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R1100RT Knee Pad Glue


350sierra

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Has anyone tried using a hot glue gun to stick on the fairing knee pads?  I have a set I just removed and pulled all the double sided tape off. One pad is warped slightly, so I'm looking for something that will stick relatively quickly and it has to be strong.

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The previous owner of my 1997 R1100RT likely did.  It wasn't completely successful as the edge was turned up and a visible bead of what looks like hot glue about 2-3 inches from the edge.  I have yet to address this because I don't want to damage the pad and I'm unsure if  applying head will fix or ruin it.

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Good to know, i will skip the hot glue.  I've read on here that 3m double sided tape works, but my luck hasn't been the best with it being permanent.

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32 minutes ago, 350sierra said:

Good to know, i will skip the hot glue.  I've read on here that 3m double sided tape works, but my luck hasn't been the best with it being permanent.

Use 99% rubbung alcohol or denatured alcohol to clean and use  the thin 3M double sided tape. Good stuff.

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10 hours ago, 350sierra said:

Has anyone tried using a hot glue gun to stick on the fairing knee pads?  I have a set I just removed and pulled all the double sided tape off. One pad is warped slightly, so I'm looking for something that will stick relatively quickly and it has to be strong.

Morning 350sierra

 

The thin 3M double sided tape works about as good as anything for a quick fix BUT the part must fit pretty good for it to remain stuck down all the way around. 

 

The problem with the thin 3M double sided tape is IF the part basically doesn't want to stay flat on it's own then it will eventually curl up on the side that doesn't fit flat if/when the bike is left out in  the hot sun.  

 

If you can get your pad to fit better (possibly a dunk in boiling water then reshaping by hand, or some other applied heat then re-shaping to fit correctly) then the  thin 3M double sided tape will probably work good. 

 

3M clear trim adhesive will probably hold a warped pad on better long-term but that stuff takes quite a while to dry so you would need a way to hold the warped section down tight until the trim adhesive dries.   3M clear trim adhesive is also a bit difficult to work with as it has a tendency to ooze out along the edges making it difficult to get a clean looking outer edge. (it does hold good once dry though)

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Assuming no good way the clamp it in the correct position, and it can patiently held in the correct place for the 5-10 minutes needed, a fast cure 2 part epoxy should work and overcome any warping of the knee pad.  A non foaming urethane (e.g. Clear Gorilla Glue) would have better adhesion to a low surface energy plastic, but cure time would require clamping it.  You will have to be sure you can get it in right position the first time though as either of these adhesives is a one shot deal.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have the same problem in Knee Pads that are not adhering well. I'm just wondering if the contact adhesive that you apply to both surfaces and let dry then bring the parts together to adhere might work. That stuff will certainly not allow any repositioning once the surfaces touch, so alignment is really critical. I've used that contact adhesive in other applications and wonder  if it might work for this one.

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52 minutes ago, justDale said:

I have the same problem in Knee Pads that are not adhering well. I'm just wondering if the contact adhesive that you apply to both surfaces and let dry then bring the parts together to adhere might work. That stuff will certainly not allow any repositioning once the surfaces touch, so alignment is really critical. I've used that contact adhesive in other applications and wonder  if it might work for this one.

Afternoon justDale

 

I don't see why it won't work as long as the  contact adhesive  can take reasonable heat for extended periods & you are darn sure that you can get everything correctly lined up as you assemble the knee pad to the panel.

 

You are also going to need to figure out a way to keep the contact adhesive from spreading outside knee pad OD as over-run will be difficult to clean up. 

 

Probably wouldn't be my personal  first choice but could work OK.  

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Years back I bought the rubber guards for my side cases . They were held on with a double back adhesive tape of some type.

Anyway , after about 5 years they came loose . I squirted some Gorilla glue  , the non expandable type , down in them and put a little weight  on it for about a half hour.

To this day they are glued on better than when they were first installed with the adhesive they came with   

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I had the same issue on my oilhead.  I did similar to Taylor 1 except I used a 3m marine glue so it would resist water.  They never came loose again in the time I owned it.   There is 3m marine glue for metal, wood, plastics, etc and there is another one that is for rubber.  I would suggest if you go 3m route look for the marine rubber one.  I used it to hold seals around hatches on the boat.  Worked great.

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Be careful of contact adhesive, it is a blend of a rubber backbone, resin tackifier and a compatible solvent.  The solvent is the worry as depending on which one used it could melt the body panel itself.  Test it first!

 

It may be no longer available, but my old employer had a product that was amazing for its green strength and long term holding power.  Carpet layers used it to adhere carpet tacking strips to concrete floors and they could stretch the carpet over the strip in 5-10 minutes after application.   If memory serve it was called Bostik 1222, but was slated to be retired in a product line streamlining initiative.  There is some floating around out there as orders went 5x when it was announced to be retired.

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Hi - 

 

I find that silicone RTV works quite well.  I've used it successfully to replace the reflectors on forks, other trim pieces, etc.  

Only issue is that it must be held in place while curing - I typically use masking tape here.

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