Jump to content
Imgnr

2003 R1150R Sitting for 6 Years

Recommended Posts

Imgnr

Hi All - Instead of starting a new topic for the little annoying questions I might have, I'll just put them all here so that I won't create too many new topics.  I bought an '03 R1150R that was sitting for six years with ethanol in the tank.  The owner said he stopped riding it because of a worn clutch.  I've fixed up an '04 Rockster with the help of this forum so I sort of know my way around this bike and for $600 and $1,000 in back fees, I thought why not?  I've budgeted another $1K for parts.  The Rockster is running well but this bike, although it has 80K miles, is in pretty decent shape visually.

 

I split the bike and took out the clutch pack and indeed, the clutch is completely worn down and the plates have deep grooves in them.  The splines are still fine so instead of getting the upgraded  clutch from Beemer Boneyard like I did last time, I paid $125K for a clutch pack from a 20K mile doner bike.  While I have it apart, I'll change the slave cylinder, replace the rear shocks from the same 20K mile doner, change the rear brake roter and pads, adjust the pivot bolt (wheel is wiggling), wrap all the harnesses due to crumbling rubber sleeve, etc. etc. etc.

 

So, the first question is, I noticed four wires on the left side of the bike and two on the right have been clipped.  I'm guessing two on each side go to the grip warmer?  Unless they've shorted and blown fuses, why would someone cut them?  What about the other two?

 

Thank you

IMG_4417(1).jpg

IMG_4416(1).jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Mrclubike

They look like they broke to me

It appears they are at a place in the harness that has been wire tied

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr
1 hour ago, Mrclubike said:

They look like they broke to me

It appears they are at a place in the harness that has been wire tied

Mrclubike - I don't think so as the ends are very cleanly cut and not frayed so looks like they've been snipped.  I actually don't think they're grip warmers anymore because I think grip warmer cables are brown and black.  If anyone has a wiring diagram they can share that would be wonderful.

 

Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
dirtrider
On 5/2/2020 at 9:55 PM, Imgnr said:

Hi All - Instead of starting a new topic for the little annoying questions I might have, I'll just put them all here so that I won't create too many new topics.  I bought an '03 R1150R that was sitting for six years with ethanol in the tank.  The owner said he stopped riding it because of a worn clutch.  I've fixed up an '04 Rockster with the help of this forum so I sort of know my way around this bike and for $600 and $1,000 in back fees, I thought why not?  I've budgeted another $1K for parts.  The Rockster is running well but this bike, although it has 80K miles, is in pretty decent shape visually.

 

I split the bike and took out the clutch pack and indeed, the clutch is completely worn down and the plates have deep grooves in them.  The splines are still fine so instead of getting the upgraded  clutch from Beemer Boneyard like I did last time, I paid $125K for a clutch pack from a 20K mile doner bike.  While I have it apart, I'll change the slave cylinder, replace the rear shocks from the same 20K mile doner, change the rear brake roter and pads, adjust the pivot bolt (wheel is wiggling), wrap all the harnesses due to crumbling rubber sleeve, etc. etc. etc.

 

So, the first question is, I noticed four wires on the left side of the bike and two on the right have been clipped.  I'm guessing two on each side go to the grip warmer?  Unless they've shorted and blown fuses, why would someone cut them?  What about the other two?

 

Thank you

 

 

 

Morning  Imgnr

 

I can't tell a whole lot from your pictures like  where the wires are coming from & going so it is difficult to tell exactly what you have. 

 

I am having a difficult time with the full wire colors also.

 

A couple of those wires  do fit in with heated grips but not in the areas that you seem to be showing.

 

SO--

 

Give me the FULL wire colors (such as Green/Blue or brown, or green/yellow etc), how the colors are paired (what wires are in the same run),   & where the wires are coming from, or where  the ether end is going to (track them in both directions as far as you can).

 

Those wire colors shown are pretty common on BMW motorcycles so we need more info from you. 

 

Also, tell us if anything have been removed the motorcycle (like the ABS system or ?????).

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

DR - No ABS. There are two pairs of green/black and light grey wires with their own connector and sleeve on both left and right sides that were snipped.  The both go into the LH and RH controls right by the levers. If I had to guess it’s the brake and clutch sensors.  I don’t know why someone would snip these other than thinking that they’re snipping the grip warmers if they’re not using them and afraid they will leave them on accidentally. Would snipping the clutch sensor allow someone to start the engine?  See first two pics.

 

The third set of wires is brown/yellow and blue/green. It goes into the big connector. Near the top of the ECU. The other end goes into the LH control. 
 

Thank you. 

EC780E28-A2D3-4C8E-B694-C7F57A226DEE.jpeg

C2E155E2-43DC-4089-9F4D-F16369C8306C.jpeg

ABA13C2E-A0EF-4BB3-B64F-53E32B925BF4.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
dirtrider
23 minutes ago, Imgnr said:

DR - No ABS. There are two pairs of green/black and light grey wires with their own connector and sleeve on both left and right sides that were snipped.  The both go into the LH and RH controls right by the levers. If I had to guess it’s the brake and clutch sensors.  I don’t know why someone would snip these other than thinking that they’re snipping the grip warmers if they’re not using them and afraid they will leave them on accidentally. Would snipping the clutch sensor allow someone to start the engine?  See first two pics.

 

The third set of wires is brown/yellow and blue/green. It goes into the big connector. Near the top of the ECU. The other end goes into the LH control. 
 

Thank you. 

 

 

 

Evening  Imgnr

 

green/black and grey are definitely the colors used for front brake switch.  

 

Did that bike have ABS at one time???

 

If so & it was removed from the motorcycle maybe someone used pressure switches at a brake line banjo bolt to turn the brake light on.  Some used to do that rather than make up a relay system to reverse the factory brake switch operation.

 

Will the engine crank when in gear with the clutch lever out? If so then the  clutch safety switch has been by-passed (probably by cutting the wires going to the  switch then twisting the chassis side wires together).

 

The third set of wires is brown/yellow and blue/green-- I'll have to look into this one for you. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr
57 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Evening  Imgnr

 

green/black and grey are definitely the colors used for front brake switch.  

 

Did that bike have ABS at one time???

 

If so & it was removed from the motorcycle maybe someone used pressure switches at a brake line banjo bolt to turn the brake light on.  Some used to do that rather than make up a relay system to reverse the factory brake switch operation.

 

Will the engine crank when in gear with the clutch lever out? If so then the  clutch safety switch has been by-passed (probably by cutting the wires going to the  switch then twisting the chassis side wires together).

 

The third set of wires is brown/yellow and blue/green-- I'll have to look into this one for you. 

 

 

DR - First of all, thank you again!  The bike never had ABS.  The speedo is gear driven.  I actually never tried cranking it.  So from what you describe, it seems safe to hook the wires back up.  I'll wait for your input on the third set.

 

Share this post


Link to post
dirtrider
12 hours ago, Imgnr said:

DR - First of all, thank you again!  The bike never had ABS.  The speedo is gear driven.  I actually never tried cranking it.  So from what you describe, it seems safe to hook the wires back up.  I'll wait for your input on the third set.

 

Morning  Imgnr

 

I'm kind of striking out on finding  those brown/yellow and blue/green wires in the same connector (or related). But easy to miss something as I have to go over every circuit then track it back to wire colors. 

 

The brown/yellow is commonly used in the horn circuit but no blue/green (that I can find) used in the same circuit on the R bike. The horn does have a blue/brown related to it.  

 

Is you (R)  bike an original  U.S.  motorcycle? 

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

DR - Thank you for looking. I’ve already reconnected the wires but will open up the hand controls to verify since I plan on installing a small push button on/off switch for the fog lights. They may very well be for the horn since the button on the LH controller. As far as I know this is a US model bike. 
 

I did also notice that the factory zip ties were extremely tight so perhaps another poster was right that they cut into the wires rather than someone consciously cutting them. 

Share this post


Link to post
Mrclubike
12 hours ago, Imgnr said:

 
 

I did also notice that the factory zip ties were extremely tight so perhaps another poster was right that they cut into the wires rather than someone consciously cutting them. 

Yes they can be very clean breaks

I have seen wires fail like this and not even  break the insulation

 

That is why one needs to know how to use a voltmeter:grin:

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

Mrclubike - a voltmeter would work only if there’s a battery hooked up and since I thought someone had done it purposefully, I wanted to see if there’s an underlying reason. ; )
 

Here’s a shot of where the wire goes into. 

00431FCA-4D91-4326-87DC-A3F8C1D565EB.png

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

Here’s the tank. I did the Apple vinegar treatment. There’s some surface rust left but I think it’s ok. I’ll put some gas and shake it up and dump it out before I use it. 1471ED1F-8FEB-4B86-A32B-5AA2F153F021.thumb.png.92d3814e30e5ef6f0ce5698757224f93.png

4D395494-0BD8-4368-B0A3-407CA8C69868.png

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

So that’s why the rear wheel was wiggly. 
 

I ordered Nushings. Install seems straight forward. So no lube required!

14FD5032-FC75-4C98-AD45-8C7C4F4EFE14.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

Help please!  I reinstalled the clutch pack and replaced the pivot bushings with Nushings.  When I put the wheel back on and tried shifting, none of the gears will engage.  The wheel just spins freely.  When I try to shift the gears, it doesn't seem to shift all the way through to 6th gear.  Seems like it only goes a couple of gears.  I also cannot get the neutral light to come on.  The PO did not mention anything about a transmission issue although I did try shifting the gears when examining the bike and it seemed like this was happening before and I figured it was because of the clutch.

 

Any thoughts on what can be causing this? 

Share this post


Link to post
dirtrider
3 minutes ago, Imgnr said:

Help please!  I reinstalled the clutch pack and replaced the pivot bushings with Nushings.  When I put the wheel back on and tried shifting, none of the gears will engage.  The wheel just spins freely.  When I try to shift the gears, it doesn't seem to shift all the way through to 6th gear.  Seems like it only goes a couple of gears.  I also cannot get the neutral light to come on.  The PO did not mention anything about a transmission issue although I did try shifting the gears when examining the bike and it seemed like this was happening before and I figured it was because of the clutch.

 

Any thoughts on what can be causing this? 

Evening Imgnr

 

You are going to have to dig & check until you find the place that you are losing drive. Maybe remove the starter  so you can view the clutch then put trans in a gear then turn the rear wheel. See if the clutch disk is spinning, or if you are losing drive farther back in the trans or drive shaft. 

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

After taking off the starter, drive shaft housing, and the pivot arm, I found the problem and I’m embarrassed to admit that when I reinstalled the pivot arm the spline somehow slipped out from the end of the drive shaft. 
 

New questions:

 

1) I found this pin underneath the starter/kick stand area. There’s a hole in the end for a retaining pin. Any idea what it is?  
2) I didn't mark the end of the driveshaft and where the spline came off and just reinstalled randomly.  How important is it to "rebalance" the shaft?  I don't want to pull the drive shaft out and align the two ends (match the u joints).

 

Thank you

8205BF5A-66BD-4702-AA56-26371400BBE7.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
MontanaMark

Looks like a brake pad retainer pin.  Check your rear brake caliper.

 

Cheers,

Mark

 

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr
4 minutes ago, MontanaMark said:

Looks like a brake pad retainer pin.  Check your rear brake caliper.

 

Cheers,

Mark

 

Thanks!  I bet that's what it is.  I took apart both front and back brakes to change the pads and rotors.  I thought I put it away somewhere safe.

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr

I think it’s the front brake pin.

 

Question:  when putting the rear swing arm back on, there is a considerable gap between the housing and the arm. Is this normal?  I’ve torqued the pins. 
 

thank you. 

F80659BC-6657-4794-8A79-B7BBDAA21648.jpeg

5469F26F-41B3-4062-8D47-7768DB251140.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
dirtrider
23 minutes ago, Imgnr said:

I think it’s the front brake pin.

 

Question:  when putting the rear swing arm back on, there is a considerable gap between the housing and the arm. Is this normal?  I’ve torqued the pins. 
 

thank you. 

 

 

Evening Imgnr

 

Probably, how many threads do you have showing outside the nut on the L/H side (post a picture if unsure).

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr
1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Imgnr

 

Probably, how many threads do you have showing outside the nut on the L/H side (post a picture if unsure).

Hi DR picture was posted. Thank you. 

Share this post


Link to post
dirtrider
4 minutes ago, Imgnr said:

Hi DR picture was posted. Thank you. 

Evening Imgnr

 

Sorry I can't see it, I only see the pictures of the inside. I am talking about the threads showing outside of the pivot pin retaining nut.

Share this post


Link to post
Imgnr
1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Imgnr

 

Sorry I can't see it, I only see the pictures of the inside. I am talking about the threads showing outside of the pivot pin retaining nut.

DR - I see. From the outside. Here’s the pic. Thank you. 

3618F642-235B-4EF4-80A7-849B3F4AF4AF.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Miguel!
3 hours ago, Imgnr said:

DR - I see. From the outside. Here’s the pic. Thank you. 

3618F642-235B-4EF4-80A7-849B3F4AF4AF.jpeg

Look like two threads to me (just incase DR can't see this photo either). Miguel

Share this post


Link to post
dirtrider
11 hours ago, Imgnr said:

DR - I see. From the outside. Here’s the pic. Thank you. 

 

Morning Imgnr

 

OK, that picture helps. You are good to go as that looks to be about right as far as adjustment goes. 

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...