Can I use this Ohlins adjuster to lower my rear suspension?

[Miguel!]

 

I've looked for a manual online but haven't found one so don't really understand its operation nor how to adjust it properly.

 

Thanks Miguel

[Claudio]

Hi Miguel,

 

That is your pre-load adjustment. It controls how extended the rear shock is before the weight of your passenger/gear is applied.

 

It has a lowering effect when turned counter clockwise.  The idea is that you need to start "higher" when you are carrying more weight so that you do not bottom out or have challenges deploying/retracting your side stand.  When not carrying a load, you can "lower" the preload more. Stock suspension on the RT has the same adjuster.

 

Hope that helps.

[Jim Moore]

What Claudio says. If you turn that knob all the way to the left the bike won't look any lower, but it will sink further when you sit on it. So in effect you have lowered the bike. You may end up with too much sag, but as long as the shock doesn't bottom out when you go over bumps you're probably OK.

 

I can't tell from that pic but there may be a ride height adjustment at the bottom of the shock. See if there's a threaded connector at the bottom of the shock. If so, you'll have to remove the shock to make the adjustment. that's the correct way to change ride height.

[Paul De]

This is a hydraulic system to set preload on the spring.  It is meant to match the spring force to load and maintain proper ride height.  While you could back it all the way off to lower seat height for the weight and gear there are a number of cautions in doing this.  First is that there is no such convenient adjustment for the front and lowering the rear only changes the geometry of the Telelever and the bikes handling characteristics will change (likely for the worse).  You loose stroke travel on the rear shock and because the spring preload isn't matching your load you are more likely to bottom out the rear suspension.  You might be able to counter that somewhat by increasing the damping level (round knob on bottom of the shock) as it adjusts both compression and rebound damping in unison, but the down side to that is a more harsh ride. You will loose ground clearance so you will need to be a bit less aggressive in the tight turns.

 

To expand on Jim's second comment which like Jim said likely requires you to pull the shock to adjust shock length. This is accomplished by loosening a jam nut on the bottom of the lower shock eye and screwing that shock eye clockwise to reduce overall shock length by maybe a few millimeters.  Given the location of the shock attachment on the Paralever you might drop seat height be maybe a centimeter or so.  Not much but is something.  At least you will be able to keep spring preload and damping in a normal range which yields a plush and well controlled shock performance. There is a big caution here in that you will need to verify that the tire won't interfere with the fender if the shock bottoms out its travel.  You might do so some research if a lover profile tire is available (not likely as the proper tire sized is already a fairly low profile tire).  I am not sure if this adjustment is also available on the from shock

 

Last, you might inquire to an Ohlins dealer, or Ohlins themselves, to see if you could have them rebuild the shocks (front & rear) with shorter shafts and springs. That way you can get both front and rear lowered equally, maintain steering characteristics and turn you RT into a true lowrider

[Miguel!]

Thanks for the explanation and helpful comments. I'll likely just leave it as it is. I was hoping I might be able to lower the seat a bit so I can flat-foot the bike. I think my best bet is to have Corbin shave my seat a bit. They are about 80 minutes from me, its a nice ride there so I'll see if that's a potential solution. 

 

Miguel

[Paul De]

Prolly the easiest way to go.  When I put a Russell Day Long on my '99 RT I could no longer flat foot either, but it is close with my heels is just off the ground, so I got used to it.  Coming from a dirt bike background, it sort got me used to never having both feet flat on the ground, but I have riding friends where this is a big issue for them...they ride cruisers

[duckbubbles]

21 hours ago, Miguel! said:

I was hoping I might be able to lower the seat a bit so I can flat-foot the bike. I think my best bet is to have Corbin shave my seat a bit.

Miguel

Your best option.  Many people don't realize that lowering the suspension brings problems with side and centerstand operation.

 

Frank

[Miguel!]

1 hour ago, duckbubbles said:

Many people don't realize that lowering the suspension brings problems with side and centerstand operation

I didn't either but it makes sense that it would impact their operation. Thanks.

Miguel

[Brucifer1150]

Rather than start a new thread to answer a single question, I'll throw it here:

When increasing the weight-load on the bike (turning the knob clockwise), is there a maximum setting where the knob won't turn anymore or will it just 'slip' and continue to turn? I'm a big boy and it bottoms out on railroad tracks at speed. Just don't know when to stop turning.

 

Thanks.

[9Mary7]

IIRC it will stop turning when adjusted to its maximum preload.

[TSConver]

4 hours ago, Brucifer1150 said:

Rather than start a new thread to answer a single question, I'll throw it here:

When increasing the weight-load on the bike (turning the knob clockwise), is there a maximum setting where the knob won't turn anymore or will it just 'slip' and continue to turn? I'm a big boy and it bottoms out on railroad tracks at speed. Just don't know when to stop turning.

 

Thanks.

 

Should really start a new thread that way if someone else has the same questions it would come up in a search.

[RK Ryder]

Miguel, at 5' 6 1/2", I found my R1100RT Corbin way too wide, for my feet to feel comfortable when coming in for a landing. My Russell, although possibly wider, is narrow at the gas tank. When stopping with the RDL, I side forward to the narrow front section and the balls of my feet rest on the ground, although if I use only the left foot, the left is flat footed. I can flat foot both feet the 1100 with the seat in lowest position but my legs are more comfortable with seat in the mid position despite the additional distance to the ground. When touring, I alternate between the mid and high seat positions.

 

I made the mistake of lowering my K half an inch in 2008. The bike became impossible to place on the centre stand without placing a board under the rear tire. Restored it to it's proper height two years ago and what a positive difference in the  handling! 

 

I don't recommend lowering the bike.

[Miguel!]

Thanks RK. I decided against trying to adjust the suspension when I read about the changes to the side stand and center stand posture it causes. I've acclimated to the seat height which almost lets me flatfoot but not quite. I'm just going to live with it. I've thought about having Corbin shave down the seat. Their Hollister CA factory is about an hour away from me and I regularly ride by there but it takes the better part of a day for them to disassemble the seat, adjust in successive steps till it meets my satisfaction, and then put it all back together so I've not done it. I'd rather be out riding. Further, I can see the planned end of my riding career in the next few years so I'm just going to live with it. 

 

Thanks for the advice!!

Miguel