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Tush

New to Me R1150Rt...

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Tush

Hi All, 

 

Tomorrow I will be picking up a new to me, 02 R1150RT. I Am pretty excited!  I bought the bike last weekend so I’ve had to wait out an excruciatingly long week....but, it’s provided me lots of opportunity to do some reading and watch some videos to learn a little more about these bikes ( both the positives and the negatives).

 

The bike has 60 000 miles on it and seems to be in pretty good condition overall.  It does have the dreaded “now it’s working, now it’s not” ABS Issue so I’ve done lots of research on how to tackle this (most likely and ABSectomy but we shall see).  The purchase price reflects the ABS issue and I was sure to point out the price of a replacement pump/module in my negotiations....

 

Anyway, I’m looking forward to working on it over our long Canadian winter in order to get it on the road for next Spring.  I am sure I will have lots of questions once I get into it!

 

Cheers, 

Tush

 

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RogerC60

You are in exactly the sane situation I was this time last year. I had just bought my first Beemer, an '03 R1150RT. Mine also had ABS troubles and I ended up removing it. Welcome, good luck, and have fun.

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Lowndes

Tush,

 

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the RT!!  Did it come with service records and upgrades like shocks??

 

MUCH good information and advice here by some very experienced and generous people.

 

You might want to invest in a Clymer manual.  The #M503-3 says it covers your bike.  Ebay has them for $35 USD and Amazon says $43 USD.  Wiring diagrams (in color), pictures, torques, settings, capacities, etc.  I refer to mine constantly.

 

 

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Tush

Thanks Very Much, 

 

Yes, it does have some service records from the previous owner. I’ll go through them and have a better look once I pick it up this morning.  Haven’t checked on weather the shocks are stock or upgraded.  
I will definitely pick up the Clymer...I have downloaded the BMW manual for reference as well. 
 

Cheers

Tush

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Lowndes

Yes, I downdloaded the BMW manual as well, three years ago when I got the first BMW.  I may have opened it once, can't remember.  When you get in the middle of fixing or servicing the bike is when you need to look up something and your hands are greasy or just really dirty so you don't really want to get on the keyboard/trackball/touchpad.  The manual is much quicker and is there with you, no batteries required.  My Climer has fingerprints and smudges all thru it, plus a bunch of tabs I've added for quick lookup.

 

A small spiral-bound notebook is a very good investment to keep track of service work, oil changes, tire changes, dates and mileages.

 

If you have the original shocks, at 60K they are well past their sell-by date (Showa's are OK for about the first 30K).  I hope they have been replaced already.

 

The rubber fuel lines inside the fuel tank are a known problem at this age, splitting and shutting down the engine in the worst possible place and time.  If they are original you might get a kit from Beemer Boneyard and replace the lines, sock, and fuel filter.  The rubber lines in the tank need to be "immersion rated" fuel injection hose, usually available from good auto part stores for about $16 per ft.

 

Also, you gotta post some pics when you get back with the bike, "or it didn't happen."

 

 

 

 

 

 

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dirtrider
12 hours ago, Tush said:

Hi All, 

 

Tomorrow I will be picking up a new to me, 02 R1150RT. I Am pretty excited!  I bought the bike last weekend so I’ve had to wait out an excruciatingly long week....but, it’s provided me lots of opportunity to do some reading and watch some videos to learn a little more about these bikes ( both the positives and the negatives).

 

The bike has 60 000 miles on it and seems to be in pretty good condition overall.  It does have the dreaded “now it’s working, now it’s not” ABS Issue so I’ve done lots of research on how to tackle this (most likely and ABSectomy but we shall see).  The purchase price reflects the ABS issue and I was sure to point out the price of a replacement pump/module in my negotiations....

 

Anyway, I’m looking forward to working on it over our long Canadian winter in order to get it on the road for next Spring.  I am sure I will have lots of questions once I get into it!

 

Cheers, 

Tush

 

 

Afternoon Tush

 

A couple of points to consider__

 

If you will be working on that 2002 1150 bike this winter then you might remove the starter, then zip tie the clutch lever to the hand grip, then see if you can reach into the clutch area & rotate the clutch disk on the transmission splines (if you have significant  rotational play of clutch disk to input shaft then suspect that your clutch disk/trans input shaft splines are on borrowed time)  & spline  failure is in your future (this leaves the motorcycle totally without forward drive).

 

The 2002 1150RT was the worst offender for failed splines of the 1150 series. Obviously most didn't fail but a number of 2002 bikes did fail. 

 

The time to address the possible failure is before it leaves you dead on the road far from home.

 

On your ABS brake issues, it might be something simple-- like low fluid level in the under fuel tank ABS module, or a wheel speed sensor wire worn though on the brake rotor, or even sticking brake switch. (what are the dash lights doing when the failure is present?), what lights are flashings, how fast they are flashing, & if flashing together or opposed can tell you a lot about what is causing the problem.  You can also use a GS-911 to get the present & stored  brake failure codes. 

 

Removing the ABS system on the later  1150 (I-ABS) bike gives a very good easy to modulate brake system. On your 2002 1150RT removing the ABS system is still good but will probably leave you with a weak rear brake  as the 2002 bike used a larger piston size in the rear master cylinder. You might (probably will) need to update the rear master cylinder to the smaller piston later model master cylinder to get a responsive rear brake once you remove the ABS system.   

 

 

 

 

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Tush

Hi Guys!  Thanks Again.   Got home a couple of hours ago with the bike and just been admiring it in the garage :cool:

 

Went through the paperwork that came with the bike quickly.  Glad that I have the original riders manual, service and technical booklet, retailer directory and consumer warranty booklets.   Also have most of the original tool kit...looks like the wrenches didn’t make it back into the roll.

 

The bike needs a good cleaning that is for sure...it hasn’t been ridden for a while (not sure how long) as the previous owner had several other bikes to ride as well...I can tell you that the fuel doesn’t smell great.  
 

Ok, brake warning lights.   I’m getting a good initial start up sequence for about 15 seconds.  Initially,   Both lights on..bottom extinguishes, top light flashes at 1 hz.   However, after about 15 seconds, I then get an alternating flash at 1hz.   From what I’ve read, the first thing I should check is fluid level in the pump.  So, I’ll be doing this.  I do plan to go through the entire brake system over the winter anyway and do a flush/fill, new braided lines etc, pads etc .  I’ll try and figure out initially though if adding fluid fixes my current problem.  Who knows, I might get lucky right?

 

The only other odd thing that I have back to report on during my brief initial inspection is that the side stand does not give me enough clearance to get my foot comfortably under the shifter to upshift.   It’s very tight...again, on brief research, it looks like I might be able to move the gear shift level up in its slot a bit.  Foot Pegs are going to be weird for me after having ridden a bike with boards the last little while. 
 

Ok, I’m off to do some cleaning.  I’ll take some photos to post here as I know this thread is meaningless without them :D

 

Thanks DR for the tips..keep em coming. I’ve got a lot to learn!

 

Cheers, 

Tush

 

 

 

 

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dirtrider
1 hour ago, Tush said:

Hi Guys!  Thanks Again.   Got home a couple of hours ago with the bike and just been admiring it in the garage :cool:

 

Went through the paperwork that came with the bike quickly.  Glad that I have the original riders manual, service and technical booklet, retailer directory and consumer warranty booklets.   Also have most of the original tool kit...looks like the wrenches didn’t make it back into the roll.

 

The bike needs a good cleaning that is for sure...it hasn’t been ridden for a while (not sure how long) as the previous owner had several other bikes to ride as well...I can tell you that the fuel doesn’t smell great.  
 

Ok, brake warning lights.   I’m getting a good initial start up sequence for about 15 seconds.  Initially,   Both lights on..bottom extinguishes, top light flashes at 1 hz.   However, after about 15 seconds, I then get an alternating flash at 1hz.   From what I’ve read, the first thing I should check is fluid level in the pump.  So, I’ll be doing this.  I do plan to go through the entire brake system over the winter anyway and do a flush/fill, new braided lines etc, pads etc .  I’ll try and figure out initially though if adding fluid fixes my current problem.  Who knows, I might get lucky right?

 

The only other odd thing that I have back to report on during my brief initial inspection is that the side stand does not give me enough clearance to get my foot comfortably under the shifter to upshift.   It’s very tight...again, on brief research, it looks like I might be able to move the gear shift level up in its slot a bit.  Foot Pegs are going to be weird for me after having ridden a bike with boards the last little while. 
 

Ok, I’m off to do some cleaning.  I’ll take some photos to post here as I know this thread is meaningless without them :D

 

Thanks DR for the tips..keep em coming. I’ve got a lot to learn!

 

Cheers, 

Tush

 

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Tush

 

On the shift lever position , you can adjust that slightly using the adjustment link but (personally) I was never able to get a good shift lever adjustment on any of my 1150 bikes  that allowed easy upshifts AND easy downshifts.

 

I definitely wanted the downshift to be easier/quicker/less foot movement  than the upshift as a quick downshift is REALLY handy in an emergency situation.

 

So, I would adjust the shift lever to allow effortless down shifts then just use the side of my boot (top of sole) to catch the outside of the shift lever for upshifts. (you really don't want to have to lift your foot off the peg  to get it on the shift lever for a quick downshift).

 

You might ride the bike as is for a while before adjusting the shift lever as it apparently worked OK for the last owner so you will probably get used to it where it is now. 

 

Just be very  careful if you adjust that the lever doesn't top out or bottom out in the slot on a hard a hard shift.

 

If you do decide to make an adjustment then that would be a good time to remove the shift link retaining  clips (those MUST come out) , then rewove the shift link,  then clean & grease the balls & sockets as that goes a l-o-o-o-o-n-g way towards smother shifting. 

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EvilTwin

Did I miss the pics?:14:

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Bill_Walker

FWIW, I had the Clymer, Haynes and BMW manuals, and I found the Haynes was the most useful.  I'd usually print out the page from the BMW manual that had the bleed sequence for the ABS module, and the service schedule page to tick things off, but hardly used it otherwise.

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Tush

Pics are coming, I promise :classic_rolleyes:

 

Just spent 4 hours cleaning it...it’s coming up nicely.   I don’t think the rims had been cleaned for about 4 years....what a huge difference it makes just getting those cleaned up. 
 

DR, I’ll take some pics of the side stand /gear lever as it is today...there has to be something wrong...I think the stand might be bent (or at least the little hoop area where you put your heal on it to kick it down).

 

I might just also be the luckiest guy (at the least the luckiest R1150RT guy)alive today...I think I found my brake problem already.  As mentioned, lights were flashing back and forth possibly indicating a low fluid situation. So, fluid has to go somewhere. Checked the front a rear lines and found a small leak in the line at the rear close to the banjo fitting.  I could see it leaking when the brake was applied...so, new braided lines will be on order as well as new pads etc...hopefully, that might solve the issue. 
 

Checked the shocks...I can only see a label on the front one...it’s made by Showa...sounds like these might be the stock shocks?

 

Cheers

Tush

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Tush

Ok...pics of my side stand in the up position...anyone care to provide pics of theirs?  Mine cannot be right....

 

Cheers, 

Tush

 

 

C9789FBE-0DCC-4B29-ABB7-0D6F2DAD42B6.jpeg

68ADA18D-26AC-4703-81E6-1C92FFAF4088.jpeg

E6337E8E-B347-4C38-91F6-364EF27A1DFF.jpeg

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Lowndes

 

Tush,

 

Sorry this took so long.  This is my '99 R1100RT.  I've not had any problem with the side stand interfering with the shifter.  I do have to be very precise getting my size 13 in to extend the side stand.  There seems to be about  1" gap between the top of the shifter loop and the side of the bike.  You might need to adjust your loop.

 

The PO may have replaced the original shocks with the same BMW shocks, but then they would still be old.

 

k6U1qpNZ__QvmEAk9Xl8vVEeqZU02EIuxz15QMzW

6vdzytP5f8GH-HjRVwG0N4_j0zF6QeN1ESdBO-c0RLZPPPp8gyz6dMCP97DUcCAdJ9zmVBQ6ym92cbrW

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Tush

Lowndes, 

 

Thanks for the reply.  It looks like you have attached some photos for me but I am unable to view them...is it just me?

 

Cheers

Tush

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EvilTwin

It looks like the extension wire on the side stand may have gotten bent.  When the side stand is down, does it hold up the bike OK?  It should be out mostly straight not up in-between the peg and shifter.

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Tush

Hi ET, 

 

Yes,  the side stand seems to work ok.  So,  the extension wire, is it supposed to be pretty tight up against the lower fairing then?

 

Cheers

Tush

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EvilTwin

Looked at a few more pix online, it should be sitting closer to the body so it doesnt interfere with the shifter.  

BMW R1150RT.jpg

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dirtrider
12 hours ago, Tush said:

Ok...pics of my side stand in the up position...anyone care to provide pics of theirs?  Mine cannot be right....

 

Cheers, 

Tush

 

 

C9789FBE-0DCC-4B29-ABB7-0D6F2DAD42B6.jpeg

 

 

 

Morning Tush

 

Something is bent there, you can probably stick a pry bar or piece of pipe in that loop & bend it in closer to the side plate. 

 

Does the side stand look OK when deployed with motorcycle resting on it? 

 

 

1150RT.2.JPG

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Lowndes
12 hours ago, Tush said:

Lowndes, 

 

Thanks for the reply.  It looks like you have attached some photos for me but I am unable to view them...is it just me?

 

Cheers

Tush

 

Try this link.  These are in Google Photos.  

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SqukXyK3ud3y2CY38

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Tush

Morning guys.  Thanks again for the responses and pics.  Very helpful. 
 

This morning I was up bright and early out in the garage and finished up some cleaning and removed about 6-7 silly stickers the guy had on the bike..then gave the bike a quick wax.  I’ll do more once I get around to removing Tupperware when I get into doing the brake work.   I’ve got the bike moved outside the garage this morning in the sun so I’ll take some pictures now that it’s cleaned up and looking 100 per cent better in my mind. 
 

Ok, so I did fix the side stand this morning.   I heated the two little attachment points for the kicker part to the main stand and bent them up into the correct position.  While I was there I rubbed the stand down with a red scotchbrite pad and shot it with a coat of primer and a couple coats of black. Looks better now.  I’ll check out might foot position once I have let it dry a little longer.  
 

Pics soon. 
 

Cheers

Tush
 

 

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Tri750

Couple things .

when you start the bike , the correct way is to key up and wait a couple seconds for the brake light to flash or change flash patterns (if it will with that leak) then hit the starter with both hand and foot off the lever/pedal.

you have probably read all about needing a good battery to make the ABS happy. 

 

afer you bend the stand hoopy thing back, be sure you are  using your heel to deploy the stand , not your toe. 

 

I also have a size 13 foot and found that installing a shift lever extension helped greatly especially as I'm getting a bit of arthritis in my left ankle making it less flexible. 

Its a aluminum tube that friction fits over the shift lever rubber making the business end a bit longer allowing my giant hoof to get under the shifter much easier. 

It doesn't get in the way or snag on things at all. 

New they are 30-40 US.

I bought a used shifter on ebay from an RS or something that had one on it for less than 20 US .

Very  unlike me to look for and find a bargain. 

Try and avoid making a list of sweeping changes on the bike until you get some miles on it. 

The internet will insist you need to change 15 things before your first ride . Take it slow and as you get miles on it make mental notes about the screen, seat, seat being too tilted down in front or not, handlebars a bit far away, etc etc. 

 

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Tush

Good Morning Tri, 

 

Thanks for verifying the start up sequence.  That’s exactly what I’ve been doing.   And, yes with the brake line weeping and thus the low fluid, I’m getting the alternating lights. 
 

I did fix the hoop this morning so all is good there.   Fortunately, I’ve only got size 9 feet so should be ok without the shift lever extension but good to know if need be. 
 

No sweeping changes planned except for the brake overhaul over the winter.   Once I get to ride it in the Spring I’ll have a better idea of next steps....who knows, I may not even like the bike once I ride it (although this is doubtful).  
 

Cheers, 

Tush 

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Tush

Ok, Hot Off  the Presses!
 

 

E27B2088-350F-4BE5-84D2-722FFAA47EA5.jpeg

4FFEEF14-5616-47E6-AFC0-49176D72B447.jpeg

81216E36-0FEB-46BA-954E-7447919F75CD.jpeg

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Tush

Part 2

112778E4-DBD0-4C44-8106-20D9D9D46EED.jpeg

ECCE5E09-2672-4A73-9CD2-C6D6C074FB91.jpeg

CC6A1316-47DF-4B74-B32B-63252B8A9FD8.jpeg

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dirtrider
20 minutes ago, Tri750 said:

Couple things .

when you start the bike , the correct way is to key up and wait a couple seconds for the brake light to flash or change flash patterns (if it will with that leak) then hit the starter with both hand and foot off the lever/pedal.

you have probably read all about needing a good battery to make the ABS happy. 

 

 

Morning Tri750

 

You don't need hand & foot off the brake lever/foot pedal for starting on the BMW I-ABS system bikes. If they needed to be started this way then how would you ever start the bike on a  hill or grade?

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Tush
4 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Tri750

 

You don't need hand & foot off the brake lever/foot pedal for starting on the BMW I-ABS system bikes. If they needed to be started this way then how would you ever start the bike on a  hill or grade?

 

I’m new to all this, but one video I watched said if you are starting on a hill, leave the bike in gear, turn the key on and let it go through it’s self test, then move it out of gear, apply brakes, then start the bike....

 

Weather there’s truth to this, I don’t know. 
 

Cheers

Tush 

 

 

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dirtrider
43 minutes ago, Tush said:

 

I’m new to all this, but one video I watched said if you are starting on a hill, leave the bike in gear, turn the key on and let it go through it’s self test, then move it out of gear, apply brakes, then start the bike....

 

Weather there’s truth to this, I don’t know. 
 

Cheers

Tush 

 

 

 

Morning Tush

 

That was probably referring to the older 1100 ABS-2 system as that ABS system had a latching low voltage fault. (once it saw low voltage it would lock the ABS & flash the dash lights until a new self test is run at key-on  with higher system voltage.

 

On your 1150 I-ABS system there is no low voltage lock out & most of the self testing is done after engine starting & ride off. (very few ABS issues on the I-ABS systems due to low battery voltage as the ABS servos are powered directly from the rear of the alternator  (B+) terminal).

 

It can still fault at a low system (low battery) voltage but it won't lock out, it will simply return to normal operation as soon as it sees proper system voltage again. 

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Tush

Thank You DR.  Knowledge is good!

 

Cheers

Tush

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DerekK

Hi there, a little after the fact. Did you ever do the clutch on this bike. The reason i ask is that have an 02 model with 33k and am thinking of going in and greasing the splines.  While I there I was going to change the clutch with the newer hub to engage more of the splines. 

 

Regards

Derek 

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Tush

Hi Derek, 

 

Thats a very good question.    I haven’t done anything to the bike as of yet other than clean it and polish it. 
 

The bike came with a few maintenance records but with lots of gaps.  Looks like they end at about the 48000 mile mark...the bike now has 61000. 
 

I live in Canada so the bike is now put away until the Spring so I can work on other projects.  However,  I have put some thought into what I’ll be doing this Spring before I put it on the road for the first time...here’s my list so far. 
 

New Tires

New Braided brake lines

New Air Filter

Engine Oil and Filter

Trans Oil

Final Drive Oil 

Full ABS flush

Clutch Fluid

Brake Pads

New Fog Light (I have the right side out)

Flush the Fuel Tank.  Replace filter and lines. 

 

As for the clutch and splines...I really haven’t decided.   I’ll do all of the above to get back to a good baseline for maintenance during my ownership.  I may want to just ride the bike for a bit before getting into what I consider to be a more major undertaking.  I have to agree though, it will get to me in the end not knowing if the splines are lubed and/or the clutch has been replaced with the upgraded one.   So, it will get done, just not sure of the timing at the moment!

 

Cheers

Tush

 

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DerekK

Tush,

Sounds like a good list. Might want to look at the disks also to check surface and trueness. 

 

Also see pics of my shifter. You also have an adjuster to change the height. Was t sure if you were still working on that. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Regards

Derek

DFED1158-6C60-45CF-A60A-C00CED8DA2CC.jpeg

C65A744A-C62C-426A-9190-072E195E4ED2.jpeg

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Redman

Tush,

 

I too am a guy with no previous BMW experience that then got an 02 R1150RT.

 

My advise to you is to learn about the transmission input shaft splines and the splined hub on the clutch disc.

I see that DR has already started a discussion of that (Nov 1).

I suggest you move that up on your priority list.

 

 

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Tush

Hi Derek, 

 

Yes, I have the equipment to check the run out on the disk and to check on the rotor thickness according to spec. 
 

I have corrected my side stand issue thanks. All is well now. 
 

Cheers

Tush

 

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Tush

Evening Redman, 

 

Thanks for your input.  Yes, I have been doing lots of reading on the Spline issue.   I’ll add the spline check through the starter opening to my Spring maintenance list.   I’ll definitely be back in a few months with some measurements and probably a video to share in order to get the groups input.  
 

Cheers

Tush

 

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Tush
On 11/13/2019 at 10:39 AM, Tush said:

Hi Derek, 

 

Thats a very good question.    I haven’t done anything to the bike as of yet other than clean it and polish it. 
 

The bike came with a few maintenance records but with lots of gaps.  Looks like they end at about the 48000 mile mark...the bike now has 61000. 
 

I live in Canada so the bike is now put away until the Spring so I can work on other projects.  However,  I have put some thought into what I’ll be doing this Spring before I put it on the road for the first time...here’s my list so far. 
 

New Tires

New Braided brake lines

New Air Filter

Engine Oil and Filter

Trans Oil

Final Drive Oil 

Full ABS flush

Clutch Fluid

Brake Pads

New Fog Light (I have the right side out)

Flush the Fuel Tank.  Replace filter and lines. 

 

As for the clutch and splines...I really haven’t decided.   I’ll do all of the above to get back to a good baseline for maintenance during my ownership.  I may want to just ride the bike for a bit before getting into what I consider to be a more major undertaking.  I have to agree though, it will get to me in the end not knowing if the splines are lubed and/or the clutch has been replaced with the upgraded one.   So, it will get done, just not sure of the timing at the moment!

 

Cheers

Tush

 

Well, finally getting to work on my bike in order to get it ready for the road.  I’m doing the basics to get back to a baseline as far as maintenance is concerned as there were no good records or history that was passed along when I bought the Bike last November.  
I’m trying to learn as much as possible about the bike and will be doing as much work as I can on it.  I’ve started a series of videos on it and uploaded part one yesterday.  Part two will be uploaded later this evening.   I muddling my way through it. :whistle:

 

Anyway, I thought I’d post a link to the videos here if anyone is interested.    By all means, if you see me doing something very stupid, you can call me on it...constructive criticism is welcome....
 

 

Cheers

Tush

 

 

 

 

 

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Warren Dean
40 minutes ago, Tush said:

Well, finally getting to work on my bike in order to get it ready for the road.  I’m doing the basics to get back to a baseline as far as maintenance is concerned as there were no good records or history that was passed along when I bought the Bike last November.  
I’m trying to learn as much as possible about the bike and will be doing as much work as I can on it.  I’ve started a series of videos on it and uploaded part one yesterday.  Part two will be uploaded later this evening.   I muddling my way through it. :whistle:

 

Anyway, I thought I’d post a link to the videos here if anyone is interested.    By all means, if you see me doing something very stupid, you can call me on it...constructive criticism is welcome....
 

 

Cheers

Tush

 

 

 

 

 

Have fun. Owning a BMW is a journey.  😀

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Tush

Part Two

 

 

Cheers

Tush

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Brucifer1150

Haven't had time to watch both videos, but that's my critique at the moment: 30 minutes is a long time.

 

My suggestion: Break each task into it's own video. An overview video, a tupperware removal video, a fuel tank removal video, ect....

Granted, I am not the one doing all the work involved with editing and posting and such, but I would like to see a 'create-your-own-repair' series of videos. Want to remove the charcoal canister? Watch the Tupperware Removal video, followed by the Charcoal Canister Removal one. Starter replacement? Tupperware Removal followed by Starter Replacement. Already know how to remove the tupperware and the gas tank?? Jump right to the ABS Bleeding one. HES replacement? Tupperware, Alternator Belt, HES Replacement. Each video can be strung together as needed. Each video being detailed down to the tool size need for the job. One repair job - one video. They will be different lengths depending on the severity of the job, but not longer than they need to be.

 

Just a thought.

 

BTW, I have a recently purchased 2002 RT also. Just haven't had the time to do a proper introduction.

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Miguel!

Tush, Thanks for video'ing this interesting restoral process.

 

One thing you might consider is removing the carbon EVAP canister. I can't remember where I saw it done but it was YouTube, maybe Chris Harris. He has several rants about its terrible design and removing it. This is the time to do it while you've got the seat and fairing off.  If I can find it, I'll post it later. 

 

Keep going. Thanks for taking the time.

 

Best

Miguel

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Brucifer1150
6 hours ago, Miguel! said:

Tush, Thanks for video'ing this interesting restoral process.

 

One thing you might consider is removing the carbon EVAP canister. I can't remember where I saw it done but it was YouTube, maybe Chris Harris. He has several rants about its terrible design and removing it. This is the time to do it while you've got the seat and fairing off.  If I can find it, I'll post it later. 

 

Keep going. Thanks for taking the time.

 

Best

Miguel

 

 

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Tush

Hi Brucifer, 

 

Yes, I’m aware of the canister delete....

 

For now, I’m going to play it safe and keep all my emissions systems in place as I still need to get the bike registered and plated. In order for this to happen, it has to be inspected and certified...I don’t want it to fail inspection...It’s something I can look at afterwards.  

 

Cheers

Tush 

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Tush

Part Three is out. 
 

This ones shorter Brucifer :)

 


Cheers

Tush

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Miguel!

Thanks for the video Tush. I'm looking forward to the next video as well.

 

What will you do with the old gas you put out of the gas tank? 

Miguel

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Tush

I think I’ll use it in the lawnmower 😉

 

Cheers

Tush

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Miguel!

OK. But then you have to maintain the lawn mower because of the old gas you put in it. Also 5-6 gallons of gas will take years to go through in a lawn mower. This wouldn't work for me since we don't have a lawn (and haven't for 25+ years) so no lawn mower. ...Or is "using it in the lawn mower" code for an unconventional, non-ecological method for disposing old gas.

 

Once again, thanks for taking the time to take and edit the video. 

Miguel

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Tush

Well, completed the wheel circuit and control circuit bleeding procedure on the ABS brakes today and first of all, I’m happy to report I didn’t break anything....

 

Actually, I seemed to have fixed my ABS fault that was present when I purchased the bike (for cheap because of this issue).   I had alternating warning lights on the dash...after the bleed and a new rear brake line, I have fixed the issue ( I think) as I now only have the one light blinking and my understanding is that this will extinguish (or should) when I ride away....

 

Cheers

Tush

 

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Tush

Here’s Part Four

 

 

 

 

Cheers

Tush

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Tush

And....Part Five


 

 


Cheers

Tush

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Tush

Part 6 is out...

 

 

Cheers

Tush

 

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Miguel!

Tush, back on part 4, you indicated that the float was for determining the fuel level. According to Chris Harris on his Patreon channel and refurbishing an R1100RT, the float is the use to turn on the low fuel level light on the Rider Information Display. The actual fuel gauge is in the sending unit which you have left in the tank. BTW, his segment of the gas tank and all the innards was excellent. I finally understood all the hoses and the fuel flow. He strongly recommended replacing the U-hose even tho its $50+ from BMW because if it fails, the bike stops and it's not an easy roadside repair. He used bulk fuel hose for the other hoses. 

 

BTW, Chris uses those "old style" clamps as you call them and has a special BMW crimping tool for them. He likes them better than the screw-type clamps because they can't unscrew due to vibration or not getting them on tight enough in the first place (IIRC). Again, IIRC, he used an awl to spread the clamps apart, not side cutters. That might have prevented you from breaking the plastic tip on the fuel pump because it was taking all the stress you were applying to the clamp. Too bad that happened but as you said, its just money but a PITA. 

 

Thanks for the excellent videos. 

Miguel

 

 

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