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Clutch install, Optimoly equivalent?


Mulepick

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Searched and found only "Staburags" as an equivalent to the "Optimoly MP3" BMW calls for to lightly grease the clutch moving surfaces. Will bearing grease w/moly work?

 

Also, I'm installing a new friction plate and spring. The manual says I'll have to use longer bolts to squish everything then bolt it to the flywheel through the starter cover. My (new) bolts will pass through everything and start into the flywheel w/o squishing with the tranny. No, I don't think I'm leaving anything out... and I realize I must attach the gearbox (absent a clutch centerer)to line things up before tightening.

 

Anyone else have this happen?

 

Tks,

 

Bob

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Stan Walker

The two I've done went together without the need to use longer bolts. One had all new parts, the other reused the old parts.

 

and I realize I must attach the gearbox (absent a clutch centerer)to line things up before tightening.

 

Not really, it's pretty easy to center the disc without it. The outside edge of the friction material should be evenly spaced in from the pressure plate outside edge. At least it worked for me twice, YMMV of course.

 

Stan

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Joe Frickin' Friday
Searched and found only "Staburags" as an equivalent to the "Optimoly MP3" BMW calls for to lightly grease the clutch moving surfaces. Will bearing grease w/moly work?

 

I did spline lube/clutch replacement 2 yrs ago. Used Valvoline Synpower grease, no probs/symptoms in 30K miles since. If I was to do it again, I'd probably use Honda's Moly60.

 

Also, I'm installing a new friction plate and spring. The manual says I'll have to use longer bolts to squish everything then bolt it to the flywheel through the starter cover. My (new) bolts will pass through everything and start into the flywheel w/o squishing with the tranny. No, I don't think I'm leaving anything out... and I realize I must attach the gearbox (absent a clutch centerer)to line things up before tightening.

 

Anyone else have this happen?

 

You're talking about the whole clutch assembly, yes? I don't remember having to pre-squash things with extra long bolts; everything pulled together just fine with the new stock bolts.

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Searched and found only "Staburags" as an equivalent to the "Optimoly MP3" BMW calls for to lightly grease the clutch moving surfaces. Will bearing grease w/moly work?

 

Also, I'm installing a new friction plate and spring. The manual says I'll have to use longer bolts to squish everything then bolt it to the flywheel through the starter cover. My (new) bolts will pass through everything and start into the flywheel w/o squishing with the tranny. No, I don't think I'm leaving anything out... and I realize I must attach the gearbox (absent a clutch centerer)to line things up before tightening.

 

Anyone else have this happen?

 

Tks,

 

Bob

 

With the help of a few friends, I just did this job a week ago (see this thread). I used the Castrol Optimoly paste from Motobins. Others favour the Honda Moly 60 paste, obtainable from your local Honda Dealer. These pastes are much thicker than grease - similar to toothpaste in consistency - and a toothbrush is ideal to apply it. Bearing grease is much to runny and will spin off with a good chance of contaminating the clutch plate.

Use the paste and wipe off excess.

 

I had an alignment tool, which helps, but in the past I have fitted clutches by eye with no problems. The human brain is very good at spotting the difference in distances if misaligned.

 

For the tranny alignment I used M8x125 bolts 110mm long, I removed the heads and cut a screwdriver slot using my Dremel.

 

We had long bolts to hand for the clutch cover but did not need them. Use new clutch cover bolts.

 

Cya, Andy thumbsup.gif

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And if Marathon man were talking today he'd say, “ Make sure that the clutch friction plate is installed in the correct orientation”. The clutch plate fits either way, but there only one correct way.

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Honda Molypaste 60 on all sliding surfaces in the drive train.

 

Make sure the engine output shaft and transmission input shaft are operating on exactly the same centerline...otherwise, you'll be repairing more than your clutch next time.

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Searched and found only "Staburags" as an equivalent to the "Optimoly MP3" BMW calls for to lightly grease the clutch moving surfaces. Will bearing grease w/moly work?

If you use the right stuff with a HIGH moly content!

 

Staburags is made by Klüber Lubricants. It is available in the US, but hard to get. It is basically a ~60% Moly grease. BMW also used to recommend Klüber's "Unimoly C220" bonded (dry) lubricant.

 

Honda sells a 60% moly spline grease that works very well. The Honda part number is 08734-0001. You can also use Moly-loaded FWD Universal grease. But never use ordinarly grease! You need the Moly content because of the high pressure contact.

 

Bob.

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OK. So I gotta pull the gearbox back out to use the Honda paste (and wipe off the grease I used). I also have to ensure that the friction plate is pointing the right way.

 

Now what is this about output/input shafts on centerline?

 

I never got a look at any output shaft as the flywheel never came off. I lined the flywheel up with my marks on the friction plate holders but, beyond that I thought I could just plug the gearbox back in through the new splines on the new friction plate.

 

You guys need to do a better job of replying within 5 min of my post so I can do all this stuff beforehand! smirk.gif

 

I got other stuff do move on to! Like brazing a new padeye on the front of the frame to mount the front fairing on. Knucklehead before me used J&B.

 

Tks

 

Bob

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