2004 R1150RT Cam Chain Tensioner Upgrade BMW OEM or Aftermarket Kit

[venturer434]

Looking for recommendations on Left Hand Cam Chain Tensioner upgrade kit as I am noticing intermittent faint rattle during initial startup/warm up. 

 

Read a couple of posts / history on this topic and getting ready for this upgrade. 

 

Questions:

- Should I go with BMW OEM Kit PN's ( 11 31 7 688 629 ; 11 31 7 656 922 ; 07 11 9 963 308) for this replacement ( costs 120-130 USD)?

- Can I get an aftermarket kit for this replacement (Costs 80-90 USD) ?

1. Any concerns in using the aftermarket kit specific to LH Cam Chain Tensioner Kit?

 

Understand I will also require O-rings (Throttle body + Fuel Injector) ; Special Wrench (grounded or flexible head) etc..

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, venturer434 said:

Looking for recommendations on Left Hand Cam Chain Tensioner upgrade kit as I am noticing intermittent faint rattle during initial startup/warm up. 

 

Read a couple of posts / history on this topic and getting ready for this upgrade. 

 

Questions:

- Should I go with BMW OEM Kit PN's ( 11 31 7 688 629 ; 11 31 7 656 922 ; 07 11 9 963 308) for this replacement ( costs 120-130 USD)?

- Can I get an aftermarket kit for this replacement (Costs 80-90 USD) ?

1. Any concerns in using the aftermarket kit specific to LH Cam Chain Tensioner Kit?

 

Understand I will also require O-rings (Throttle body + Fuel Injector) ; Special Wrench (grounded or flexible head) etc..

 

 

 

 

Evening venturer434

 

The OEM parts are basically just the re-designed 1200 parts that by luck fit the 1100/1150 engines. As far as I know the aftermarket parts are just the 1200 OEM parts put together as a single kit. 

 

(basically the 1200 tension piston inside the tensioner fits upside down so the oil doesn't drain back out of the piston when parked).

 

Depending on how you access the tensioner & what tools you have  will determine what other parts that you need to buy.  

 

I do those on my motorcycle lift so don't do the job with bike on the center stand, if I pull the front end down with straps I gain a lot more working clearance  as the control arm moves up.

[venturer434]

On 1/3/2020 at 5:16 PM, dirtrider said:

 

Evening venturer434

 

The OEM parts are basically just the re-designed 1200 parts that by luck fit the 1100/1150 engines. As far as I know the aftermarket parts are just the 1200 OEM parts put together as a single kit. 

 

(basically the 1200 tension piston inside the tensioner fits upside down so the oil doesn't drain back out of the piston when parked).

 

Depending on how you access the tensioner & what tools you have  will determine what other parts that you need to buy.  

 

I do those on my motorcycle lift so don't do the job with bike on the center stand, if I pull the front end down with straps I gain a lot more working clearance  as the control arm moves up.

Morning dirtrider, Thanks as always for all the wealth of information you provide us. 

[venturer434]

Thanks to Dirtrider for all the tips/inputs. 

 

After market kit worked flawlessly . Installed and started the engine ...Project Completed.  

 

 

 

 

 

[Claudio]

I also used the EuromotoElectrics kit and give it full marks.

 

A few tips,

1. I had to compress my front suspension slightly to create more clearance against the tele-lever arm which sits above the area.

2. I cut a notch in a box wrench to allow for more swing space (a tip from a Chris Harris video on the procedure).

3. As it was difficult to correctly torque to the new tensioner, I ended up leaving it a bit too loose (worries about over-tightening) and it started leaking after a few weeks of riding and required a quick re-tighten.

[BABABeemer]

I am about to do this project and was wondering if the old tensioner comes out together or is there a danger of the piston or spring dropping down into the engine?

[dirtrider]

25 minutes ago, BABABeemer said:

I am about to do this project and was wondering if the old tensioner comes out together or is there a danger of the piston or spring dropping down into the engine?

Afternoon  BABABeemer

 

There is a slight possibility the internal piston & spring can drop down as there is nothing holding it in the outside body. 

 

As long as the cam chain is not too worn then the piston will usually just sit on top of the upper chain guide. 

 

If it does fall out of the old tensioner body during replacement just be very careful  in digging it out so you don't force it past the chain guide. 

 

Removing the old tensioner after an all night park means the oil will be cold & thick so that can help.  

[RogerC60]

I used a thin magnetic retrieval tool to fish the bottom part out of the hole. As DR said, it was just sitting on the upper chain guide.

[BABABeemer]

Thanks for the advice.😊

[Skywagon]

A number of people on here have used this one.  I never did mine as it never rattled.  DR or someone else will have to tell you which one is better.

 

Oilhead Timing Chain Tensioner Upgrade Kit - Rubber Chicken Racing Garage: Quality Work. Classic Touch.

 

I think someone on this site owns that company.

[RPG]

one of the best upgrades you can do to an older Oilhead. Mine never rattles on startup. (now with 111k).

[BABABeemer]

I just completed the upgrade and it was fairly easy after I figured out the tool combination to get to it, 3/8 extension on top of universal drive and going in over the tele-lever. I didn’t have to compress the suspension or remove the throttle body. The engine runs extremely quiet now. Very happy with the upgrade.