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R1150R - Aux. Power Circuits?


Achilles8857

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Currently got the bike broken down (that is, tank off) for other minor repairs, service and potential improvements.

 

Would like to add two (2) future Key-ON, (and presumably Start-OFF) aux power circuits:

- a handlebar mounted two port USB power supply for a) GPS and b) phone charger; could be switched

- fork mounted LED's to supplement the main headlight (a common upgrade) and for safety

 

Any recommendations for where and how (e.g. electrical devices; fuses? relays?) to splice in these circuits is much appreciated.

I do have the bike's wiring diagrams and can do basic electrical fab.

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Use a relay to provide the power.  Trigger the relay by tapping into the parking lamp wire (Grey/Black).  That will give you a circuit that is off with key off,  on with the key on and it will go off when you hit the starter motor (load shed relay).

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2 hours ago, Achilles8857 said:

Currently got the bike broken down (that is, tank off) for other minor repairs, service and potential improvements.

 

Would like to add two (2) future Key-ON, (and presumably Start-OFF) aux power circuits:

- a handlebar mounted two port USB power supply for a) GPS and b) phone charger; could be switched

- fork mounted LED's to supplement the main headlight (a common upgrade) and for safety

 

Any recommendations for where and how (e.g. electrical devices; fuses? relays?) to splice in these circuits is much appreciated.

I do have the bike's wiring diagrams and can do basic electrical fab.

Morning  Achilles8857

 

Being an R bike & not an RT sort of limits your options.

 

If you want/need  a   (Key-ON and  Start-OFF)  controlled circuit then you need a load-relief relay controlled circuit, on your R bike -- the best one there is to use an add-a-fuse or fuse-tap to tap into the power-in or power-out side of fuse # 4 to control the added power relay that is (fused) battery-direct for your 12v power source. 

 

Depending on how, or what, you use to tap into fuse 4,  with no added fuse in the relay control circuit then you would use the power-out side of fuse 4,  if you use an add-a-fuse to control your relay then use the power-in side of fuse 4, then fuse the relay control circuit to  a lower than the stock fuse rating  (I believe fuse 4 is now a 7.5 amp so fuse your relay control circuit with a 4 amp fuse.

 

In any case be darn sure to fuse the relay's 12v power-in from the battery with a proper sized fuse.

 

5JggypV.jpg

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10 hours ago, Michaelr11 said:

Use a relay to provide the power.  Trigger the relay by tapping into the parking lamp wire (Grey/Black).  That will give you a circuit that is off with key off,  on with the key on and it will go off when you hit the starter motor (load shed relay).

Evening  Michael 

 

On the OP's 1150 (R) bike that gray/black side light (parking light) wire will go on & off with the key but doesn't get powered by, or go through, the load relief relay so it stays powered during starter operation. 

 

The side light circuit comes out of the ignition switch on the 58a (gray wire), then directly  to  #2 fuse,  then through fuse #2, then directly on to the side light on the gray/black wire  (no load relief relay control of that circuit).

  

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I used an Add-a-Tap to add another fused circuit.It takes the place of one of the fuses which is then installed in the Add-a-Tap and a second fuse is installed to add another circuit. A red wire off the Add-a-Tap provides the power to the second circuit. Installation is less then 5 minutes.  The Add-a-Tap I'm holding in my left hand allowed me to separately fuse my Corbin seat heater which required a 7.5A fuse, without touching any of the bike's wiring.It fits without modification to the fuse box except for a small notch (cut with a utility knife) on the bottom of the picture to allow the seat heater wire to exit the fuse box. The Add-a-Tap is a clever little device. You can easily add more than 1 device. 

 

Hope that helps

Miguel

IMG_1180.jpeg.5d8da97f2dc87bd1fec06a1706478c4d.jpeg

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On 11/7/2020 at 2:06 PM, Miguel! said:

 

I used an Add-a-Tap to add another fused circuit.It takes the place of one of the fuses which is then installed in the Add-a-Tap and a second fuse is installed to add another circuit. A red wire off the Add-a-Tap provides the power to the second circuit. Installation is less then 5 minutes.  The Add-a-Tap I'm holding in my left hand allowed me to separately fuse my Corbin seat heater which required a 7.5A fuse, without touching any of the bike's wiring.It fits without modification to the fuse box except for a small notch (cut with a utility knife) on the bottom of the picture to allow the seat heater wire to exit the fuse box. The Add-a-Tap is a clever little device. You can easily add more than 1 device. 

 

Hope that helps

Miguel

IMG_1180.jpeg.5d8da97f2dc87bd1fec06a1706478c4d.jpeg

Also a good option.

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On 11/6/2020 at 6:52 PM, dirtrider said:

Evening  Michael 

 

On the OP's 1150 (R) bike that gray/black side light (parking light) wire will go on & off with the key but doesn't get powered by, or go through, the load relief relay so it stays powered during starter operation. 

 

The side light circuit comes out of the ignition switch on the 58a (gray wire), then directly  to  #2 fuse,  then through fuse #2, then directly on to the side light on the gray/black wire  (no load relief relay control of that circuit).

 

This one yes?

Untitled.thumb.jpg.6655df1cdedd0396854b1a9b60980dc8.jpg

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22 minutes ago, Achilles8857 said:

This one yes?

 

Yes, that one.  It's easy enough to check.  Find your side light.  See if the bulb is still working - they often burn out and just never get replaced. Key On, light goes on, press starter and what happens to the side light?  

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Just now, Michaelr11 said:

 

Yes, that one.  It's easy enough to check.  Find your side light.  See if the bulb is still working - they often burn out and just never get replaced. Key On, light goes on, press starter and what happens to the side light?  

Eh, side light? That has me confused, sorry, the coffee hasn't kicked in.

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49 minutes ago, Achilles8857 said:

This one yes?

 

Morning Achilles8857

 

Yes, as you can see the side light circuit  is  directly out of ign switch, then through fuse #2, then directly to side light so it will go on & off with the key but doesn't get powered by or get controlled by the load relief relay so it stays on during engine cranking (one of your requirements was that it go off during engine cranking).

 

It will also leave your (added) relay powered up  with key in Park position. 

 

BMW calls the parking light the side light, so proper term is "side light".  It is pretty well a stand alone circuit as some countries require the side light & tail light remain on with vehicle parked along the side of a public road (therefor the "P" position on the key switch), this allows the side light & tail light to be the ONLY things to stay on so the battery doesn't go dead quickly when parked.  

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On 11/6/2020 at 6:52 PM, dirtrider said:

The side light circuit comes out of the ignition switch on the 58a (gray wire), then directly  to  #2 fuse,  then through fuse #2, then directly on to the side light on the gray/black wire  (no load relief relay control of that circuit).

 

I looked at a circuit diagram for the 1100RT, and the gray/black wire appears to me to follow the same path that you describe.  And yet, when I start my RT the extra driving lights that I added go off when I press the starter.  I don't know why, I just know that it works.  I simply suggest that the original poster here just check.

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6 minutes ago, Michaelr11 said:

 

I looked at a circuit diagram for the 1100RT, and the gray/black wire appears to me to follow the same path that you describe.  And yet, when I start my RT the extra driving lights that I added go off when I press the starter.  I don't know why, I just know that it works.  I simply suggest that the original poster here just check.

Morning Michael

 

Are you sure that they go out & not just dim way down due to lower system voltage during engine cranking.  

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13 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Michael

 

Are you sure that they go out & not just dim way down due to lower system voltage during engine cranking.  

 

Yes, I am quite sure they go out.  

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1 hour ago, Michaelr11 said:

 

Yes, I am quite sure they go out.  

Afternoon Michael

 

OK, just looked at my BMW wire schematic, on your 1100RT the side light is backfed from the headlight circuit so it very well could go off with the load relief relay.

 

Got me wondering____

So, just dug a little deeper into the side light circuit on the 1100R bikes, I have probably 10 different BMW wire diagrams on those 1100R bikes, looks like early 1100R bikes had side light staying on with the later ones possibly being  tied into the headlight circuit (so load relief controlled) -- Nothing showing the change-over date or model year change-over or any by-country requirements.  

 

When it comes to the lighting wiring on the older BMW 1100/1150 bikes it is all over the map due to the different requirements of lighting laws in different countries.   

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2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

It will also leave your (added) relay powered up  with key in Park position. 

 

BMW calls the parking light the side light, so proper term is "side light".  It is pretty well a stand alone circuit as some countries require the side light & tail light remain on with vehicle parked along the side of a public road (therefor the "P" position on the key switch), this allows the side light & tail light to be the ONLY things to stay on so the battery doesn't go dead quickly when parked.  

Just for clarity the 'side light' IS the 'tail' light, yes? My tail light goes on with the key in the 'P' position and I don't know the location of any other light that could be referred as a 'side' light.

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1 hour ago, Achilles8857 said:

Just for clarity the 'side light' IS the 'tail' light, yes? My tail light goes on with the key in the 'P' position and I don't know the location of any other light that could be referred as a 'side' light.

Afternoon  Achilles8857

 

No, the side light is basically the small front parking light bulb inside the headlight assembly. (gives the headlight a low intensity glow when turned on)

 

The tail light is on the same side light circuit as it needs to be lit when the front side light is lit so there is also a rear light showing in the (P) parking position.  

 

On the 1100R bike you are better of using fuse #4 as the power tap for a relay. It's access is under the seat so adding additional wiring is hidden.  On the 1100R bike most of the front headlight & side light wire harness is exposed so tapping into that shows so if not done perfectly  so can look cobbled in.

Side light wire harness is under the front plastics on the RT bike so none of  the splicing shows on the RT (your R bike is different due to no front plastics)    

 

Plus fuse #4  goes off with the key in the (P)  position so that part works better.   Plus the fuse #4 circuit is kind on an isolated & stand alone circuit so no resistor required across the added relay coil,  or no diode required in the added relay trigger circuit,  to protect from reverse EMF during the relay coil collapse at shut down. 

 

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On 11/6/2020 at 8:52 AM, dirtrider said:

5JggypV.jpg

 

In product below from Eastern Beaver the blue lead to the relay EB says must be connected to a switched POS source on the bike  - a 'switching lead'.

So the yellow Power Out side lead of Fuse #4 going to terminal 85 - that's the equivalent of the blue lead?

The relay would catch it's ground from the mounting point onto the bike; and it's power to terminal 30 from the red ring terminal mounted on battery (+).

 

image.thumb.png.ec3198eb64307d4289953293c22a939d.png

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1 hour ago, Achilles8857 said:

 

In product below from Eastern Beaver the blue lead to the relay EB says must be connected to a switched POS source on the bike  - a 'switching lead'.

So the yellow Power Out side lead of Fuse #4 going to terminal 85 - that's the equivalent of the blue lead?

The relay would catch it's ground from the mounting point onto the bike; and it's power to terminal 30 from the red ring terminal mounted on battery (+).

 

image.thumb.png.ec3198eb64307d4289953293c22a939d.png

Afternoon  Achilles8857

 

Close,  yes blue lead to fuse #4 on power out side of fuse,  BUT in the kit shown the relay probably gets  its ground from the black ring that attaches to the battery (-) post.  (this would be a common ground for the relay coil as well as grounds for both of the accessory connectors)  

 

Most relays now are plastic cased so the case (therefore the pull-in coil low)  has no ground attachment at the relay.  

 

You can tap the out-side of fuse 4 using a simple fuse tap (the hook on the tap just goes around one of the fuse tangs then the fuse gets pushed back into it's seat). (Auto Zone usually has a number different fuse taps, just take your #4 fuse with you so you get the correct sized fuse tap or correct add-a-fuse)

 

fuse tap.JPG

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17 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon  Achilles8857

 

Close,  yes blue lead to fuse #4 on power out side of fuse,  BUT in the kit shown the relay probably gets  its ground from the black ring that attaches to the battery (-) post.  (this would be a common ground for the relay coil as well as grounds for both of the accessory connectors)  

 

Most relays now are plastic cased so the case (therefore the pull-in coil low)  has no ground attachment at the relay.  

 

You can tap the out-side of fuse 4 using a simple fuse tap (the hook on the tap just goes around one of the fuse tangs then the fuse gets pushed back into it's seat). (Auto Zone usually has a number different fuse taps, just take your #4 fuse with you so you get the correct sized fuse tap or correct add-a-fuse)

 

fuse tap.JPG

OK got it, I will check the relay ground situation when the product is received. Appreciate the advice on the ATO fuse tap.

Cheers!

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4 minutes ago, Achilles8857 said:

OK got it, I will check the relay ground situation when the product is received. Appreciate the advice on the ATO fuse tap.

Cheers!

Afternoon  Achilles8857

 

I usually make my own relay harness as I much prefer to use waterproof fuse holders with rubber fuse covers for a motorcycle environment. Under seat on a motorcycle is somewhat dry but still, riding fast in a hard rain you will get water under the seat (especially on an R bike).   

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With the fuse tap, in order to take advantage of the selected fuse, shouldn't the tap be placed under the power out (vs. power in or input) tang?

If so, in the fuse box which side of the fuses are the power out side?

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10 minutes ago, Achilles8857 said:

With the fuse tap, in order to take advantage of the selected fuse, shouldn't the tap be placed under the power out (vs. power in or input) tang?

If so, in the fuse box which side of the fuses are the power out side?

Morning Achilles8857

 

Yes, under the power-out side.

 

On what side of fuse  is power-out, just remove fuse, turn the key to on, then use your voltmeter or 12v test light & probe both sides on the empty fuse cavity. The side WITHOUT 12v is the power-out side.

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1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Achilles8857

 

Yes, under the power-out side.

 

On what side of fuse  is power-out, just remove fuse, turn the key to on, then use your voltmeter or 12v test light & probe both sides on the empty fuse cavity. The side WITHOUT 12v is the power-out side.

See now I'll bet you thought there were no dumb questions.

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