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Fuel leak/O-ring replacement


MBrockman5

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Does anyone have (or know of) a step-by-step guide or instructions on how to replace the fuel line connector O-rings? 

 

I noticed a gas smell after riding it and some residue visible on the left side of the fairing. When I removed the tupperware when installing my Rigid lights, I saw some fuel on the side of the tank and on the top of the fuel pump. 

 

I researched online and looked through the file of records that came with my newly purchased 07 RT, and saw that the previous/original owner had the fuel pump recall repair performed with the added metal collar, but my bike is still leaking fuel. So, I'm assuming the issue is the O-rings that I've read about. I'm just not sure how to change it/them

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31 minutes ago, MBrockman5 said:

Does anyone have (or know of) a step-by-step guide or instructions on how to replace the fuel line connector O-rings? 

 

I noticed a gas smell after riding it and some residue visible on the left side of the fairing. When I removed the tupperware when installing my Rigid lights, I saw some fuel on the side of the tank and on the top of the fuel pump. 

 

I researched online and looked through the file of records that came with my newly purchased 07 RT, and saw that the previous/original owner had the fuel pump recall repair performed with the added metal collar, but my bike is still leaking fuel. So, I'm assuming the issue is the O-rings that I've read about. I'm just not sure how to change it/them

 

Afternoon  MBrockman5

 

Don't discount the fact that the fuel pump assembly boss is the reason for the leak. I know of a number of 1200RT's that leaked later due to a cracked fuel pump outlet boss after the recall ring was installed. You just can't see the crack once the reinforcement ring is installed. Remember that most dialers just installed that reinforcement ring even if there was a small crack in the plastic boss. 

 

The other place for a leak is the outlet fitting having a small crack (I have seen a few of these also).

 

You need to carefully inspect the fuel pump area to determine EXACTLY where the leak is actually coming from, if it is in fact an "O" ring then you will need to remove the old one & install a new one (I use a small bent wire with a pointed hook to remove the old one) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I finally had time to remove the tupperware and look for/at the leak. From what I saw, it's leaking from this 90° connector. Not from the fuel line connection, but where it snaps in.

 

I pushed that metal tab when I was wiping it off and it popped up. I pushed in it until the tab snapped out, but it's still leaking. 

 

What are my options/next steps to resolve this?

 

The nearest BMW repair shop (A&S Motorsports in Roseville, CA.) said it'll be around $850 if it's not related to the recall repair they performed a few years back, which is a little too much for me to spend at the moment. 

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3 minutes ago, MBrockman5 said:

So I finally had time to remove the tupperware and look for/at the leak. From what I saw, it's leaking from this 90° connector. Not from the fuel line connection, but where it snaps in.

 

I pushed that metal tab when I was wiping it off and it popped up. I pushed in it until the tab snapped out, but it's still leaking. 

 

What are my options/next steps to resolve this?

 

The nearest BMW repair shop (A&S Motorsports in Roseville, CA.) said it'll be around $850 if it's not related to the recall repair they performed a few years back, which is a little too much for me to spend at the moment. 

 

 

 

 

 

Evening  MBrockman5

 

If it IS the 90° fitting then you can probably install these parts. 

 

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdisconr12.html

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Thank you dirtrider. I apologize if this is a "duh🤨" question, but does that kit come with instructions, or is it pretty self explanatory? 

 

I've been learning quite a bit about these bikes by doing my own work. Not only does it help with the learning aspect, but after being told it would be $850+, it's definitely "maintained my wallet weight".

 

My old bike was a 1995 Honda Magna and it developed a fuel leak as well. It had 4 carbs and one of them had a float bowl problem or something like that. It would've cost me $1200 in labor (at least), not including parts. So when my RT started leaking fuel, my heart sank and I've been paranoid and very discouraged that I might be in the same boat as my old Magna. Especially since I JUST got this bike...

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You can replace just the o-ring in the plastic fittings. However it must be exactly the right size. I carefully measured the old one and got the closest one I could find, and it was too big.

Ended up getting the Beemer boneyard quick disconnect set. In hindsight, I could have just piped it up with generic fittings and not have the quick disconnect feature.

Never had the tank off on 12 years.

 

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11 hours ago, MBrockman5 said:

Thank you dirtrider. I apologize if this is a "duh🤨" question, but does that kit come with instructions, or is it pretty self explanatory? 

 

I've been learning quite a bit about these bikes by doing my own work. Not only does it help with the learning aspect, but after being told it would be $850+, it's definitely "maintained my wallet weight".

 

My old bike was a 1995 Honda Magna and it developed a fuel leak as well. It had 4 carbs and one of them had a float bowl problem or something like that. It would've cost me $1200 in labor (at least), not including parts. So when my RT started leaking fuel, my heart sank and I've been paranoid and very discouraged that I might be in the same boat as my old Magna. Especially since I JUST got this bike...

 

Morning  MBrockman5  

 

I really don't know. You will probably have to call Beemer Boneyard Customer Service: (973) 775-3495  12pm-5pm EST Mon-Fri & ask them.

 

It should be pretty straight forward as you just remove the present fittings then replace with the ones from the kit. (use sealer on the threads)

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The oring is easily nicked if you do not hole the push tab in while you insert the fitting. Also lube the oring with a bit of grease so it will slide in. I could not tell from your photos (and written words) if it is the oring/fitting or the flange where the fitting is inserted.

The flange in the pump housing is where the female portion of the fitting goes and the installation of this female fitting can crack the pump boss/flange area quite easily. Thus the need for the reinforcement ring. Some teflon thread sealant is needed when installing the female part of the fitting which makes it quite easy to insert it too far. Stop when it starts to snug up. Since this was a recall I would ask specifically if this can be done under the recall. It is not particularly hard to install on yourself. Buy a Haynes manual for the bike.

There is a thread in another section:

 

Someone says (which I believe) the recall is still valid.

I just found my bag of 100 viton orings for these quick connects. Size 11

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There is this video looks like an easy job I will be doing mine over the winter , even tho my fuel smell has gone away with some miles I figure it will return. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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MBrock - It's so easy even a caveman can do it. I did mine a few months ago, getting that clamp off was the hardest part.  Comes with instructions.  Prior to this the only mechanical work I had done on a bike was change light bulbs and oil changes. I am not gifted like that.:)  Mine would have been covered by a warranty but it was 3 weeks for an appointment at the dealer. I didn't want to wait that long, so did it myself.

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Got the new connectors installed. It wasn't very difficult at all. At first, I was only planning on replacing the leaking connector, but since it was relatively easy, I figured I might as well do it all at once since I had the bike disassembled. I'll give it until tonight or tomorrow before I test everything and make sure it all works correctly. 

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12 minutes ago, MBrockman5 said:

Got the new connectors installed. It wasn't very difficult at all. At first, I was only planning on replacing the leaking connector, but since it was relatively easy, I figured I might as well do it all at once since I had the bike disassembled. I'll give it until tonight or tomorrow before I test everything and make sure it all works correctly. 

 

 

 

Afternoon MBrockman5

 

Looks neat & tidy, good job.

 

While you have that area  open  you might pull the fill-cap drain hose off the pump passthrough fitting (smaller hose in your picture) then squirt some WD-40 in the open steel fitting. (WD-40 should run out on L/H side of bike at about front of transmission area)

 

I have seen a number of those drain hose fittings plugged  up with rust  from water remaining in the fitting then rusting it shut. 

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Well... After a round-trip San Francisco commute yesterday, I am happy to say that everything is working great. There was no fuel all over my left side tupperware or saddle bag. And surprisingly, my gas mileage improved significantly. My gas light didn't come on until I was only a couple miles from my house. Where as, before, I'd fill up before I left and have to fill up again about half way home (averaging 200-215 miles). Now I'm getting about 250+ miles to a tank (not sure if that's normal for these bikes).... All in all, I'm happy not to be smelling gas while I'm riding. :18:

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