Trobinson Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 '96 R1100RT. I recently purchased bobbins from Dan Cata to fix a loose rotor on the right side. It took about 90 minutes doing it with the wheel on the bike. Interesting thing is there were three that were a bit different, although still secured with a clip. The main reason for replacing them was I had play side to side as well as radially. Another thing I found is the bobbins on the left rotor are not secured with clips. I'm guessing those are BMW original and the right rotor is aftermarket. The left is tight so I'm not concerned. The bottom pic is the inside of the left rotor. Link to comment
Michaelr11 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 The original bobbins all had the clips on the back side to lock them on. The three that were different are also original and correct. BMW called them roll pins. Nine roll pins and three pins with springs. The rotors in front are floating and supposed to move a little side to side, but very little radially. Check the left rotor for markings. With no clips it’s not original, probably an EBC 607 rotor. Ive used the Cata Dan bobbin kit. It works very well. All of the bobbins are the same. Link to comment
Trobinson Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 I just looked at the max bmw site and see what you're talking about. Thing is my rotor was so loose it rattled when moving at slow speeds and I believe that was causing more wear on the pads on that side. When I recently changed pads the right side was significantly more worn. I wonder why BMW felt the need for snap rings on 3 of them. Did they think the other 9 clips might come off? Tom Link to comment
szurszewski Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Possibly three was the right number to reduce lateral play without removing the ability of the rotors to float. (Or perhaps the engineers wanted all to have them and accounting wanted none, and three was the compromise.) Are you sure your right caliper isn’t sticking somewhat? A “quick” not quite scientific way to check would be to go take ride - use the front brakes normally for a few miles of stop and go, then stay off the fronts for several minutes - bring the bike to a stop with just the rear and see if one front caliper is noticeably hotter than the other. Link to comment
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