1150RT windscreen not go up much

[Redman]

THis spring it seemed the windscreen would only go up about 3/4ths as much as before, but maybe I just didnt really remember how far it would go up before.

 

Now yesterday it would only go up about 1/2 the way, and today now it only move up a little bit. Will go down all the way, but only goes up a little bit and quits, doesnt seem to stall out, doesnt grunt, just seems to quit. When it goes down it doesnt quit, it bottoms out and keeps on grunting.

 

Am not finding much with the search, but I imagine there has been such discussions before, as I recall seeing some.

Can someone with better search skills post some links or something??

[Doctare]

Some years ago I had the same thing happen on my 1997 R1100RT.  I took the front off and examined the windshield assembly gears.  I found that teeth were missing from a plastic gear.  I replaced the gear and it's been working since.

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, Redman said:

THis spring it seemed the windscreen would only go up about 3/4ths as much as before, but maybe I just didnt really remember how far it would go up before.

 

Now yesterday it would only go up about 1/2 the way, and today now it only move up a little bit. Will go down all the way, but only goes up a little bit and quits, doesnt seem to stall out, doesnt grunt, just seems to quit. When it goes down it doesnt quit, it bottoms out and keeps on grunting.

 

Am not finding much with the search, but I imagine there has been such discussions before, as I recall seeing some.

Can someone with better search skills post some links or something??

Morning  Redman

 

It sounds like the windshield position isn't matching the  limit switch's. Usually a driven  gear problem (possibly a stripped tooth like on  Doctare's above. 

 

About all you can do is take it apart & see what is wrong-- Or possibly just by-pass the limit switches then be VERY CAERFUL in how you move the windshield  to not allow it to go too far in either direction. 

[Redman]

Thanks, DR.

 

ah, so there are travel limit switches (I kinda thought so, and why I described it as I did) ..... shows you how little I have looked into this, I suppose the limit switches would be apparent on the electrical schematics.

 

okay, will need to see what section of the manual (have factory manual) describes how to disassemble the front of the fairing there. (At the moment I have no idea.)

 

so aside from disassembling the front of the fairing, there will be disassembling the raise/lower mechnism, replacing what ever is broken as doctar mentioned....... . and some thing needs to be done to coordinate the position of the raise/lower mechanism and the limit switches. Okay will look into that.

[NumbHands]

I had this problem. Limited travel. Took it all apart, cleaned it up, and full travel of the windscreen returned. I think the previous owner NEVER changed the position and the mechanism was never exercised....

 

 

M.

[NumbHands]

Forgot to mention I lubed the mechanism with some lithium grease.

[Redman]

... d e l e t e ....

[Redman]

 

On 7/18/2020 at 9:48 PM, Doctare said:

Some years ago I had the same thing happen on my 1997 R1100RT.  I took the front off and examined the windshield assembly gears.  I found that teeth were missing from a plastic gear.  I replaced the gear and it's been working since.

Doctare,

THanks. I suspect I will find something similar . . . . . when/after I figure out how to disassemble things.

Doctare, Doctare, Give me the news.

 

 

On 7/19/2020 at 7:11 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning  Redman

 

It sounds like the windshield position isn't matching the  limit switch's. Usually a driven  gear problem (possibly a stripped tooth like on  Doctare's above. 

 

About all you can do is take it apart & see what is wrong-- Or possibly just by-pass the limit switches then be VERY CAERFUL in how you move the windshield  to not allow it to go too far in either direction. 

DR,

Yes, it does seem like the position is inconsistent with how the switches are operating. AS if something slipped out of position.

 

Am looking into the disassembly.

 

I have had this bike for almost 6 years now, but 5 of those years it was 2250 miles away at SonInLaw/Daughters house (SanDiego),  for when we visited a week or 10 days at a time once or twice a year. And as such I havent done any work on it myself. (The dealer certainly did.)

 

Oh, it is a Clymers manaul (for R850, R1100, R1150, R1200C,  1993-2005) that I got, not a "factory" manual that I stated before.

 

(next post to have ignoramus question) 

 

 

 

On 7/21/2020 at 11:59 AM, NumbHands said:

I had this problem. Limited travel. Took it all apart, cleaned it up, and full travel of the windscreen returned. I think the previous owner NEVER changed the position and the mechanism was never exercised....

 

 

M.

NH,

My situation here exhibits some specific symptoms that might be different than your situation.

Mine moves up about half inch from the bottom, whir whir, hear a little click and it stop, all quite, doesnt even grunt. THis is like it hit the travel limit switch.

And it moves down, whir whir, to where it bottoms out on the faring and it grunts and keeps smashing the rubber cushions and keeps on grunting till let off the button. THis is like it is still running the motor to go down and is not hitting the limit switch.

 

But, hey, I would like to discuss the "took it all apart".

(next post to follow)

 

 

[Redman]

Like I said, I have no expereince working on this bike. Have not taken off any side panels.

 

Looking in the Clymers manaul :

 (after find right section for 1150RT)

 

- To remove the Windshield and Lift Mechanism (pg 662)

Remove windshield from the lift mecanism (spacer , gasket etcetera)

Remove the upper fairing as described elsewhere.

Remove bolts , washers, nuts to lift out the mechanism.

 

- To remove the upper fairing (pg 665)

a. Remove both seats (huh?) (I suppose for access to screws for side panels)

b. Remove windshield and lift mechanism (huh? said had to remove upper fairing to remove lift mechanism) (I assume need to just remove the windshield, but "windshield and lift mechanism" is the title of the section of the book.)

c. Remove both side panels (huh? what? Really?)

d. Remove both side view mirrors (that was puzzle, but understand are bolts under there)

e. Remove front fairing inner panel (what might call dashboard bezel) (huh? what? Really?)

Remove the headlight mounting nuts from upper fairing. (okay)

Remove antenna connection (okay)(I need to replace the base anyway, is broke)

Remove screws from bracket and fuel tank, pull forward. (Ah, um, okay I quess) 

 

Any words of wisdom that can explain if and why some of those steps are really needed for access to the lift mechanism.

Especially "c" and "e".

 

 

 

[NumbHands]

The upper fairing is attached to everything.

 

 

[dirtrider]

Evening Redman

 

Hopefully you have it apart by now-- 

 

If so then you will find the limit switches inside the motor assembly (brown wire common, yellow/violet & yellow/black are the limit switch outputs). 

 

The problem is usually NOT (almost never) in or at the limit switches, the problem is usually  in the drive or driven worm gear on the arm lifter (gear teeth strip, or wear & then skip a tooth). This is at the motor to cross shaft  worm gear mating.

 

Once the gear mesh slips then the limit switches are no longer aligned with windshield position. 

 

The gear parts used to be non-serviceable (we had to rob them out of a parted motorcycle) but I think BMW now has parts sourced for that gear set (or at least the worm driven gear anyhow)

[AndyS]

On 7/25/2020 at 11:17 PM, NumbHands said:

The upper fairing is attached to everything.

 

 

 

 

 

When you come to refit the fairing, check items 2 & 3. #3 is a rubber bush (like a chunky rubber grommet). Item#2 is a metal top hat bush that the fairing stud slides into. The fairing stud is threaded, BUT it doesn't use a nut, so don't go looking for a nut to put on it, 'cos it doesn't need one.

 

So when you come to fit the fairing, make sure the metal top hat is inserted into the rubber bush before you start.. 

Those often fall out when the fairing is removed and people  don't find out about it until the fairing is fully buttoned up...or maybe never!

[Redman]

On 7/26/2020 at 4:56 PM, dirtrider said:

.

.

.

 

Once the gear mesh slips then the limit switches are no longer aligned with windshield position. 

 

The gear parts used to be non-serviceable (we had to rob them out of a parted motorcycle) but I think BMW now has parts sourced for that gear set (or at least the worm driven gear anyhow)

 

 

 

No, havent gotten it apart yet. (Have stuff going on such that am only home 3 says a week.) (didnt want to take apart and leave out-of-service  waiting for parts)

 

Thanks for info. I was looking for location of the limit swtiches.

 

Hum... maybe can get those gear parts on order before disassemble.

 

Hum.... I saw on ebay multiple units listed as complete but  "broken mount".

[Redman]

On 7/27/2020 at 5:32 AM, AndyS said:

 

 

When you come to refit the fairing, ..

.

.

Thanks for explaining that. I had been looking at that, and not understanding it. Thanks.

[Redman]

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMid/B0003544.png?v=07242017

 

Part #19 ... ?

 

 

 

Part Number	Description	lb	Qty	Each	Total
46632313466	WORM WHEEL	0.08
Total Weight:lbs			Sub Total:

 

$28

 

BMW R1100RT	1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
BMW R1150RT	2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006

Show Less

 

[AndyS]

Hi Redman, personally, I wouldn't jump the gun on buying that gear wheel. Personally, I'd take it apart and establish what the problem really is before preempting the diagnosis.

[dirtrider]

Morning Redman

 

It is usually gear #19 that strips but it could be other things (like motor gears stripped internally).

 

You might be able to go in as far as removing cover #16, that will probably tell you  if gear #19 is the problem.

 

 

[Redman]

On 7/26/2020 at 4:56 PM, dirtrider said:

Evening Redman

 

Hopefully you have it apart by now-- ..

.

.

 now I do.

 

Had the afternoon, and wasn't hot-humid today.

So I started into it....me and my 3mm allen wrench ....  following the Clymer manual.

 

Seats, side covers, mirrors, then started in on the side panels.... first time for me doing any of this (well, except for the seat).

Followed manual step by step on the side panels, had out every screw, and checked again for every screw, and could not get off side panels....

 

So I let that sit for a while (before getting more frustrated), removed the windshield (put screws no2 back in place so dont loose spacers no3)  and remove that panel under the windshield... and...

AND... there... THERE was fairly good access to the raise lower mechanism.

Removed that cover (#16) to see the gear (#19) and could see a good chunk of one of the teeth laying in there broke off,  saw the piece there about the size of an entore tooth,same shape and size, but didnt see where it came from on the gear.

If I held the rod and gear in place I could operate the motor some, what little it would go down, and up till the limit switch clicked and motor stop with mechanism up about half inch. Since the mechanism was only up a little bit, near the bottom, I held the gear up away from the motor gear so the mechanism didnt move, and ran motor down till its limit switch clicked and moter stopped. THen I held the gear in place and ran the shield up, and it went up higher that it had before, then apparently got to the bad place and the windshiled went down a ways (is spring loaded to close down)   ah, haaa.... that is how the motor (and limit swiches) get out of position from the windshield.

As much as I ran the motor, the gear never turned a full turn for me to see where the tooth was broken off from, but the piece I found did look just like on of the teeth from the gear, I doubt itcould have been anything else.

 

THere is four screws (with nuts behind, carfull not to drop) to loosen the mechanism from the fairing mount, but isnt enough clearance to get the mechanism up out of the fairing, but can move it around some to get better access to some things. I see how can Can remove the circlips (#15) and push the rod thru the mechanism to free the gear (but I didnt).

 

So, I am here to say: TO get access to the raise lower mechanism,  just remove the windshield and that panel under the windshield. THat will get you access enough to get at the gear no19, but not enough clearance to remove the entire mechanism.

If need access to the raise lower motor, or if need to remove the entire mechanism, well , then do need to remove the side panels so can get access to the bolts to remove the upper fairing.

 

(Did eventually figure the trick to getting the side panel off. So that was a good exercize in learning about that. But dont need to to get some access to the raise lower mechanism.)

 

Will get the gear on order. In the mean time, get it all back together.

When recieve the gear, dont need to take off the side panels......