Installing Wunderlich rear bars

[Re-beemer]

Guys

i bought a set of Wunderlich engin and rear protection bars. I installed the engine bars without a problem. However to install the rear bars you have to remove the seats, luggage rack and rear side panels. Unfortunately Wunderlich does mot

hive you any details on how to do this. 
Has anyone else installed these in a ‘13 R1200RT?  I’d so can you tell

me the secret of removing these parts?

[lkraus]

PM sent.

[Re-beemer]

Thanks Larty, but the Wunderlichinstruction assume you have already removed  the luggage rack and panels. 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

A bit rusty, but I remember some important things about the rack.  The seats come off, rear first, with the key inserted into the "Where in the hell is my damn key?!!!!" hole above the license plate.  Never fails to find your missing key there if you didn't get the hint.  Note the nesting nuance about how the two seats fit together before removing them.  It'll help putting with them back on.  Some painters blue tape might help to mark things your first few times.

For the rear panels and rack, just look carefully for screws and don't force anything off until you are sure it is detached and you should be fine.  Here is what I remember:

Rear Side panels come off with torx screws.  I seem to recall this is only possible if the mid/front side panels are off to expose a screw on the rear.  Maybe not.

The luggage rack has torx screws on the underside and inside the rear cowl.  I think you need to remove the rear lamp first via the rear cowl, phillips head comes to mind, before getting to the underside screws.  There are some rack screws that have anti-seize on them.  Anytime you see that, alarm bells should be going off in your head.  Usually a stainless on stainless thread assembly with or without a deformed thread locking element.  Those love to gall and ruin your day by never separating again.  I imagine this is due to the rack nuts not being in a clip-on-nut-plate and, instead, being molded into the rack.  Put those back where they came from carefully when done.  

[Re-beemer]

Danny

thanks for the info. I’ve use that spo for my key holder many times. As to the installation, the torx screws at the far rear of the luggae rack mounting are a pain. Screw actually froze to the molded nut with just three turns left. It won’t  go in or out.  Nut jusr spins. Rest of the screws were as you mentioned including the part about having to remove the other piece of Tupperware. In any event, after the fight with the molded nut, I decided to stop, put everything back together, return the .”not-wonderful” Wunderlich bars and ordered new ones from Ilium. 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Hmmmm, lacking anti-seize maybe after someone else's work.  Bummer.  Ilium makes good products.  I have their pivoting footpegs that are also ok slow low-side crash bars.

You might get fretting on the plastic without a snug fastener on the rack.

If you want to tackle that galled fastener, you could try to figure how to get it out of the rack first....probably by yanking the rack up.  Then tackle it with vise grips to see if it'll break free.  Heating only the nut up after freezing it with cold spray or air might help.  My experience with galling is once there, it needs to be cut off though.  A dremel should solve that problem with fiberglass discs and plenty of protection on the paint.  

Once out, you'll have to bond something in there.  Maybe a heavily abraded Rivnut, Keensert or similar should work with good surface prep and no wicking of adhesive into the threads.  JB Weld might be a bit stiff for that application, but it'll stick. 

[Re-beemer]

Thanks Danny.    I think that jerking the rack up will cause the plastic to crack.
I am remove the lower part of the screw by cutting it between the rack and the frame. Then with the rack removed I can figure how to remove the spinning molded nut. Once that is done I can fit a new nut and bolt. Carefully super glueing the nut to the fat side of the opening in the rack.