Working in the garage

[RPG]

During our time spent in isolation, I saw fit to replace the leaking fork seals in my '04 RT. Pretty straightforward process and no complaints with 110k miles.

 

I chose to attack it from the bottom, removing the wheel, fork bridge, etc. One thing I learned is that the fork bridge bolts had loctite on them, necessitating the use of a heat gun to break them.

 

I believe there is no maintenance on changing the fork oil, but man was that stuff dirty.

 

I replaced about 14 oz. fluid each leg and it's good to go.

 

Also replaced some dash indicator lights (oil pressure light out), and per D.R.'s recommendation, went with the different wattage battery indicator light. (Thanks D.R.!)

 

But my oil pressure light still wouldn't come on and ohmed out the switch to find it's bad. So I ordered a new switch and will replace that.

 

If we get through this virus, at least my bike will be in top shape.

 

 RPG

[Jake]

I know exactly what you mean.

 

 

Oh, you'll be happy to know I got the Nautique back up to speed - swapped the steering cable.  That was fun.

[rhaubold]

RPG,

 

Did you have to deal with the bleeders at the top of the fork tube when you installed the sliders. I'm about to replace the fork tube seals on my 04 R1150RS soon. I'm also going to attack from the sliders rather than remove the tubes.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, rhaubold said:

RPG,

 

Did you have to deal with the bleeders at the top of the fork tube when you installed the sliders. I'm about to replace the fork tube seals on my 04 R1150RS soon. I'm also going to attack from the sliders rather than remove the tubes.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

 

Afternoon Bob

 

You should really plan on bleeding the trapped air out or the internal fork pressure will go up pretty high when the motorcycle weight is set back on the front suspension. This puts a lot of pressure on the fork seals & adds a higher  spring load to the front forks. 

 

In that past I have (carefully) re-assembled the fork seals with lubricated  .001" (very/very thin) feeler gage inserted between the seals & the fork tubes to allow the air to escape, but it is a pretty darn fiddly procedure & easy to damage a fork seal.

 

 

 

 

[RPG]

2 hours ago, rhaubold said:

RPG,

 

Did you have to deal with the bleeders at the top of the fork tube when you installed the sliders. I'm about to replace the fork tube seals on my 04 R1150RS soon. I'm also going to attack from the sliders rather than remove the tubes.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

Hi Bob,

 

Yes, I removed the bleeders as I installed the fork legs, then after it was all assembled, I closed the bleeders.   So far, no leaks, but I've only ridden it a couple miles since the Governor's "Don't you Dare Ride" order.

 

RPG

[rhaubold]

 To access the bleeders, do you remove the nut at the top triple clamp?

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Bob

[rhaubold]

I just noticed the brass bleeders under the black plastic caps. Didn't realize it was that easy.

 

Thanks again for the help,

 

Bob

[Michaelr11]

2 hours ago, rhaubold said:

 To access the bleeders, do you remove the nut at the top triple clamp?

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Bob

You don’t have to remove the top nut, just loosen them enough to allow the tubes to drop down enough for a 3 mm hex to slip into the gap. Or, take the 3 mm hex from the tool kit and cut down the short end to about 1/4 inch so it fits into the gap without loosening the top nuts.

[dirtrider]

3 hours ago, rhaubold said:

I just noticed the brass bleeders under the black plastic caps. Didn't realize it was that easy.

 

Thanks again for the help,

 

Bob

 

Evening Bob 

 

Those black rubber beauty caps can be stretched then pulled down the tube a ways. You can sort of work around the rubber caps but getting them out of the way makes it easier.

 

In a lot of cases those rubber beauty caps are pretty degraded & ratty looking so I just remove them & toss them out (I don't believe BMW even services that part any longer). They  are only on there for looks & you can hardly see them anyhow.

 

You might also find a plastic zip-tie wire guide around the hex on the top of the fork tube on one or both sides, if it gets in your way  you can depress the little plastic trigger then remove it to get better access to the bleeder screw.

 

As Michaelr11 mentioned you can cut an allen wrench shorter to fit in there better, on my personal short allen wrench I also bent the long side down at more of an angle to allow easier bleeder fitting & usage.

 

If you are going to loosen the upper nuts then might as well just remove the nuts,  push the upper tubes down, then turn the upper triple tree & pull the tubes out the top. (a little more difficulty in draining the lowers of oil & slightly harder to install the seals but you then don't have to disturb the lowers or the fork bridge).

 

If you pull the lowers don't forget to install the axle (with no wheel) then set the distance between the  lowers (where the wheel goes in) to 165mm before tightening the lower fork brace bolts. 

[rhaubold]

Probably didn't mention this but, my bike is an R1150RS. It has black plastic caps that unscrew and expose a brass bleeder plug. I think this setup is much different on the RT models.

Regardless, I appreciate all the help and replys.

 

Bob

[Warren Dean]

So I have been a bit bored and decided I needed to do something about the boringly monochromatic front fender on my RT. 

 

I puzzled and thought and thought and puzzled and came up with this solution. 

 

I think it came out nice.   

[RPG]

42 minutes ago, Warren Dean said:

So I have been a bit bored and decided I needed to do something about the boringly monochromatic front fender on my RT. 

 

I puzzled and thought and thought and puzzled and came up with this solution. 

 

I think it came out tasteful and not too overbearing.   

That's really really nice.

[RPG]

Got my new oil pressure switch installed but with 6" of snow today AND the quarantine, still no riding.

 

 

[Warren Dean]

Luckily out here we aren't under a true lockdown and it is 80 deg. 😃  Bikes all over the place.