Finally

[RPG]

After moving into my new place over two years ago, I've been putting off installing a garage heater, but luckily I'll have that done soon.

 

So that has me anticipating all the work I'll be doing on my RT. It's a 2004 with 110k. I'm planning on riding it to the MOA National next year (hoping it's not cancelled) and the bike still has the following original parts that I'm thinking I'll want to address.

Overall, the bike has never run better. Starts and idles perfect.

 

• Clutch, no current issues but plan on replacing with a modified plate that has a longer spline section over the tranny input
• Rear main seal, nothing leaking but figure on replacing while I'm in there
• Tranny front input shaft seal, no leaks but.....
• Front wheel bearings, seem fine, but wondering if the mileage might be a factor in the long run
• TB shafts, I haven't checked for play but not getting any real problems
• Paralever bearings, last serviced/greased about 30k ago. Will check for brinneling and maybe upgrade to these? https://www.beemershop.com/product/ei-paralever-bushing-kit-for-r1100s-r1150rgsgsartrs-k1200sltgt.html
• Driveshaft spline lube and grease u-joints (installed by Bruno many years ago). will check the u-joints but expect no problems
• Rear end, since new it's had about .002" movement when checking at 12 and 6 on the tire. Still same amount of movement with 110k, and no flakes or other crap in the oil when changed.
• Brake lines, clutch line. I plan on installing new Spiegler units
• Heads, the motor uses almost zero oil still,  but wondering if the mileage might necessitate pulling them, cleaning the carbon and maybe a valve job and new seals
• Fuel pump, original unit, should it be replaced based on the mileage
• Alternator has a new belt and already upgraded with the higher output voltage regulator so no issues there at present

 

Looking for your collective wisdom on whether to address all of these (preventative maintenance), or worry about them if/ when they fail?

 

Thanks for you input,

RPG

[dirtrider]

Morning Rick

 

Clutch, no current issues but plan on replacing with a modified plate that has a longer spline section over the tranny input-- You might see if you can measure the disk thickness & disk rotational play before making a decision on this. If it's not slipping, no oil on it, & thickness is still good then why introduce another variable in a system that is still good? Now if you have rotational play or a worn thin disk then go after it. 

 
Rear main seal, nothing leaking but figure on replacing while I'm in there-- See above, if you don't need to address the clutch then why tear it apart to replace a non-leaking seal. I have seen WAY more leaking rear main seals after a new seal install than from a good condition original seal (now if yours shows signs of leaking then do replace it). 

Tranny front input shaft seal, no leaks but.....-- If you are in there then sure replace it.

Front wheel bearings, seem fine, but wondering if the mileage might be a factor in the long run-- Yes, this would probably be a good plan.  Or do them at next front tire change.  

TB shafts, I haven't checked for play but not getting any real problems-- Check them but you probably have wear. Probably a good idea to replace while you have the motorcycle off the road for the winter.

Paralever bearings, last serviced/greased about 30k ago. Will check for brinneling and maybe upgrade to these? https://www.beemershop.com/product/ei-paralever-bushing-kit-for-r1100s-r1150rgsgsartrs-k1200sltgt.html-- Not a bad idea to replace as those do brinnel over time. 

Driveshaft spline lube and grease u-joints (installed by Bruno many years ago). will check the u-joints but expect no problems-- If you do the swing arm bearings then probably a good idea to also do these.

 
Rear end, since new it's had about .002" movement when checking at 12 and 6 on the tire. Still same amount of movement with 110k, and no flakes or other crap in the oil when changed.-- If you have a good crown bearing NOW then why install a new one that might be worse  for durability. 

Brake lines, clutch line. I plan on installing new Spiegler units-- Yes to new ones here is a good idea.

 

Heads, the motor uses almost zero oil still,  but wondering if the mileage might necessitate pulling them, cleaning the carbon and maybe a valve job and new seals-- This one could be a good or could open up Pandora's box. One thing usually leads to another in this area so where do you stop. Run a good compression test & if found extremely high suspect carbon.  Also do a good leak-down test, if OK then why enter that rat hole?  

Fuel pump, original unit, should it be replaced based on the mileage-- This is probably a good idea as they do wear over time. 

Alternator has a new belt and already upgraded with the higher output voltage regulator so no issues there at present-- Over-running pulley & slip ring brushes are your biggest concern here as (I think I remember you already replacing the pulley????) 
 

 

[RPG]

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Rick

 

Clutch, no current issues but plan on replacing with a modified plate that has a longer spline section over the tranny input-- You might see if you can measure the disk thickness & disk rotational play before making a decision on this. If it's not slipping, no oil on it, & thickness is still good then why introduce another variable in a system that is still good? Now if you have rotational play or a worn thin disk then go after it. 

 
Rear main seal, nothing leaking but figure on replacing while I'm in there-- See above, if you don't need to address the clutch then why tear it apart to replace a non-leaking seal. I have seen WAY more leaking rear main seals after a new seal install than from a good condition original seal (now if yours shows signs of leaking then do replace it). 

Tranny front input shaft seal, no leaks but.....-- If you are in there then sure replace it.

Front wheel bearings, seem fine, but wondering if the mileage might be a factor in the long run-- Yes, this would probably be a good plan.  Or do them at next front tire change.  

TB shafts, I haven't checked for play but not getting any real problems-- Check them but you probably have wear. Probably a good idea to replace while you have the motorcycle off the road for the winter.

Paralever bearings, last serviced/greased about 30k ago. Will check for brinneling and maybe upgrade to these? https://www.beemershop.com/product/ei-paralever-bushing-kit-for-r1100s-r1150rgsgsartrs-k1200sltgt.html-- Not a bad idea to replace as those do brinnel over time. 

Driveshaft spline lube and grease u-joints (installed by Bruno many years ago). will check the u-joints but expect no problems-- If you do the swing arm bearings then probably a good idea to also do these.

 
Rear end, since new it's had about .002" movement when checking at 12 and 6 on the tire. Still same amount of movement with 110k, and no flakes or other crap in the oil when changed.-- If you have a good crown bearing NOW then why install a new one that might be worse  for durability. 

Brake lines, clutch line. I plan on installing new Spiegler units-- Yes to new ones here is a good idea.

 

Heads, the motor uses almost zero oil still,  but wondering if the mileage might necessitate pulling them, cleaning the carbon and maybe a valve job and new seals-- This one could be a good or could open up Pandora's box. One thing usually leads to another in this area so where do you stop. Run a good compression test & if found extremely high suspect carbon.  Also do a good leak-down test, if OK then why enter that rat hole?  

Fuel pump, original unit, should it be replaced based on the mileage-- This is probably a good idea as they do wear over time. 

Alternator has a new belt and already upgraded with the higher output voltage regulator so no issues there at present-- Over-running pulley & slip ring brushes are your biggest concern here as (I think I remember you already replacing the pulley????) 
 

 

Thank you so much D.R. I'll take your advice and yes, I did have a problem with the over-running pulley on the alternator and replaced it with a standard unit. No problems since then, thanks to your guidance.

 

[fatbob]

You need to replace the clutch slave cylinder!   Mine leaked at 53K and trashed my clutch.   
 

make sure to use new BBY fuel lines inside the tank with your new fuel pump and filter.   It’s a great kit with semi rigid nylon accordion fuel lines.   
 

the Spiegler brake line kit is excellent.   
 

I sent my rear end to Saddleman for rebuild when I did my clutch.    Just a pre-emptive strike.    
 

i had very little wear on my trans input shaft.   I bought an aftermarket clutch from BBY with long splines.   It took about 3,000 miles for that clutch spline to “wear into” the trans shaft.   Engaging the clutch was “shuddery” until it wore in.   After the 3K I was very happy.   
 

Dirtriders advice is right on the money.