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COLD ride this AM. Need help!


Riderdrumr

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Good morning!

 

I loaded the bike today for work. I put on all of my Warmnsafe electric gear (Jacket liner, pants liner, socks, and gloves), hooked it all up, fired the bike up and got nothing. OK. Maybe I overloaded it. Disconnected the pants liner and socks, pulled the plug from the right side fairing socket and reinserted it to run the jacket and gloves. Still nothing. I had to get going only having the seat and grips for heat in 25 degree weather. I lasted the first 20 miles and then the cold really started to seep in. Maybe I need to shut the bike off before it resets the socket? Pulled off to the side of the road to shut it off. Nope. Tried the passenger plug. Nope. UGH!!!!

 

I used the heated gear (jacket & gloves only) last week and it was fine. Someone please tell me what I did wrong. Preferably before I have to head home today at 3:00.

 

Thanks!

 

Dave

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My aftermarket heated seat has kicked out that circuit if I put it on full and when it happened it seemed that there is a long time out before the circuit becomes active again, or a full shut down and restart.   If you can split some gear to the pillions socket under the left grab bar you may have better luck.  I know some here have set up a dedicated fused circuit directly connected to the battery.

 

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Corazon de Pollo

You should wait at least one minute before turning on the bike again to "reset" the XBCO (body controller): it sees an excess draw from the power socket as a short and will shut that circuit down to avoid further troubles. It should work again after the aforementioned "reset" or after a whole day off at work. ;)

Bear in mind these sockets are 5A rated, so if the whole of your electric gear is over 60W (12V*5A=60W) you should make a choice of what to wear on your way back home to avoid freezing and consider either battery-powered gear or running a socket plug directly from the battery.

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24 minutes ago, Riderdrumr said:

...I used the heated gear (jacket & gloves only) last week and it was fine...

 

Hi Dave. You were lucky not to overload it with even the Jacket and gloves.

The CanBus will only allow you to pull 10A max on the whole power socket circuits (front and rear combined).

You really need to hard-wire your sockets to a fused connector directly to the battery.

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22 minutes ago, AndyS said:

You really need to hard-wire your sockets to a fused connector directly to the battery.

 

The previous owner pointed out the battery tender pigtail towards bottom of the bike. Is that what you are talking about? 

 

With all due respect to the brilliant engineers at BMW, what the heck are those sockets for? Don't they realize most BMW riders use electric gear? Is it too hard to design those sockets for a higher output?

IMG_5549.JPG

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I would suggest that you rewire the front plug directly to the battery and install a 20 amp fuse inline to protect the circuit.  This will allow you to use all of your gear and also allow you to charge your battery through the plug or use a 12 volt air compressor through the plug without upsetting the canbus system.  I did this 5 years ago and have had no problems with the plug or system.

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46 minutes ago, Rob L said:

I would suggest that you rewire the front plug directly to the battery and install a 20 amp fuse inline to protect the circuit.  This will allow you to use all of your gear and also allow you to charge your battery through the plug or use a 12 volt air compressor through the plug without upsetting the canbus system.  I did this 5 years ago and have had no problems with the plug or system.

 

Yep to this. Just make sure that you do re-wire completely from the socket with a suitable gauge wire. As OEM, it is nowhere near man enough for the loads you want to use.

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54 minutes ago, Riderdrumr said:

 

Quote

The previous owner pointed out the battery tender pigtail towards bottom of the bike. Is that what you are talking about? 

 

 The previous owner pointed out the battery tender pigtail towards bottom of the bike. Is that what you are talking about? 

54 minutes ago, Riderdrumr said:

With all due respect to the brilliant engineers at BMW, what the heck are those sockets for? Don't they realize most BMW riders use electric gear? Is it too hard to design those sockets for a higher output?

You are right, they really are short of the mark on this issue! 

 

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2 hours ago, Riderdrumr said:

Good morning!

 

I loaded the bike today for work. I put on all of my Warmnsafe electric gear (Jacket liner, pants liner, socks, and gloves), hooked it all up, fired the bike up and got nothing. OK. Maybe I overloaded it. Disconnected the pants liner and socks, pulled the plug from the right side fairing socket and reinserted it to run the jacket and gloves. Still nothing. I had to get going only having the seat and grips for heat in 25 degree weather. I lasted the first 20 miles and then the cold really started to seep in. Maybe I need to shut the bike off before it resets the socket? Pulled off to the side of the road to shut it off. Nope. Tried the passenger plug. Nope. UGH!!!!

 

I used the heated gear (jacket & gloves only) last week and it was fine. Someone please tell me what I did wrong. Preferably before I have to head home today at 3:00.

 

Thanks!

 

Dave

 

Afternoon Dave

 

Yes, quite common as the accessory sockets are only rated at 10 amps  (that is 10 amps for both front & rear together). So you can use up to 10 amps on the front if you are not using the rear. 

 

If the accessory socket shuts down then just a full key-off (I suggest that you turn off the load) then a simple restart will re-set the socket (no wait time needed for re-start).

 

I just rewire mine to  (in-line fused) 15 amp battery direct as that allows about any heated gear that you need to run. But I also install the older BMW sockets as those have higher amp spade type terminals (plus with those you don't have to cut the OEM wire harness to get the connector to use).

 

Some do just rewire the current factory sockets to 15 amp battery direct & that will probably work OK  but the small terminal pins on the newer accessory sockets are not rated for a full 15 amps so a continuous high amp load could cause the terminal pins to overheat.  (plus, I don't like to cut the factory wiring harness just to get the connector) 

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35 minutes ago, Pappy35 said:

What's the hive mind's consensus regarding heated jackets? I like the look of the Aerostich Kanetsu Windstoppers but there's not much out there regarding user reviews. Warm and Safe? I don't want to hijack this thread buy this seems related...

 

Afternoon  Pappy35

 

You really should start a new thread on your request as this thread is about Dave's power draw & accessory circuits shutting down not about what heated clothing is best. 

 

You need to start a new thread on what is the best heated clothing, or on heated clothing reviews.   

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So DR...when you say direct to battery 15 Amp...are you wiring that to the factory plug or putting in a new aux plug with new circuit to battery?  I too had mine go off line going down the highway with gloves and liner on high.  It will run them both if I keep them pretty low....but only after I get going.

 

 

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28 minutes ago, Skywagon said:

So DR...when you say direct to battery 15 Amp...are you wiring that to the factory plug or putting in a new aux plug with new circuit to battery?  I too had mine go off line going down the highway with gloves and liner on high.  It will run them both if I keep them pretty low....but only after I get going.

 

 

 

Afternoon  Skywagon 

 

What I typically do is unplug the factory pig tail harness going to the front accessory outlet, cover the connector then zip tie it out of the way.  

 

Then I remove the factory accessory outlet & install an accessory outlet from a BMW 1100 or 1150 bike (those have the larger 15 amp spade type terminals). 

 

I then make up a harness that connects  directly  to the battery (+) post & (-) post with an inline 15 amp fuse in the (+) wire. (I cover this harness with small diameter convoluted wire harness covering & zip tie to secure safe routing).  I typically install the fuse right near the battery for easy access if it gets blown from a short.

 

I have some proper connectors & terminal to fit on the 1100/1150 accessory outlets but you can just use crimp on standard terminals (from auto part store)  & cover them with heat shrink. (use red heat shrink on the (+) terminal & back heat shrink on the (-) terminal (so you can put them back on correctly after removing for service).

 

Some riders do cut the OEM wire harness leaving enough wire on the OEM connector to  splice on to  a home built  battery direct fused harness. But this uses the small diameter OEM pin terminals (those are not 15 amp terminals) but will carry enough current for a quick overload to 15 amps, just not continuous). Personally I don't like to cut the factory harness if I don't have to.

 

I usually only convert the front accessory outlet as most of my passengers won't ride with me is sub freezing weather so about all I run on the rear outlet is possibly a heated vest for a passenger on a cooler day ride. 

 

One of the downsides of converting an accessory outlet to full time 12v is that any moisture remaining in the full time  outlet (they don't totally seal)  can cause an internal  green corrosion over time & that  not only makes a mess inside the outlet but in severe cases can actually cause a measurable parasitic power drain (if bike is washed with water from a home  water softener then outlet corrosion happens much sooner & with greater corrosion buildup). So I don't recommend converting an outlet that you won't use more than 10 amps on. 

 

PowerLet used to make a couple of harness kits to convert the accessory sockets, one used the stock OEM  small pin outlet & another kit that included the larger terminal older style accessory outlet. But since PowerLet went out of business & is now returned I don't know what they currently offer.  

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Thanks - got it...I think I might just add one from the 1150 era as you suggest and keep the original intact.  Someone posted on this site where they added one of the right hand side.  I've had that panel off and there is plenty of room to put one in just above the factory one.

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7 minutes ago, Skywagon said:

Thanks - got it...I think I might just add one from the 1150 era as you suggest and keep the original intact.  Someone posted on this site where they added one of the right hand side.  I've had that panel off and there is plenty of room to put one in just above the factory one.

 

Evening Skywagon 

 

Yes, you could add a 2nd one but why?  I seriously doubt that you would ever use the original (computer controlled) outlet once you add a real 15 amp battery direct outlet.

 

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Nice,  San Marino Blue...same color of your fingers and lips. Need amps that won't quit!

 

Kidding aside, you might get away plugging into the battery maintainer pigtail, but please be sure what ever you do you have a fused circuit to plug into.

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26 minutes ago, Paul De said:

Nice,  San Marino Blue...same color of your fingers and lips. Need amps that won't quit!

 

Kidding aside, you might get away plugging into the battery maintainer pigtail, but please be sure what ever you do you have a fused circuit to plug into.

Lol! Yes, very true.

 

Good point on the fused circuit. Thanks!

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When I updated my heated gear, after getting the 2018 RT, I bought from Warm&Safe a panel outlet. I mounted it in the small triangle panel on the left side below the seat. It is wired to the battery with a fuse.

I have never used it for anything more then heated jacket and gloves. But I haven‘t had any issues.

D069CC36-8284-4986-8C15-8C4D22CC76F6.thumb.jpeg.eee68540277b4cd8d243cf96bf262540.jpegE6C02B15-79AE-4095-8ADD-19200DF6AA6D.thumb.jpeg.bb7c1ec4e15fce0827c02f91e07f93a2.jpeg346C4C22-A125-479C-8BA2-338FA662DF47.thumb.jpeg.9c4dfc78b57603edbfd4dc998523c75e.jpeg

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7 hours ago, AndyS said:

Hi Bernie,

I did much the same thing. 

Same panel similar location, but I added 2 sockets there. One for me, and one for my pillion.

Are these sockets the bigger old style sockets that DR refers to being capable of 15 amp loads?

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3 hours ago, Rinkydink said:

Are these sockets the bigger old style sockets that DR refers to being capable of 15 amp loads?

 

Good afternoon.

No, these are not the BMW Style sockets, but are the sockets made for this purpose and sold by the Warm&Safe (Heated Garment supplier). They claim it will handle a jacket and a pair of heated gloves with no problem. The harness was supplied with a 15 amp fuse.

It uses a banana style plug, as most of the heated garments makers use nowadays.

The picture below shows the rear of the socket and also shows the type of connector (plug) that will fit into the socket.

My last two heated garments (Gerbings and Warm&Safe brands) had this type of connector build into their wiring harnesses.

 

D069CC36-8284-4986-8C15-8C4D22CC76F6.thumb.jpeg.eee68540277b4cd8d243cf96bf262540.jpeg

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On 11/15/2019 at 3:54 PM, Bernie said:

 

Good afternoon.

No, these are not the BMW Style sockets, but are the sockets made for this purpose and sold by the Warm&Safe (Heated Garment supplier). They claim it will handle a jacket and a pair of heated gloves with no problem. The harness was supplied with a 15 amp fuse.

It uses a banana style plug, as most of the heated garments makers use nowadays.

The picture below shows the rear of the socket and also shows the type of connector (plug) that will fit into the socket.

My last two heated garments (Gerbings and Warm&Safe brands) had this type of connector build into their wiring harnesses.

 

D069CC36-8284-4986-8C15-8C4D22CC76F6.thumb.jpeg.eee68540277b4cd8d243cf96bf262540.jpeg

Well I was out yesterday for our Clubs Breakfast and it was 30 when I left the house.

 

Off my one pigtail from the battery I was running my OLD Gerbing fat wire socks, pants, and jacket with no issues.  So you guys know these are old with those big fat wires but they wont die.  The socks are nice, and I always wear them when it is cold here in PA.  The gloves I dont wear unless it is way cold as the heated grips and my Held gloves seem to keep me fine.  

 

I am just wondering why the plug above will only handle so little?  It would only run half my clothing.  I mean my dual controller only has one plug so what would one do?

 

I just run mine out from the back seat and use a wire tie to keep it in place and then in summer stash it under the seat.

 

That said I like the clean look of that set up and the ability to still remove the panel if the need arises.

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Hi LAF, you say:

1 hour ago, LAF said:

I am just wondering why the plug above will only handle so little?  It would only run half my clothing. 

I'm not sure I know what you mean. Do you mean the BMW imposed 10A total for accessory sockets, or do you mean the actual power rating of the socket itself?

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I too have the older flat wire Jacket and Gloves, I have run them using the OEM BMW accessory outlet which is 10A on my 14R1200RT .  I was able to find the following chart form 10 years ago, it should be about correct given that I was able to run the jacket and gloves and not blow the 10A max.

 

Product Amperage Watts Condition
Product Amperage Watts Condition
Gloves 2.2 27 Per pair
Insoles 2.2 27 Per pair
Jacket Liner 6.4 77 Each
Pants 3.6 44 Each
Vest 4.5 54

Each

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The order is placed for the parts I need to run direct connections from the battery, just like Bernie's set-up. Looking forward to getting this all sorted out!

 

Thank you, all!

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21 hours ago, AndyS said:

Hi LAF, you say:

I'm not sure I know what you mean. Do you mean the BMW imposed 10A total for accessory sockets, or do you mean the actual power rating of the socket itself?

Yes he said the socket he installed in that little panel would only handle a jacket and gloves.   I was asking why as it would only handle half my heated gear  since I run it all off one pigtail from the battery now.

 

I think all is good now for me. 

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6 hours ago, LAF said:

Yes he said the socket he installed in that little panel would only handle a jacket and gloves.   I was asking why as it would only handle half my heated gear  since I run it all off one pigtail from the battery now.

 

I think all is good now for me. 

Andy and LAF, 
Not trying to confuse the matter any further. The socket I installed is from Warm&Safe and I do not know the max amp rating of it. It came with the standard 15 amp fused battery connector cable, that is supplied with every heated jacket.  
I only have a jacket and a pair of gloves. I don’t know if you could also connect socks and pants to this outlet. 

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