ESA suspension not working

[greenrider]

I can change from sport, normal, to comfort. But I can't change the suspension. It's on the center stand,key on but nothing shows in the instrument panel when I push the button.

 

GS911 shows a fault code I can't erase.

And I can't calibrate because of some signal missing.

Any help is appreciated

 

Fault Codes : 1 | 41795 : Error in Calibration data for ESA Currently present : YES Symptom : Implausible signal or value Engine warning light (MIL) : NO Frequency count : 1 Logistic(Healing) count : 40 Fault Code History : Unknown  

[dirtrider]

17 hours ago, greenrider said:

I can change from sport, normal, to comfort. But I can't change the suspension. It's on the center stand,key on but nothing shows in the instrument panel when I push the button.

 

GS911 shows a fault code I can't erase.

And I can't calibrate because of some signal missing.

Any help is appreciated

 

Fault Codes : 1 | 41795 : Error in Calibration data for ESA Currently present : YES Symptom : Implausible signal or value Engine warning light (MIL) : NO Frequency count : 1 Logistic(Healing) count : 40 Fault Code History : Unknown  

Morning   greenrider

 

You probably have a calibration error or an ESA issue but is your engine running? Manual says it needs to be for suspension height adjustment. 

 

Also, if on the center stand then make sure the rear wheel isn't turning (sometimes will turn slowly in neutral)--- ESA susp height won't work if vehicle is moving. (a spinning rear wheel might make the system think that you are moving)

[greenrider]

I had the motor running and made sure the wheel wasn't turning.

 

When I try to calibrate it says-

Invalid response was obtained from vehicle.

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, greenrider said:

I had the motor running and made sure the wheel wasn't turning.

 

When I try to calibrate it says-

Invalid response was obtained from vehicle.

Morning   greenrider

 

Not exactly sure what to tell you.  It might just be a stuck or frozen up rear adjuster that won't move therefore no position movement feedback.  

 

I just looked for service bulletins on your rear strut & couldn't find anything (but I don't have access to all the available service bulletins for your bike). 

 

On the 1200 hexhead I could usually free up a stuck rear strut adjuster by spraying in penetrating  oil on the adjuster ring & moving parts then powering it up directly from the battery  in both up & down direction. Once I got it moving it would then move on it's own from the main control. 

 

I haven't had to address a CamHead (ESA II) rear strut  yet so I really can't advise on how to do that (I would need a CamHead handy to figure it out.

 

You might swing by your BMW dealer to see if they have had any similar issues on the CamHead, & if so, how they handled the problem. 

 

Or if in no hurry then maybe try spraying in some penetrating oil on the rear strut adjuster moving parts (not into the actuator) just the external spring seat movable area. Then ride the motorcycle & keep trying the adjustment. (or use you GS-911 to try to calibrate it). It might need a battery disconnect for while to get a rear strut calibration re-set. 

[greenrider]

Disconnecting the battery didn't work.

 

Being it can read code because there is a single missing. Could it be discontinued somewhere? Or would a broken wire give that message. 

 

I'm just thinking if wiring is all in tack why would it say signal missing if it is frozen. 

Just thinking out loud

 

[dirtrider]

17 minutes ago, greenrider said:

Disconnecting the battery didn't work.

 

Being it can read code because there is a single missing. Could it be discontinued somewhere? Or would a broken wire give that message. 

 

I'm just thinking if wiring is all in tack why would it say signal missing if it is frozen. 

Just thinking out loud

 

Evening  greenrider

 

That no-signal could go either way. It could be an open circuit but it could also indicate no movement feed back received. 

 

I might be that it requests XX amount of movement but the strut spring seat doesn't move so it doesn't see the proper distance  movement feedback from the strut.   

[greenrider]

I have verified that the shock still works. The BMW dealer was kind enough to tell me which wires to energize and I was able cycle it in and out.

But I still have the same problem. 

Can't calibrate or delete the fault.

[dirtrider]

On 7/10/2020 at 1:00 PM, greenrider said:

I have verified that the shock still works. The BMW dealer was kind enough to tell me which wires to energize and I was able cycle it in and out.

But I still have the same problem. 

Can't calibrate or delete the fault.

Morning  greenrider

 

I'm not sure what you are dealing with on this.

 

It might be the strut position sensor isn't outputting any, or not outputting correct,  info on strut position, or the strut is working OK but the info isn't getting to the correct module, or it is somehow locked out & your GS-911 can't clear it. 

 

I'm kind of at a loss on what your next move should be. 

 

Maybe try posting your problem on the HexCode forum to see if anyone has any ideas.   https://www.hexcode.co.za/

 

 

[lather]

I have a new to me 2013 R!200RT and the ESA is not working. I can get the display to cycle from sport to normal and comfort and the load indicators as well but the suspension does not change. It seems to be stuck in sport. I do not have a GS911 so no info about codes. I see dirt rider suggested trying to get it unstuck " by spraying in penetrating  oil on the adjuster ring & moving parts then powering it up directly from the battery  in both up & down direction". I would like to try this but don't know which wires and where to find them. Can you help me with that greenrider?

[dirtrider]

16 hours ago, lather said:

I have a new to me 2013 R!200RT and the ESA is not working. I can get the display to cycle from sport to normal and comfort and the load indicators as well but the suspension does not change. It seems to be stuck in sport. I do not have a GS911 so no info about codes. I see dirt rider suggested trying to get it unstuck " by spraying in penetrating  oil on the adjuster ring & moving parts then powering it up directly from the battery  in both up & down direction". I would like to try this but don't know which wires and where to find them. Can you help me with that greenrider?

Evening  lather

 

Sport, normal, and comfort are damping settings not the spring pre-load (load setting).

 

The preload (load setting) is  shown as 1 helmet, 1 helmet+1suitcase, or 2 helmets. (this setting moves the  spring seat)

 

Your spring seat won't move during the sport, normal, and comfort setting changes.

 

Look in your riders manual for how the suspension settings work & are adjusted.   (look around pages 65 & 66)

 

 

[6speedTi]

I remember when I first played around with the settings on my 2012rt while I was riding on the highway with an occasional dip and bump in the road I could feel a subtle difference in rebounding. 

Sport was stiffer and comfort did bounce a bit more but all in all the settings were not drastic. With 1 up or 2 up it I hardly noticed a change. So settings are minimal in ride and feel. You do notice a difference. I don't normally ride 2 up so I'm guessing it will change your rebounding affect as well. 

[lather]

Thanks, I was a bit confused. I will study the manual and try again.

[lather]

Ok, after reading the instructions again I have verified the preload adjustment was working. I was not waiting long enough. And after a two day 400 mile trip the the damping seems satisfactory except on real big bumps in the road. A bit harsher than my Concours 14 which has Ohlins.

[pwillikers]

Which wires do you energize (with 12V?) (in the electrical connector closest to the shock) to validate that preload is actually changing on an ESA II rear shock?

 

Which wires do you energize (with 12V?) (in the electrical connector closest to the shock) to validate that damping is actually changing on both an ESA II front and rear shock?

 

Thanks.

[greenrider]

Below is what he had told me.

 

I assume you have the mechanical aptitude to work through this.
You will need to locate the wires that go to the motor part of the ESA. Pull the connectors apart and locate the blue/gray and blue/yellow wires. They should be larger than the other wires going to the ESA. Using a couple jumper wires from the battery, connect one of those ESA wires to positive and touch the ground to the other wire. You will get a spark but you should hear the motor running. Now reverse the wires and bump it in the other direction

[greenrider]

Because it's an expensive part to get it to work I connected two wires to the plug and when I need the suspension changed from traveling with my wife to commuting to work I lift the seat and touch the wires to battery. It needs to be quite so I can hear motor and hear when its at its limit.

[pwillikers]

Thanks Greenrider for the info on the ESA wiring.