Spring Maintenance

[Rogerl]

I am starting to do my spring maintenance on my 2013 R1200R and I ran into a few problems. First the front brake pads. I bought the EBC  FA294HH brake pads and they do not fit. They are too wide. I checked the EBC web page and they specify the FA294HH pads. The web page states the width of the pads to be 81 mm wide and they measure 81 mm wide. I set the new pads on the old pads and the new pads are wider. The top has a slightly different profile as well. What pads do I need to buy?

 

It is time to replace the alternator belt. When I replaced the belt on my HexHead I was able to move the oil cooler back far enough to replace the belt without removing the oil cooler. On my camhead the oil cooler is not going to move far enough away to get the belt in. The manual states to remove the oil cooler. How do I remove the hose clamps? Do I need a special tool to release the clamp? If not how is it done?

 

Any information would be great.

 

Thanks

Roger L

 

[Rogerl]

More Information.

I measured the width of the existing brake pads and they are 77.47 mm wide. The measurement between the bosses on the brake caliper is 77.59 mm. The width of the FA294HH pads is 81.15 mm.

 

For the oil cooler removal. I tried to remove the bottom bolt that holds the oil cooler bracket on and it did not want to move. On my 2007 HexHead I stripped the Torex trying to remove it and ended up drilling off the head and taking the cover off. With the cover off I soaked it in penetrating oil over night and was able to get it out using vise grips. I would rather not do this on this bike. Any words of wisdom here .

 

Thanks

Roger L

[RSH]

 

I am doing the same thing with spare time on my hands.

I use the system on the JVB Productions DVD for my 2012 R1200RT camhead. He shows for the R & GS I think too. I do not recall removing oil cooler on the RT.

Google JVB Productions & get the DVD he sells, it is a must have for me and has saved money and time.

 

Hopefully he covers how to service your bike.

 

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/

 

http://www.jimvonbaden.com/DVD_Info_Sales.html

 

Good luck!

[Rogerl]

I have the JBV productions CD. I looked at the section the alternator belt change. The video shows a GS that does not have the oil cooler in front of the belt cover. I know how to change the belt what I do not know is how to remove the the clamp from the oil cooler.

 

Thanks

Roger L

[szurszewski]

I see those EBC pads listed for R1200R up to builds of 8/2012, and then after that ... I'm having trouble finding the EBC pad, but Beemer Boneyard has other options (though no EBC for post 8/12 bikes). Looks like the calipers that would use the pads you got are Tokico branded, and the later calipers are Brembo branded. If I can find an EBC pad for those I'll edit this post with that info. 
 

Here's the Beemer Boneyard pages -

up to 8/12:

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/r1200r.html

post 8/12:

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/r1f9th20brca.html

[Rogerl]

I found that listing from BeemerBoneyard. I also found Galfer makes makes pads for the 2013 R1200R as well. I would like to find the manufacturers web page that give the dimensions of the pads.

 

Thanks

Roger L

[Rogerl]

So I did some more investigating on the hose clamps. It looks like the clamps are a one time use clamp. You need to cut them off and replace them with new ones. You also need the special pliers to crimp them. I found the pliers on Amazon and will probably buy the clamps from A & S BMW. I want to make sure I get the correct clamps.

 

Thanks

Roger L

[szurszewski]

If those are oetiker or “ear” clamps, of which bmw uses a lot, you can crimp them on with a pair of side cutters - just don’t squeeze hard enough to cut the clamp. 

[Rogerl]

Last night I ordered the brake pads from Beemer Boneyard. I hope that they fit. They were the only place that mentioned that there was a difference between caliper housings. I also ordered the hose clamps. I found we have  the crimping pliers at work so I will borrow them when it comes time to remove the oil cooler. I started putting some penetrating oil on the front screw to see if I can get it to come out. I will update further once I get the parts.

 

Roger L 

[szurszewski]

Assuming you followed their info regarding the build date and caliper differences, I’d be confident in Beemer Boneyard getting the correct pads to you. If, by chance, you end up with the wrong ones, do just call them - their customer service is excellent and they will get you sorted in no time. 

[Rogerl]

The brake pads from Beemer Boneyard showed up today. The new pads fit fine. The hose clamps are going to arrive Monday. I am soaking the screw in penetrating oil hoping it will break loose without having to drill off the head.

 

Roger L

[Rogerl]

Well I finally got the spring maintenance done today. Yesterday I cut off the upper hose clamp from the oil cooler. It was difficult removing the hose but it eventually came off. The lower screw holding the cover and part of the  cooler mounting bracket twisted off leaving about 5/8" of threads sticking out in front of the engine. I was able to leave the lower clamp on the oil cooler and swing the oil cooler away far enough to get the cover off and change the belt. I thought about what to do with the screw sticking out from the front of the engine. I started soaking it with penetrating oil hoping to try to remove it. After letting it sit most of the day I tried grabbing the end of it with vise grips to remove it. I thought it was coming out but the screw just broke again  right a the end of the vise grips. Now I had a stud sticking out from the front of the engine about 3/8" long. 

I was thinking how to get it out when it hit me on how to solve the problem. The oil cooler bracket has an aluminum post on the bottom and the cover has a stainless bushing pressed in to act as a shoulder. I pushed out the bushing and cut the post of the back of the bracket and used my lather to machine  a brass stepped plug with a M5 thread in it. I put the cover on, threaded the brass plug on the stud and tightened it until the shoulder touched the engine housing. I then inserted the screw that twisted off  the lower bracket hole and into the brass plug. I then put everything back together. I still need to borrow the clamp pliers from work to tighten the clamp and I will be done.

My question is what would the dealer had done to solve the problem if I had taken the bike there for the belt replacement? The would have broken the stud off in front of the engine and not but a screw back in the hole for the lower cooler mount and cover. I did not want to take the chance of drilling into the front cover of the motor and causing an even bigger problem.

I took photos of the parts I made. I have not figured out how to post photos on this forum. If you care about this and want to see the photos let me know and I will send them to you. I made a quick drawing of the part I made. If you have a 2010-2014 R1200R and you are going to replace the timing belt let me know and I can make the part for you.

 

Roger L  

[dirtrider]

2 minutes ago, Rogerl said:

My question is what would the dealer had done to solve the problem if I had taken the bike there for the belt replacement? The would have broken the stud off in front of the engine and not but a screw back in the hole for the lower cooler mount and cover. I did not want to take the chance of drilling into the front cover of the motor and causing an even bigger problem.

 

 

Roger L  

 

Afternoon Roger L  

 

The dealer probably wouldn't have broken the stud as most good tec's have a 5th sense about how a bolt or stud feels prior to snapping off so they stop short of breaking it & go preventive . 

 

I'm not sure how they would have handled the problem but using heat would probably be a well used way.

 

I can't say for sure how I would have handled it as they aren't all the same but on similar,  when I feel that a bolt is going to break before removal, I usually just drill the bolt head off, remove whatever needs removing, then heat the broken bolt stud just short of red. Then when it cools it will usually come out.

 

If your bolt had locking compound on the threads, or a Loctite product was used at assembly, that makes a tight seal so all the penetrating oil  will never pernitrate the threaded joint.  

 

 

[Rogerl]

DirtRider:

On my 2008 I had the torex socket in the bolt head of the bolt strip out so I needed to drill off the head.  I had just a nub sticking out to work with so for this one I made sure that the socket was clean and I tried to get it out. It did not want to come out. I squirted penetrating oil at it for a few days to try to get it loose. I carefully put torque on it and I thought it was coming out and it twisted off. Like I said before I was lucky and the bolt twisted off in the middle. With the cover off I cleaned the area with a small wire brush and started soaking it with penetrating oil. After about 4 hours of that I heated the end of the screw with a torch until the end of the bolt was red. I let the bolt cool then I re-soaked it with oil. I let that sit for a few hours then I tried with the vise grips. Again going with firm pressure I thought it was coming out when it twisted off just below the vise grips. I soaked it again and walked away. Thinking I would let it sit overnight. While thinking about it I came up with the idea of the brass plug. I did not want to try again getting the screw out only to have it strip off right at the engine.

Maybe the BMW techs are better than me but I gave this screw every chance to come out with gentle but constant force and it did not want to come out. 

 

Roger L

[Rogerl]

Photos of the repair