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Warren Dean

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Warren Dean

So I am putting together an emergency kit to store with my toolkit under the rear seat. I have bulbs, zip ties, butt connectors, flasher relay (I have a SM-5 installed) and a small test light but no spare fuses. Are the fuses in my '97 RT a proprietary type or will something else work properly? 

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They are not proprietary and I think they are all 15 amp fuses except for one which is 4 amps for the heated grips (I think).

 

What else you got in the kit?

Miguel 

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11 hours ago, Warren Dean said:

So I am putting together an emergency kit to store with my toolkit under the rear seat. I have bulbs, zip ties, butt connectors, flasher relay (I have a SM-5 installed) and a small test light but no spare fuses. Are the fuses in my '97 RT a proprietary type or will something else work properly? 

 

Morning Warren

 

Your 1100RT came from the factory with somewhat odd looking fuses by U.S. comparison but in reality they are just standard ATC blade fuses (available in about any auto parts store). They are ATC  standard size not the mini so don't get the smaller mini fuses as they are too small.

 

The BMW fuse ratings are 4 amp 32v, 7.5amp 32v, 10amp 32v, 15amp 32v -- don't let the 32 volt part fool you as they are just standard ATC automotive blade fuses.  Some riders carry all sizes 4, 7.5, 10, 15 & others just go simple & carry a few 10 &  some 15 amp fuses.  

 

If you don't understand what an ATC standard fuse is just remove one from your fuse box & take it with you to the auto parts store. The fuses found in your local auto parts store will look slightly different on top but all you need to worry about is the amp rating & the blade size/spacing.  

 

 

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Warren Dean
10 hours ago, Miguel! said:

They are not proprietary and I think they are all 15 amp fuses except for one which is 4 amps for the heated grips (I think).

 

What else you got in the kit?

Miguel 

 

That's good news.  I have some of those type of fuses from when I was wrenching on cars. Makes my life easier. :) 

 

That;s all I have right now. I can't think of anything else except maybe a tire plug kit. Any suggestions?

 

Cheers!

Warren

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Warren Dean
1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Warren

 

Your 1100RT came from the factory with somewhat odd looking fuses by U.S. comparison but in reality they are just standard ATC blade fuses (available in about any auto parts store). They are ATC  standard size not the mini so don't get the smaller mini fuses as they are too small.

 

The BMW fuse ratings are 4 amp 32v, 7.5amp 32v, 10amp 32v, 15amp 32v -- don't let the 32 volt part fool you as they are just standard ATC automotive blade fuses.  Some riders carry all sizes 4, 7.5, 10, 15 & others just go simple & carry a few 10 &  some 15 amp fuses.  

 

If you don't understand what an ATC standard fuse is just remove one from your fuse box & take it with you to the auto parts store. The fuses found in your local auto parts store will look slightly different on top but all you need to worry about is the amp rating & the blade size/spacing.  

 

 

 

 

DR, Thanks for the clarification. I am very familiar with that type, as I spent 26 years as a car mechanic specializing in onboard electronics and fuel injection. I have some left over fuses of the correct sizes and even a nifty little puller from a Ford of some variety. Looks like I am set.

 

Cheers!

Warren

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1 hour ago, Warren Dean said:

That;s all I have right now. I can't think of anything else except maybe a tire plug kit. Any suggestions?

 

Cheers!

Warren


Yes, get either the Stop N Go repair kit, or the Nealey repair kit.  And a good 12 volt air compressor.

 

  https://www.nealeytirerepairkit.com/
 

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5 minutes ago, Warren Dean said:

 

 Any suggestions on a compact good air compressor?  :)

 

 

Morning Warren

 

My personal favorite is to sort of make one (ends up smaller & lighter than you can buy).

 

I just buy a cheap Slime 12v auto air compressor (looks pretty large).

 

Then I remove the big plastic case & throw it out, shorten the hose to about a 12" then lengthen the wire pig tail so the pump will reach either wheel. Not required for actual operation but I also make a small aluminum shield for the pump gear (prevents possible finger pinch).

 

So I end up with just a small (unhoused) compact pump with a short hose & long wire pig tail as it is easier to store & pack a long wire than a long unneeded hose. 

 

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Warren Dean
1 minute ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

Morning Warren

 

My personal favorite is to sort of make one (ends up smaller & lighter than you can buy).

 

I just buy a cheap Slime 12v auto air compressor (looks pretty large)

 

Then I remove the big plastic case, shorten the hose to about a 12" the lengthen the wire pig tail so the pump will reach either wheel. 

 

 

Good idea. Thanks. Looks like I'll be set now.  :18:

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14 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Warren

 

Your 1100RT came from the factory with somewhat odd looking fuses by U.S. comparison but in reality they are just standard ATC blade fuses (available in about any auto parts store). They are ATC  standard size not the mini so don't get the smaller mini fuses as they are too small.

 

The BMW fuse ratings are 4 amp 32v, 7.5amp 32v, 10amp 32v, 15amp 32v -- don't let the 32 volt part fool you as they are just standard ATC automotive blade fuses.  Some riders carry all sizes 4, 7.5, 10, 15 & others just go simple & carry a few 10 &  some 15 amp fuses.  

 

If you don't understand what an ATC standard fuse is just remove one from your fuse box & take it with you to the auto parts store. The fuses found in your local auto parts store will look slightly different on top but all you need to worry about is the amp rating & the blade size/spacing.  

 

 

dirtrider, I've never seen an official R1100RT fuse diagram, only a 1100GS and 1100R which used the same diagram so I assume the RT was the same. Maybe not because they don't show a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse as you described. You have a pointer to a more accurate diagram for the RT? Thanks!! Miguel

 

image.png.5cae55490e4c1510907d3d8ce6a35964.png  image.png.6cfe25d29e9e960d907d230c11a9bcb5.png

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10 hours ago, Miguel! said:

dirtrider, I've never seen an official R1100RT fuse diagram, only a 1100GS and 1100R which used the same diagram so I assume the RT was the same. Maybe not because they don't show a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse as you described. You have a pointer to a more accurate diagram for the RT? Thanks!! Miguel

 

  

 

Morning Miguel!

 

I do have some old BMW documentation on 1100RT  fused circuit  requirements but typical of BMW information they don't all agree. The R & GS don't come with a radio option.

 

My post above was to show the BMW fuse amp/voltage ratings that BMW uses across the 1100rt/1150rt line not a specific usage per motorcycle.   As I mentioned above a lot of riders just carry the 10 & 15 amp as that covers most. 

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Thanks for the clarification on the fuse box diagram dirt rider. 

 

@warren: I got tired of purchasing the 5-packs of fuses at the auto part store for $5 each so bought a variety pack from Amazon with 20x5A, 20x7.5A, 20x10A, 20x15A, 20x20A, 20x25A, and 20x30A  in a nice box. It was only $8 and free shipping. I only need them on occasion and I now have a lifetime supply. I have a number of devices that use these types of fuses and while they almost never fail, occasionally I cause a fuse failure by shorting a wire while "fixing" something. Also, when I build accessories for vehicles (bike, tractor, car, other things) or other electronic projects, I usually fuse the power circuits. Its cheap insurance.

6102NadyN1L._AC_SL1000_.thumb.jpg.d8a5c81cc8958b7d91e198f1c8e49330.jpg

Miguel 

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Warren Dean
6 hours ago, Miguel! said:

Thanks for the clarification on the fuse box diagram dirt rider. 

 

@warren: I got tired of purchasing the 5-packs of fuses at the auto part store for $5 each so bought a variety pack from Amazon with 20x5A, 20x7.5A, 20x10A, 20x15A, 20x20A, 20x25A, and 20x30A  in a nice box. It was only $8 and free shipping. I only need them on occasion and I now have a lifetime supply. I have a number of devices that use these types of fuses and while they almost never fail, occasionally I cause a fuse failure by shorting a wire while "fixing" something. Also, when I build accessories for vehicles (bike, tractor, car, other things) or other electronic projects, I usually fuse the power circuits. Its cheap insurance.

6102NadyN1L._AC_SL1000_.thumb.jpg.d8a5c81cc8958b7d91e198f1c8e49330.jpg

Miguel 

 

 

Good find. I will get one ordered. Thanks. 

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5 minutes ago, Warren Dean said:

 

 

Good find. I will get one ordered. Thanks. 

 

Evening Warren

 

Check where that Amazon order is coming from, if fulfilled by Amazon then you probably won't get it for 2 months or more as Amazon is only shipping essential goods during the Covid 19. I have cancelled a couple  of Amazon orders that were bought with a 2 or 3 day delivery promise  then a day later the delivery time was moved to a month or more out (if even then). 

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Yeah. A lot of my Amazon orders have been delayed as well but they all get here eventually. Some even get here on time! 
 

Miguel

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Just a followup to the fuse box layout for the R1100RT, at least my 2001 version. Since I had a bit more time today, I looked in some of the documentation I had to see what I could find. The Service and Technical Manual had the details.  All fuses are 15A except heated handgrips which is 4A. Since I don't have a radio, I put a spare 15A in the radio slot. I have some additional spare fuses in my on-bike tool kit. IMG_1179.thumb.jpeg.58acf2b38db80401288b58182576dd54.jpeg 

 

IMG_1178.thumb.jpeg.f07d7b65b1b813af37bed47eda12bd6d.jpeg

 

Here's a picture of my fuse box, for posterity. You'll notice I have a 5A fuse in slot 7 for the heated handgrips, rather than the specified 4A. I just don't have a 4A but believe 5A is close enough (I hope!). The Add-a-Tap I'm holding in my left hand allowed me to separately fuse my Corbin seat heater which required a 7.5A fuse, without touching any of the bike's wiring.It fits without modification to the fuse box except for a small notch on the bottom of the picture to allow the seat heater wire to exit the fuse box. The Add-a-Tap is a clever little device. Similarly, the white wire at the top right is the tail light control wire from the Signal Minder SM-5.

 IMG_1180.thumb.jpeg.87496873ceffe85f324ceddc5b662fee.jpeg

 

Hope this helps someone in the future looking for this information. 

 

Cheers. 

Miguel

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Warren Dean
5 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Evening Warren

 

Check where that Amazon order is coming from, if fulfilled by Amazon then you probably won't get it for 2 months or more as Amazon is only shipping essential goods during the Covid 19. I have cancelled a couple  of Amazon orders that were bought with a 2 or 3 day delivery promise  then a day later the delivery time was moved to a month or more out (if even then). 

 

Good point. I have several 15 amp fuses in my tool box. They will do for now. Just a few spares should be sufficient.

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FWIW

 

Also check if you have heated gear, auxiliary devices, that are fused.

Different types of fuses, generally.

 

Had our Autocom go out in Nova Scotia, fortunately, had fuse.

 

Oh, and a valve stem removal tool with replacements.

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  • 8 months later...
On 4/12/2020 at 9:14 PM, Warren Dean said:

 

That's good news.  I have some of those type of fuses from when I was wrenching on cars. Makes my life easier. :) 

 

That;s all I have right now. I can't think of anything else except maybe a tire plug kit. Any suggestions?

 

Cheers!

Warren

A flashlight you can wear on your head!

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