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R1150 fuel distributor-regulator


OnyxWalker

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Hi, would somebody be able to tell me the hose routing for this regulator off a 2004 r1150r.

I bouught the engine used and this was just thrown in the box, now I need to know how to hook it up. 

I'm assuming theres an in,  a return and 2 injectors, the manual is not very clear.

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

20200405_161133.thumb.jpg.a44a891ff0b8d95595db4986c45e4a0f.jpg

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26 minutes ago, OnyxWalker said:

 

 

Hi, would somebody be able to tell me the hose routing for this regulator off a 2004 r1150r.

I bouught the engine used and this was just thrown in the box, now I need to know how to hook it up. 

I'm assuming theres an in,  a return and 2 injectors, the manual is not very clear.

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Afternoon OnyxWalker

 

That regulator is missing the hard plastic lines (they are basically non replaceable). 

 

You could probably use high pressure fuel injection hose & clamps but that is not a proper repair. 

 

In nay case see picture for port identifications.

Fuel reg.jpg

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Thank you so much for this... Its Perfect :)

Actually it was I who removed the severed fuel lines, with a little heat they came off quite easily. Pretty sure the barbs will be ok.

So I can run these lines direct as specified correct, fuel pump straight to input return straight back to the tank?

Also I found this do-hicky? do I need it?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

20200405_190449.jpg

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12 hours ago, OnyxWalker said:

Thank you so much for this... Its Perfect :)

Actually it was I who removed the severed fuel lines, with a little heat they came off quite easily. Pretty sure the barbs will be ok.

So I can run these lines direct as specified correct, fuel pump straight to input return straight back to the tank?

Also I found this do-hicky? do I need it?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

 

 

Morning OnyxWalker

 

That is just a quick disconnect (should have had one in both the supply & the return hoses). They are not really needed but they do make fuel tank removal for service  much easier. 

 

If you re-use those quick disconnects just keep in mind that they are fragile & do break easily then cause a fuel leak (a lot of BMW riders replace them with more robust metal quick disconnects). 

 

When reinstalling (or using new) supply & return disconnects install with them  facing different directions so you can't re-connect them incorrectly at service time.

 

Also, keep in mind that you are working with a somewhat high pressure fuel system so use high pressure fuel rated fuel injection hose & use special full circle hose clamps (do not use worm-screw hose clamps). If a hose blows off  a fitting you will a have a high pressure high volume fuel leak that can cause one heck of a fire. 

 

 

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Thanks Dirtrider,

 

Great advice especially when you consider this engine is going in my ultralight 

I bought an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator but the thing weighs a ton, I'll probably just make a manifold for the original using ASE fittings and braided fuel lines... super safe!

 

Thanks for all your great help, You seem very knowledgeable on these engines, dont be surprised if I bug you again..Lol 

 

Have a Great Day!!

 

 

20200201_183530.thumb.jpg.7b742db528e0a540a33e7408d5fd6852.jpg

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that's a cheap plastic OEM quick disconnect. i wouldn't use it in any application where your survival was at stake. BeemerBoneyard sells high-quality metal disconnects.

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2 hours ago, OnyxWalker said:

Thanks Dirtrider,

 

Great advice especially when you consider this engine is going in my ultralight 

I bought an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator but the thing weighs a ton, I'll probably just make a manifold for the original using ASE fittings and braided fuel lines... super safe!

 

Thanks for all your great help, You seem very knowledgeable on these engines, dont be surprised if I bug you again..Lol 

 

Have a Great Day!!

 

 

20200201_183530.thumb.jpg.7b742db528e0a540a33e7408d5fd6852.jpg

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Morning OnyxWalker

 

OK, an "ultralight", in that case probably don't even need to use quick disconnects as the fewer places that you introduce a PLACE for problems then the  lower the chance OF a problem.

 

One thing I will caution you on is that darn oil sight glass.   Those things are noted for blowing out even on a motorcycle & on an airplane that can bank & climb/dive the chance of excess crankcase pressure in probably even higher.

 

If that thing blows out you have a very short engine run time before failure, plus there is great chance of fire if the engine can blow that oil on hot exhaust pipes.

 

You might look into making a retention device that bolts over the outer rim of the sight glass, or even drill the engine case & cross safety wire across the sight glass. 1200 bikes used a snap ring to retain the oil sight glass due to problems on the 1100/1150 engines, not quite enough real-estate to do that on the 1100/1150 engine cases.  

 

On a motorcycle, when that sight glass blows out you get an oily boot & a walk-home, on an airplane your walk-home options are a bit limited. 

 

On using braided stainless hoses, just make sure that they are supple enough to not place a bending load on those plastic barbed fittings. That is why BMW used those molded plastic lines as they are pre shaped to not put much of any bending loading  on the plastic fittings. 

 

 

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I thought Germans were smart, that dont sound very smart .. I took a close look at the lens and it seems like theres some kind of plastic or rubber snap ring securing it.

I'll try a set screw from either side and if that dont work theres always J.B weld ... extra juicy :) Thanks for the Tip!

 

The fuel line I use is made from very flexible rubber with a nylon casing and all the fittings are compressed AN6. from the tank to the pump it will be metal tubing.  

 

After I start the engine and have err running smooth I will build an aluminum manifold for the pressure regulator and use all AN6 fittings. The trick is going to be finding a clever way to attach the fuel line to the injector housing.  Worse case...2x clamp.

 

I'm not using that quick connect Jim , no need. But your right, those are some sweet connectors

 

I'll post pics after hooking up the lines, Thanks for all the help guys!

 

P.s Sorry for the jumbo photos, I'm assuming I have to re size them before up loading.. just lazy :(

 

 

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Hey Onyx,

 

 DirtRider's suggestion is a good one. Unless you need a removable fuel tank, skip the quick disconnects. 

 

I actually have a complete pressure regulator assembly for sale for that engine.
It was purchased from BeemerBoneyard to replace a unit that was ultimately a red herring for a fuel issue I had. If you detect any issues with that unit, this one is perfect.

 

 

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