1100RT 2000 drive shaft or clutch replacement

[WOLF KOFI]

HI EVERYONE.... 

 

HUMBLE GREETINGS...

 

My bike name is OBOLO please disregard the references to him being human lol...I'm breaking the bike down to check the drive shaft and clutch....thanks

 

As I prepare to do obolo's surgery.... I'm open to any smooth and easy ways to go in as far as the clutch... 

 

Again obolo was and abused bike but has strong engine... lol...he has a fighting spirit....

 

I PLANNING NOW TO TAKE MY BABY BOY OBOLO APART... why am I taking him apart? 

For two reasons actually ....

1. OBOLO has loss power 

 

2. More importantly I have no history of the bike and taking the bike apart will help me to be intimate with his needs and to restore him fully...

 

I would like to thank everyone for there support and help...especially DR...

 

OBOLO is a stepping stone toward me getting deep into bmw bikes here in KENYA, Africa... there is a huge new experience exploding here but there is a lack of knowledge, parts, quality of work...

 

Below is a link as to why it is best to take OBOLO apart

 

 

NEXT HERE IS THE VIDEO THAT I HAVE FAR CHOSEN TO HELP ME TAKE OBOLO APART... Chris harris video are barney style me and he has a raw common sense appropriate to handling the tasks....furthermore he tries to explain why and how the part work and how they should be properly maintained....

 

 

[Still CAL]

Greetings WOLF.  I have used the Chris Harris video several times already, it takes you step by step replacing the clutch and transmission on an R1100RT, which should be very similar to OBOLO. 

 

I know your bike has been abused so I also know you are ready for other “jerry’s” you may find along the way. This forum has the purpose to help those in need who have tried to find answers for themselves but are not having any success. Many knowledgeable people here can help. Enjoy your kidney transplant!

[WOLF KOFI]

1 minute ago, Still CAL said:

Greetings WOLF.  I have used the Chris Harris video several times already, it takes you step by step replacing the clutch and transmission on an R1100RT, which should be very similar to OBOLO. 

 

I know your bike has been abused so I also know you are ready for other jerry’s you may find along the way. This forum has the purpose to help those in need who have tried to find answers for themselves but are not having any success. Many knowledgeable people here can help. Enjoy your kidney surgery!

Thank STILL CAL....

[Ladioviro]

That's a hell of a video. Very satisfying watching it get taken apart. Is the clutch alignment tool a special one or can you improv them? Missed the bit where he mentioned it. 

 

 

[Ladioviro]

Good luck by the way, let us know how you're securing the front down if you're not using a lift. I was out there tonight trying to get the pinch bolts off the swingarm to inspect my final drive (bit grindy-feeling when I turn by hand), and I got nowhere with it. Might have to drill some hoops into the shed floor and get a hold of an old fork tube, Chris made it look so easy. 

 

Must pick up some sort of flame-thrower too

[Jim Moore]

17 minutes ago, Ladioviro said:

Good luck by the way, let us know how you're securing the front down if you're not using a lift. I was out there tonight trying to get the pinch bolts off the swingarm to inspect my final drive (bit grindy-feeling when I turn by hand), and I got nowhere with it. Might have to drill some hoops into the shed floor and get a hold of an old fork tube, Chris made it look so easy. 

 

Must pick up some sort of flame-thrower too

If you're talking about the pivot pins they're locktited with super-duper locktite. You need to really heat them to get them off. Like "put the heat gun on them and go make a sandwich" heat. If it's not coming, STOP. You'll tear the threads out of the case. Heat it some more.

[WOLF KOFI]

8 hours ago, Ladioviro said:

That's a hell of a video. Very satisfying watching it get taken apart. Is the clutch alignment tool a special one or can you improv them? Missed the bit where he mentioned it. 

 

 

I did not catch that part of the video... I'm still hunting down the tools here...that is the biggest challenge... 

Got lucky and found the 30mm socket but have to get the 12mm hex create which is crazy lol...

Torch I can get today

Straps as well...

Here they believe in man power over exspensive lifts...

But I'm pricing a ton lift in the industrial area...

 

To be honest I'm more concerned about getting the parts stolen from customs... and them holding the package for ransom... and take more money to get them released... 

 

 

[AndyS]

4 hours ago, WOLF KOFI said:

Torch I can get today

 

When you come to use that torch, be VERY careful. It can very easily destroy the paintwork. The Swing arm is painted / powder coated  silver. You need to get a lot of heat into it, but not in such a way as to burn the paint.

Remember you are trying to get the loctite (which in on the pivot pin) to break down. So keep the focus of the heat on the pivot pin mot so much the whole housing.

As DR mentioned earlier, a heat gun is much more useful than a butane torch. Just be careful.

[WOLF KOFI]

Hi Andy....

 

Thanks alot... I'm in the industrial area now discussing this project.... they are so far behind... hard to find the heat gun...

[Ladioviro]

11 hours ago, AndyS said:

 

 

As DR mentioned earlier, a heat gun is much more useful than a butane torch. Just be careful.

 

I tried mine with a heat gun but it heated up the swingarm also and I got nowhere with it. Mind you I didn't have a bar extension or my front end double ratchet-strapped to the floor...

 

Luckily my powder coating is already peeling so I can go mad

 

Functionality before form, as the architects say

[Ladioviro]

7 hours ago, WOLF KOFI said:

Hi Andy....

 

Thanks alot... I'm in the industrial area now discussing this project.... they are so far behind... hard to find the heat gun...

 

Any luck? I asked in my hardware store and they had a plumber's torch for €100 (expensive bolt) or a hand-held one that you screw onto a little can but he reckoned it wouldn't be hot enough for the job. 

 

Might chance one from amazon, would this work? https://tinyurl.com/vvo4wo4

 

 

[Still CAL]

I used Chris Harris’ setup, heated for about 45 seconds, no strapping down. 30mm half-inch drive breaker bar with an old fork tube for an extension. Worked well but I reheated the bdb’s (big dang bolts) to melt more of the Loctite. 

[Jim Moore]

You also want to ensure all the locktite is removed from the threads. Use a wire brush and take your time.You need to be able to turn everything in by hand. It's easy to cross thread those big pins and bolts. You don't want to accidentally cross thread something because you think you're pushing through some old locktite.

[Miguel!]

Thanks Wolf for the interesting thread, and you courage! Its an interesting and instructive thread. Please post some pictures along the way. The world is watching you (and Chris Harris). Miguel

[WOLF KOFI]

THANKS EVERYONE... it will take me a while to do the project because I must get everything from scattered sources... will post when I get everything together...

 

Kofi

[Ladioviro]

To ask a stupid question, is this what's known as the controversial 'gear spline lube' that people get touchy about? 

 

I don't know much about the transmission and when people say 'clutch' it reminds me of how I felt as a teenager when people say 'clitoris', not to be vulgar. 

 

I hear a lot of talk from people say this is how most oilseeds die etc etc, it should be done every 40k (miles) etc etc

 

But is that all it is in the video when he lubes the transmission spline and the clutch-rod shoulder? 

 

Not looking for an explanation of transmission, I can research it, just wondering...thanks

[dirtrider]

5 hours ago, Ladioviro said:

To ask a stupid question, is this what's known as the controversial 'gear spline lube' that people get touchy about? 

 

I don't know much about the transmission and when people say 'clutch' it reminds me of how I felt as a teenager when people say 'clitoris', not to be vulgar. 

 

I hear a lot of talk from people say this is how most oilseeds die etc etc, it should be done every 40k (miles) etc etc

 

But is that all it is in the video when he lubes the transmission spline and the clutch-rod shoulder? 

 

Not looking for an explanation of transmission, I can research it, just wondering...thanks

 

Morning Ladioviro

 

No, this thread is about drive shaft & clutch replacement not about spline lube or it's possible effect on clutch spline life.

 

If we answered your spline lube question in this thread that would be hijacking WOLF's drive shaft/clutch removal thread turning it into your spline lube thread.

 

We will be glad to answer YOUR spline lube questions if you start your own thread on spline lube. Just be sure to specify what you are working on  as there  is a big difference between the BMW 1100 (5 speed)  the BMW 1150 (6 speed) as far as spline wear failures are concerned. 

[Ladioviro]

33 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

 

If we answered your spline lube question in this thread that would be hijacking WOLF's drive shaft/clutch removal thread turning it into your spline lube thread.

 

 

That's fair, we can leave it there and i'll search the forum, thanks.  

 

As you were

[Ladioviro]

I got my final drive off today without heating it, no sign of thread-lock on it, I had no extension bar but I do have a drum kit and I used the bottom half of a stand, really worked a charm if anyone is stuck for extra torque. 

 

Hope it's going ok for you

[WOLF KOFI]

Thanks everyone for the support but the bike is no more...and it is easy for things to disappear