My '02 1150RT Moneypit

[Brucifer1150]

Quote

Fools rush in where angels fear to tread,

but they get the best seats.

                             My Dad

 

tl;dr: Bought a 2002 R1150RT online with a dubious history.

 

 

When I moved to San Jose, CA in in 1997 for work, I took a spin on a BMW motorcickle and liked the torque-y feel of it. More of a Harley guy (my '87FXR was just a precursor to this bike), but I never forget the feel. Had a couple of Bimmers in the meantime, so a fan of German engineering. Been working a lot, so I wanted to reward myself with a bike, but there wasn't a lot of choice in my area for BMW, let alone deciding between R, RT, and GS.

So, I turned to EBay.

 

Budget was a factor since all the work was to get out of debt, and I liked the body style of the 1150's, so that narrowed the field. I have a bad habit of competitive bidding, which is not a good thing when looking at a "Starts and Runs" 70k miles bike. UHaul said $450 in shipping, so there is that. Did think I was going to be beaten out by a dollar at the end, but alas, no.

 

Paid the man, started working on the shipping: UHaul.Com is more of 'I got this here and I need it there' Craiglist-y style of business. I started in with the dedicated bikes shippers. HaulBikes.Com came back with $525 from Salt Lake City, UT door to Long Beach, MS door with about a 3-week lag. OK. Rocking now.

 

Let's just say that it was rough. At 70k on the clock, it was rode rough and put away wet. Several times.
 

Every single piece of plastic is damaged. Every. Single. Piece.

 

Scratches, yes. What bike that old wouldn't have them? Battle scars of the open road. The hole in the front fairing was a bit of a shock. The bubbling of the black parts of the windshield raising mechanism is strange.

 

 

It's a dark blue bike with pics taken in shadow, so a lot of these issues aren't prevalent. I guess people call it a 30/10 bike: looks good at 30 feet, but at 10 feet, you wish you back at 30.

It has braided brake lines, so I have that going for me.

 

Been spending more on plastic than I hoped for, but some donor parts were too good to pass up. Everything is scattered all over the garage and hopefully I will have some time to clean things up and get it back together. Actually, I was going to be more verbose on this, but Wifey is up and wanting Waffle House, so I'll be back when the laughing and head shaking is over with to throw out even more Tales From Beyond The Tupperware.

 

P.S. MirrorCowl is a pic of the mirror next to the replacement front cowl. Not sure if they were the same color at some time. MirrorPanel is the same mirror sitting next to one of the side panels off the bike. I should have time for better comparisons later today.

[bmwnomad]

Looks like someone took a sander to that windshield bracket. Possibly to reshape it?

 

Your ABS pump has been removed also.

[Claudio]

That's nasty.

 

I am currently selling my 2003 R1150RT here.  By comparison it is immaculate with 138,000 KMS (86,000 miles).  Always maintained perfectly and pro-actively renewed everything from the fuel pump/lines to brakes and suspension.  How someone has no regard for proper maintenance....sheesh.

[Selden]

It's depressing to read this story. You have already learned: NEVER buy a used motorcycle sight unseen unless you personally know and trust the seller. Even then it is a crap shoot.

 

After 2 years of trying, I sold my 1999 R1100RT to a neighbor last month. It had ~130,000 miles on it and had been meticulously maintained, with a 4 page spreadsheet to show everything that had been done to it since new. The buyer is happy and I am happy.  Since he lives practically next door, I told him that I would walk him through its first major service at ~135,000 miles.

[Paul De]

oof,  that had to smart when the bike was unloaded at your place.  Well now you have a hobby, but it isn't riding at the moment.  You might have to keep some expenditures off the books to avoid the wrath of your better half.   If it is mostly cosmetic, maybe go for a repaint of your favorite choice.  The R90S smoke paint scheme was one of my favorites...wonder how that might look on RT.  Trust is gone so no mater what seller told you, change oil in engine and drive train and hopefully no ugliness will be found.  Flush brake fluid and check valve lash as it prolly was not adjusted for a while.  The old boy will feel loved again.

[Brucifer1150]

On 6/20/2020 at 7:49 PM, Selden said:

It's depressing to read this story. You have already learned: NEVER buy a used motorcycle sight unseen unless you personally know and trust the seller. Even then it is a crap shoot.

 

After 2 years of trying, I sold my 1999 R1100RT to a neighbor last month. It had ~130,000 miles on it and had been meticulously maintained, with a 4 page spreadsheet to show everything that had been done to it since new. The buyer is happy and I am happy.  Since he lives practically next door, I told him that I would walk him through its first major service at ~135,000 miles.

 

Selden,

 

Some people smoke crack, some people are Cleveland Brown's fans, I buy used vehicles. We all have our hobbies.

 

As I said before, there wasn't a whole lot of local choice. Sounds fine overall, maybe some backfire on deceleration, didn't give it too much of a shakedown run when I got it. It's not going to be a a major highway cruiser, more of a 20 mile round trip to work moped. I probably could of bought a nicer bike from the start by the time I am done with this one, but I would of still had to tear through it, just not spending as much on plastic.

 

It made it 70k miles so far; it's either going to grenade in the next 100 miles or go another 70k.

[Brucifer1150]

On 6/20/2020 at 12:51 PM, bmwnomad said:

Looks like someone took a sander to that windshield bracket. Possibly to reshape it?

 

Your ABS pump has been removed also.

 

bmwnomad,

 

The front lip of it is/was curled under almost like it had melted. Sorry I didn't get a shot of the curl. Whatever the issue was, it only affected the exposed black parts of the plastic. The two windshield hold down strips had a similar bubbling effect. The title had a Key West, FL address on it, so it might of been some kind of crazy sun exposure over the years. That is why I think the mirrors are a funky color, too. I'm not sure of the factory colors for that year, but I have a feeling that it started off as a dark blue, then got the UV-ed out of it from the front. The whole bike is rough like it lived a tropical island lifestyle for a long time. Sun and salt air are not kind to anything without the proper daily maintenance. Windshield has tape marks where the For Sale sign was attached at some point in time. I'm going to see what my detail guy says about treating it like a headlight and seeing what sort of restoration he can do to it. Doesn't have to be perfect, but it will probably be cheaper than buying a new one.

 

Brakes work, so good. Still planning on flushing the lines. I was going back and forth on removing the ABS while I waited for shipment, reading all the pros and cons of taking it out. Solves that dilemma. Did mention to the insurance company that it doesn't have ABS just to CMA. Too bad there isn't an easy access to the spot or I could keep sandwiches in there.

[Brucifer1150]

On 6/20/2020 at 5:22 PM, Claudio said:

That's nasty.

 

I am currently selling my 2003 R1150RT here.  By comparison it is immaculate with 138,000 KMS (86,000 miles).  Always maintained perfectly and pro-actively renewed everything from the fuel pump/lines to brakes and suspension.  How someone has no regard for proper maintenance....sheesh.

 

Claudio,

I had an old Honda 550 Nightwing which I loved. Started every time and had no issues with it. Sold it to a guy I knew and the alternator crapped out after two weeks.

 

Once I get on top of this, it should be fine. Just a bit more flummoxing of the bits before I start riding. I'm kinda at the point of finishing up the current projects and just riding it for a while, then tear it apart again in the winter.

[Brucifer1150]

On 6/20/2020 at 9:45 PM, Paul De said:

oof,  that had to smart when the bike was unloaded at your place.  Well now you have a hobby, but it isn't riding at the moment.  You might have to keep some expenditures off the books to avoid the wrath of your better half.   If it is mostly cosmetic, maybe go for a repaint of your favorite choice.  The R90S smoke paint scheme was one of my favorites...wonder how that might look on RT.  Trust is gone so no mater what seller told you, change oil in engine and drive train and hopefully no ugliness will be found.  Flush brake fluid and check valve lash as it prolly was not adjusted for a while.  The old boy will feel loved again.

 

Paul De,

 

Yeah, the EBay pics and the actual bike are slightly different, but actually, once you know where to look, you can see a lot of the issues. MY FXR started off as an old CHP FXRP and I took everything off, added 6 degrees of rake to the front, powder coated the frame, new wheels, new forks.......I knew what the finished bike was going to look like, I just overspent on the way there. So I ran out of money and it just sat and got moved to several different states and then practically given away for far less of the parts and time into it.

 

This time around, I'm going to get some riding on it before all hope is lost. Fluids are a definite, fuel filter might wait till winter. Have new(er) handlebar controls for it, but they are the newer 'thin-pin' connectors and not the current 'big-pin' ones, so that swap-out may wait until I can figure out the best course of action. Was thinking of a Gemi chip, but that involves the tank.....charcoal filter is gone, but the lines could use some cleaning up. Going to see how LED turn signals go over, but that's about it for the time being. Have the BeemerBoneyard kit, so I have all the parts (minus quick disconnect which is another reason to hold off on that area).

[RogerC60]

1 hour ago, Brucifer1150 said:

Going to see how LED turn signals go over, but that's about it for the time being.

If your bike still has the OEM blinker "relay" your LED turn signals will hyperflash. Chris Harris has a video on his YouTube channel showing how to modify the electronics inside it to get rid of the hyperflash. I did this to my '03 R1150RT and am happy with the results.

[Paul De]

Yeah fuel filter is enough of a job that I timed the changes on my '99RT for the off season, for the most part that is Nov-Mar in these parts.  Because the Tupperware on 1100 & 1150 is so extensive, you really can overlook any painting of frame and even engine/transmission...if your get to that. 

 

Happy trails and post here often.

[Brucifer1150]

3 hours ago, Paul De said:

Yeah fuel filter is enough of a job that I timed the changes on my '99RT for the off season, for the most part that is Nov-Mar in these parts.  Because the Tupperware on 1100 & 1150 is so extensive, you really can overlook any painting of frame and even engine/transmission...if your get to that. 

 

Happy trails and post here often.

 

Paul De,

 

I think the Tupperscare is a tad overblown. PITA, yes, but nothing that can't be overcome.

 

Here is an EBay pic and ones from when I got it:

 

[Paul De]

Nice custom saddle, looks comfy.  Also, looks like you have Throttlemeister bar ends, with the throttle side working as a twist friction lock. The real beauty of the extensive Tupperware really good motor heat management away from rider and the still air pocket is pretty large.  At 70 MPH and above you can avoid getting too wet in a mild rain.

[NumbHands]

I remember that about my 1150RT. Would keep you dry if you kept moving at speed. Not so the 1200.

 

Michael

[Brucifer1150]

On 6/22/2020 at 2:11 PM, Paul De said:

Nice custom saddle, looks comfy.  Also, looks like you have Throttlemeister bar ends, with the throttle side working as a twist friction lock. The real beauty of the extensive Tupperware really good motor heat management away from rider and the still air pocket is pretty large.  At 70 MPH and above you can avoid getting too wet in a mild rain.

 

Paul De,

 

It's a Top Sellerie. Seems nice, but as fat as I am, that back saddle ridge presses me belly into the gas tank. I might try and find a OEM swap at a later point in time.

[Dave P]

Brucifer- I bought my 96 RT back in 2013 in person, 90k banged up but well maintained. Pretty cheap at the time. Everything worked and she ran nice. Several zip ties holding the bodywork together. Im pretty good with filler, fiberglass and paint, plus my office has a paint booth. Resprayed all (10 I think) body panels basecoat / clearcoat. Also painted the dashboard, one side case and side triangles black. Plastic doesn't rust! Love the shine after the clearcoat. Now at 122k, she runs, rides and looks nice. Dave

[Paul De]

15 hours ago, Brucifer1150 said:

It's a Top Sellerie. Seems nice, but as fat as I am, that back saddle ridge presses me belly into the gas tank. I might try and find a OEM swap at a later point in time.

Haha don't do it, there is a reason most RT's have aftermarket saddles.   Maybe send it in to the maker and get it modded as needed.  If you do chase down an OEM saddle, look for the optional comfort saddle version as it has worked well for some.   I would no be surprised that if you look up who on BMW's 1100/1150 design team that was responsible for the saddle, they would be a direct descendant of Marquis de Sade.

[Miguel!]

I have a BMW OEM Comfort saddle and pillion I'd like to sell as a pair if you are interested. I'll be listing it on the For Sale forum in the next week or so. If interested, let me know and I'll send you details. Miguel

[Brucifer1150]

11 hours ago, Paul De said:

Haha don't do it, there is a reason most RT's have aftermarket saddles.   Maybe send it in to the maker and get it modded as needed.  If you do chase down an OEM saddle, look for the optional comfort saddle version as it has worked well for some.   I would no be surprised that if you look up who on BMW's 1100/1150 design team that was responsible for the saddle, they would be a direct descendant of Marquis de Sade.

 

7 hours ago, Miguel! said:

I have a BMW OEM Comfort saddle and pillion I'd like to sell as a pair if you are interested. I'll be listing it on the For Sale forum in the next week or so. If interested, let me know and I'll send you details. Miguel

 

I'm holding off on seat swaps at the moment since I want to concentrate on getting the bike back on the road for now.

 

Also, if I get laid off from work, my new job will be getting back into shape so the belly might shrink down to where I can fit in the saddle again.


Current hair pulling is that I am swapping out the rear cowling covers and it seems that there is always one more bolt/screw to remove. I am trying to do one side, then the other so I have a reference point to keep track of things. THE ISSUE is the final screw that joins the two side covers together (just above the seat lock keyhole) looks like some funky-special-tool-to-remove screw. Looks like a dot with a single line coming off of it . Haven't had a chance to check the parts catalog to see if it IS wacky, but I'm sure it's nothing that Mr. Dremel can't handle. Once I get it apart, I'll replace it with something that humans can manipulate. And whose idea was it to have a nut-and-bolt in the middle of all those connections?

 

Once I get it all back together, I get to see how it likes LEDs in the rear, then on to the front cowling.

 

[Paul De]

Never took that hunk of plastic off.  If the 1150 is the same as the 1100, the rear tail light/turn indicator is a single unit that has 2 thumb nuts (round discs about the size of a nickel) securing it to the rear sub frame.  You don't have to take the rear tail piece off at all to access the tail light assembly.

 

Haha.  My gut has been getting trimmed down in the last couple months, so now if I do a wheelie the front wheel goes higher before I hit the wheelie stop indicator on the gas tank...of course that isn't really an option on a R1100RT

[Brucifer1150]

UPDATE:

 

Got the back end all back together. The new side panels are black, but it's not that noticeable and you won't see much of them once the bags are back on. Also, swapped out the side luggage rack arms with the new(er) ones since they didn't look as sun-beaten as the old ones.  There are some plastic 90-degree clips that I should of replaced, but that's for another time. The black side covers don't have to be installed right away.

 

Installed LED's on all rear lighting and they are BRIGHT and working normally. Swapped the headlight into the new fairing. The new LED fog lights should be here today and, with a little luck, correct-pinned handlebar switches will be here tomorrow, so I will be able to re-assemble the front of the bike and be able to ride it around to get the fluids changed out. Removed all the 'clip bolts' off the old fairing before tossing it. I think they can be used where they are missing on the side fairings. Also, took off the mirror mount bolts and plates if, for some reason, someone wants them.

 

Today is the left side cam tensioner upgrade/replacement. Might have to do a quick flea market run to find cheap 17mm and 15mm wrenches to modify.

At some point in time I will have to list the 'Thin-Pin' switches on EBay to offset the recent purchase. Would be a good time to list my FXR manuals.

[Tush]

Sounds like you are making great progress.  Should be riding soon.  
 

Cheers

Tush

[Brucifer1150]

Upgraded left side cam tensioner installed. Fun Fact: Skosh more room when on the side stand than the center. Got a racket in there and with the help of my Really-Big-Flathead-Screwdriver, I was able to compress and install it. Downside was the throttlebody o-ring got to moving, so the new one should be here Friday.

 

The switches were tape-rapped to some other wiring, but I got it all off and the old ones are outta there. Now looking for black harness tape to cover the 2nd-go EBay switches ('03 Big-Pinned). Did a test run and everything seems to be fine for final installation.

 

Any suggestions for cloth/harness tape?

[Brucifer1150]

Hello again, True Believers!

 

O-ring in place, intake tube Windexed and all clamps, clamped.

 

Pulled black, vinyl tape off harness, Goof-off'ed it, cleaned that off and wrapped in cloth tape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075HY7VL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Installed, zip-tied and the fairing is back on. Tomorrow, I should get the seats and mirrors back on to ride around for a bit, then start in on fluid changes.

[Tush]

Excellent.  Getting closer. 
 

Cheers

Tush

[Brucifer1150]

Went to change the fluids. Everything was clear! They changed everything before they sent it to me. Oh well, it's experience. I didn't change the filter because (A) my BeamerBoneyard filter wrench wouldn't fit, (B) it was probably a new filter anyways, (C) it's hot as all get out and the sweat was getting in my eyes. Did end up overfilling the engine oil, but the Gargler came back with changing the filter should drop the level down enough to see in the sight glass. Installed the plate under the windshield and set the clock. Lubed the key lock switches and such (easier to take the seats off now). Raised the seat level so my belly isn't crushed against the tank. It's been roughly 8 years since riding, so it's taking a bit to get used to it, let alone a new bike. Wrote Gemi on FB about a chip and haven't heard anything back yet, but want to ride it a bit before taking the tank off (draining it as well as getting to enjoy the ride). Might check with the detailer about the windshield. Might install the tupperware for the time being. Not sure.

 

Still enjoying having the bike though.

[Brucifer1150]

Starting on gathering parts for the fuel filter swap. Ordered the stainless U-tube piece and though I wasn't planning on getting any more plastic at the moment, I think I got a good deal on those black, triangular pieces that go in front of the saddle bags. Good way to hide the rusty frame. Need to order the chromed fuel disconnect parts, but the plastic blew the budget for the week and I still need to ride around for a bit to get more fuel out of the tank. Seems like every other day there is a thunderstorm.

 

Seems to run good. Getting used to how it handles. Detailer is still working on the windshield. Bit of a whine when going down the road. Don't know if it's natural, but seems to go away when I pull the clutch in. Still backfiring when letting off the throttle quickly. Probably going to back the throttle body screws out all the way and check for cleanliness. Still need to check valve clearance and change spark plugs (once again, probably new anyways).

[jeffyjeff]

Thanks for the update.  Keep us posted.

How do you plan to dress up the forks?

[Brucifer1150]

2 hours ago, jeffyjeff said:

Thanks for the update.  Keep us posted.

How do you plan to dress up the forks?

 

jeffyjeffjeffjeff,

 

Traditionally, it's with lipstick.

 

Honestly, not sure I'm going to do anything about them in the near future. It's like if I (Heaven forbid!) do a clutch replacement. I have to take the rear subframe off to get at everything and there is spotty surface rust all along it. I'm not going to strip it down and powdercoat it because it would probably end up costing more than the bike is worth. Even if I found a set of forks that were decent for a good price, I'm not sure I would tear everything apart to replace them. Right now I just want to get the tupperware back on and ride it for a while.

Like most women that spend too much time in Key West, I think her glory days are gone.
 

 

[Brucifer1150]

Got my windshield back. It isn't perfect, but then again, neither is is bike. Have ordered some spacers to fit in the holes.

Also, replaced all fuses with new ones. While they and the relays were out, they got a light coating of dielectric grease.

 

Down to two bars on the fuel gauge. Pretty soon I'll know if the yellow fuel indicator works. I have the brass quick disconnects in process, so I should be tackling the fuel assembly soon.

 

The only major thing left to do is alternator belt and valve adjustment. Little afraid of the adjustment, but maybe that will clear some of the deceleration backfiring.

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Brucifer1150 said:

 

The only major thing left to do is alternator belt and valve adjustment. Little afraid of the adjustment, but maybe that will clear some of the deceleration backfiring.

Morning  Brucifer1150

 

A valve adjustment probably won't have any effect on dropped throttle post-fire popping out of the exhaust. That is usually from either an exhaust air leak, or from a non stock exhaust system, or even from an improper TPS adjustment that changes the dropped  throttle fuel cut-off point.

[Brucifer1150]

On 8/4/2020 at 6:12 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning  Brucifer1150

 

A valve adjustment probably won't have any effect on dropped throttle post-fire popping out of the exhaust. That is usually from either an exhaust air leak, or from a non stock exhaust system, or even from an improper TPS adjustment that changes the dropped  throttle fuel cut-off point.

 

 

Evening DR,

Could be an exhaust leak since the whole system is somewhat rough in shape. It looks like the internal baffling might be rusting out, but I haven't put a flashlight in there. I think everything is stock. How does one go about adjusting the TPS without breaking the bank? I found an app in Google Play:  https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.wgsoft.motoscan&hl=en 

 

I imagine that I would need some sort of connector for this, but haven't started looking for it just yet, because, wonder-of-wonders, I got my yellow fuel light after roughly 10 miles of no fuel bars. I think I am close enough to start taking the tank off and go after the fuel filter. I have my BB quick-disconnects, stainless U-tube, and the other BB fuel kit stuff. I'm still going back and forth on a Gemi chip and now would be a good time to do it, but I read ayes and naes as how effective it would be for me. Might hold off for the moment for budgetary reasons. It seems to be running better as time goes by and whether that is the SeaFoam or me becoming more used to the bike is yet to be seen.

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, Brucifer1150 said:

 

 

Evening DR,

Could be an exhaust leak since the whole system is somewhat rough in shape. It looks like the internal baffling might be rusting out, but I haven't put a flashlight in there. I think everything is stock. How does one go about adjusting the TPS without breaking the bank? I found an app in Google Play:  https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.wgsoft.motoscan&hl=en 

 

I imagine that I would need some sort of connector for this, but haven't started looking for it just yet, because, wonder-of-wonders, I got my yellow fuel light after roughly 10 miles of no fuel bars. I think I am close enough to start taking the tank off and go after the fuel filter. I have my BB quick-disconnects, stainless U-tube, and the other BB fuel kit stuff. I'm still going back and forth on a Gemi chip and now would be a good time to do it, but I read ayes and naes as how effective it would be for me. Might hold off for the moment for budgetary reasons. It seems to be running better as time goes by and whether that is the SeaFoam or me becoming more used to the bike is yet to be seen.

Morning  Brucifer1150

 

Have you done a fresh TPS re-learn on the motorcycle? -- If not then you should do that first. (if you need info on how to do this let me know)

 

The TPS is fairly easy to adjust using an ACCURATE digital voltmeter. you can make a set of break-out wires or just use small wire or even small pins to access the terminals. 

 

Next time you remove the L/H tupperware panel look at the TPS  on the throttle body to see if the paint index marks on the TPS screws look like they haven't ever been moved.

 

If you have an exhaust leak, or rusted out baffles in the muffler, then that popping will probably stay with you until the exhaust system is made leak free with good muffler baffling. 

 

If you chip that motorcycle then the dropped throttle  popping will probably get worse.  

[Brucifer1150]

On 8/7/2020 at 6:39 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning  Brucifer1150

 

Have you done a fresh TPS re-learn on the motorcycle? -- If not then you should do that first. (if you need info on how to do this let me know)

 

The TPS is fairly easy to adjust using an ACCURATE digital voltmeter. you can make a set of break-out wires or just use small wire or even small pins to access the terminals. 

 

Next time you remove the L/H tupperware panel look at the TPS  on the throttle body to see if the paint index marks on the TPS screws look like they haven't ever been moved.

 

If you have an exhaust leak, or rusted out baffles in the muffler, then that popping will probably stay with you until the exhaust system is made leak free with good muffler baffling. 

 

If you chip that motorcycle then the dropped throttle  popping will probably get worse.  

 

Evening DR

 

I've poked around a little about the TPS, but haven't had time to go in depth with it. (Old) Radio Shack is about as accurate as I can get with a voltmeter. I removed the screw pointed at in the first pic, cleaned it and the hole, lightly seated it and backed it out 1&3/4 turns. No change in RPM, which sits about 900 or so.

Tupperware is still off. Hopefully the alternator belt gets an eyeball this weekend. I was planning on changing the fuel filter, but after all the clean fluids that came out of the engine/tranny/rear-end AND having bright, shiny connectors on the fuel lines,  I am going to forego that operation for the moment.

I'm including end picks of my muffler. Needless to say, it's had better days.

 

What are your feelings on the 1200 injector conversion?

[dirtrider]

Morning   Brucifer1150

 

I've poked around a little about the TPS, but haven't had time to go in depth with it. (Old) Radio Shack is about as accurate as I can get with a voltmeter. -- You need an accurate voltmeter to properly set the TPS. If you use an inaccurate voltmeter you could easily make it worse than better. 

 

I removed the screw pointed at in the first pic, cleaned it and the hole, lightly seated it and backed it out 1&3/4 turns. No change in RPM, which sits about 900 or so.--- You also need to clean the air passage under the BBS (Big Brass Screw), when you said "cleaned the hole" is that JUST the hole or also the small internal passage at bottom of hole? 

     Try turning the screw in to see if the idle RPM goes down, if so then you do have idle control so maybe try backing both side BBS screws  out another 1/2 turn each.  

Tupperware is still off. Hopefully the alternator belt gets an eyeball this weekend. I was planning on changing the fuel filter, but after all the clean fluids that came out of the engine/tranny/rear-end AND having bright, shiny connectors on the fuel lines,  I am going to forego that operation for the moment.--- You should probably change out that worm drive hose clamp on the fuel hose (shown in photo #4) those as not safe as they dig into the hose over time then the hose can  come off therefore  spraying high pressure fuel everywhere. (you need to use a proper high pressure fuel injection hose  clamp like the one shown above it.

I'm including end picks of my muffler. Needless to say, it's had better days.--- Yes that degraded muffler will lead to popping & farting in the exhaust on deceleration. 

 

What are your feelings on the 1200 injector conversion?--- Cautiously good, they won't make a Ferrari out of a Pinto but can help very  slightly IF everything else is working correctly. Something like the 1200 injectors should be the VERY LAST thing that you do AFTER you get it running correctly on stock injectors. (like a next years project)

[Brucifer1150]

Morning DR

Thanks for following up on these things.

 

You need an accurate voltmeter to properly set the TPS. If you use an inaccurate voltmeter you could easily make it worse than better. 

I will be able to borrow a high-dollar Fluke for a while.

 

You also need to clean the air passage under the BBS (Big Brass Screw), when you said "cleaned the hole" is that JUST the hole or also the small internal passage at bottom of hole? Try turning the screw in to see if the idle RPM goes down, if so then you do have idle control so maybe try backing both side BBS screws  out another 1/2 turn each.  

'Cleaning' meant spraying some electrical cleaner into the vacated hole and wiping off the pointed tips of the screws. OK on the turning. I'll check to see if there is any idle change, then back out again to a total of 2.25 turns if there isn't any.

 

You should probably change out that worm drive hose clamp on the fuel hose (shown in photo #4) those as not safe as they dig into the hose over time then the hose can  come off therefore  spraying high pressure fuel everywhere. (you need to use a proper high pressure fuel injection hose  clamp like the one shown above it.

I actually have BB quick-disconnects with extra injector clamps. I'm guessing the procedure is to (A) Clamp off the up flow. (B) Measure out the needed gap to install dis-connects and remove said section of hose. (C) Install dis-connects in opposite M->F directions for ease of not confusing which line went were. I'll change everything over at that point.

 

Yes that degraded muffler will lead to popping & farting in the exhaust on deceleration. 

Are all rear mufflers the same on the RT? I see a lot of '04 ones out there. And of course, everyone on EBay shows the shiny chrome parts and never a shot of the exit hole.....

Cautiously good, they won't make a Ferrari out of a Pinto but can help very  slightly IF everything else is working correctly. Something like the 1200 injectors should be the VERY LAST thing that you do AFTER you get it running correctly on stock injectors. (like a next years project)

That's good and bad. Good that it saves me $175 bucks on something that won't be like adding rocket boosters on the bike. Bummer, because I wanted rocket boosters on the bike. I do like the 4-hole spray pattern and the half hour job it work take.

 

[Brucifer1150]

 

I thought the BB 24k Maintenance Kit came with a alternator belt.

 

Alas, alas, woe to me, it does not. The trouble with taking so long to get these things swapped out.

I will say that getting at the cover plate is a lot easier with the glove box out. I took the radio out out and have a standard one to go in it's place.

 

Got the new Max's grommet/spacer pieces in on the windshield, so there is that. Also, lubed up the latches, hinges and keyways on all the luggage (remnants of Key West I'm guessing). I am missing one locking tab on one case, the other has a latch hook that won't engage and the center one seems to be fine.

[Brucifer1150]

Hopefully there will be time enough to at least get the alternator belt on today.

In the meantime, I bought the Lubro-Moly from BB. How much do I use in the tranny and rear end if both are filled? I have a syringe to pull some out for room if needed.
 

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, Brucifer1150 said:

Hopefully there will be time enough to at least get the alternator belt on today.

In the meantime, I bought the Lubro-Moly from BB. How much do I use in the tranny and rear end if both are filled? I have a syringe to pull some out for room if needed.
 

 

Morning Brucifer1150

 

Personally I wouldn't put any of that  moly stuff in the final drive, the BMW 1150 final drive has no history of gear tooth wear (that is what that moly protects best) but does have a higher incidence of crown bearing failures. That moly additive can build up on the crown bearing balls therefore effecting bearing clearances. 

 

Now on the transmission it probably won't help much (again not much gear tooth wear issues)  but probably won't hurt it either as most bearings are sealed so just put the motorcycle on the side stand & squirt some in  through the filler plug hole. 

[Dave P]

Bruce- You can get a cheapo digital voltmeter at Harbor Freight for about 5 bucks. Maybe even free if you have a coupon or buy 2 packages of zip ties.

 

Just sayin... Dave

[Brucifer1150]

7 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Brucifer1150

 

Personally I wouldn't put any of that  moly stuff in the final drive, the BMW 1150 final drive has no history of gear tooth wear (that is what that moly protects best) but does have a higher incidence of crown bearing failures. That moly additive can build up on the crown bearing balls therefore effecting bearing clearances. 

 

Now on the transmission it probably won't help much (again not much gear tooth wear issues)  but probably won't hurt it either as most bearings are sealed so just put the motorcycle on the side stand & squirt some in  through the filler plug hole. 

 

Afternoon DR

 

OK. Just a dab will do ya in the tranny. Thanks.

 

2 hours ago, Dave P said:

Bruce- You can get a cheapo digital voltmeter at Harbor Freight for about 5 bucks. Maybe even free if you have a coupon or buy 2 packages of zip ties.

 

Just sayin... Dave

 

Afternoon Dave

 

I borrowed a fancy Fluke from a friend, but I'm not sure what to do with it. I also have an older Radio Shack multimeter from a bygone era as well as a hand-out one from Horror Fraught.

 

 

 

I did get the alternator belt on. Just need to set the tension and button it all back up.

[Brucifer1150]

How the time flies!

 

Buttoned up and got that clamp swapped out. Decided not to install the quick disconnects since I have the feeling that the fuel has been changed and why disturb everything. I will install them if/when it fails. Moly dabbed the tranny.

I go to install the Tupperware and either through rough handling or dogs, the minor crack in the left side is now nearly splitting the entire fairing. Prayed to The EBay Gods and got a grey left side fairing that seems all there for $200 to my door. Pricey, but still cheaper than a lot of my other options. I might get the right side and bottom on tonight to see how that goes. Possible hurricane Tuesday morning, so I won't be riding anyways. I did notice that most of the fairing choices tend to be of the left-side variety; I'm sure there is a reason for that. Will have to replace the right side at some point in time.

 

On a side note, I bought a cheap Walmart toolbox to keep all the extra crush washers, quick disconnects, spark plugs and such so they are not flying around the garage.

[Still CAL]

I'm keeping an eye on the MDOT cameras as the storm gets closer, on a similar forecast track as Katrina. We've got some signs on the beach in Biloxi and Gulfport that my daughter made for a Girl Scout project on sea turtles that take a beating when the water comes in. Stay safe, and if you see Jim Cantore on some street corner, invite him to go far, far away!

My wife's folk's home, three days after Katrina and her waves.

Standing on the roof of the in-law's house, one street over. Two unknown fatalities removed earlier this day. Roof in the foreground from someplace else.

[Brucifer1150]

18 hours ago, Still CAL said:

I'm keeping an eye on the MDOT cameras as the storm gets closer, on a similar forecast track as Katrina. We've got some signs on the beach in Biloxi and Gulfport that my daughter made for a Girl Scout project on sea turtles that take a beating when the water comes in. Stay safe, and if you see Jim Cantore on some street corner, invite him to go far, far away!

 

My wife's folk's home, three days after Katrina and her waves.

 

Standing on the roof of the in-law's house, one street over. Two unknown fatalities removed earlier this day. Roof in the foreground from someplace else.

 

 

Morning Still Cal,

 

Looks like she's hooking more to the right and something will probably pass right over us. Whether or not she's a Cat 2 by then is yet to be seen. We weren't here, but our house didn't flood during Katrina and it has gone through the 'Hurricane Retrofit Program' since then. No plans on leaving since the low level and having to transport 3 whiny dogs. I was planning on taking Tuesday off from work to take Wifey to a medical appointment, but if it gets cancelled, I see no point in going in.

 

Thank you for your concern. I post a post-storm comment if/when the it passes and power comes back.

[Brucifer1150]

Just like Christmas.

[Brucifer1150]

What a day.

 

Hung the new left side Tupperware. Everything slipped into place easily enough, but when I was trying to install the front fairing screw, the bike fell over. Didn't expect the side stand to hold the bike so center. Worse damage was breaking off part of the windshield.

Was planning on getting a taller windshield anyways....

 

Had issues with getting some of the bolts in since they were the aftermarket stainless ones. Didn't get the bottom cover on or attach the side to the shark fin. Other than that, it should be good to ride.

 

Other than the crack I found on the spindle holding the front brake caliper. I'm guessing that it won't be an issue.

 

This is the front tire as well as the back. I'll have to replace them at some point in the future, but it looks like I have a little bit of time.

That's all for the moment. Not sure when I will get to the hardware store to get the rest of the screws. Need to dig up that chart with the sizes. Took everything of value off the left side before it went in the trash. I have a vent, the kneepad thing, and that lower pad. Maybe try and sell them along with the handlebar controls to pay for a taller windshield.

 

At this point I have I believe at 794 color bike, with dark blue front fairing, grey left-side Tuppreware, and black rear side fairings. Not sure what color the right side will be once I get that.

 

OH! And rain predicted all week.
 

[Brucifer1150]

Oh, and the Moly stuff in the tranny seems to be working as to the feel of the shifting.

 

[Brucifer1150]

Dear Gentle Reader,

 

I was hoping to close out this thread with me, having finished all the nasty bits, riding off into the sunset. Alas, the road travels ever onward.

 

Did get a Cee Bailey windshield to replace the broken one. Only real marking that might mean something to someone was a MS-13 in the bottom middle. Deflects and looks a lot better than the one that came with the bike.

 

On the downside, rear tire had a hole in it which was only sealed with the Black Goo of a can of Fix-a-Flat. Got it plugged, but nope, gonna get a new tire because I don't know what else that Black Goo is holding together. AND why buy one tire when you can get TWO for TWICE the price? Ordered front and rear Shinko 009 Ravens, 'cuz you're in the Pink-O when you ride on Shinko. Should be here Friday in time to be shod on Saturday (or at least the rear one).

And I did get the lock out of the old panel and into the new glovebox. Pushed the pin out with a 2 or 3 mm allen and installing it was a combo of keeping some tumblers in place with the black ring and use of the key.

Here are some pics of the current livery. Won't be able to buy a right side panel for a while due to budget constraints, but I'll be keeping an eye out. I'll try and get a better pic of the old side mirror, the new, blue front fairing, and the grey side panel next time. Also will list leftover bits before dangling them on FleaBay.

 

[greiffster]

I think I burned through 4 sets of Shinko Ravens on my old 1150RT. I liked them a lot.