Greetings fellow “oilheads”!

[Fabreezai]

Just found out that Im an oilhead! Awesome!
Im continuing post from the introduction section. So here goes:

I am a self proclaimed mechanic (Only for myself/hobby) worked On many engines on cars, boats, trucks, motorcycles, tractors, mowers, etc. Im particularly fond of 2 stroke engines. I have a couple of bikes now, both are Japanese. I have a small shop with a bike lift and Mr. Snap-on man is my drug dealer.

 

Enter my 97’ BMW  R1100R (ABS). Whole new ball of wax for me! Engines are engines overall but fuel injection and ABS is not something Im familiar with. I did all the basic stuff since it was sitting so long. Final drive, transmission, engine oil, New air and oil filter, front and rear brake fluid, new tires are on the way.

 

Now, the fuel system...... The tank, yes that tank, the same tank I took off the bike,  Tank that holds fuel, aka “fuel tank”...... 🤦‍♂️

The ethanol that was in the fuel, reeked Havoc on the inside of the tank.  

😔

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Fabreezai said:

Just found out that Im an oilhead! Awesome!
Im continuing post from the introduction section. So here goes:

I am a self proclaimed mechanic (Only for myself/hobby) worked On many engines on cars, boats, trucks, motorcycles, tractors, mowers, etc. Im particularly fond of 2 stroke engines. I have a couple of bikes now, both are Japanese. I have a small shop with a bike lift and Mr. Snap-on man is my drug dealer.

 

Enter my 97’ BMW  R1100R (ABS). Whole new ball of wax for me! Engines are engines overall but fuel injection and ABS is not something Im familiar with. I did all the basic stuff since it was sitting so long. Final drive, transmission, engine oil, New air and oil filter, front and rear brake fluid, new tires are on the way.

 

Now, the fuel system...... The tank, yes that tank, the same tank I took off the bike,  Tank that holds fuel, aka “fuel tank”...... 🤦‍♂️

The ethanol that was in the fuel, reeked Havoc on the inside of the tank.  

😔

 

 

Evening  Fabreezai

 

Pretty common on a lined steel tank that has been stored long term with old fuel in it.

 

My guess is the fuel pump & pump pass though assembly are just as bad. Might even have totaled fuel injectors. 

 

A used tank from E-Bay, complete with fuel pump assembly & pump  (if you can find one) is the best/easiest repair.

 

Otherwise you can work your tail off trying to get all that rust, corrosion, old tank liner, etc cleaned up (I usually use electrolysis method as that works pretty good) but a handful of old bolts & nuts with some small stones mixed in, then some solvent (or lye) in the tank with the bolts & nuts. Then bungee cord to your tractor wheel or ATV & mow the lawn a few times, that  can break a lot of that crud free.

 

Once you have it squeaky clean inside (like clean enough to eat out of) then you can re-apply a new tank liner (Red Cote or something similar).

 

Probably E-Bay (or maybe Beemer Boneyard  for a new pump assembly & pump/strainer/ filter/ & definitely new hoses. 

 

Remember the hoses inside the fuel tank are special (expensive)  as they must be high pressure & fuel submersible (both inside & outside). 

[Mrclubike]

The local Airhead guys have made a rotisserie to mount the tank into for agitation 

Like DR said put your cleaning solution in with some screws

Mount it up in the rotisserie  and let it eat

Good luck with finding a good used tank

Make sure the seller describes the condition inside the bottom of the tank looking thru the fuel pump hole

They like to only show the filler that usually looks Good  compared to the bottom

You will also have to expect some dents

I had the same problem you had and was very lucky to find a very good tank for $300 USD

The used replacement had a few small dents ,was dusty and had some dead bugs in it

[Fabreezai]

Thanks DR and Mr for the replies. Gonna try and clean up this tank this weekend, been doing a bunch of research on it. Let you know how that goes.

 

happy 4th!!

 

[Fabreezai]

Sorry its been a bit. After a bunch of reading research, I got the tank all cleaned out of old and relined with Caswell epoxy. Cleaned all the fuel lines/regulator, new fuel pump and filter, got injectors cleaned/ flow tested, re-assembled and she fired right up! 😊

 

theres a oil leak at the filler cap but from what I read, that seems to be common, ordered new oil filler kit. Other than that it runs fantastic! I’ve put about 100 miles on it since I got it running and can’t get enough of it. Looking forward to my first “tour” on it.

 

In my reading endeavors, I read about a recall involving the harness by the steering headset. I took the time to repair any potential wire issues and re-routed looms so not to get damaged. While inspecting the rest of the harness I noticed 2 wire harness connections behind the right hand side cover not plugged into anything, are these for a accessory that my bike did not come with? 🤔🤷‍♂️
 

thanks guys/gals!

 

 

[Mrclubike]

The extra plug you speak of is probably from the charcoal canister valve that has been removed along with the charcoal canister

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, Fabreezai said:

 

While inspecting the rest of the harness I noticed 2 wire harness connections behind the right hand side cover not plugged into anything, are these for a accessory that my bike did not come with? 🤔🤷‍♂️
 

thanks guys/gals!

Morning  Fabreezai

 

You say right hand side?  (footbrake side)-- There isn't much on the righthand side that isn't used for something important.

 

What country is your motorcycle from??????   This can make a difference on what wire harness connectors are used. 

 

Now if it was the LEFTHAND side (shifter side) there is a purge solenoid wire connector & an idle trim potentiometer connector that are only used is some countries. 

 

So if it really is on the righthand side (foot brake side) then post a picture of the unused harness connections & we will try to identify them for you . Also tell us what country that motorcycle is from.

[Fabreezai]

Guess pics are worth a thousand words! 🤦‍♂️ My bad.

 

one is a 2 pin, the other a 3pin connector, they were tye-wrapped Just above helmet lock, behind cover.

[dirtrider]

21 minutes ago, Fabreezai said:

Guess pics are worth a thousand words! 🤦‍♂️ My bad.

 

one is a 2 pin, the other a 3pin connector, they were tye-wrapped Just above helmet lock, behind cover.

 

 

 

Evening  Fabreezai

 

The pictures help but not enough. 

 

Has that motorcycle been apart before?  If so those might be the left hand side purge solenoid & idle trim pot connectors.

 

Otherwise we need wire colors on all the wires going to those connectors and/or you will have to verify if all is connected & working OK.  

 

So-- is the temperature gauge working on your dash RID? (verified oil temp is connected)

 

Is the IAT (Intake Air Temp) connector plugged into the sensor on top of your air filter box? (can't tell from the picture but is sort of looks plugged in)

 

Are the 2 pin & 3 pin connectors still there under the left hand side cover? 

[Fabreezai]

I believe I am the 3rd owner of this bike that I know of, Not sure if its been apart.

there is no temp gauge on my bike. Will have to check under the left hand side for other connectors, I dont remember any there. I will check again in a couple of hours when Im back in shop, I will get the colors of the wires as well.

[dirtrider]

4 minutes ago, Fabreezai said:

I believe I am the 3rd owner of this bike that I know of, Not sure if its been apart.

there is no temp gauge on my bike. Will have to check under the left hand side for other connectors, I dont remember any there. I will check again in a couple of hours when Im back in shop, I will get the colors of the wires as well.

Morning Fabreezai

 

When you look at the wire colors get the main color as well as the color of the stripe that is on the wire (ie green with a yellow stripe, etc)

[Fabreezai]

Primary and secondary colors, got it.

[Fabreezai]

Pic 1:

2pin connector

#1- green w/white

#2- green w/blue

 

pic 2:

3pin connector

#1- brown w/yellow

#2- white w/black

#3- green w/yellow

 

both wires originate from the shifter side and are routed to brake pedal side behind cover.

[dirtrider]

28 minutes ago, Fabreezai said:

Pic 1:

2pin connector

#1- green w/white

#2- green w/blue

 

pic 2:

3pin connector

#1- brown w/yellow

#2- white w/black

#3- green w/yellow

 

both wires originate from the shifter side and are routed to brake pedal side behind cover.

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Fabreezai

 

 Both of those connectors were originally on the L/H  (shifter side) of the motorcycle.  At one time someone has re-routed them over to the right hand side  (I have no idea on why they would do that other than a mistake)

 

2pin connector===

#1- green w/white===

#2- green w/blue====   

____This connector goes to (went to) the emission  purge valve (breather valve), it is only used if the motorcycle has an evaporation  canister still on the motorcycle & it is still active. (mainly used on USA & some Canadian motorcycles). 

 

pic 2:

3pin connector

#1- brown w/yellow

#2- white w/black

#3- green w/yellow=====

____This connector is used (was used)  for the idle trim potentiometer (Co potentiometer),  this was used only on non o2 sensor equipped motorcycles to set the idle Co output trim. It is not used on o2 sensor motorcycles. 

 

What country was your 1100R first sold in? 

 

 

[Fabreezai]

I dont know, I think it was originally purchased in colorado as the key chain that came with it is from a dealership there. Only a guess on my part. Is there anyway to find out from the vin/engine #’s? Or get a “car fax” on it?

[dirtrider]

8 minutes ago, Fabreezai said:

I dont know, I think it was originally purchased in colorado as the key chain that came with it is from a dealership there. Only a guess on my part. Is there anyway to find out from the vin/engine #’s? Or get a “car fax” on it?

Afternoon Fabreezai

 

There are ways to track it down by VIN but it is a current USA motorcycle & importation into the US is difficult/expensive due to import  emission requirements so it is probably a US motorcycle.

 

Therefore it more than likely came with an o2 sensor, catalytic converter, & an emission canister.    

 

So the 3 pin connector was not used (never used) & the 2 pin connector was used with the original  purge solenoid (breather valve)  but if the black evap can is missing from the R/H rear of the frame then the purge solenoid is not currently required or needed. 

[Fabreezai]

Thank you so much for all the information! Great site. Only thing right now that I have to do is the neutral switch, which is behind the swing arm so Ill wait till I have to do the clutch and change it then. For now I have it jumped. Unless you can enlighten me to some special tool/way to do it without having to remove the final drive? 

[Fabreezai]

Well after the mention of clutch in the previous post..... Murphys law.

 

noticed it having a slip today. I adjusted the cable as much as I could, will have to take it back out and see how it is. Anyways a clutch, a neutral switch and what else should I be changing “while Im in there”?

also, where is the best place to get clutch kits In your guys/gals opinion?

 

thanks again!

[dirtrider]

6 hours ago, Fabreezai said:

Well after the mention of clutch in the previous post..... Murphys law.

 

noticed it having a slip today. I adjusted the cable as much as I could, will have to take it back out and see how it is. Anyways a clutch, a neutral switch and what else should I be changing “while Im in there”?

also, where is the best place to get clutch kits In your guys/gals opinion?

 

thanks again!

Morning  Fabreezai

 

On the old BMW 1100 bikes you almost have to take them apart before trying to figure out what needs replacing as a sipping clutch could just be a worn out clutch pack, or could be indicating an oil leak in the engine rear main seal, or in the  transmission front input shaft seal (or both).  

 

On where to get the clutch parts-- that depends on what you need, what your motorcycle has in it now, how much research in figuring out what need.

 

The 1100 clutch pack is kind of a mess to deal with due to a running change in some parts with the pre/post break date being 12/97. There was even a (possible) clutch change if the motorcycle had clutch work during it's warranty period. 

 

Working with a local BMW dealer is the easy way to figure out what you have now & get the correct parts (but is very expensive).

 

You can also work with someone like Beemer Boneyard as they are also very helpful when it comes to things like this.  

 

It's also a BIG help on the old BMW's if you take them apart first  then can find existing parts numbers on the old clutch parts as knowing what you have in it now makes it easier to get it right.

 

  

[Fabreezai]

Thanks DR-

 

my bike is a 97 r1100r so its at that transition point. The bike is bone stock and there are no oil leaks anywhere im under the assumption that there is a single clutch plate on this scooter, not a multi plate set up. Gonna tackle the replacement in the winter if this clutch will make it.