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Anyone know where the "topcase is closed" switch is for the internal topcase light?


Surj

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Short version: I'm looking for information on how the topcase's internal LED is turned on and off.

Long version: my bike (2018 RT) has the OEM ultra-baller topcase with brake light, internal light, rug, and associated ridiculous price tag. Recently, the bike started eating batteries—I can't pin it down exactly, but I think it the battery was draining to the point where it'd do the startup cycle but not turn over the bike in about five days. I know Beemers have a reputation for draining batteries at rest, but this is new—previously, the bike could sit for weeks and fire up just fine.

After replacing the original battery to be safe (since it had been completely drained) and killing the new (OEM replacement) battery, I charged both back up and monitored them while disconnected from the bike to make sure they weren't losing too much charge on their own. Both are ok. Tonight, I installed one, fired up the bike, and figured I'd check the battery again tomorrow to see how much it'd drained, in part due to notes from someone who dealt with a similar issue over on ADV (which resulted in an unspecified part being replaced under warranty). The issue should be under warranty, but I wanted to show up with some data: battery is draining x per day, etc.

On the off chance that the problem is something super-simple, I got to doing the whole "peering into the topcase as I close it" routine to see if the light was staying on. I couldn't tell, so I left my phone inside, recording video, and in several tests, the topcase light doesn't go off for at least two minutes. I suppose it could go off after a longer period for some reason, but that'd be pretty dumb.  

I poked around and can't find any switch on the mating surfaces of the top and bottom, and I can't find any fiche with the internal stuff in the box. I figure there's probably some kind of magnet switch in one of the halves, or something like that—anyone know? 

Thanks for your help!

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It's easy just keep the case open and close the handle the light will go out.  I use this method when I want to keep the lid up without having the light on.  Caution be sure to pull the handle all the way open before closing the case lid or you could cause damage. 

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Most of the moving parts are internal, so the switch probably is also.  Before trying to separate the inner and outer portions of the case, be certain the battery problem is being caused by the light.

You might just disconnect the wiring to the case and see if the battery holds a charge.

Talk to your dealer if the warranty is still in effect.

If you want to do the troubleshooting and provide data for the dealer, you'll need the tools (VOM meter with an amp function) and knowledge to measure the parasitic current. 

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2 hours ago, strataj said:

It's easy just keep the case open and close the handle the light will go out.  I use this method when I want to keep the lid up without having the light on.  Caution be sure to pull the handle all the way open before closing the case lid or you could cause damage. 

 

Thanks! I wondered if the switch was in the closing latch, and I tried this very thing last night. Light doesn't go out. So I guess that's it!

 

30 minutes ago, lkraus said:

Most of the moving parts are internal, so the switch probably is also.  Before trying to separate the inner and outer portions of the case, be certain the battery problem is being caused by the light.

You might just disconnect the wiring to the case and see if the battery holds a charge.

Talk to your dealer if the warranty is still in effect.

If you want to do the troubleshooting and provide data for the dealer, you'll need the tools (VOM meter with an amp function) and knowledge to measure the parasitic current. 

 

Yeah, I know the potential pain there. I've had several of the previous gen (very similar) topcases apart multiple times—successfully, I might add. Once I verify that it's the topcase (or not), I'm going to the dealer for warranty, with my notes. I was just hoping to be able to manually trigger the switch, but it sounds like—as suspected—that's not possible. 

As noted in my original post,  I've been monitoring the batteries out of the bike to see what they're losing on their own. I do have the appropriate tools. 

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Mine did that for a while.  I unplugged it and plugged it back in.  That was 3 years ago and not a problem since.  I had just had it in for service and I think the dealer didn't tighten the plug all the way.  I suspect you know where it is but just in case you don't, it's under the rear seat.  It may or may not be your problem.  Good luck.

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34 minutes ago, Skywagon said:

Mine did that for a while.  I unplugged it and plugged it back in.  That was 3 years ago and not a problem since.  I had just had it in for service and I think the dealer didn't tighten the plug all the way.  I suspect you know where it is but just in case you don't, it's under the rear seat.  It may or may not be your problem.  Good luck.

 

Yeah, tried that as well. A couple times, in case there was some special treatment of the plug required. Didn't change anything. The case has been off in the past, but not in a while. 

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