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1996 1100rt gearbox issue


bob duke

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i have a hard time with the 2nd-3rd upshift.It shifts always with a clunk.The way to perform a guiet shift is at 2,700rpm and only as accelerating.

 

All other gear changes are smooth and quiet.Its my 4ht beemer and i am aware about preloading gear lever etc.

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Bike never skips gear, but can the 2-3 clunky change create gearbox problems?For now i avoid upshift at higher revs, trying my best for smooth changes

 

 

 

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27 minutes ago, bob duke said:

i have a hard time with the 2-3 upshift.It shifts always with a clunk.The way to perform a guiet shift is at 2,700rpm and only as accelerating.

 

All other gear changes are smooth and quiet.Its my 4ht beemer and i am aware about preloading gear lever etc.

.

Bike never skips gear, but can the 2-3 clunky change create gearbox problems?For now i avoid upshift at higher revs, trying my best for smooth changes

 

 

 

Afternoon Bob

 

Those early 1100 gearboxes can be a challenge to shift smoothly due to BMW installing "O" rings on the free spinning gears in an attempt to quiet the neutral gear rattle. On later 1100 transmissions BMW dropped those friction "O" rings due to shifting complaints. 

 

You can try different gear oil brands & types as sometimes that will help smooth out the shifting. 

 

It might also help if you clean then grease the shift linkage balls/sockets as that makes rotating the shifting  drum smoother & easier.

 

There were also some BMW service bulletins on the early transmissions about  machining imperfections in the selector shaft assembly results in the selector drum inside the gearbox not rotating properly. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, Jim Moore said:

If it makes you feel any better my Y2K R1100RS is the same way. I've never been able to get a smooth 2-3, or 3-2 for that matter. 

well, maybe my bike has the m97 unit like yours, i bought it used anyway

 

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3 hours ago, bob duke said:

well, maybe my bike has the m97 unit like yours, i bought it used anyway

 

Mebbe so. It's a little annoying, but I've learned to live with it.

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In general the 1100's 5 speed transmission requires a Zen approach to get smooth shifts.  Ummmm-see the gears-know the gears-be the gears-mesh with harmony-ummmm.

  • Haha 1
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17 hours ago, Paul De said:

In general the 1100's 5 speed transmission requires a Zen approach to get smooth shifts.  Ummmm-see the gears-know the gears-be the gears-mesh with harmony-ummmm.

exactly..i had many bikes ..its the worst gearbox by far, you focus on the shifts instead of riding

 

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Excluding my dirt bikes, back in the mid and late '70s, I rode a 1971 R75/5 with a 4 speed clunk box.  In the 80's I road Yamaha and Kawasaki which showed me what a sweet shifting motorcycle transmission was all about. Then after a decade break I bought my '99 R1100RT in 2000.  And was shocked that in almost 30 years BMW made zero progress on slick shifting transmissions as it was still a clunk box with one extra gear.  That said, I still have that old boy and love it even with all of its idiosyncrasies.  And that ol boy, now 20 years old, still gets the "nice bike" comments a bunch more than I get when I ride my Waterhead RT.

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On 9/17/2020 at 4:02 PM, duckbubbles said:

If they're anything like early K-bike 5 speeds, they have a "free" (at no extra charge) neutral between each gear.

 

Frank

Had two k100rt 84 and 86.Shifting was sweet and guiet..False netrauls only if you wear a small shoe number. Oihead 1100 gearbox is a misery in contrast to old k.Superb motor and trans, but bad handling and HEAT!

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11 minutes ago, bob duke said:

False netrauls only if you wear a small shoe number

Haha, part of my Zen to shifting the R1100 is to wear steel toe work boot.  The shift lever and linkage makes for a ginormous shift throw. I won't say it makes it all good as you still have to keep the revs up and feather the clutch to get smooth up shifts.

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6 minutes ago, Paul De said:

Haha, part of my Zen to shifting the R1100 is to wear steel toe work boot.  The shift lever and linkage makes for a ginormous shift throw. I won't say it makes it all good as you still have to keep the revs up and feather the clutch to get smooth up shifts.

I slid a 3/4" long-reach socket over the shifter peg. Makes it a lot easier to use the shifter.

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6 minutes ago, Jim Moore said:

I slid a 3/4" long-reach socket over the shifter peg. Makes it a lot easier to use the shifter.

Haha was it a thin wall Snap-on, or a Craftsman standard thick wall socket? And how did you secure that?  

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1 hour ago, bob duke said:

Had two k100rt 84 and 86.Shifting was sweet and guiet..False netrauls only if you wear a small shoe number. Oihead 1100 gearbox is a misery in contrast to old k.Superb motor and trans, but bad handling and HEAT!

Morning Bob

 

You can probably improve that shifting somewhat by being persistent at trying different shifting techniques. On my early 1100 BMW bikes I seldom used the clutch (or full clutch disengagement anyhow) from 2nd up.

 

You can try different things, like___

 

Shifting at a higher RPM than you are using now (that usually improves shifting)

 

Only pulling the clutch lever partially in for the shift (just enough to get it to shift correctly)  

 

Not even using the clutch on the problematic gear change.

 

Adjusting the clutch lever for max out (max disengagement at lever pull-in).

 

Try changing your clutch timing to be earlier or later in the shift (ie, start the up shift just slightly prior to pulling in the clutch lever). This alone can improve the crunch on the shift.

 

Sounds like you tried the pre-load the shift lever already. So try varying that to more or less in conjunction with the clutch release timing. 

 

I don't ride my old 1100  bikes much anymore but when I do I have to re-adjust my clutch/shift timing to that antique motorcycle to get a smooth shift as I just don't use the  clutch to shift up 3rd-6th on my 1200 bikes unless under high power acceleration but do use it for downshifting 3,2,1.

On my BMW 800 bikes I usually use the clutch for 1 & 2 going up then no clutch for 3,4,5,6 -- coming down no clutch for 6,5,4 then use the clutch for 3,2,1.  Under full power upshifts I just fan the clutch (just enough to take full torque off of the shift but not a full to the handlebar release) 

 

Play with it, try different things, try a different gear oil in the trans, etc. 

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36 minutes ago, Paul De said:

Haha was it a thin wall Snap-on, or a Craftsman standard thick wall socket? And how did you secure that?  

Standard Craftsman long reach. And it just slid on. Actually took a couple of taps with a hammer to get it in place. And it's stuck on pretty good. I could probably pull  it off, but it wouldn't be easy. It's actually one of the best mods I've ever made to a bike. 

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When I bought my 96 R1100RT back in 2013, I thought the transmission had a problem since it often grinded 1-2, 2-3rd. The big clunk putting it into 1st I thought was odd. My 86 airhead R80 seemed smooth compared to this oilhead. Seemed kinda backward.

 

Well 30k miles later, there is no transmission problem and I rarely ever grind between gears. It's still clunky but I guess that's just how they are.  Occasionally get the "free" neutral (happened between 4th and 5th the other day, that kinda sucked) Squeezing some preload on the peg before a shift helps a lot. I just had to learn how to ride it. I remember the PO telling me when I bought it, "shift it like you mean it. With Authority!" No wimpy shifts.  Guess that's the trick. Dave

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