WOLF KOFI Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Please help on this one as well.... I need to get top dead center because I'm replacing my hall sensor.... Link to comment
dirtrider Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Afternoon Wolf Remove the spark plugs, then rotate crankshaft (trans in high gear then rotate rear wheel) until piston (either one) looks like it is near top dead center. Next, put clean pencil in through the spark plug hole (either one), then bump rear wheel until the pencil is out as far as possible (this will be very close to TDC). Then, look in through the timing hole & bump rear wheel until the ( OT ) mark is centered in the timing hole. If you need to keep it there then you can pin the flywheel from turning with a metal rod in through a hole in the transmission case. Link to comment
WOLF KOFI Posted November 25, 2019 Author Share Posted November 25, 2019 Thanks alot... I found the ot mark through the site hole finally... just need a sautering kit...then im on my way... Im just going through riding withdrawal and cant wait for the ship to bring the parts so far lol.... appreciate the knowledge... Link to comment
Michaelr11 Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Now that you have found the OT mark, remove the valve covers if you haven’t already. Shine a light on the cam chain sprocket. You should see a horizontal line pointing out, it’s really an arrow but the top of the arrow might not be visible. Most of us dislike removing and then trying to replace the rubber cover on the timing window. When you are doing a valve adjustment or other processes that need TDC, locating the arrow on the sprocket is easier than the OT. When you have it horizontal one side will be on the compression stroke, and rotate the motor to the next horizontal arrow and then the other side of the motor will be on the compression stroke. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 5 minutes ago, Michaelr11 said: Now that you have found the OT mark, remove the valve covers if you haven’t already. Shine a light on the cam chain sprocket. You should see a horizontal line pointing out, it’s really an arrow but the top of the arrow might not be visible. Most of us dislike removing and then trying to replace the rubber cover on the timing window. When you are doing a valve adjustment or other processes that need TDC, locating the arrow on the sprocket is easier than the OT. When you have it horizontal one side will be on the compression stroke, and rotate the motor to the next horizontal arrow and then the other side of the motor will be on the compression stroke. Evening Michaelr11 Those cam sprocket arrows are not precise enough to set the HES timing. He needs the ( OT ) mark reference for that. Link to comment
JamesW Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Why not just rotate the HES plate fully CCW (full advance) and call it good? Maybe run premium gas afterwards. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 45 minutes ago, JamesW said: Why not just rotate the HES plate fully CCW (full advance) and call it good? Maybe run premium gas afterwards. Evening James That would be a LOT of spark advance (probably well over 50° btdc) on an old 1100 engine that is probably coked up & running well above stock compression. Might perk it up a bit at lower RPM's but way too much spark advance at higher RPM's under road load. If the original HES is being re-wired then a simple scribe mark between HES plate & engine will get it lined back up to where it was. If it wasn't marked before removal then the screw head marks on the HES plate will usually get it back close to where it was. Link to comment
JamesW Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Hi DR, that's interesting. Somewhere I read that the maximum advance you could get with the HES plate was 3 degrees. I tried it with mine and I could barely tell a difference in idle RPM or performance. Before I rewired mine I did use the scribe mark method. Can you set timing on the R1100 by listening to the fuel pump turn on while rotating the engine? 1 Link to comment
JamesW Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Click on this link and see what Rob Lentini had to say about maximum advance on the R1100 with a 2.2 Motronic. This is where I got my info. One thing I noticed was a slightly smoother idle and I did notice the idle speed went from about 1050 to about 1250 so I did slow things down with the TB air bypass screws and re-synced the TBs. Runs nice and maybe starts a bit easier as well. In total the difference wasn't anywhere near huge just a small improvement in running overall. https://ibmwr.org/index.php/2018/07/08/r1100-surging-fixes/ Scroll down to Part 4 of a 4 part series and see ignition timing. Link to comment
WOLF KOFI Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 (edited) Thanks everyone for the love and knowledge.... since it is the old one im rewiring im going to use until the new one comes, im going to rotate the engine to the ot mark and set the sensor back to the original position it was in....there are screw marks for the Original postion on it.... hopefully i can rid until the new part comes.... attached is the new part waiting to come.... disregard the small viltage refulator....it is for my wife quad bike.... Edited November 26, 2019 by WOLF KOFI Link to comment
dirtrider Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 11 hours ago, JamesW said: Click on this link and see what Rob Lentini had to say about maximum advance on the R1100 with a 2.2 Motronic. This is where I got my info. One thing I noticed was a slightly smoother idle and I did notice the idle speed went from about 1050 to about 1250 so I did slow things down with the TB air bypass screws and re-synced the TBs. Runs nice and maybe starts a bit easier as well. In total the difference wasn't anywhere near huge just a small improvement in running overall. https://ibmwr.org/index.php/2018/07/08/r1100-surging-fixes/ Scroll down to Part 4 of a 4 part series and see ignition timing. Morning James I responded to you via PM so as not to hijack this TDC thread. Link to comment
WOLF KOFI Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Thanks for the love everyone... The Obolo bike is back on the road while the parts come in... Im glad that there are folks willing to help so far away.... Link to comment
WOLF KOFI Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 https://youtu.be/o7yvo44NPOQ I WANTED TO CLOSE THIS THREAD WITH THE WONDERFUL PURRING OF MY BABY BOY OBOLO.... ENJOY POST CLOSED OUT Link to comment
WOLF KOFI Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 REOPENING TO ASK ADVISE ON HOW OR IF I CAN USE THIS EFL-miniHT-R137 to set my 1100RT 2000 TDC.... humble thanks I advice.... Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 10, 2019 Share Posted December 10, 2019 17 minutes ago, WOLF KOFI said: REOPENING TO ASK ADVISE ON HOW OR IF I CAN USE THIS EFL-miniHT-R137 to set my 1100RT 2000 TDC.... humble thanks I advice.... Morning WOLF Yes, see instructions. Rotate engine until the (OT) mark is lined up with center of timing hole. (see #3 below). You don't need to lock there just make sure that it stays centered during the setting procedure. Operating Instructions: Unplug the Hall Trigger Sensor from the wiring harness Ensure that the piston is locked at Top Dead Center. Insert the Hall Tester in line between the hall sensor and the factory harness Power is supplied by the vehicles electrical system. Rotate the hall sensor plate to the point where the LED turns on - indicating the point of ignition. Note that if the light stays on a little whilst rotating the hall sensor plate then the precise point of ignition is at the very point where it turns off again - slightly more curate. Be advised that working on the ignition requires special precautions due to very high voltages - always see a professional if you encounter problems If you need further advise hopefully someone else will follow up as I don't know when I will be back on this site. Link to comment
WOLF KOFI Posted December 11, 2019 Author Share Posted December 11, 2019 16 hours ago, dirtrider said: Morning WOLF Yes, see instructions. Rotate engine until the (OT) mark is lined up with center of timing hole. (see #3 below). You don't need to lock there just make sure that it stays centered during the setting procedure. Operating Instructions: Unplug the Hall Trigger Sensor from the wiring harness Ensure that the piston is locked at Top Dead Center. Insert the Hall Tester in line between the hall sensor and the factory harness Power is supplied by the vehicles electrical system. Rotate the hall sensor plate to the point where the LED turns on - indicating the point of ignition. Note that if the light stays on a little whilst rotating the hall sensor plate then the precise point of ignition is at the very point where it turns off again - slightly more curate. Be advised that working on the ignition requires special precautions due to very high voltages - always see a professional if you encounter problems If you need further advise hopefully someone else will follow up as I don't know when I will be back on this site. Thanks for the love DR Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now