How to R&R rear boot?

[BobSut]

Hello,

 

I wish to replace the rubber boot between the swingarm and the final drive on my R1150RT, #10 (Rubber boot 33171452504) at Rear wheel swinging arm. I haven't removed the old boot because it seems too small to fit over the bearing races in the final drive housing, and likewise I'm not sure the replacement boot will fit during installation. So I hesitate to cut the plastic tie until I know the path forward.

 

Can someone reassure me that's a visual illusion, and the small end of the boot will slip over the bearing races without adding drama to my project? Or have I missed a step that makes it all simple?

 

Thanks for your help!

[szurszewski]

If you have the final drive off, you’ve taken apart all there is to take apart. The boot will fit - you might tear the old one if it’s really stiff, but a new one should go on ok. 
 

edit to add pic from eBay:

As you can see, there’s no other way to get the boot on other than stretching it around the pivot/bearing races. 

[BobSut]

27 minutes ago, szurszewski said:

If you have the final drive off, you’ve taken apart all there is to take apart. The boot will fit - you might tear the old one if it’s really stiff, but a new one should go on ok. 
There’s no other way to get the boot on other than stretching it around the pivot/bearing races. 

That's how it seemed, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Thanks!

[dirtrider]

35 minutes ago, BobSut said:

That's how it seemed, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Thanks!

Evening Bob

 

Be sure to heat the bearing studs to just under  120°c (248°f)   before removing or you risk stripping the alloy threads out of the swing arm. (those small soft  threads strip out easily if not heated to soften the lock-tite). Then clean the threads & re-lock-tite at re-installation. 

 

You should also seal the new boot to the final drive & swing arm using a long-lasting waterproof assembly grease like  (NBU 30 PTM Lubricating Assembly Grease). If you don't use  a long life waterproof grease your new boot will leak water into the boot. 

 

That  NBU 30 PTM  Assembly Grease (or equivalent)  is also good for re-lubricating the splines between the drive shaft & final drive pinion. (those should probably be re-lubricated while you have it apart).

 

Torque on the fixed side stud is 160nm, torque in the adjustable stud side is 7nm (but 10nm actually works better) with the retaining nut torqued to 160nm with stud held from turning as you torque the nut. 

[BobSut]

3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

...lotsa good stuff...

 

Thanks, got it.

 

After all the cleaning and preparation, I discovered during reassembly that the replacement driveshaft from Beemer Boneyard doesn't fit.

My transmission and my original driveshaft have 20 splines, but this one has 16 splines.

It turns out they include the same part number (26117655802) in the descriptions of several items, some of which don't fit my bike.

I've initiated the return, and resumed the hunt for a low-mileage used driveshaft.  Sigh...

[MontanaBud]

Minor hijack here but related.  I'm replacing the final drive on my 04RT.  In examining the stub end of the drive shaft,  it seems a bit notchy.  Not crunchy, but a couple definite indent feeling, approximately equal in both directions.   Normal, or could this be my vibration issue I'm trying to resolve with a replacement FD?

[BobSut]

On 5/20/2020 at 3:56 PM, MontanaBud said:

Minor hijack here but related.  I'm replacing the final drive on my 04RT.  In examining the stub end of the drive shaft,  it seems a bit notchy.  Not crunchy, but a couple definite indent feeling, approximately equal in both directions.   Normal, or could this be my vibration issue I'm trying to resolve with a replacement FD?

I'm not sure if this is what you mean, but...

Craig Hansen told me the tiny detent (slight notchy feel) in the motion of the universal joint is intended to stabilize the joint while installing the driveshaft onto the transmission output shaft, or the final drive. If it moved smoothly, it would droop during assembly, making it hard to aim the mating splines at each other.