1150 rt wattage LED vs. HALOGEN

[christianf]

When replacing halogen with LEDs should I keep the original wattage specified in the Clymer Manual?

 

[dirtrider]

20 minutes ago, christianf said:

When replacing halogen with LEDs should I keep the original wattage specified in the Clymer Manual?

 

 

Evening  christianf

 

That will be difficult as LED's typically draw way less current than conventional bulbs.

 

Sometimes it matters & sometimes it doesn't. 

 

The brake controller monitors the brake & tail  light current so low draw LED's can cause the system to default & illuminate the dash light. (if it does then  you can add some resistance in parallel).

 

Same with the turn signals, they don't always operate correctly with LED bulbs. (depends on the LED load)

 

There are some LED bulbs that have built in load resistors (those usually work without problems).  

 

If in doubt call the LED supplier & ask. 

[christianf]

Should I just change to LED for the low beam (just thinking of front lights at this time) or should I change high beam and fog lights also?

I found these for the low beam

2Pcs White 6000K H7 70W 8000LM Motorcycle LED Headlight High Low Beam Light Bulb (Fits: BMW R1150RT)

 

 

[Lowndes]

Why wouldn't you want to see better and be seen better with high and low beam??

[RogerC60]

The holder for the high beam bulb in the R1150RT is just exactly the right size to hold an H3 halogen bulb. Any bulb larger than that will not fit without modifying the holder. I just finished doing this on my bike. (Dremel is your friend.) I haven't had the bike on the road yet, it's still on the lift receiving other PM. (I put an LED low beam bulb in last Spring.) Shining my headlights on the garage wall it appears my new high beam projects a spot of bright light centered at the top edge of the low beam "ribbon". I'm hoping it makes for a good pattern but I have some doubt.

 

Here's the H3 LED bulb I used for the high beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07P9Y6JP6. Not only did I need to modify the bulb holder, I also needed to machine 2 more notches in the bulb's flange at 90 degrees to those already there, in order to mount the bulb with the LED chips facing left/right.

[christianf]

it's amazing all the choices out there. I found both H7, E1 and H3 LED replacements on ebay. Cant' wait to see what it looks like. 

Here is my choice

2Pcs White 6000K H7 70W 8000LM Motorcycle LED Headlight High Low Beam Light Bulb

Item price: $17.99 Guaranteed by: Fri, Feb 21 Order number: 04-04548-11132 Item ID: 184120230246 Seller: angle2019 (522) View order details

10X 12V T10 SMD Wedge LED Light Bulb Globe White 2825 168 194 192 W5W 501 158 US

Item price: $6.99 Est. delivery to your address: Sat, Feb 22 Order number: 04-04548-11133 Item ID: 153551014104 Seller: auto_bulbs (5434) View order details

2Pcs H3 6000K White 3535 SMD CREE 50W High Power LED Fog Light Driving Bulb DRL

[RogerC60]

1 hour ago, christianf said:

it's amazing all the choices out there. I found both H7, E1 and H3 LED replacements on ebay. Cant' wait to see what it looks like. 

Here is my choice

2Pcs H3 6000K White 3535 SMD CREE 50W High Power LED Fog Light Driving Bulb DRL

 

I'm especially interested to know how this H3 works for you.

[Bumwah]

I discovered in 1974 that I didn't care for the High Beam that came on my R90. I found out, through racing, that there is more that one bulb available for

replacement for headlights. That's when I bought my first, Off Road Use Bulb. The '74 BMW had a focused lens, so no one was the wiser. From 55/60,

I went to 60/85. Significant improvement, minimal change. I did the same with my RT. The replacement bulbs work great and as long as you use restraint

and don't try to turn your headlight into a welding torch or test your max electrical output, you'll be fine. I have use them for many long trips, and although,

I don't ride a lot at night, anymore, there is no fear, if I have to.

[joeyjamb]

Is there any issue with added heat from these off-road versions?

[Bumwah]

Nothing noticeable...

[AndyS]

Hmm, not quite true. The ground wire on the headlight unit of the 1150RT (in the area of the headlight connector) is marginal at best. That is one reason why going down the LED route is much better than going for the Higher power incandescent (Halogen) lamps.

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, joeyjamb said:

Is there any issue with added heat from these off-road versions?

 

Morning joeyjamb

 

There can be issues in using higher wattage conventional bulbs.

 

Lighting wring is the weak point as both the high beam & low beam use fairly small diameter 1.0 mm wiring.

That is marginal on anything over the stock lighting load but it will usually work OK with a "little" higher wattage.

 

But, as Andy said, it is the ground circuit  that is REALLY weak & subject to failure (burning) as the very same (single) 1.0mm ground wire carries the combined ground load of both the high & low beam. This is even a problem with the stock headlight bulb load as there were a number of ground side burning issues on the 1150 bikes even with stock bulbs.

 

There is another concern to take into account though-- As a rule most off-road rated higher wattage bulbs are not UV (Ultra Violet Light) protected.  That is not an issue on most glass lens headlights but is a BIG problem on vehicles that use a plastic lens. With no UV protection it will discolor the plastic lens over time. 

 

 

 

 

 

[AndyS]

50 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

There is another concern to take into account though-- As a rule most off-road rated higher wattage bulbs are not UV (Ultra Violet Light) protected.  That is not an issue on most glass lens headlights but is a BIG problem on vehicles that use a plastic lens. With no UV protection it will discolor the plastic lens over time. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D.R. is right, but at least the 1150RT uses a glass lens.

[christianf]

Very good point indeed

[joeyjamb]

Thank you for all the info. I am leery about going LED because of the mods to the housing plus the focus of the bulbs with the reflector. Recently though I had to replace a halogen in our 12 year old car and the new bulb made a difference enough for me to change the other bulb as well. So maybe just new bulbs will improve the situation. What about silver stars? Anyone see better with those?

[AndyS]

I wholeheartedly support moving across to a QUALITY LED. 

From my experience, the beam pattern was as good as the stock halogen. The light colour was easier on the eyes. The current draw is significantly less. I had to do NO mods to my light housing (unlike the HID's I removed).

 

[joeyjamb]

So which is the recommended quality LED? I see so many on Amazon and whatnot.

[Lowndes]

Joeyjamb,

 

Cyclops ( https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/ ) has very good LED bulbs, but are on the pricey side.

 

SuperbrightLEDs ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/ ) has good bulbs and a very good "bulb finder" that includes motorcycles, that will show you the types of bulbs by the position on the bike.  They also have some very good general info on types of bulbs and LEDs in particular.

 

When looking for LED replacement bulbs there are certain things to watch for.  

 

1.  Make sure the "base", i.e. H3 , H4, mini wedge, 9007, etc, is correct for your bike and light.

 

2.  Make sure the LED "bulb" will fit inside the reflector/lens - mainly in turn signals and brake/tail lights.  LEDs come in a huge variety of configurations and physical sizes.  If the LED (mainly headlight bulbs) has a cooling fan on the back end of the bulb base, make sure there is clearance there, too.  Some fans are much larger than others and it can be very challenging to measure your clearances there without actually installing the bulb. 

 

3.  Get RED LED bulbs for red lens lights (brake/tail lights) and AMBER LEDs for amber lens lights (turn signals, marker lights).  If you put a white LED in a red lens, the red plastic filters out all but the red  spectrum light decreasing the light output significantly.

 

4.  LED bulb brightness is rated by LUMENS, not Watts.  A general conversion is a 65 Watts incandescent is roughly equivalent to a 900 lumen LED.  LED bulbs draw much less current (Watts) for the same amount of light output, AND run much cooler that other types of bulbs.  They still make some heat, that's why the fans.  But you don't have to worry about wire size - if the wires will run any other bulb, they will certainly be adequate for LED bulbs.  Old fashoned bi-metal flashers will hyper flash with LEDs, tho.

 

5.  "White" LED (mainly headlight bulbs) are color coded by Kelvins (temperature), i.e., a 3,000K is definitely yellow, 4,500K is considered "natural white", and 7,000K is in the "blue white" range.

 

6.  Newer machines need CANBUS rated bulbs.  Some LEDs are CANBUS rated/compatible.

 

Be aware that LED headlight bulbs sold on Amazon and eBay are usually sold in pairs for autos and the Lumens they advertise are usually the COMBINED lumens of both bulbs. 

 

Most DOTs have a maximum allowable WATTAGE, and some have a maximum legal lumens output. 

 

Also, some reflectors do not throw the same light pattern with LEDs as with the OEM bulbs because of the "filament" location/configuration.  You may need to adjust your beam angle with a new LED headlight bulb.

 

 

[joeyjamb]

Thank you very much for all the info. I really appreciate it. Right now I am only looking to replace the headlights. I will let everyone know how it works out.