Spark plugs for 2016 R1200RT, scarce and over priced at the dealer.

[Monte Sloan Jr]

Ok, next bike maintenance topic. The NGK plugs for my R1200RT seem scarce, not available at most auto parts stores. My dealer wants $20 each for a plug, what ? Not paying that.

Anyhow I went directly to NGK's website - sparkplugs.com and ordered 2 plugs $11.86 each. $29.96 with shipping. I just thought I would pass this along.

Ok, on plug installation, do you use anti seize or not ?  Copper or nickel anti seize ?  I've read the NGK's are pre coated with anti seize. 

 

So I await the enlightened discussions, thoughts, concerns, inputs. 

Thank you.

 

[Bernie]

Check out BeemerBoneYard.com for spark plugs for the WetHead motor. They also carry all the other supplies needed, including air filter, oil filter and oil for motor and rear drive. Including brake pads.

I never use anti seize on the spark plugs and I don’t think BMW does either.

 

[Paul De]

I've used nickel based anti seize, but not on my RT.  I've used it on old lawn mower engines and older boat motors.  Last time I saw a crusted frozen plug on a motorcycle was a Kawasaki Bighorn back in the 80's.  The bike sat outside for several years with the tank off and the owner tried to gorilla arm it out, broke the plug and stripped the threads, helped him install a helicoil.   The plugs are very protected from the elements on a Wethead.

 

 

 

[RTinNC]

My thinking is I am having the dealer do the valve check at the 12K intervals so I am happy to pay the $10 extra and buy the plugs from them.  Since they have to remove the plugs when they check valves labor is free on the plug swap. Not that saving a buck is not important but since they are doing some of the 12K service having them do the plugs is just easier.  I do the oil, filter, final drive and let them do the rest. 

[Paul4450]

If you look on eBay or Amazon for plugs, be aware there are counterfeit plugs!  There are videos describing the differences. Dealers and auto supply stores always will get their plugs from trusted sources, unlike eBay or Amazon, which do not vet their sources. 
 

As a side note this is a image of my iridium plugs (NGK LMAR8AI-8, part 92288) after about 6000 miles. There is very little, if any, wear on the electrodes. I’m thinking they will last much longer than 12,000 miles like the standard plugs. 
 

 

[Boxflyer]

Hi Paul,

I've been using the NGK Iridium plugs since the first 12k service. (Now at 67k)  The LMAR9AI8 I use is 1 heat range colder than what is specified for our WetHead bikes, but I've felt NO difference whatsoever.  I buy them at RockAuto https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ngk,97225,spark+plug,7212 , 4 at a time and even with the $3 shipping, they come to about $9.75 each.

I also buy my air filter Mahle LX3595 there for $13.76 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mahle+/+clevite,LX3595,air+filter,6192

As well as my oil filters which are Mahle OC916 which are $8.20 each. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mahle/clevite,OC619,oil+filter,5340

Buying enough for 2 or 3 oil changes and a couple of 12k services brings the shipping down to a very reasonable amount.

 

My observation of the OEM large electrode, 2 ground plugs at the 12k service is that they are very well eroded and definitely need to be replaced.  Similarly, the Iridium plug shows erosion on the center electrode just below the tip where the Iridium material ends and the more common base metal (probably special steel) continues into the ceramic insulator.

I document most of my work on not only my bike, but on the other 6-8 bikes that I work on regularly, and see lots of areas of interest for additional routine maintenance.

So, it's my strongest recommendation NOT to extend the change interval of the spark plugs, whether it's the OEM or the Iridium.  Below is and an image of how oval the center electrode can be worn down to from round (new), and a close up of a 13k Iridium that is in desperate need of replacement.

Also included is the Mahle air filter next to OEM.

[Monte Sloan Jr]

Very nice job, thank you.

[Monte Sloan Jr]

I have installed a K&N air filter and use K&N oil filters.

[Paul De]

I had posted here a while back to be careful on where you are sourcing spark plugs, particularly the pricier iridium versions, as there are fakes out there for all major brand names.  It is actually hard to tell without knowing the hallmarks to look for.  NGK even has a spot on the website dedicated to how to spot a fake NGK.  Amazon and Ebay are flooded with these fake plugs. If the price is too good to be true, it probably is a fake. Buy from reputable/established sources only.  I learned the hard way, but at least the seller was prompt to issue a RMA when I pointed out that the plugs were counterfit.

[Monte Sloan Jr]

Thank you, I never knew there were fake spark plugs. 

[BobW03]

Autozone has them for just over 10.00 each and will ship to home as not in stock. I just ordered 6 plugs.

[Monte Sloan Jr]

57 minutes ago, BobW03 said:

Autozone has them for just over 10.00 each and will ship to home as not in stock. I just ordered 6 plugs.

 

My Autozone in Petaluma, CA couldn't get them ?

[Monte Sloan Jr]

 

Thanks all again for all of the insights and inputs.

[Paul4450]

Hi Boxflyer,

I will certainly be checking my iridium plugs at my next service. I find it amazing that the wetheads eat plugs like candy!  Other motors like my BMW E46 328i only need them changed every 100K (even though I changed them around 50K). And they looked great!

 

I’ll also check out Rockauto. I’ve used them for other vehicles- just didn’t think to check them for plugs and filters!  
 

Thanks again Boxflyer!

 

And credit does go to Paul De on the counterfeit plugs. I saw his post on it and I neglected to reference th at and give him the credit he deserves. My apologies. 

[Bernie]

A long time BMW rider was really surprised by the increase in response and performance of his WetHead GS, when He recently changed his spark plugs before our ride to the Kinsley Memorial event. On these bikes spark plugs are a consumable item, like tires and brake pads. 

[LAF]

Never have I seen a bike eat plugs like BMW's.  My LT was fine.

 

I have used Iridium in my RT and my GS since the the first 12K service.  It eats them no matter what and I think I get good performance and mileage from them so I just use them.  I been using the NGK LMAR8AI-8, part 92288 also.

 

Rockauto has been my got to for cars and anything I can cross to the bikes for a long time.  They are pretty good on service and delivery times.

 

[RTinNC]

On 7/16/2020 at 10:55 AM, Monte Sloan Jr said:

Thank you, I never knew there were fake spark plugs. 

When buying on line these days there is pretty much fake everything.  Especially if coming from outside the US

[LAF]

I should add I have my 18K coming up on my GS so will know if the Iridium will go at least 18K instead of the called out 12K as I left them in at 12K.

 

It is not a cost thing using the NGK, nor is it a labor thing as I do valve, cam, cam position sensor alignment, and look at the plugs every 6K. 

 

Yes I know TOO much, right

 

[Topophilia]

I don't know if I am close to brain dead or just ignorant, but I cannot find either NGK 97225 or NGK 92288 as acceptable applications for my 2016 RTW.  How does one find out if this plug will work properly? How did y'all decide  on these plugs versus the factory recommended plugs. Having burned a hole through a motorcycle piston because of a wrong heat range plug in my youth, I am very nervous about trying these plugs.

 

Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Bob

[Boxflyer]

Hey Bob,

The 97225 is listed as an OEM plug for KTM bikes and is only 1 heat range colder than what is specified for our R1200 Wethead....same physical dimensions.  In the number LMAR9AI8, the 9 is the heat range indicates that it is one step cooler than the OEM LMAR8D-J.  The most common issue with colder plugs has been historically more carbon buildup on the center insulator and maybe some fouling because it's not burning off deposits.

As you can see in all the pics I posted, that 1 step cooler is not causing any irregular deposit buildup.

I do reiterate...don't push these or the OEM plugs past 12k if at all possible...it's just not worth it for such a critical part of our high performance engine.  If it's called for as scheduled maintenance, then it's a good idea to do it...."generally"...

[Topophilia]

Boxflier,

Thank you for the information. Since you have a lot of miles under your belt on the 97225, I will assume that there is no issue with it. I have ordered a couple of sets and will change at next service.

 

Thanks,

Bob

[Boxflyer]

I think you will like them.  As an added note, plugs installed in the WetHead are to be installed dry...no anti seize on threads and 12Nm torque.  

I don't mean to offend your knowledge base, just feel like it might help if I mentioned it.

 

[alegerlotz]

I recently did a 24K mile service on my 2016 RT and the electrodes where definitely oval rather than round because of erosion of the electrode material.

 

Some off the cuff analysis, if you're going an average of 60 mph @4000 rpm for 12K miles (nice round numbers for computation) that's 12,000,000 sparks per plug.  [Math: (12000 mi/60 mph) x (4000 rpm / 4 strokes) x 60 minutes = 12,000,000 sparks].

 

I'm ok replacing something that's done 12 million of something. especially when it can be done at home for a few dollars.

 

 

[Topophilia]

3 hours ago, Boxflyer said:

I think you will like them.  As an added note, plugs installed in the WetHead are to be installed dry...no anti seize on threads and 12Nm torque.  

I don't mean to offend your knowledge base, just feel like it might help if I mentioned it.

 

Boxflyer,

I'm 70 years old, have been a mechanic for most of those years and I know for a fact that I get dumber each year. I may have lots of knowledge, but the biggest thing I have learned is that there is a whole lot I DON'T know. I appreciate whatever anyone is willing to share. It is then MY responsibility to sort that information into usable formats.

 

Thank you,

Bob

 

[NumbHands]

2 hours ago, alegerlotz said:

I recently did a 24K mile service on my 2016 RT and the electrodes where definitely oval rather than round because of erosion of the electrode material.

 

Some off the cuff analysis, if you're going an average of 60 mph @4000 rpm for 12K miles (nice round numbers for computation) that's 12,000,000 sparks per plug.  [Math: (12000 mi/60 mph) x (4000 rpm / 4 strokes) x 60 minutes = 12,000,000 sparks].

 

I'm ok replacing something that's done 12 million of something. especially when it can be done at home for a few dollars.

 

 

I recall the 1150RT plugs fired twice per 4 strokes, i.e. both at the same time. One cylinder top of compression, the other in exhaust stroke. So, perhaps 24,000,000 sparks per plug. If the LC motor still does it the same way, perhaps that explains the limited life.

[LAF]

Each to their own.  Spark plug is a spark plug it is good or bad.  It still has a gap that is close or it is burnt open.  So if at 12k the gap is good and the electrode is good use it to the 18K . 

 

You know this is not a rocket ship or a human being to hang emotions on for oil and spark plugs and air filters.   Look at the plug and gap it and see how close it is.  Cars run plugs for 60,000 miles, now we have a motorcycle engine that needs plugs every 12K regardless?

 

Common sense.  I believe in maintenance to the max.  I dont believe in having a manufacturer tell me I need to have a Dealer make money on me just because it says so.  Sorta like them calling out NEW cylinder head gaskets for EVERY valve check.  They go indefinitely. 

 

Your bike do what you like and makes you feel happy.  However look at your plugs, send your oil off for a UOA to see how much longer YOUR motor can go on oil.

 

Every single motor runs and burns differently.  My point is use common sense,  just do not take someone's word that something is bad or no good because it reached a certain mileage.  I run my bike very very hard.  By that I mean I run over 100 EVERY time I am out on it.  I consistently run 80-90 everywhere we go.  My top speed is a GPS of 127 MPH.  I haven't reached max MPH yet.I run the bike hard.  In the next week or two I will get my 18K done and post the pics of the plugs.  If they look good I will run them to 24K. 

 

As a side note I run a PC V with autotune on a Dynoed custom fuel map on my GS.  I had the same on my 15 RT.  The bike runs hard and with all the gas it needs and can handle so that well may be why my plugs burn pretty nicely. 

 

Again dont be a sheep, think and do for yourself.

 

[Monte Sloan Jr]

3 hours ago, Topophilia said:

Boxflyer,

I'm 70 years old, have been a mechanic for most of those years and I know for a fact that I get dumber each year. I may have lots of knowledge, but the biggest thing I have learned is that there is a whole lot I DON'T know. I appreciate whatever anyone is willing to share. It is then MY responsibility to sort that information into usable formats.

 

Thank you,

Bob

 

 

No offense Bob, AS I said I am the newbie in owning a BMW. I have owned just about everything but a Beemer. Saved the best for last I guess . Any  help, assistance or guidance from doing anything dumb is greatly appreciated .

[Knobby10]

I use ( or try to) only top tier gas----not trying to start a new debate here but my plugs looked brand new at 12K. As opposed to LAF my bike has never been over 7K RPM or had any top speed riding. I use to ride that way all the time but have slowed way down in my old age of 74. 

[BrianM]

I have not tested on a wethead. On my camhead, I set the gap to minimum, in 12,000 miles they were at the maximum gap.

 

I would be reluctant to change to a different heat range, even if cooler. Might try the same plug in a different material.

 

Last time I paid $17 per plug from the dealer. I currently buy one set a year. Also buy oil and filter from dealer. I do it to help support them. My nearest dealer closed a couple years ago. This dealer is better and would prefer they stay in business. I do all the work and let them hook it up to their computer at service intervals.

 

BTW, when I raced, I paid $25/plug and $70/cap (spark plugs.com). Ran plugs one weekend, top pros, every day. Average season - 20 to 24 plugs and 4 caps. My plug bill rivaled my  gas ($6/gallon) bill for a season. Cost to run the bike was more than $6/mile.

[Cap]

I finished  long trip last week, and noted that my RT was starting to run just a bit rough at high RPMs and under load.  Nothing major, but just a bit off.  When I got back, I did a quick inspection to check valves.  Within spec.  But the plugs were just starting to show some signs of wear at 8000+ miles.  After replacing with new, the bike runs smoothly again.

 

[KMC1]

Hey guys,

I just got a 2016 RT a couple days ago, and on my first couple rides I'm just acclimating to it. I'm getting a sound that to my ear sounds like "spark knock" or detonation and my first thought is to change the plugs. The dealer said they did an annual on it to ready it for sale, and I haven't pulled the plugs that are in it yet to check, but I'm shopping for some new plugs at the moment. Is there a discount code or similar to get better pricing on things with Bob's BMW? I figure if I'm ordering plugs I may as well get oil and filters and such while I"m at it.

 

TIA!

[AZgman]

Use Beemer Boneyard for supplies. First rate service! 

If you ride down to my place we can check the cams, valves, and use OBDII to see if there are any codes thrown.

[lkraus]

Code for 10% Discount at Beemer Boneyard is BMWST

[Frank Brown]

1 hour ago, KMC1 said:

Hey guys,

I just got a 2016 RT a couple days ago, and on my first couple rides I'm just acclimating to it. I'm getting a sound that to my ear sounds like "spark knock" or detonation and my first thought is to change the plugs. The dealer said they did an annual on it to ready it for sale, and I haven't pulled the plugs that are in it yet to check, but I'm shopping for some new plugs at the moment. Is there a discount code or similar to get better pricing on things with Bob's BMW? I figure if I'm ordering plugs I may as well get oil and filters and such while I"m at it.

 

TIA!

It might be old gas or regular gas or a coil stick????????  

[Cap]

5 hours ago, brown said:

It might be old gas or regular gas or a coil stick????????  

if you had a bad coil, it would run just barely or not at all.  If this is your first boxer, you can expect a lot of noises that sound alarming.  The engine should rev smoothly to redline.  If it doesn’t, then something is off.  No way to know what it is from your description, but a complete 12k mile service should correct anything that isn’t a major malfunction.  Whenever I buy a new (used) moto, I like to perform a complete service to assure that everything is fresh and in-spec.  Search for Boxflyer’s six-part YouTube video series to learn about doing the full service yourself.

[Boxflyer]

As Cap mentioned, this series can help you learn about the condition of your bike and allow you to be more comfortable doing the major service yourself

 

Just 2 days ago, I updated all 6 videos with more detailed timeline references so you can jump directly to a specific area of interest.

The links to the files have also been updated and the Hi-Rez .jpg files to be able to print your own Boxflyer Board for keeping your panel screws organized are available.

 

My goal with these videos was to help folks learn about these WetHead bikes and understand how to do the basic 12k/20km service on their own.

 

R1200RTW 12k Miles/20k KM Service

[KMC1]

On 9/4/2020 at 2:29 PM, AZgman said:

Use Beemer Boneyard for supplies. First rate service! 

If you ride down to my place we can check the cams, valves, and use OBDII to see if there are any codes thrown.

LOL you just like tearing my new bikes apart!  I bought the OBD2 and the power cord for it, so now we need to fire up that old Samsung and put that app on there to see if it will work!

[KMC1]

On 9/4/2020 at 2:57 PM, lkraus said:

Code for 10% Discount at Beemer Boneyard is BMWST

You rock, thank you!

 

[KMC1]

On 9/4/2020 at 3:09 PM, brown said:

It might be old gas or regular gas or a coil stick????????  

It is running pretty smooth, just has a ticking sound if that makes any sense, and only when I'm on the throttle. Runs strong though, just playing with the quickshifter and I accidently hit go-to-jail speeds before I realized it lol

On 9/4/2020 at 8:52 PM, Cap said:

if you had a bad coil, it would run just barely or not at all.  If this is your first boxer, you can expect a lot of noises that sound alarming.  The engine should rev smoothly to redline.  If it doesn’t, then something is off.  No way to know what it is from your description, but a complete 12k mile service should correct anything that isn’t a major malfunction.  Whenever I buy a new (used) moto, I like to perform a complete service to assure that everything is fresh and in-spec.  Search for Boxflyer’s six-part YouTube video series to learn about doing the full service yourself.

It does rev smoothly all the way to redline, makes good power, getting 50.8 mpg average over the last 500 miles since I bought it, and generally seems pretty smooth if a little buzzy at 4500 to 6500 rpm. I like your thought about doing the service on it, so I can get in there and make sure everything is good. Thanks so much for posting about those videos, that is just awesome and super helpful! 

[KMC1]

On 9/5/2020 at 6:13 AM, Boxflyer said:

As Cap mentioned, this series can help you learn about the condition of your bike and allow you to be more comfortable doing the major service yourself

 

Just 2 days ago, I updated all 6 videos with more detailed timeline references so you can jump directly to a specific area of interest.

The links to the files have also been updated and the Hi-Rez .jpg files to be able to print your own Boxflyer Board for keeping your panel screws organized are available.

 

My goal with these videos was to help folks learn about these WetHead bikes and understand how to do the basic 12k/20km service on their own.

 

R1200RTW 12k Miles/20k KM Service

Dude you freaking ROCK - I started watching the videos tonight and they are really well done. What an amazing contribution to the owner's - if we meet at some point you are definitely getting a free beer 

[Cap]

8 hours ago, KMC1 said:

It is running pretty smooth, just has a ticking sound if that makes any sense, and only when I'm on the throttle. ...generally seems pretty smooth if a little buzzy at 4500 to 6500 rpm. 

Ticking sounds are normal.  Buzzy is normal, although that specific rev range is usually where the buzz minimizes in my experience.  If it were me, I would check valve clearances, and verify that they are both in spec, and also mostly the same side-to-side.  You will need some special tooling to do this yourself, as shown on the Boxflyer videos.  But, without any special tooling, and only removing the lowest body panel, you can remove your valve covers and visually inspect your cam profiles to confirm that they are not wearing improperly.  Be sure to use a torque wrench to reinstall your valve covers.

 

If you really want to lure Boxflyer to your garage, you’ll need to change the bait.  Try rhubarb cake instead of beer.

 

Cap

[AndyS]

On 9/5/2020 at 2:13 PM, Boxflyer said:

Just 2 days ago, I updated all 6 videos with more detailed timeline references so you can jump directly to a specific area of interest.

The links to the files have also been updated and the Hi-Rez .jpg files to be able to print your own Boxflyer Board for keeping your panel screws organized are available.

 

My goal with these videos was to help folks learn about these WetHead bikes and understand how to do the basic 12k/20km service on their own.

 

R1200RTW 12k Miles/20k KM Service

 

 

Hi Boxflyer, thanks for the video.

Does this single video replace the 6 previous videos?

 

Thanks

[Boxflyer]

Hi Andy,

No it's just a lot easier to go to a specific area of interest in the 6 videos and review what you need now instead of viewing over 2hrs of video trying to find just what you wanted.

Enjoy…Boxflyer

 

1/6  R1200RTW 12K Mile/20K KM Service Part 1/6

––– Contents of this Video ––––––––––––

0:00 Chris Intro

0:45 Video Series List by Part Index

1:25 Part 1 Intro

1:50 Oil change Overview/Philosophy

2:10 Part 1 Tools

3:10 Boxflyer Boards (Updated and Downloadable File in Description)

4:49 WetHead Torque Sheet (Updated and Downloadable File in Description)

5:22 Oil Change Start

5:40 Bungee Net Panel Hangers

9:38 Body Panel Removal for Air Filter Service

 

2/6  R1200RTW 12K Mile/20K KM Service  Part 2/6

–––Contents of this Video––––––––––––

0:00 Airbox 

3:57  Body Panel Reinstallation

10:38  Oil Filter and Drain Plug Reinstallation

13:04  Coolant Weep Hole and Reservoir Check

13:53  Muffler Removal and Exhaust Flap Check, Rear Wheel Remove

15:46  Final Drive and Spline Service

 

3/6  R1200RTW 12K Mile/20K KM Service  Part 3/6

–––Contents of this Video––––––––––––

0:00  Final Drive Oil Fill and Paralever Front Boot Details

5:28  Rear Brake Pad Service

13:34  Brake Fluid Test and ABS Pump Purge with GS-911

18:45  Rear Wheel and Muffler Install

 

4/6  R1200RTW 12K Mile/20K KM Service  Part 4/6

––– Contents of this Video ––––––––––––

0:00  Introduction

0:19  Valve Cover Removal to access Valves and Cams

3:49  LH Cam Timing Adjustment

13:40  Torque Wrench use with Adaptors Description

15:03  Timing Trigger Install/Adjustment

16:40  LH Valve Clearance Check

17:56  Valve Clearance Check Worksheet

20:43  Tensioner Tool Removal and Original Cam Chain Tensioner Install

21:25 LH Reassembly To-Do List

 

5/6  R1200RTW 12K Mile/20K KM Service  Part 5/6

––– Contents of this Video ––––––––––––

0:00  Introduction

0:31  RH Cylinder Disassembly for Cam Timing Check

3:18  RH Valve Clearance Check

3:44  RH Cams and Bearing Block Removal

5:08  Valve Shim Removal/Measurement 

6:35. RH Cam and Bearing Block Reinstall

9:00  Tool Removal and Reinstall RH Parts

10:44  Valve Clearance Check without "Special Tools"

18:55  Alternate Method of Cam Replacement Indexing

 

6/6  R1200RTW 12K Mile/20K KM Service  Part 6/6

––– Contents of this Video ––––––––––––

0:00  Introduction

0:25  Engine Oil Fill

3:14  GS-911 Service Reminder Reset

8:20  Final Body Panel Replacement

9:45  Boxflyer Boards Shop Aid Discussion

[AndyS]

Hi Boxflyer, thanks for the information. Thanks too for the time and effort you put into making the videos. 

Could I be as bold as to make a suggestion though. It would be good if the videos had either a revision number or release date so that end users are aware that if they have 2 videos, they know which is the most current.

 

Thanks again.

 

Andy

[Boxflyer]

Andy,

Once a YouTube video is published, it's difficult to really change the original content…you can change some of the pop-up boxes, and embedded links that are within YT Studio, but these are the original videos from Jan 2019.  If I did change a specific videos content, then the new uploaded video would have a different URL link and all the comments and description would start over as well.

 

Now, the Description Section, or "Show More" that opens up all the Timeline Info, Links to files you might need and Links to Tools/Consumables and photos, can be updated and I try to emphasize some of those "UPDATE" items when I either find a BMW revision (like having 65Nm torque for 3 of the cams, but 60Nm for the EX cam with the timing trigger), or when I have made an error or "misspeak" some critical info.

 

I'm in the grueling process of making more YouTube content…I need a camera operator that understands the subject at hand to focus/zoom shots on the bike (sorry, my Wife tries…but it's difficult for her).  COVID-19 has precluded my travel up to Canada to work with Chris on these next videos. 

I'm in work on RT Battery Replacement, Wheel Change after Tire Mounting, and the biggest project of all is a 6 Part Series covering ALL the FARKLES I've added to my 2016RT…some good, some bad.

 

I'm also desperate to get my hands on someone that lives close to me to do a dedicated R1250RT  Valve Service and Cam Timing Video…I have all the tools, know how to do the 12k/20km service and would perform this complete service at zero charge if they supply the consumables!

 

Anyone close to RI that would like this service done, and could spare their bike for a couple of days so I can film, please contact me via PM and we can work this out!

PM please!

 

Thanks,

Boxflyer

 

 

[LAF]

Anyone who has a 1250 and can meet Brads request should take the offer.  I can guarantee you will not find a better person to work on your BMW and to have your 1250 done with a valve check and a cam timing check is priceless!  Especially if you have a newer one to get the valves checked and the cam timing checked on a new bike is a real opportunity!

 

Brad where did you find the torque for the cam position sensor cam, and is that a 1200, or 1250, or both thing?

[Boxflyer]

Hi Lee,

The new values for the Cam bolt torque were issued in a BMW R1200GS|ADV|RT WC DVD

 MAX BMW DVD

This DVD is updateable and will keep you up to date on any manufacturers changes.

[LAF]

2 minutes ago, Boxflyer said:

Hi Lee,

The new values for the Cam bolt torque were issued in a BMW R1200GS|ADV|RT WC DVD

 MAX BMW DVD

This DVD is undateable and will keep you up to date on any manufacturers changes.

Thanks Brad.