1100gs oil level problem...

[RFK]

I rode my '95 GS around for about 30 miles(speeds of 60-70mph) with an extra quart of oil in her. when I realized I drained the oil filled her back up with the right amount and decided to gap the valves while I was at it. Finished the left side, started it up no problem. did the right side, started up then konked out after 10 seconds or so. continued to try to crank her over... no luck. Took the valve head covers off both sides again to make sure everything was tight and the gaps were correct. Each time I took the cover off and replaced it, I could start the bike for 10 seconds then it would crap out. there was oil; at the bottom of the air box and I'm sure some was suck into the throttle bodies anmd intom the combustion chamber.

 

At this point the battery is drained and I hesitate to start removing things that I have never done before. What advice do you all have as to how to proceed and what to check first. What kind of damage could exist?

Basically what I'm asking here is what the hell should I do next without causing further damage?

 

What are your thoughts?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

[DEF]

Bob,

 

As soon as you can, recharge your battery slowly...about 1-2 A/Hr rate. Make sure it has adequate DI water up to the marks.

 

Now, wait until you hear from ShovelStrokeEd for the remainder of the needed fix...Ed, take it away........

[Juan_in_a_million]

... when I realized I drained the oil filled her back up with the right amount and decided to gap the valves while I was at it. Finished the left side, started it up no problem. did the right side, started up then konked out after 10 seconds or so. ...

 

I'm not sure this is the source of your problem but you're supposed to gap the valves with the engine stone cold. Like leaving it off overnight and do it the next day.

One of the problems of overfilling with oil is that you may have blown some oil seals internally but, still, I think your bike should start. Try cleaning the inside or the airbox with a rag, then use a rag impregnated in gasoline to remove the last of the oin in the airbox, put a new airfilter and try to start it. Once you get it going I would use some of the STP fuel injector cleaner in the gas.

Good luck!

 

Juan Antonio

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Bob,

That symptom is unusual to say the least.

 

The only thing that comes to mind is a problem with the HES sensor not triggering the fuel pump. Could be the fuel pump relay or a portion of the wiring to include one or more of the interlocks.

 

Let me explain a little bit of the process. When you first switch on the key, the fuel pump will run briefly to pressurize the fuel rail in anticipation of a start. It then shuts off and waits to get pulses from the HES sensor into the Motronic which then activates the fuel pump again. There are a couple of interlocks, neutral switch, clutch disengaged switch and sidestand switch that can prevent this happening.

 

It sounds to me like the initial trigger, for the fuel pump is working but subsequent pulses are not arriving. So, your engine starts and runs on the pressure in the fuel rail but, since no further pulses are getting into the Motronic, or the driver for the fuel pump relay in the Motronic has gone bad, the pump does not resume running and the motor starves for fuel as pressure drops and it dies.

 

I would start by examining the fuel pump relay, I don't have a schematic handy but I'm pretty sure it will interchange with another relay in there. Your owner's manual should give the relay and fuse layouts.

 

You shouldn't have had to but, did you by chance disturb the fuel tank? Lifting it up to gain access to the air filter perchance? You might have disturbed the wire connector leading to the fuel pump, either partially disconnecting it or putting sufficient strain on the wiring to pull one of the pins back. All theory of course, I'm not there to look at the bike.

 

BTW, the engine should be cool when you check valve clearance. It does not have to sit overnight but it should be cool enough that you are willing to hold your hand on a cylinder head for an extended period. Say no more than 50 deg C. You should not run the engine between checking clearance from side to side. Check and adjust all 8 valves, put it together and start it up.

 

Some further reading of your post might indicate a problem with one of the spark plug boots as well. What method did you use to remove them?

[scottfarm2]

You did turn the engine over 360 degrees after adjusting the first side before doing the other side. That would explain it.