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Intermittent Brake Failure Light


Asif

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Intermittent Brake Failure light, leaving with residual brake power!!!

hi, i have very similar problem that came after changing the battery from oddysee battery to Exide Gel, which i thought ll help better to hold the voltage. but very first ride after that the break failure light came up and since then took it my local machanic who checked with computer and no really fault came up, first fault came up rear light bulb which was replaced and then the fault was clear which was intermittenttly coming anyway. the mechanic changed the brake fluid check the abs running somehow on computer and there was not fault. i got the bike bake and had a 150miles ride perfectly fine bike was standing after that for 2 week. i tried to start the bike and as soon i turn the ignition key the fault came up although low battry sign was on, the bike still managed to start the fault didn't clear i had a careful spin around the block but fault din't clear. i parked the bike next day tried and the fault was clear again.

since then its on and off problem.

R1150R 2003

any idea? ?

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11 minutes ago, Asif said:

Intermittent Brake Failure light, leaving with residual brake power!!!

hi, i have very similar problem that came after changing the battery from oddysee battery to Exide Gel, which i thought ll help better to hold the voltage. but very first ride after that the break failure light came up and since then took it my local machanic who checked with computer and no really fault came up, first fault came up rear light bulb which was replaced and then the fault was clear which was intermittenttly coming anyway. the mechanic changed the brake fluid check the abs running somehow on computer and there was not fault. i got the bike bake and had a 150miles ride perfectly fine bike was standing after that for 2 week. i tried to start the bike and as soon i turn the ignition key the fault came up although low battry sign was on, the bike still managed to start the fault didn't clear i had a careful spin around the block but fault din't clear. i parked the bike next day tried and the fault was clear again.

since then its on and off problem.

R1150R 2003

any idea? ?

Morning   Asif

 

Thank you for starting your own  thread. 

 

Is JUST your brake failure light on, or flashing, or both the brake failure light and the general warning light on and/or  flashing?

 

 If both lights on do they flash together or opposed? 

 

How fast do the lights flash, fast or slower. 

 

 

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warning light is solid and brake failure light flases fast 4HZ rate.

this morning i tried to switch on, everything cleared first read complete succesfully then i strated the bike and failure came up before even moving the bike.

i switched off, put my helmet on turned the ignition all fine started all fine> moved the bike all cleared, after 100 meter on the turn pressed the rear brake and fault came up again.

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2 minutes ago, Asif said:

warning light is solid and brake failure light flases fast 4HZ rate.

this morning i tried to switch on, everything cleared first read complete succesfully then i strated the bike and failure came up before even moving the bike.

i switched off, put my helmet on turned the ignition all fine started all fine> moved the bike all cleared, after 100 meter on the turn pressed the rear brake and fault came up again.

Morning  Asif

 

General warning light ON and  ABS light flashes at 4Hz =At least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode.

 

That can be caused by a number of things but the most common is a brake light switch not working correctly (either external switch at the lever or pedal or an internal pressure sensor).

 

When the problem is present is your rear brake light  (stop light) staying on?  This is one indicator of an external brake switch sticking or not adjusted correctly.  

 

The external brake switches on your I-ABS system operate reverse logic with the switches normally being closed then going open when you activate the pedal or hand lever.

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hi mate,

the tail light goes off but the servo kept engaged some times when i press the pedal brake. i have to switch off the bike to clear it.

but i ll check the rear tail light again.

 

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hi,

i checked the back tail light goes off/dimm when releasing the both brakes (Front or Rear).

but when ever pressing the rear brake the ABS servo gets engage and not disconnecting.

the servo sounds continues..any idea.

 

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2 hours ago, Asif said:

hi,

i checked the back tail light goes off/dimm when releasing the both brakes (Front or Rear).

but when ever pressing the rear brake the ABS servo gets engage and not disconnecting.

the servo sounds continues..any idea.

 

Morning  Asif

 

Typically your problem would point to a malfunctioning rear brake switch or internal rear pressure sensor but that flashing dash light looks odd.

 

Seeing as your problem showed up right after a battery change, AND I see that it looks like you have a battery charger on it, you might start your diagnostics  with a battery condition check & a battery disconnect.

 

Did you install a NEW battery?  or a previously used battery??????????????

 

Do you have a voltmeter handy? If so allow that motorcycle to sit overnight (without a battery charger on it), THEN put a DC voltmeter across the battery posts (is the battery voltage above 12.5 volts?) Does it stay above 12.2 volts with just the key turned on? 

 

Then, with voltmeter still attached to the battery,  turn the key on, then crank (start) the engine (does the battery voltage stay above 10 volts during engine cranking?) 

 

Or better yet, if you have a shop nearby that can do a battery load test on your battery then have your battery properly load tested (does it pass the load test?)  

 

If the battery doesn't pass the above test then put a good condition battery in it then see if your brake problem goes away. 

 

If it DOES pass the above battery test then try a battery disconnect for about 1 hour, then re-connect the battery & see if your brake problem is still there. 

 

Without a proper flashing dash light & without knowing the battery's condition/age, knowing the battery  voltage at  both key-on & during engine cranking, it is difficult to tell you what to look for. 

 

Basically, your  PRESENT problem points to a possible rear brake switch or internal brake pressure sensor BUT, given the fact that your problem appeared right after a battery change  it could have been caused by a low battery voltage  condition,  OR caused from a voltage spike into the brake module during the battery swap. 

 

So, eliminate ANY possibility of low battery condition, then do the battery disconnect for 1 hour (make sure the key is turned OFF during the battery re-connect). 

 

If the problem is still there with a KNOWN GOOD battery, & after the battery 1 hour disconnect then we  will have to look into the brake problem farther.  

 

 

 

 

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thanks for replying Dirtrider,

i did that all. i left the bike overnight without battery connection. connected an other fully charged battery 1st starting procedure was complete succesfully but after 30sec. the failure occured it self without touching anything.

so i am quite certain that the battery is not the culprit in this case.

something is with rear brake either some sensor or switch or the ABS module itself.

can you pls direct me where and how to find the brake switche and internal pressure sensor and how i can check there efficiency?

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if you can see i had the warning light on for last 2 years and my machanic said it indicate the rear light failure which was working fine. so now its gone to diffrent direction.

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2 hours ago, Asif said:

thanks for replying Dirtrider,

i did that all. i left the bike overnight without battery connection. connected an other fully charged battery 1st starting procedure was complete succesfully but after 30sec. the failure occured it self without touching anything.

so i am quite certain that the battery is not the culprit in this case.

something is with rear brake either some sensor or switch or the ABS module itself.

can you pls direct me where and how to find the brake switche and internal pressure sensor and how i can check there efficiency?

Morning  Asif

 

Not much you can do at home if it's an internal pressure sensor. 

 

On the rear brake pedal switch, wait until it is real quiet in the area where your motorcycle is, then put your ear near the brake pedal, then lightly move the brake pedal from rest to brake-applied then back up again (you should be able to hear the switch clicking if it is working ok).

 

Do you have a volt/ohmmeter? If you do then you can electrically test that switch -- it should be N/C at rest then go N/O as you move the brake pedal. 

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I checked again the battery again fully charged and even with other battery which was fully charged, same problem.

the both switches from and rear brake seems fine clicks sounds fine and the brake tail light goes off as well.

either some sort of sensor or IABS itself has fault.

what is your recommendation. bypassing the IABS is the easy solution, i wanted to take advantage of ABS braking if possible but if nothing left than i have no other option left because IABS module is a expensive toy.

 

what your recommendation?

 

reagdrs,

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3 hours ago, Asif said:

I checked again the battery again fully charged and even with other battery which was fully charged, same problem.

the both switches from and rear brake seems fine clicks sounds fine and the brake tail light goes off as well.

either some sort of sensor or IABS itself has fault.

what is your recommendation. bypassing the IABS is the easy solution, i wanted to take advantage of ABS braking if possible but if nothing left than i have no other option left because IABS module is a expensive toy.

 

what your recommendation?

 

reagdrs,

Morning  Asif

 

It is sort of pointing to an internal pressure sensor. But without an actual failure code to confirm then that is just a guess from afar. 

 

What country are you in?  Is it legal  to by-pass a vehicle's anti-lock brake system in your country? 

 

If it is legal to by-pass your ABS system (with no annual vehicle inspections) then THAT is a decent option, you do end up with a darn good standard braking system that functions well.

 

Not difficult but not straight forward either as your brake & tail lights are controlled by the ABS braking module. 

 

To get around the brake light issue you will either need to fabricate then wire in a control relay, or replace the  front & rear brake switches to the non-ABS type switches then do some wiring modifications to make them operate your brake light correctly.

 

 

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Thanks for replying again, i am in UK and i checked that it is legal and its not an issue to pass the annual MOT test.

Although i am checking about insurance because it may consider a modification and that can cost higher rate insurance premium.

i am thinking to take the bike to BMW dealer workshop to check and to find actual failure code. if thats the IABS module then i ll go for bypass the IABS.

i have checked really nice and detailed video which are availabe on youtube. seems not very complicated for me to achieve.

 

thanks for your help.

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9 minutes ago, Asif said:

Thanks for replying again, i am in UK and i checked that it is legal and its not an issue to pass the annual MOT test.

Although i am checking about insurance because it may consider a modification and that can cost higher rate insurance premium.

i am thinking to take the bike to BMW dealer workshop to check and to find actual failure code. if thats the IABS module then i ll go for bypass the IABS.

i have checked really nice and detailed video which are availabe on youtube. seems not very complicated for me to achieve.

 

thanks for your help.

Morning  Asif

 

I sent you a private message on this site with contact info for AndyS, he lives in the UK & has removed the ABS system from his 1150RT. I think he even did write up on the process. 

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