Plugging final U joint/diff into driveshaft?

[Mulepick]

Can someone please share with me the double-secret easy method for getting these two mated up? I can get the shaft picked up by the male spline, and even lined up by what I can see.

 

Been trying for hrs now, need help.

 

Tks,

 

Bob

[Steve W.]

Can someone please share with me the double-secret easy method for getting these two mated up? I can get the shaft picked up by the male spline, and even lined up by what I can see.

 

 

Been trying for hrs now, need help.

 

Tks,

 

Bob

 

Be SURE you have the U joint in phase that is the yokes are in the same plane. Then mark both the shaft and the rear drive with a paint pen or something you can see well. Then roll up a shop rag in a manner that it will support the shaft to just center of the swingarm. Place the rag under the shaft and leave a tail hanging out the bottom of the swingarm. Then slide the rear drive splines into the drive shaft, respecting your alignment marks, and when its in place grab the tail of the rag and pull the rag out. I didn't mention but grease the splines before all this.

Happy Trails

Steve

[DEF]

Mule, I solved the difficulty in the following manner...

 

Make yourself a cardboard jig with a tape tether that will support the drive shaft spline inside the shaft housing in the correct orientation while you are fitting the rear drive (with U-joint attached) to the female spline in the shaft. The cardboard will hold the end of the drive shaft in correct orientation while you fumble with fitting the rear drive, sort of like an extra hand inside the rear drive housing. Place the cardboard jig so that the rear of the shaft rests on the cardboard jig. Then lead the tape (I used some clear packaging tape.....it needs to be about 10 inches long) out of the bottom clearance between the drive shaft housing and the rear drive.

 

Once the rear drive is engaged, pull the tape to remove the cardboard jig.

 

One final note, make sure your U-joints are correctly phased before you slide everything together. Also, make sure the rear U-joint is fully seated onto the pinion shaft on the rear drive.

 

Fill ‘er up with 75W-140 synthetic EP gear oil and you’re ready to ride.

 

My first spline lube took me 2 days of fumbling before I got it engaged. With my cardboard tool, it took me about two tries to get the shaft and U-joint engaged. I then took the used cardboard tool to the BMW shop where I presented it to the BMW tech there. He says, “BMW outta pay you to make these things…….”

 

He saves time now when he reassembles rear drives.

 

 

Good luck.

[DEF]

Steve's and my idea solve the same problem......I just can't afford using my underwear, hence the cardboard.

 

Remember, plenty of Honda Molypaste 60 for the spline lube.

 

Also, carefully snug the adjustaable bearing stub (inside one) at the rear to preload the needle bearings.

[smiller]

I saw someone once post a clever idea to stick a piece of ice in there to hold the driveshaft in place, and once assembled just let nature take its course...

 

That said I've had my driveshaft out a couple of times but for some reason I've never had any problem at all getting everything reassembled. If I can figure out what magical thing I'm doing right one of these days I'll post it...

[DEF]

Mr. Miller,

 

Next time I have mine out and am ready to reassemble, I'm calling you. So, be ready.

 

The drive shaft assembly in the boxers has two U-joints, The front one is permenantly assembled onto the driveshaft. The rear joint has a spline that fits into the rear end of the driveshaft. These splines should be a tight, precise fit. If they are sloppy and go together easily, there may be excess wear at this location. Properly clearanced splines should be a bit difficult to refit together...that's a good thing.

 

Remember, plenty of Honda Molypaste 60 is the lube of choice when servicing these splines.

[Mulepick]

Got it done.

 

The rag method seemed to work best for me.

 

Tks to all for timely help.

 

Bob

[DEF]

Nice goin' Bob. Thanks for the update. Also, let us know about your clutch overhaul and how that works out.

[bmweerman]

Here's how I did it!

 

Good luck!!!

 

 

[Isatis_4CH92]

Hey, the guys working on the K1 were much more clever than the R ones

 

 

They already added some helpful tool in the casting.

 

Lessons learned and immediately forgotten, tsss

 

My (historical and vintage) .02cts

 

Ride safe,