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2004 R1150RT ABS issue


runafter

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Hello All,

 

I just did my first brake fluid flush and now am having issues.

 

When I turn on the ignition, I get the brake failure light flashing fast (4x/sec) and the exclamation point staying on. From reading through all these threads that means that at least 1 circuit is in residual braking.

 

When I pull the front brake lever, the brake light comes on, the servo doesn't engage.

 

When I push the rear brake pedal, the light comes on and the servo starts running but doesn't stop.

 

I checked all 4 reservoirs and they all look full. The 2 master cylinders are for sure full and the reservoirs on the ABS unit are full up the the bottom of the threads.

 

The brake pedals are stiff, and I was pretty careful to not get air into them.

 

Any ideas? Any more info needed?

 

Thanks in advance

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7 minutes ago, runafter said:

Hello All,

 

I just did my first brake fluid flush and now am having issues.

 

When I turn on the ignition, I get the brake failure light flashing fast (4x/sec) and the exclamation point staying on. From reading through all these threads that means that at least 1 circuit is in residual braking.

 

When I pull the front brake lever, the brake light comes on, the servo doesn't engage.

 

When I push the rear brake pedal, the light comes on and the servo starts running but doesn't stop.

 

I checked all 4 reservoirs and they all look full. The 2 master cylinders are for sure full and the reservoirs on the ABS unit are full up the the bottom of the threads.

 

The brake pedals are stiff, and I was pretty careful to not get air into them.

 

Any ideas? Any more info needed?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Afternoon runafter 

 

When I push the rear brake pedal, the light comes on and the servo starts running but doesn't stop. -- What doesn't stop, the servo or the motorcycle?

 

I checked all 4 reservoirs and they all look full. The 2 master cylinders are for sure full and the reservoirs on the ABS unit are full up the the bottom of the threads. -- Is the fluid under the rubber bladders on the front & rear master cylinders & not on top of the rubber bladders? 

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2 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon runafter 

 

When I push the rear brake pedal, the light comes on and the servo starts running but doesn't stop. -- What doesn't stop, the servo or the motorcycle?

The servo continually runs after pressing the pedal

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5 minutes ago, runafter said:

The servo continually runs after pressing the pedal

 

Afternoon runafter

 

Did you remove the big connector at the ABS module to bleed the control circuits? If so take it apart again & look for a bent terminal pin. 

 

You might also try a battery disconnect for about 5 minutes to see if the ABS module will re-set. Be sure to do a new TPS relearn when the battery is hooked back up. 

 

Get it all quiet around you then listen for the brake switches to click on & off as you move the hand lever & move the rear brake pedal. 

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Thanks dirtrider.

 

I just saw the 2nd part of your 1st reply. - What do you  mean on top of the rubber bladders? The fluid is high in both, the front is over the sight glass, but the rubber bladder never came off the cap.

 

I did remove the big connector. And just rechecked and the pins are not bent.

 

With the key off, I can hear both switches click on and off. I've got the battery disconnected now and will wait 5 min. TPS reset is just twisting the throttle WOT 3x?

 

Thanks for taking the time.

 

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3 minutes ago, runafter said:

Thanks dirtrider.

 

I just saw the 2nd part of your 1st reply. - What do you  mean on top of the rubber bladders? The fluid is high in both, the front is over the sight glass, but the rubber bladder never came off the cap.

 

I did remove the big connector. And just rechecked and the pins are not bent.

 

With the key off, I can hear both switches click on and off. I've got the battery disconnected now and will wait 5 min. TPS reset is just twisting the throttle WOT 3x?

 

Thanks for taking the time.

 

Afternoon runafter

 

What do you  mean on top of the rubber bladders?

 

The fluid is high in both, the front is over the sight glass, but the rubber bladder never came off the cap.-- Then you are OK on this one.

 

There is a also a rubber bladder under the cap on the rear reservoir. 

 

 

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Dirtrider,

 

So after the 5min battery disconnect, same issue.

The rear master cylinder bladder is not full of fluid if that is what you mean.

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5 minutes ago, runafter said:

Dirtrider,

 

So after the 5min battery disconnect, same issue.

The rear master cylinder bladder is not full of fluid if that is what you mean.

 

Afternoon runafter

 

OK you are at about the point that you need to GS-911 (or dealer computer) on that bike to get the brake failure code or codes.

 

Did you look closely at each & every pin under that  ABS module connector as a pin can bend down in a "L" shape so is easy to miss as being bent.  Same with the removable upper connector as a terminal can sometimes push up a little back into the connector then not make solid contact.

 

 

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Well that seriously sucks.

 

Is the fact that right when key goes on it starts flashing at me mean it can't be air in the lines? Is that why you think it's an electrical issue?

 

I bled the calipers/lines first with use of the pump. That all went good. After I started bleeding the control circuits and removed the plug is when this happened.

 

I will triple check that connector and pins.

 

Thank you for your knowledge and willingness to help. Seriously.

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23 minutes ago, runafter said:

Well that seriously sucks.

 

Is the fact that right when key goes on it starts flashing at me mean it can't be air in the lines? Is that why you think it's an electrical issue?

 

I bled the calipers/lines first with use of the pump. That all went good. After I started bleeding the control circuits and removed the plug is when this happened.

 

I will triple check that connector and pins.

 

Thank you for your knowledge and willingness to help. Seriously.

 

Afternoon runafter

 

As a rule air in the lines won't cause what you are seeing, but trapped pressure in the lines might. Otherwise it is almost always electrical.

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Let me ask you this... while flushing with the ports on the module, i rinsed off the brake fluid with soap and water. I assumed these are water resistant.. did I assume wrong?

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3 minutes ago, runafter said:

Let me ask you this... while flushing with the ports on the module, i rinsed off the brake fluid with soap and water. I assumed these are water resistant.. did I assume wrong?

Afternoon runafter

 

Yes, it is waterproof if the sealed connector is on the ABS module. 

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Just now, dirtrider said:

Afternoon runafter

 

Yes, it is waterproof if the sealed connector is on the ABS module. 

And if the pins are exposed - not so much. 
Damn. What are the odds it will dry out?

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9 minutes ago, runafter said:

And if the pins are exposed - not so much. 
Damn. What are the odds it will dry out?

 

Afternoon runafter

 

IF,  that is the problem then about all you can do is try to put it out in the direct sun & see if it will dry out inside.

 

I have seen the ABS module ruined by not covering the connector port then getting brake fluid into the module during brake service (the open connector port should always be covered with duct tape during the service).

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Water for sure got into the area where the pins are. I guess I’ll see if it will dry out. I’m not very hopeful. 
Guess I’ll be removing the abs. 
I’m pretty irritated with myself right now. Thought I was doing good by getting brake fluid off right away. Guess I was overzealous. 
Thanks for helping me out. 
 

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34 minutes ago, runafter said:

Water for sure got into the area where the pins are. I guess I’ll see if it will dry out. I’m not very hopeful. 
Guess I’ll be removing the abs. 
I’m pretty irritated with myself right now. Thought I was doing good by getting brake fluid off right away. Guess I was overzealous. 
Thanks for helping me out. 
 

Afternoon runafter

 

I always put a long clear hose on those control circuit bleeder screws then route that hose away from the motorcycle into a catch container. Brake fluid is real good paint remover so I am careful in what it touches.

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Yes. I did that too, but when I took off the tubing, there was brake fluid that dripped on the module. So I would rinse off each time. 
Anyway, assuming this doesn’t dry out, do you have any guides to removing abs? I understand you don’t recommend it or condone it, but if one were to go that route, do you have any tips?

I have found a few guides, but just curious about the plug that goes into the module. Seems like a lot of unused wires. It’s ok to just let the plug hang and use the few wires required?

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12 hours ago, runafter said:

Yes. I did that too, but when I took off the tubing, there was brake fluid that dripped on the module. So I would rinse off each time. 
Anyway, assuming this doesn’t dry out, do you have any guides to removing abs? I understand you don’t recommend it or condone it, but if one were to go that route, do you have any tips?

I have found a few guides, but just curious about the plug that goes into the module. Seems like a lot of unused wires. It’s ok to just let the plug hang and use the few wires required?

 

Morning   runafter

 

I don't have a problem with riders removing the ABS system as I did it on a few of my own1150 bikes. You will probably have to do it yourself as most repair shops will not remove a safety device or safety system.

 

You can leave the ABS connector but will need to access the power, ground, tail light, & brake light wires (either just cut them or tap into them).

 

For a brake light switch reversing  relay you can simply use the existing ABS warning relay from the fuse box.  

 

Personally, I seal the terminal side of the connector with a homemade plastic cover & silicone sealer then zip tie it out of the way. Most don't bother but I am not most so like to do a tidy job with no future problems or issues.  

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DR, about those ABS modules that were ruined by brake fluid getting into them. Do you know if anybody tried to fix them and what the success rate was? I ask only because I have made some electronics stuff inoperable by water contamination in the past and had success in bringing them "back to life". You need to get the electronics out of its enclosure and clean the printed circuit board thoroughly with denatured alcohol and let it air dry. Lots of times the water and whatever impurities are in it creates current leakage paths across the board and causes the circuit to not work properly. In some cases the short circuits caused by the contamination can damage some of the electronic components, but not always (maybe not even most of the time). If nothing on the board got damaged then the thing might just start working again after it's been cleaned and dried out.

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1 hour ago, RogerC60 said:

DR, about those ABS modules that were ruined by brake fluid getting into them. Do you know if anybody tried to fix them and what the success rate was? I ask only because I have made some electronics stuff inoperable by water contamination in the past and had success in bringing them "back to life". You need to get the electronics out of its enclosure and clean the printed circuit board thoroughly with denatured alcohol and let it air dry. Lots of times the water and whatever impurities are in it creates current leakage paths across the board and causes the circuit to not work properly. In some cases the short circuits caused by the contamination can damage some of the electronic components, but not always (maybe not even most of the time). If nothing on the board got damaged then the thing might just start working again after it's been cleaned and dried out.

Morning RogerC60

 

None that I know of that got brake fluid into the controller took theirs's apart to try & salvage it. I'm pretty sure that someone somewhere  has done that, I just don't know of any (personally) that have. 

 

Calling  "Module Master"  might give you more insight on this. 

 

Removing the ABS module is kind of intrusive so a lot of riders on the old 1150 bikes just use that as an excuse to get rid of a servo braking system they didn't really like anyhow.

 

On the moisture/water thing, unless internal damage to components, or carbon  tracing issues, or circuit board failures then in a lot of cases the moisture can be removed by placing the module in a sealed container then attaching an A/C vacuum pump to draw a vacuum on the module.  Moisture boils in a vacuum then gets sucked out of the module. 

 

I haven't ever tried this on a BMW ABS module but have used it on other electronics, dash gauges,  & especially my watch when I mistakenly went swimming with my old favorite watch still on my arm.  

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2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

On the moisture/water thing, unless internal damage to components, or carbon  tracing issues, or circuit board failures then in a lot of cases the moisture can be removed by placing the module in a sealed container then attaching an A/C vacuum pump to draw a vacuum on the module.  Moisture boils in a vacuum then gets sucked out of the module. 

 

I haven't ever tried this on a BMW ABS module but have used it on other electronics, dash gauges,  & especially my watch when I mistakenly went swimming with my old favorite watch still on my arm.  

 

Thanks, I'd not heard of that before. Filed away for future reference.

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  • 1 month later...

runafter i am also having this issue on my r1150gs its been parked for about 3 years do to braking issues well i found that the front res was low on the abs pump so i filled it now when u press any brake it runs continuously till u turn the key off. i have notice that the rear brake seems to drag the motor down but the front doesnt seem to effect anything if your genuine about sending that abs pump id love to have it maybe i can figure out whats going on with both or make one working unit or something. thanks

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