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New plugs, Techron, now...right cylinder not firing


Cmyers41

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1 minute ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

You don't have the side stand down do you? 

Let me clarify, it cranks, but it won't fire and run on the L/H cylinder bloke before.

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7 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

You don't have the side stand down do you? 

Nope, it's on the center stand. It cranks, but won't fire (on the one cylinder like before).

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Just now, Cmyers41 said:

Nope, it's on the center stand. It cranks, but won't fire (on the one cylinder like before).

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

OK, go back over what you did,  is the coil full plugged in, are the injectors fully plugged in.

 

Try holding the twist grip open about 1/8 throttle then try to starting.

 

 

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18 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

OK, go back over what you did,  is the coil full plugged in, are the injectors fully plugged in.

 

Try holding the twist grip open about 1/8 throttle then try to starting.

 

 

I'm dumb... Forgot to plug the primary in. Turned right over for me. Still running on the L/J cylinder only 

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1 minute ago, Cmyers41 said:

I'm dumb... Forgot to plug the primary in. Turned right over for me. Still running on the L/J cylinder only 

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

Well, we are sort of getting nowhere. 

 

Can you try to swap the spark plug wires side to side (leave them plugged the same at the coil). 

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

Is the R/H side front exhaust pipe getting hot at all???

Swapped the plug wires side to side, like mentioned above. No change.

 

R/H exhaust is getting hot.

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3 minutes ago, Cmyers41 said:

Swapped the plug wires side to side, like mentioned above. No change.

 

R/H exhaust is getting hot.

OK, disconnect the L/H side plug wire, then ground that plug wire (so it doesn't arc internally inside the coil), then see if it will fire off at all on the R/H side.

 

You will probably need to use the choke,  or hold the throttle open a bit to get it to stay running.

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3 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

OK, disconnect the L/H side plug wire, then ground that plug wire (so it doesn't arc internally inside the coil), then see if it will fire off at all on the R/H side. 

Did it with the plug wires still swapped...ran on the R/H cylinder only.

 

Did it after switching the plug wires back over to normal, would not turn over.

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3 minutes ago, Cmyers41 said:

Did it with the plug wires still swapped...ran on the R/H cylinder only.

 

Did it after switching the plug wires back over to normal, would not turn over.

That is pointing to a bad plug wire (but it was OK when you measured it way back in the beginning) 

 

Try measuring the total secondary resistance. Back to the 200K scale on your meter, then with plug wires back to original position on coil measure resistance from one spark plug wire  (spark plug end) to the other side spark plug wire (spark plug end). 

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8 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

That is pointing to a bad plug wire (but it was OK when you measured it way back in the beginning) 

 

Try measuring the total secondary resistance. Back to the 200K scale on your meter, then with plug wires back to original position on coil measure resistance from one spark plug wire  (spark plug end) to the other side spark plug wire (spark plug end). 

I think I did it right...

20201018_161839.jpg

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9 minutes ago, Cmyers41 said:

I think I did it right...

 

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

Yes, you want to see somewhere above 18K & below 25K so you are right there in the ballpark.

 

OK that makes it confusing-- all test good but you still seem to have a dead R/H cylinder  with the original plug wire configuration. 

 

Personally my Next move would be to run a compression test to validate the R/H cylinder, but you don't have that option. 

 

It is kind of pointing to the R/H side of  the coil having issues as you can't seem to get a cylinder to run from that side of the coil (with all you have done go back over what you have done to see if you ever got a cylinder to run from the R/H plug wire side of the coil).  

 

Probably put a new (good used) coil in the bike then see where you are at. 

 

  

 

 

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5 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Cmyers41

 

Yes, you want to see somewhere above 18K & below 25K so you are right there in the ballpark.

 

OK that makes it confusing-- all test good but you still seem to have a dead R/H cylinder  with the original plug wire configuration. 

 

Personally my Next move would be to run a compression test to validate the R/H cylinder, but you don't have that option. 

 

It is kind of pointing to the R/H side of  the coil having issues as you can't seem to get a cylinder to run from that side of the coil (with all you have done go back over what you have done to see if you ever got a cylinder to run from the R/H plug wire side of the coil).  

 

Probably put a new (good used) coil in the bike then see where you are at. 

 

  

 

 

I did get the R/H cylinder (dead one) running when I plugged the L/H coil to the R/H cylinder.

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12 minutes ago, Cmyers41 said:

I did get the R/H cylinder (dead one) running when I plugged the L/H coil to the R/H cylinder.

Evening Cmyers41

 

But did you EVER get either side to fire from the R/H side of coil???

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Just now, Cmyers41 said:

Negative, only L/H.

 

I think finding a working coil is my best option.

 

Any suggestions?

Evening Cmyers41

 

Usually E-Bay has a few at reasonable prices.

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Thanks for all the help!!!!

 

Once I get a new coil I'll post the results.

 

Coincidentally enough, it is the right side of the coil that is cracked open / damaged. So maybe that's why the right side isn't work? Something (moisture) got up I there and screwed with things?

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8 minutes ago, AZgman said:

Got it. How about the one on Amazon?

Evening  AZgman

 

He needs the   12131341978   black coil. 

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