2000 r1100rt no crank 60k miles

[Mikeisontv]

Hey guys. So I’ve built a few k bikes and got a screaming deal on a 2000 r1100rt.

 

It’s a non runner and I’d love some help sorting her out.

 

60k bike

 

I changed the fuel pump, filter, and in tank hoses. I redid all the wires inside the tank too, as all the shielding was gone!

 

I replaced the old battery with a new Odyssey battery, turned the key, everything lit up, but no crank.

 

The fuses all are intact and light tested.

 
it’s in neutral, I lifted the kick stand...still nothing but all the lights.

 

i light tested the ground. Good

 

Being that the fuel pump didn’t prime, is it the fuel pump relay? 
 

ive read that the HES on these we’re not well built and often need to be rewired. But shouldn’t it atleast crank with a bad HES?

 

I tested the starter by tapping a direct wire from the battery positive to the tab where the ignition wire goes... and it works and made solid cranking.

 

So that leaves the push button/kill switch, and moronic fuse. Are there good waya to test these?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

[Jim Moore]

You may have a few different problems. Let's figure out the fuel pump issue first. The fuel pump should prime at key on with the sidestand up. The RID should also light up. If the RID doesn't light up it's a problem with the Kill switch or the sidestand switch. If it does, it's a problem with the fuel pump.

 

If the RID isn't lighting up the engine won't crank. If it is and the bike won't crank you have another problem. Let us know.

[dirtrider]

5 hours ago, Mikeisontv said:

Hey guys. So I’ve built a few k bikes and got a screaming deal on a 2000 r1100rt.

 

It’s a non runner and I’d love some help sorting her out.

 

60k bike

 

I changed the fuel pump, filter, and in tank hoses. I redid all the wires inside the tank too, as all the shielding was gone!

 

I replaced the old battery with a new Odyssey battery, turned the key, everything lit up, but no crank.

 

The fuses all are intact and light tested.

 
it’s in neutral, I lifted the kick stand...still nothing but all the lights.

 

i light tested the ground. Good

 

Being that the fuel pump didn’t prime, is it the fuel pump relay? 
 

ive read that the HES on these we’re not well built and often need to be rewired. But shouldn’t it atleast crank with a bad HES?

 

I tested the starter by tapping a direct wire from the battery positive to the tab where the ignition wire goes... and it works and made solid cranking.

 

So that leaves the push button/kill switch, and moronic fuse. Are there good waya to test these?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Morning  Mikeisontv

 

Start by doing as Jim suggests & see if the RID comes on,  then also see if the generator light comes on with key ON. If no GEN light then use a test light or voltmeter & verify 12v at fuse #1 with key ON.

 

Is the neutral light ON ??????? 

 

Have you tried starting with the clutch lever held IN???? 

 

With key ON move side stand up & down then back up, does the RID change????

 

Look at headlight, it should be on with key ON, does it go OFF when you push the starter button????  (if headlight isn't ON at key ON then let us know that)

 

If still nothing found then remove the starter relay from fuse box-- try to identify the relay terminal numbers (should be 30, 85, 86, 86a, 87). If you can't find relay terminal numbers then  30 is socket #6,, 85 is socket #4,, 86 is terminal #8,, 86a is terminal #5,, 87 is terminal #2. 

 

Verify that 30 (in the fuse box relay socket) will light a test 12v light.

 

(with relay removed)-- When you jump socket terminal  30 to terminal 87 it should crank. (does it)

 

Next, put a test light (or voltmeter) between relay socket terminal 30 & terminal 86  (light should go on when you pull the clutch lever in (does it?????)

 

Next, put a test light (or voltmeter) between relay socket terminal 30 & terminal 86a  (light should go on when you put the trans in neutral (does it?????)

 

If neither of the two just above work correctly then verify that you didn't leave a ground wire connection off.  

 

Next, put a 12v test light (or voltmeter) from socket terminal 85 to (good clean) ground,  then (with key ON) push the starter button, does the light come on when you push the starter button? If not then verify side stand switch is working (or by-pass it). 

 

Once you figure out why it won't crank on the starter button then the fuel pump will probably start working but keep in mind that the fuel pump will ONLY come for a very brief 2 seconds at key ON then shut off for that key cycle. THEN won't come back on until another key-on cycle (just 2 seconds again), or it should come on continually during "engine cranking" or with "engine running". 

 

 

 

 

[Mikeisontv]

I did notice these wires were sliced and twisted together. I undid them and reattached them properly. (Pictured)

 

AND YESSSS! We got a runner guys! It was the side stand switch. I did try to start it in the up position before, but this time was instant start. 
 

The test ride is calling my name, but I need to bleed the brakes first.

 

I’m so excited and thankful to have you guys in my corner as knowing these elimination steps surely helps narrow down issues. 
 

I tried to upload a running video cause those are always great to hear, but it was too large of a file. 

[Mikeisontv]

I realized my mitt was covering a lot. What does this go to? Left side of the bike beside the seat. 

[dirtrider]

9 minutes ago, Mikeisontv said:

I realized my mitt was covering a lot. What does this go to? Left side of the bike beside the seat. 

 

Afternoon Mikeisontv

 

What does what go to? What exactly are you referencing? 

[Mikeisontv]

The wires in the photos! I reconnected them and then it started. Not sure what that is going to, or just some accessory and not in the electrical startup series at all.

[James in OK]

Does your bike still have the original rubber brake lines?  If so, I would not do much more than a test ride before replacing with stainless lines from Spiegler or other reputable brand.  The rubber lines are a ticking time bomb.  When they are severely deteriorated, pieces will be everywhere in the system, causing problems.  Also, if the HES has not been rewired, get that done before taking a road trip.  GSAddict here can rewire it with the proper wire, and turn it around quickly.

[dirtrider]

49 minutes ago, Mikeisontv said:

The wires in the photos! I reconnected them and then it started. Not sure what that is going to, or just some accessory and not in the electrical startup series at all.

Afternoon Mikeisontv

 

That looks like the side stand switch pig tail wires. If they were cut & twisted together then at one time the side stand switch was probably acting up. Or, possibly they were cut & twisted together so the engine would run with the side stand down. 

 

The stock 1100 is a pain as the engine won't start or run with the side stand down.  

[Mikeisontv]

The brake lines do seem to be original. The fronts are very tight unless I loosen the bolt under the master cylinder, which was empty when I started.

 

Best place to purchase Spiegler lines? I’ll look at eBay and beemerboneyard.com.
 

I’ve been talking to arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca a guy named 

Reto about the HES rewire. If it’s just an unsolder/Resolder higher grade wires, I might do it. Is that the same guy as GSAddict?

 

 

[Jim Moore]

Yep, that's him.

[dirtrider]

41 minutes ago, Mikeisontv said:

If it’s just an unsolder/Resolder higher grade wires, I might do it. Is that the same guy as GSAddict?

 

Afternoon Mikeisontv

 

It is just a re-wire using high temp insulation special wires but it isn't nearly as simple as what you did to your fuel pump assembly. New terminals are difficult to next to impossible to find,  the re-wiring is a pain as there are two sensors that sort of have parallel ground & power inputs so bundling the wires to route correctly into a sealed smooth small package at  the sensor end is a big pain.  

 

It is doable at home as I have done a number of them but  it is a pain to  find the  proper high temp wiring & do a professional job. 

 

It takes some skill to  re-wire to a standard that won't fail in the future so you really get what you pay for from GSAddict as his work is top tier.   

 

 

[Mikeisontv]

Ok. I really enjoy the pride feeling of DIY repair, but if it’s a little more Intricate, I probably just sub it out to GSAddict.

 

S-BM0017 seems to be the Speigler r1100 complete front and rear set of braided brake lines. I’m going to check with a local race shop too as they’ve made custom wires for me in the past on classic cars.

[James in OK]

17 hours ago, Mikeisontv said:

Ok. I really enjoy the pride feeling of DIY repair, but if it’s a little more Intricate, I probably just sub it out to GSAddict.

 

Good call.  I did mine and it is really difficult (as outlined above). Far more than just splicing a few wires.