New to me, 2002, R1150RS

[CraigB]

I purchased a 2002 R1150RS a few weeks ago and am going through and performing what maintenance I can do for now. A BMW motorcycle is new to me as most of my life I’ve ridden motocross bikes. I am used to the regular maintenance of changing oil and filters etc.…. Is there any areas I should pay attention to on this particular bike to ensure that it is safe, reliable, and ready to ride?  It has about 39K miles on it and appears to be in great shape. I’ve taken on short runs around the neighborhood and nothing jumps out at me.

 

Any upgrades that make riding this bike more enjoyable?

 

Thanks and any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Craig

[dirtrider]

30 minutes ago, CraigB said:

I purchased a 2002 R1150RS a few weeks ago and am going through and performing what maintenance I can do for now. A BMW motorcycle is new to me as most of my life I’ve ridden motocross bikes. I am used to the regular maintenance of changing oil and filters etc.…. Is there any areas I should pay attention to on this particular bike to ensure that it is safe, reliable, and ready to ride?  It has about 39K miles on it and appears to be in great shape. I’ve taken on short runs around the neighborhood and nothing jumps out at me.

 

Any upgrades that make riding this bike more enjoyable?

 

Thanks and any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Craig

 

 

Evening Craig

 

Does that bike have ABS? If so then definitely you need to service the brake system (bleed & replace the fluid).  On the BMW I-ABS system that   isn't straight forward as those have added fluid reservoirs under the fuel tank.   (it's doable at home but takes some reading to understand what's needed & how to work around the needed tools) 

 

Probably should also change the clutch system fluid (again doable at home but takes a little reading on how to do it)

 

You should also change the transmission gear oil & final drive gear oil just to have a known base line for service done. 

 

Added: you might also look into installing a new alternator belt as those things degrade over time (especially in hot climates). 

[CraigB]

Most of those seam doable to me with the exception of the ABS bleed and fluid replace. Is there a link around that tells/shows how to do this? I do have a Clymer manual and will look in there to see what I can find out.

And the alternator belt. I'm sure it requires a tension gauge of some sort for this install? That I don't have.  

 

thanks for the info.

 

Craig

[TEWKS]

Along with DR's quick answerers here, JVB Productions has a great service video for your bike. These two resources should keep her happily rolling for ya!

[dirtrider]

16 minutes ago, CraigB said:

Most of those seam doable to me with the exception of the ABS bleed and fluid replace. Is there a link around that tells/shows how to do this? I do have a Clymer manual and will look in there to see what I can find out.

And the alternator belt. I'm sure it requires a tension gauge of some sort for this install? That I don't have.  

 

thanks for the info.

 

Craig

 

Evening Craig

 

On the ABS bleed, yes there are a number of on-line I-ABS bleed procedures. I usually don't pay much attention to those so I can't tell you what ones are accurate & what ones to shy away from (I'm sure that someone will post a link for you). If not we can do a write up on the how-to. 

 

On the belt, you have an early 1150 bike so that one doesn't use the later (elastomer) stretchy belt, it uses the older Poly-V belt. You can tension it with a torque wrench on the alternator adjuster by using an 8mm acorn nut or a double nut. Or just use the belt 90° twist at mid belt (I have had better outcome using the belt twist method than the adjuster torque method on the older 1100/1150 bikes). 

[cat0020]

Congrats on the new purchase. 

 

R1150RS is a very capable bike, I just picked up my second one last month after 14 years since my last R1150RS. 

I put 30k miles in 18 months on my last one before selling it. 

 

I would suggest riding it for few thousand miles before looking into modifications. 

Determine for yourself what works for you in stock form before changing anything. 

 

The ABS maintenance can be a pain and the servo-assist can drain the battery unnecessarily, by now the brake lines are over 17 y-o, if they are still OEM brake lines. 

For my recently purchased 02 R1150RS, I've decided to remove the ABS, rid of the servo-assist pump, lose about 6-7 lb. of weight from the bike, near the fuel tank height level. 

Replace the 17 y-o brake lines and just have regular brakes. Those are going to be my winter projects.  

[CraigB]

Thank you for the input. I'm trying to prep for the brake bleed and flush this coming weekend. I hope I can find the 90 degree tubing connector for the bleed screws at the ABS reservoir. 

 

Thanks again,

 

Craig

[Beech]

To get to those bleed screws bend a box end wrench. I cut a socket in half, welded the drive portion to a small Tee handle. Beemerboneyard has a funnel for screwing into the reservoir cap hole to make it easy to add fluid.

[dirtrider]

28 minutes ago, CraigB said:

Thank you for the input. I'm trying to prep for the brake bleed and flush this coming weekend. I hope I can find the 90 degree tubing connector for the bleed screws at the ABS reservoir. 

 

Thanks again,

 

Craig

 

Afternoon Craig

 

You don't need a 90° tubing connector, just push the bleed hose directly on the bleeder nipple (that's all you need there)

 

As for accessing the bleed nipples' with a wrench, personally I use a deep socket to first to break the bleeder screws free (this evenly contacts all 6 bleed screw wrench surfaces).

 

Then  you can use about any wrench to open & close the bleed screws. If you still have an issue getting a wrench on a couple of the bleed screws just unplug the main power connector into the ABS module. Then (important) use duct tape to cover the open electrical connector on the module so no brake fluid enters the ABS module. 

 

Plug the power connector back in & turn key-on  before power bleeding  the wheel-side  circuits. 

 

 

 

 

[CraigB]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon Craig

 

You don't need a 90° tubing connector, just push the bleed hose directly on the bleeder nipple (that's all you need there)

 

As for accessing the bleed nipples' with a wrench, personally I use a deep socket to first to break the bleeder screws free (this evenly contacts all 6 bleed screw wrench surfaces).

 

Then  you can use about any wrench to open & close the bleed screws. If you still have an issue getting a wrench on a couple of the bleed screws just unplug the main power connector into the ABS module. Then (important) use duct tape to cover the open electrical connector on the module so no brake fluid enters the ABS module. 

 

Plug the power connector back in & turn key-on  before power bleeding  the wheel-side  circuits. 

 

Quote

 

 I haven't torn into it yet so I haven't seen it first hand, but I thought that I saw in a video that the bleed nipples came out of the side/back of the reservoir. That would be nice if they were on top. I've seen photos of that too. 

 

cb

 

Just looked closer to my Clymer manual and I see the photos of the top of the module of my bike. Looks a little intimidating.

 

Quote

 

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, CraigB said:

 

Just looked closer to my Clymer manual and I see the photos of the top of the module of my bike. Looks a little intimidating.

 

 

Afternoon CraigB

 

We need to verify what brake system your 2002 1150RS has_

 

Does your bike have the powers assist (wizzy)  brakes?

[CraigB]

Going through the Clymer manual break down of the brakes, I have the Integral ABS system. 

 

cb

[dirtrider]

3 minutes ago, CraigB said:

Going through the Clymer manual break down of the brakes, I have the Integral ABS system. 

 

cb

 

Evening CraigB

 

Don't go by the Clymer as there are some mistakes in the  Clymer. Your 2002RS falls in the grey zone as it can go either way  on brake systems.

 

Do you have power assist brakes???????  With key-on can you hear the servo pumps start to whine when you squeeze the brake lever? 

[CraigB]

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Evening CraigB

 

Don't go by the Clymer as there are some mistakes in the  Clymer. Your 2002RS falls in the grey zone as it can go either way  on brake systems.

 

Do you have power assist brakes???????  With key-on can you hear the servo pumps start to whine when you squeeze the brake lever? 

Yes they are the power assist brakes.

 

The Clymer manual does go through the other non-ABS and the ABS II but when it gets to the Integral ABS it says to refer to a dealership for bleeding and filling. 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, CraigB said:

Yes they are the power assist brakes.

 

The Clymer manual does go through the other non-ABS and the ABS II but when it gets to the Integral ABS it says to refer to a dealership for bleeding and filling. 

 

 

 

 

Morning  CraigB

 

OK, you for sure have the I-ABS system then. 

 

No problem bleeding/replacing the brake fluid on your I-ABS system yourself. The actual full procedure requires a dealer computer but there are workarounds for doing everything yourself. 

 

Bleeding the wheel side (ABS module to calipers) is easy with the only problem is making a fill funnel to keep the ABS module full of fluid during the bleeding. You use the key-on ABS module pump servos  to push the new fluid through  (fuel tank must be removed first)

 

The control side (brake lever & brake pedal to ABS module is also easy with the hardest part there being removing the fuel tank & getting a proper wrench on the angled bleed screws. (fuel tank must be removed first)

[CraigB]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning  CraigB

 

OK, you for sure have the I-ABS system then. 

 

No problem bleeding/replacing the brake fluid on your I-ABS system yourself. The actual full procedure requires a dealer computer but there are workarounds for doing everything yourself. 

 

Bleeding the wheel side (ABS module to calipers) is easy with the only problem is making a fill funnel to keep the ABS module full of fluid during the bleeding. You use the key-on ABS module pump servos  to push the new fluid through  (fuel tank must be removed first)

 

The control side (brake lever & brake pedal to ABS module is also easy with the hardest part there being removing the fuel tank & getting a proper wrench on the angled bleed screws. (fuel tank must be removed first)

Got it. I'm starting to understand the process. I need to get the funnel ordered from Beemerboneyard. And  I now understand that using the servo to bleed the caliper side does pretty much require a good volume of brake fluid.

Is there a written doc that explains the sequence of the bleeding process? I've done a few searches and have not found one so far. And if not I might try to take photos and document the process. 

[dirtrider]

37 minutes ago, CraigB said:

Got it. I'm starting to understand the process. I need to get the funnel ordered from Beemerboneyard. And  I now understand that using the servo to bleed the caliper side does pretty much require a good volume of brake fluid.

Is there a written doc that explains the sequence of the bleeding process? I've done a few searches and have not found one so far. And if not I might try to take photos and document the process. 

 

Morning CraigB

 

You don't need to order a funnel, very easy to make what you need. 

 

Just need a #2 rubber plug (lowes or Home Depot) & a water bottle or something with a stem on it to hold fluid & poke through a hole in the rubber plug.

 

Picture below is what I have used for many years.

 

[dirtrider]

More___ BMW 'control circuits' I-ABS bleed procedure.

 

 

 

Bleed in the following sequence, using front brake lever

 

-- front metering cylinder (1),

--front integral circuit (2),

-- front control circuit (3) --and then

--front metering cylinder (1) for the second time.

 

 

 

Bleed in the following sequence, using rear brake pedal

 

-- rear metering cylinder (1),

-- rear integral circuit (2),

-- rear control circuit (3) -- and then

-- rear metering cylinder (1) for the second time.

 

Use the above controller  picture I posted to determine circuit numbers.

 

Be sure to keep the reservoirs full of fluid during the bleeding process.

 

Put a long clear hose on the controller bleed nipples to vent the used fluid into a  container & away from the motorcycle (brake fluid can really damage the paint & electrical components).

 

Also toss a clean box cutter blade or a clean US quarter (25 cent piece) into the front master cylinder reservoir to keep the squirt-back inside  the reservoir as you pump the lever.

 

Also cover the dash  & painted plastic with plastic garbage bags, or a good plastic tarp,  to prevent damage if some brake fluid gets away from you.

 

Unless you have specialized wrenches you might have  a problem getting on a couple of the controller bleed nipples. If so then remove the main wire harness plug going into the brake controller but BE SURE to use duct tape over the exposed open cavity to keep ALL the brake fluid out of the controller electronics. 

[dirtrider]

More__

 

For wheel circuits-- just install special funnel in the ABS  module reservoir of the end  that you are working with, then turn key on, then work the hand lever (for front brake), or rear brake pedal ( for rear brake) while opening appropriate caliper bleeders.   Just make sure to keep the ABS module reservoirs full during the bleed process.  (put a bleed hose & catch bottle on the bleeder that you are working with as brake fluid is a fantastic paint remover. 

 

If you want to get anal (or follow BMW procedure) then shim the front bake pads back away from the brake rotors during the front wheel circuit bleeding.  

 

Check your messages on the site (I sent you a .pdf on the basics of the service) -- I didn't write it & don't totally follow it but it is a good basic guide on the procedure.

 

Above all get educated then come back here & ask any questions on anything that you don't fully understand. 

[CraigB]

Perfect, That is great. I should be able to get through this now. 

 

Craig

[dirtrider]

Just now, CraigB said:

Perfect, That is great. I should be able to get through this now. 

 

Craig

 

Morning CraigB

 

If you don't fully understand something just ask before proceeding. 

[CraigB]

3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning CraigB

 

If you don't fully understand something just ask before proceeding. 

Attached is a pic of my ABS module. I'd like to verify that these are the two reservoirs?  The two openings where the fluid funnel will be installed. Front and Rear. 

 

cb

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, CraigB said:

Attached is a pic of my ABS module. I'd like to verify that these are the two reservoirs?  The two openings where the fluid funnel will be installed. Front and Rear. 

 

cb

 

 

Afternoon  CraigB

 

Yes, those are the caps on the reservoirs where the fill funnel attaches, the hoses that are on the caps are reservoir vent hoses that exit behind the riders R/F foot peg.

 

If you use something to suck the old fluid out of the reservoirs  (like a turkey baster) be very careful as there are floats inside the reservoirs that can be damaged. 

[CraigB]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  CraigB

 

Yes, those are the caps on the reservoirs where the fill funnel attaches, the hoses that are on the caps are reservoir vent hoses that exit behind the riders R/F foot peg.

 

If you use something to suck the old fluid out of the reservoirs  (like a turkey baster) be very careful as there are floats inside the reservoirs that can be damaged. 

Thanks for the heads up on the floats and verification.

 

cb

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  CraigB

 

Yes, those are the caps on the reservoirs where the fill funnel attaches, the hoses that are on the caps are reservoir vent hoses that exit behind the riders R/F foot peg.

 

If you use something to suck the old fluid out of the reservoirs  (like a turkey baster) be very careful as there are floats inside the reservoirs that can be damaged. 

 

[CraigB]

Whats the down side, if any of not using the wood shims as called out in the process? Could you just slide a thin piece of plastic maybe .010 thick between the pad and the rotor? Why is this done?

 

cb

[szurszewski]

The idea is to keep the pistons all the way in the caliper so that there is as little fluid space in the caliper as possible. Since the caliper is the low point of the system, particularly if the pistons are extended you can push crud and old fluid down into the caliper instead of having it exit at the bleed nipple. 

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, CraigB said:

Whats the down side, if any of not using the wood shims as called out in the process? Could you just slide a thin piece of plastic maybe .010 thick between the pad and the rotor? Why is this done?

 

cb

 

Morning CraigB

 

BMW really never defined the reason for using the special tool to force the front caliper pistons all the way back into the calipers but .010" it nowhere near enough. You need the pistons all the way back into the calipers.

 

My best guess (& the common understanding from others with knowledge) is that forcing the pistons back to a specific position is basically needed to get a proper fluid fill level in the ABS module front reservoir at bleed completion (BMW caliper piston holding  tools have a special adapter for setting correct reservoir fluid level height at completion of brake service ) . It also has the secondary function of forcing more old fluid out during the bleed service. But if this was the main reason (some seem to think so) then why isn't piston push back required on the rear caliper?) It is only required on the front calipers. This alone kind of shoots a hole in the to 'get more junk out' theory as the main reason. 

 

What happens is (if) you don't have the front caliper pistons pushed back into the caliper bores, then fill the ABS module reservoir to the full mark, you now have the reservoir over-full (as the brake caliper pistons are out so hold more fluid volume behind them).

 

This doesn't cause any harm UNTIL your next front tire change. At tire change time the caliper pistons get pushed way/way back to get the wheel off & that then forces the ABS module reservoir to overflow. (ABS module front fill level is to be set with caliper pistons shimmed back to a specific position)

 

Personally, I just leave the brake pads in place then use plastic tapered shims (cut from nylon type plastic)  to hold the brake pad and the caliper piston all the way back into the calipers during the service. Some just use a couple of cedar shingle shims to hold the brake pads & pistons back. 

 

It really doesn't matter what you use as long as it doesn't harm the brake rotor or brake pad & holds the caliper pistons almost fully retracted. Just pry the front brake pads back away from the brake rotor as far as 'easily' possible, then use something between the brake pad & the brake rotor to hold them there (something that won't damage the brake pad or damage the brake rotor).

 

Bottom line, just be sure to set the ABS module front fluid reservoir fluid height with the caliper pistons pushed back as far as possible. The  BMW manual shows to use a special thickness adapter in the piston holding/setting tool with brake pads removed  for reservoir fluid  height setting but I usually just fill the  ABS module  front reservoir to just under the bottom of cap threads with all front caliper pistons shimmed all the way in.  (this way it won't ever overflow with caliper pistons pushed all the way back in at front tire change time, but will have enough residual fluid height to not run low with totally worn out front brake pads)

On the rear brake  it isn't required as the caliper piston doesn't need to get pushed all the way in to get the caliper off plus there is a lot less fluid volume getting pushed back so no reservoir overflow. 

 

 

 

 

[CraigB]

I just finished up with the suggested maintenance from you guys and have a good base line of where the bike is now. I've changed all the fluids in the final drive, tranny, engine oil and filter, flushed the ABS brake system, and  changed the spark plugs.  Before I start installing the tank and shrouds back on the bike I thought I'd ask if there was anything else I should look at before re-assembly?

 

Also I'd like to thank Dirtrider for coaching me through the ABS system. It's wasn't that bad but I can see a lot of places you can screw up.

 

cb

[dirtrider]

22 minutes ago, CraigB said:

I just finished up with the suggested maintenance from you guys and have a good base line of where the bike is now. I've changed all the fluids in the final drive, tranny, engine oil and filter, flushed the ABS brake system, and  changed the spark plugs.  Before I start installing the tank and shrouds back on the bike I thought I'd ask if there was anything else I should look at before re-assembly?

 

Also I'd like to thank Dirtrider for coaching me through the ABS system. It's wasn't that bad but I can see a lot of places you can screw up.

 

cb

 

Afternoon  CraigB

 

While you have it apart this would be great time to install a new fuel filter & a new U-hose inside the fuel tank.  

 

The filter is a good idea as long as you are there but that darn U-hose can split then stop you dead on the road just about instantly. Your bike is old enough to have a fairly degraded U hose. 

 

If you have ever had one of those split or rupture  while riding in the L/H lane of a 4 lane freeway then you wouldn't even be asking about further maintenance with the tank removed .

 

The U hose is special as it is fuel submersible, fuel rated,  high pressure  FI rated (regular fuel hose will not last). You also need FI high pressure rated hose clamps. (regular worm drive hose clamps will fail the hose)

 

 

[CraigB]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  CraigB

 

While you have it apart this would be great time to install a new fuel filter & a new U-hose inside the fuel tank.  

 

The filter is a good idea as long as you are there but that darn U-hose can split then stop you dead on the road just about instantly. Your bike is old enough to have a fairly degraded U hose. 

 

If you have ever had one of those split or rupture  while riding in the L/H lane of a 4 lane freeway then you wouldn't even be asking about further maintenance with the tank removed .

 

The U hose is special as it is fuel submersible, fuel rated,  high pressure  FI rated (regular fuel hose will not last). You also need FI high pressure rated hose clamps. (regular worm drive hose clamps will fail the hose)

 

 

I looked up the U shaped hose real quick and man are they proud of those things! $50.00 + bucks. Wow.

 

Sounds like it should be done though.

 

Thanks,

 

cb

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, CraigB said:

 I looked up the U shaped hose real quick and man are they proud of those things! $50.00 + bucks. Wow.

 

Sounds like it should be done though.

 

Thanks,

 

cb

 

Evening CraigB

 

Yes, it is expensive. SAE 30R10 fuel submersible hose is expensive as even a straight piece of submersible high pressure  from your local auto parts store  is expensive. 

 

Don't forget the needed FI  clamps. 

 

You might also think about a new in-tank pump inlet strainer (intake sock), when a BMW sits for a long time with old fuel in the tank that sock usually degrades, turns crap brown & should be replaced. 

 

You might poke around on Beemer BoneYard web site as they might a have a filter/hose kit available.  I believe they have some sort of flexible SAE 30R10  in-tank fuel hose but I haven't ever used it myself. They definitely have the filter & pump intake sock. Call them as they are super helpful.  They also offer a discount to BMW Sport Touring (this web site)  members.

 

There are also (2) 5mm smaller submersible hoses that run through the inside of the tank (tank vent & filler neck drain), if those are degraded than can empty a good portion of the gasoline inside your fuel tank onto your garage floor overnight. Those darn things are very expensive & very difficult to source outside of BMW dealer. If yours look soft or degraded then they should also be replaced. 

 

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/r81111r1fupu.html

 

Edited November 20, 2019 by dirtrider

[dirtrider]

Evening CraigB

 

More ____

 

Check your messages (PM) on this site as I sent you a picture of the inside of the 2002 1150RS  fuel pump assembly. 

[CraigB]

So after tearing out the pump/filter assembly, and a lot of looking around on line for the U hose and vent hose I guess I've decided to bit the bullet and pay the un-real price for the hoses. $45.00 for the U hose and $56.00 for a 4ft section of the 5mm vent hose. Plus shipping. 

The hoses don't look that bad but for the knowing that they have been replaced and they shouldn't be a problem, I'll pay it. Grand kids will just get less for Christmas!

 

cb

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, CraigB said:

So after tearing out the pump/filter assembly, and a lot of looking around on line for the U hose and vent hose I guess I've decided to bit the bullet and pay the un-real price for the hoses. $45.00 for the U hose and $56.00 for a 4ft section of the 5mm vent hose. Plus shipping. 

The hoses don't look that bad but for the knowing that they have been replaced and they shouldn't be a problem, I'll pay it. Grand kids will just get less for Christmas!

 

cb

 

Afternoon CraigB

 

When you remove  that U hose cut it open (lengthwise) then fold the cut sections open flat, you might be surprised on how the inner liner looks. 

 

On the vent hose-- BMW used to sell that in 1 meter lengths, before you order the 5mm vent hose measure yours to see if you can get the 2 lengths that you need from  1 hose length (where did you that 4" length from?). 

 

I'm not sure on your RS but on the RT 1 meter is not quite long enough for proper install (some have fiddled around & got a 1 meter piece to make 2 hoses but they are then plenty short). 

[CraigB]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon CraigB

 

When you remove  that U hose cut it open (lengthwise) then fold the cut sections open flat, you might be surprised on how the inner liner looks. 

 

On the vent hose-- BMW used to sell that in 1 meter lengths, before you order the 5mm vent hose measure yours to see if you can get the 2 lengths that you need from  1 hose length (where did you that 4" length from?). 

 

I'm not sure on your RS but on the RT 1 meter is not quite long enough for proper install (some have fiddled around & got a 1 meter piece to make 2 hoses but they are then plenty short). 

I measured my vent hoses and I want to add a little extra to the length to make it easier to remove the clamps next time. It was tough to be able to cut the OEM clamps off!  The 1 meter length might be just a bit short so I went with the 4ft from www.euromotoelectrics.com. I'll post up on what I have left and If 1 meter would of worked or not.

 

I also picked up feeler gauges from boneyard and after I get the tank back on I'm going to try and tackle the valves settings. 

 

cb

[dirtrider]

23 hours ago, CraigB said:

I measured my vent hoses and I want to add a little extra to the length to make it easier to remove the clamps next time. It was tough to be able to cut the OEM clamps off!  The 1 meter length might be just a bit short so I went with the 4ft from www.euromotoelectrics.com. I'll post up on what I have left and If 1 meter would of worked or not.

 

I also picked up feeler gauges from boneyard and after I get the tank back on I'm going to try and tackle the valves settings. 

 

cb

 

 

Evening CraigB

 

Good find on that 4" long vent hose. Let us know how it works out for you. 

 

When replacing those vent hoses there are 2 tubes going through the pump pass-through, one is the tank vent & the other one is the fuel fill ring drain. 

 

Those pass-through fittings are metal so the fuel fill ring  pass-through fitting  passes water through it to drain the fill ring area. The fill ring drain fitting in the pump pass-through can rust up inside so make sure that is open & clear of rust before reassembling the hoses & re-installing the pump pass through.

 

You can also use this trait to keep track of what hose goes where as the fill ring drain hose hooks to the rusty one.

[CraigB]

A quick update: After adding a little length to the vent hoses inside the tank, I had about 6.5 inches left over from the 4 ft section of tubing  I bought.  

 

cb

[dirtrider]

7 minutes ago, CraigB said:

A quick update: After adding a little length to the vent hoses inside the tank, I had about 6.5 inches left over from the 4 ft section of tubing  I bought.  

 

cb

 

Thanks Craig

 

That is good to know as the 1 meter BMW hose is just a bit short to get 2 hoses out of.