or alleyway, away from wind take a halogen work lamp (a 500 watt light is best and the newer LED work lights wont work) and nestle it near the engine, or transmission cases but not too close to any painted surfaces or other low temp rubber and plastic bits. I would start at 2-3 feet from the object to be warmed, but you may need to move a little closer, but you won't need to be up against the cases.  Doing this with an Oilhead the tupperwear would come off at least one side and belly ban as well as you want to direct the light to the lower part of the cases. Turn on the light and go do something else for a good while.  Check frequently early on to make sure you are not roasting something that shouldn't be.  It might take an hour or two for the engine and trans cases, less for the final drive.   This won't get the settled stuff suspended in the oil like riding will but will allow you to warm up everything for a nice full drain.  Again, I caution to be careful to not roast paint of other plastic items because you'll be surprised how warm you can get the items being blasted with the halogen lamp.

[Miguel!]

Thanks DR and Paul De.

I am just trying to plan my activities as I have a lot moving parts in my life. I live in an area that doesn't have cold temps (we never get snow and rarely ice) and can pretty much ride year round. I just checked and my garage is in the high 50s. I generally ride 2-4 times a week, usually in the afternoon, and often don't have time to work on the bike when I get back when the fluids would be warm. Hence my question. I have a couple liters of Spectro 4 GL-5 coming on Friday and was hoping to change the fluids next Saturday.Thanks for the input. I'll do a short 1 hour ride before changing the transmission and final drive fluids. I changed the engine oil a couple months ago. Cheers. Miguel

[9Mary7]

Our friend Miguel! is in beautiful Santa Cruz, California......... Snow and ice? Not so much.............