Driveshaft and Moly 60

[RoSPA_man]

Hi guys

Years ago, I used to occasionally lube my RT driveshaft with Moly 60 - always felt good.

 

Three questions

 

1. Is it actually necessary to lube the driveshaft?
2. If so, what can replace the legendary Honda Moly 60? From what I read, there is nothing as good around since it was discontinued...Moly 77 seems to have a lot less Molybdenum Disulfide etc
3. If I crack open the driveshaft, I seem to recall that there was a "one-use" bolt involved - is that right (I can't find my manual)!

Thanks

 

 

[dirtrider]

59 minutes ago, RoSPA_man said:

Hi guys

Years ago, I used to occasionally lube my RT driveshaft with Moly 60 - always felt good.

 

Three questions

 

1. Is it actually necessary to lube the driveshaft?
2. If so, what can replace the legendary Honda Moly 60? From what I read, there is nothing as good around since it was discontinued...Moly 77 seems to have a lot less Molybdenum Disulfide etc
3. If I crack open the driveshaft, I seem to recall that there was a "one-use" bolt involved - is that right (I can't find my manual)!

Thanks

 

 

 

Afternoon Hugh

 

There is still some Honda Moly60 floating around even though it was discontinued (you just have to look persistently).  Some are now using the Honda M-77.

 

We use a lot of   Loctite 51048 for similar applications where I work & it has been working good & holding up just fine on spline & slip joint applications.  

 

Personally, I'm still using the old (discontinued) Optimoly TA that most BMW manuals call for (great spline lube) but eventually I am going to have to make the switchover, it will probably be the Honda Moly60 (if I can still find any), or more likely the  Loctite 51048 as I have easy access to that product. 

[Pappy35]

I use Optimoly TA sourced from MaxBMW. The anti-torque link bolt (the one you remove to pivot the FD housing down, is one-time only but I think that's because it uses encapsulated thread lock. I bought a couple from MaxBMW when I bought the grease so I don't care. They were very inexpensive.

[RoSPA_man]

On 3/17/2020 at 8:00 PM, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon Hugh

 

There is still some Honda Moly60 floating around even though it was discontinued (you just have to look persistently).  Some are now using the Honda M-77.

 

We use a lot of   Loctite 51048 for similar applications where I work & it has been working good & holding up just fine on spline & slip joint applications.  

 

Personally, I'm still using the old (discontinued) Optimoly TA that most BMW manuals call for (great spline lube) but eventually I am going to have to make the switchover, it will probably be the Honda Moly60 (if I can still find any), or more likely the  Loctite 51048 as I have easy access to that product. 

Hi DR

Look what I found on a top shelf of mine! Alone and unloved for probably 10+ years! Amazing. Beside it a tube of MP3 paste as well, which I THINK does a similar job, but I used the Optimol TA! Huge thanks

[dirtrider]

16 hours ago, RoSPA_man said:

Hi DR

Look what I found on a top shelf of mine! Alone and unloved for probably 10+ years! Amazing. Beside it a tube of MP3 paste as well, which I THINK does a similar job, but I used the Optimol TA! Huge thanks

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Hugh

 

Good find, that stuff looks like it came over on the Mayflower but the paste itself still looks OK. 

[RoSPA_man]

20 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon Hugh

 

Good find, that stuff looks like it came over on the Mayflower but the paste itself still looks OK. 

 

No Mayflower involved - just the Spanish Armada or the Channel Tunnel probably !!  Yes., the paste seemed perfect and spread smoothly etc!

 

[RoSPA_man]

To finish this topic - what is this MP 3 paste stuff for - been with me 10 years as well!

[lkraus]

Searching for the part number at MaxBMW:

Searching my RepROM, it is the recommended lube for places that need a light grease.  It's used for gearbox input splines, brake lever pivots, windshield mechanisms, pannier latch mechanisms, etc. The MSDS sheet does not say what is in it. The dirty grease I replaced in my panniers looked like ordinary white lithium grease.

[RoSPA_man]

On 3/20/2020 at 4:26 PM, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon Hugh

 

Good find, that stuff looks like it came over on the Mayflower but the paste itself still looks OK. 

Things get spookier. Yesterday, I dropped a socket which rolled in under a shelf system whose bottom shelf is about 2" off the garage floor. I used a brush handle to "sweep" under the shelf to retrieve it.

Out popped the socket........ but guess what else came out? Yes, an almost full tube of Moly 60! Quite incredible! Been there for 5 years I''d say!

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, RoSPA_man said:

Things get spookier. Yesterday, I dropped a socket which rolled in under a shelf system whose bottom shelf is about 2" off the garage floor. I used a brush handle to "sweep" under the shelf to retrieve it.

Out popped the socket........ but guess what else came out? Yes, an almost full tube of Moly 60! Quite incredible! Been there for 5 years I''d say!

 

 

Morning Hugh

 

Good find, like finding Gold.

 

Put that stuff in small plastic containers & sell it in the for-sale forum or on Flea-Bay. That old stock Moly 60 is getting more difficult to find by the week since is has been discontinued. 

[Dann]

On 3/17/2020 at 3:02 PM, RoSPA_man said:

 

 

1. If I crack open the driveshaft, I seem to recall that there was a "one-use" bolt involved - is that right (I can't find my manual)!

 

 

 

 

Only the nut of the "paralever link to bevel gears" has to replaced according to BMW RSD Manual

The thread-locking compound is in the nut, not on the bolt

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, Dann said:

 

Only the nut of the "paralever link to bevel gears" has to replaced according to BMW RSD Manual

The thread-locking compound is in the nut, not on the bolt

Morning Dann

 

Looks like it's  the bolt that has locking compound.

 

My old hexhead manual shows to replace the nut  but my camhead manual says to replace the bolt. (or use lock-tite)