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BMW R1150RT will not run!


Richsvo

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dirtrider

Morning Ron

 

This thread is going to become difficult to keep on track with two people talking in your ear at the same time. It looks like  Hosstage wants to take over &  work with you on this so I will back out so Hosstage can work with you on the remainder.

 

If you need any specific information from me just  send me a private message.

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I am not taking this over, I will bow out. I did not feel my question sidelined or distracted from the direction of troubleshooting, but there will be no more questions or suggestions from me.

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3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

How much carbon do you see on the back sides of the intake & exhaust valves when you look in through the ports? This can tell you something anyhow.


Hey DR. 
 

There is not that much carbon buildup on the backside of the valves, the exhaust side are just much darker than the intake side, which I know makes sense. 
I am working this week through Thursday evening so it wouldn’t be until Friday that I could attempt to pull the cylinder head. 
I am going to try tapping the valve ends, blowing out the head, etc. and try another compression test before I pull anything off. 
I really hope you do not pull out of this thread. You have been such a great help thus far and I would like to see this thread be completed, in the event someone else is doing research on same issue. Please know that I am focused on your comments, regardless of what others post. 

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Evening dirtrider. 
 

So just a quick update so you know where I’m at. I rotated motor to close all four valves and proceeded to whack the top of each valve with a block of oak and a small sledge. Had nice “popping sounds” as each time I whacked it, the valves would reseat in their homes. Would turn the motor over again until they re-shut and then would put air through it. Then more whacking with air at same time. They still seem to move in and out very nicely (smooth), no jumping, no lagging, etc. Then I proceeded to perform another compression test, pulling fuse 5 and it still shows no compression. Just to make sure, I rechecked the other side and I still am showing over 150 psi. Just wanted to make sure it isn’t the gauge. 

So, at this point I don’t see any other choice but to pull the cylinder head. Going to take tomorrow off (better weather) and work Friday instead. I have seen videos from Chris Harris on pulling the head off and it seems pretty straightforward. What is it that you are mentioning on the sprocket bolt that I should concerned about? His advice was to not be slow and gentle but instead use a breaker bar and let it rip to bust it loose. Would you agree with this, or is there a better way? I believe (I’m going to watch it again) that he had the tensioner fully out, Bike in 5th gear, cracked the chain sprocket bolt, but not all the way, tie-wrapped sprocket to chain, etc. 

Is there a specific procedure you can direct me to? 
 

Please advise and wish me luck. 

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Oldrider51

RICHSVO,  

Excuse me if this has been mentioned, but is there anyway that a leak down test can be performed? This might prove that the exhaust valves or intakes are damaged as you believe or that it is leaking excessively past the rings.

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Plain and simple - it does not hold air. At all, immediately leaks from the motor. 
Removing the head will reveal the issue. 
 

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Jim Moore

Here's my tip. Before you remove the cam sprocket take a GOOD look at how deep the sprocket slides on to the spindle. take close-up pictures if you can. It's very easy to get that sprocket misaligned and end up with the key out of the slot. Then you squash the key when you tighten it.

 

Since you want to leave the original sprocket attached to the cam chain I might consider buying a used one from Ebay just to practice (and to have a spare if I screwed it up).

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dirtrider

Morning Ron

 

I looks like  you are getting plenty of new help here so I will politely back out so I don't interfere.

 

If you need anything specifically from me just shoot me a private message. 

 

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Just a quick update for all that are curious. 
 

One of the exhaust valves has a hole blown through it. That is causing the lack of compression. I now have a plan in place and once all of the parts have arrived and all is back together and successful, I will update this thread with pictures so that all can see the results. 
 

Thanks all!

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Warren Dean
1 hour ago, Richsvo said:

Just a quick update for all that are curious. 
 

One of the exhaust valves has a hole blown through it. That is causing the lack of compression. I now have a plan in place and once all of the parts have arrived and all is back together and successful, I will update this thread with pictures so that all can see the results. 
 

Thanks all!

 

Wow! That sounds like an odd failure. I have seen sodium filled valves do that before, though. Severe overheat caused it. Hopefully your rings are ok.

 

Congrats on figuring it out it.  :18:

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16 hours ago, Richsvo said:

Just a quick update for all that are curious. 
 

One of the exhaust valves has a hole blown through it. That is causing the lack of compression. I now have a plan in place and once all of the parts have arrived and all is back together and successful, I will update this thread with pictures so that all can see the results. 
 

Thanks all!

So sorry to hear of your problem and glad you found the source. My high mileage '04 is still running strong (head never removed), so hoping you get it all back together and can enjoy the bike again.

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Thanks for that update. Hopefully a mostly simple fix. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out. (Looking forward to the pictures.)

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I cant say for sure on a BMW...I had a Honda many years ago that developed an air leak.  It worked like an acetylene torch and burned a hole in a piston and a valve. Never knew I had an air leak until it died running down the freeway at night. No clue on the op bike.

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