Is clunky shifting sound normal?

[Re-beemer]

Just bought ‘13 Camhead.. Previously owned ‘93 K75,  which I sold in ‘03, so it has been awhile since I have driven a Beemer.  Gear changes on ‘13  ,particularly going from 1 to 2 amd 2 to 3, soundsp “clunky”.   Upper changes are “quiet”. Don’t remember that on my ‘93.  Normal?

[Rinkydink]

LSSL

 

 

 

Loud shifts saves lives!

[Pappy35]

I bought mine used a couple of years ago and it was my first ever BMW. It's like shifting a farm tractor. 14,000 miles later, it's the same. Thus I conclude this is completely normal and I like it.

[MontanaMark]

ReBeemer,

 

I upgraded from a 1999 RT to a 2013 RT last August.  Shifting on the 2013 is deluxe compared to the 1999.  Still, there is the classic Oilhead 'clunk', just not as pronounced.  Overall, I really like the 2013;  smooth, powerful, light and best of all - cruise control!

 

Seriously, if you want to see what a real tractor transmission feels like, ride a R1100RT!

 

Cheers,

Mark

 

 

[Rinkydink]

8 hours ago, MontanaMark said:

ReBeemer,

 

I upgraded from a 1999 RT to a 2013 RT last August.  Shifting on the 2013 is deluxe compared to the 1999.  Still, there is the classic Oilhead 'clunk', just not as pronounced.  Overall, I really like the 2013;  smooth, powerful, light and best of all - cruise control!

 

Seriously, if you want to see what a real tractor transmission feels like, ride a R1100RT!

 

Cheers,

Mark

 

 

If you want a real tractor transmission ride a R90/6  

[MontanaMark]

Forgot to mention, I have a 92 K75s as well,  I shifts like butter.  Never could figure out how BMW managed to make such a nice transmission for the K bikes, yet still have a such a clunker for the R bikes!  In this world, some questions were never meant to be answered...

 

Cheers,

Mark

[Re-beemer]

Thanks guys!

[Hosstage]

If you want real tractor like clunk-shifting, try a 2007 up Harley 6 speed, it actually sounds like you are shifting without using the clutch. Trust me, after riding one of those, you will think yours is the smoothest shifting bike you've ever ridden.

Much like the HD engines have nicknames, the 6 speed Cruise Drive is affectionately called "The Clunk Drive", for good reason.

[lkraus]

When I first got my RT , the clunking convinced me that I had essentially bought a truck with three on the tree.  Leaving work, everybody would turn and look to see what made that horrible sound when I shifted from neutral to first. I had a habit of coasting to stop signs while shifting down to first - clunk, clunk, clunk. Passengers wondered how soon they would have to get off and push.

 

The clunk comes from gears meshing while rotating at different speeds,  slamming into each other. The clunk is worse in lower gears because the difference in ratios is greater.They start out at compatible speeds, but they get out of synch as soon as you pull in the clutch. So if you pull the clutch, then shift, then release the clutch, you will get a pretty good clunk, because there  is an instant that the gears are not engaged .  If you apply light pressure on the shift lever until you feel resistance while at the same time pulling in the clutch, the gears will shift as soon as the clutch relieves sufficient pressure on the driven gears, the gears will have no time to slow down, and there will little/no clunk.  This takes some practice, as you can damage the shift forks with too much pressure or by applying prolonged pressure without shifting. The key is operating the shift lever and clutch together, not as separate motions. Keeping the gears engaged as much of the time as possible will greatly reduce the clunking, and N->First can be quiet enough that you will need the dash indicator to be sure it is in gear.

 

But yeah, it's gonna clunk at times.

 

 

 

[Glockdawg]

Clunking is normal across the line up.  However, I've found the right oil does minimize the feel, but not the noise.

[jack d]

I had a 2100 GS and a 2012 RT. I found that putting Red Line or Royal Purple gear lube in the trans made a positive difference in making quiet shifts. I now have a 2016 GS and I dislike the trans and the BMW wet clutch because of the shifting. I am looking at a 2013 RT tomorrow because I like the engine and trans better than the water cooled version .

[9Mary7]

22 hours ago, jack d said:

2013 RT tomorrow because I like the engine and trans better

Can't go wrong with a Camhead

[Scott9999]

Hmm, I buzzed through a year of comments on this thread, and can't believe that someone didn't mention preloading during shifting.  My 2003 RT-P shifted easily as long as I put a bit of pressure on the shift lever just before I pulled in the clutch.  (Of course, it shifted even better after the tranny was rebuilt at the rubber chicken garage (http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com), but my shifting technique had a lot less to do with that than the rookie police officers who used it as a training bike, something I found out WAY after I bought it 🙄).   I could still mess it up and get a pretty good "clunk", particular with 1st and 2nd gears, but preloading became second nature after a while.

 

Anyhow, this is an old thread, and there's plenty of other write-up's on shifting a Beemer, so I'll defer to those.   I certainly don't assume that all BMW riders are familiar with the shifting idiosyncrasies of the Beemer, although the OP indicated he was a veteran BMW rider.   Shifting worked the same way on my Hexhead R1200RT as the Oilhead.   Although I've read that the Wethead I'm about to receive is "buttery smooth" due to multiple upgrades since the Hexhead, I still expect that that description remains relative to Boxers.  (Of course, Wetheads are made for clutch-less quick-shifts, so I'm sure there's a learning curve.  Can't wait until I stall it like a noob the first time!  Yippee!!).

[Skywagon]

Hi Scott… My wethead is a 14 I bought new. The clunk is still there just like prior bikes. It’s only 1-2 and 2-1. On 1-2 it’s more of a little grind. On neutral to 1 or 2-1 it’s the brand clunk. Preload really helps and once the bike is warm it’s almost gone. When going from 2-1 if I wait until nearly stopped and have had the clutch in for a while it is a non issue

 

The newer wetheads might be better. I honestly don’t mind or notice it anymore since this has been part of the brand when I bought my first BMW in 1979

[Scott9999]

Hi David,

 

I know that they made some transmission upgrades between 2016-2017 (and of course, the 2018  incorporates the 2017 changes).  Not yet sure what the real world impact will be on the bike.

 

"All 2017 liquid-cooled boxer models were fitted with a judder (definition: an instance of rapid and forceful shaking and vibration) damper on the transmission output shaft. New features also included a revised selector drum actuator, transmission shafts, and transmission shaft bearing. "

 https://bmwdean.com/r1200rtw.htm

 

This thread includes comments about the shifting, as well (not totally on topic, but it was interesting, and this is an old, old thread so who cares anyhow).

 

My conclusion about Beemers in general is (a) "they all do that" to some extent, (b) they are all somewhat unique in the way they ride, sound, and shift, and (c) both the shifting and BMW twin engine noise are a part of the bike's character.  Certainly there are ways to mitigate both, i.e. for the engine, accurate valve adjustments (and with the wetheads, I guess the cams adjustments are an issue), and for the transmission, different oil, a clutch basket change out, etc..  For the most part, if it's not broke don't fix it, just ride it. 

 

Going back to the OP in August 2020, I think preloading his shifts would help, if he's not already doing that.

 

[Rube]

I wear ear plugs because I don't like listening to the BMW machinery in action. That being said - In 50 years or riding I can say transmissions are excellent. I pre-load on the upshift and it is smooth as butter. If I am not pounding on the bike I upshift without the clutch. When done right the passenger doesn't even know I have changed gears.

[Re-beemer]

Define “pre-load” for me please. 

[Rougarou]

2 hours ago, Re-beemer said:

Define “pre-load” for me please. 

 

Putting pressure on the gear shift before shifting,......kinda like taking the slack out of a trigger before firing.

[lawnchairboy]

TADT

[Ozzyal]

I'm very surprised no one has suggested the use of additives  . 

I'm on my 5th Beemer  ,  the use of a good quality additive gives an amazing difference in shift quality  . Geez  , it's so sweet on the camhead its barely needed anyway  , but still a huge improvement  . 

[MichiganBob]

Here's my take from riding Beemer twins since 1971. Over time, you become one with the bike and you learn how to communicate about shifting and then you develop the right neuropathways and then muscle memory and technique evolve and you then know how to minimize the clunk. You get better at shifting and understanding the RPM and the torque curve variable in shifting. It just kinda happens.

 

Now if your from the camp that says that I have ridden other models or brands and did not have to go through this, then I would say I'm sure that's true. Every model has it's quirks and pros and cons. My five Beemer twins have always been clunking to some extent.