Replace Driveshaft on '04 RT?

[Bob_1978]

My bike has 48k miles and suddenly started over-revving and making a horrible rattling / grinding noise while out riding last weekend.  Even with the engine off, it makes a grinding noise if pushed with the clutch in.  No noise if pushed in neutral.  Had it towed back home.

 

My local (non-dealer) mechanic think it's a failed driveshaft.  He tells me BMW doesn't make them anymore but can get a used part for ~$600.  Looking at $2,500 with labor/installation.  Also tells me the bike is as valuable as a brick without it.

 

Time to scrap it and move on?  I'd like to think I could get another 40k on the bike as it's been properly maintained so far...

 

Would love to hear opinions / other experiences...

[Skywagon]

one of the more experienced folks will chime in likely tomorrow.  I wouldn't panic.  Beemer boneyard often has them for $2-300, EBAY has a few from time to time.  Beemerboneyard is highly reputable...EBAY seller who knows...  Stay tuned for an expert to answer..

 

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, Bob_1978 said:

My bike has 48k miles and suddenly started over-revving and making a horrible rattling / grinding noise while out riding last weekend.  Even with the engine off, it makes a grinding noise if pushed with the clutch in.  No noise if pushed in neutral.  Had it towed back home.

 

My local (non-dealer) mechanic think it's a failed driveshaft.  He tells me BMW doesn't make them anymore but can get a used part for ~$600.  Looking at $2,500 with labor/installation.  Also tells me the bike is as valuable as a brick without it.

 

Time to scrap it and move on?  I'd like to think I could get another 40k on the bike as it's been properly maintained so far...

 

Would love to hear opinions / other experiences...

 

 

Evening Bob

 

Could be a drive shaft but it sounds more like stripped clutch splines. If it is a drive shaft then check E-Bay or  Beemer Boneyard as Skywagon mentioned.

[Jim Moore]

It sounds like stripped clutch splines to me too. Sorry. Whether it's the driveshaft or the input splines that's a multi-thousand dollar noise if you have it repaired at a shop. A driveshaft is a pretty easy DIY fix. Buy an eBay driveshaft and install it. Clutch splines are not as simple, but well within reach of an experienced home mechanic. 

[AndyS]

This is sad news as I have never heard of an '04 gearbox input spline failing. Have you?

It does indeed sound like it.

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, AndyS said:

This is sad news as I have never heard of an '04 gearbox input spline failing. Have you?

It does indeed sound like it.

 

Morning Andy

 

I personally know of one 2004 1150RT spline failure and a couple of 2004 1150GS spline failures. A number of reported 2003 1150RT spline failures & those are about the same bike as the 2004 bikes.

   

[Lowndes]

Bob,

 

You can pull the sarter motor (two bolts and two wires) and see the tranny input splines with a small flashlight.  You can only see the tranny shaft splines as they enter the clutch friction plate female spline but IF that is your problem there should be ample shavings and bits all around.  It will just be dingy and dusty if that spline is not your problem.

 

If it is the "clutch spline" failure, a good used tranny from ebay or BBY and a Siebenrock NON oil-proof clutch disc ($105 at BBY) would get you going.  I would seriously consider one of the newer clutch discs with the extended splines as a preventive measure for future problems here.  

 

Removing the tranny sounds daunting, I know,  but it's just nuts and bolts.  There are vids of the whole thing, Chris Harris has a good one.  The  "short cut" method will save time and anguish by removing the tail section in one piece (driveshaft, paralever, FD) , but if you want to inspect and lube the splines and pivot bearings it requires disassembly anyway.

 

Got some room in the garage or basement??  It's going to be cold very soon.

[Lowndes]

That's the "starter hole" just left of dead center with the big ring gear.  You'll have to get down and look slightly up at the input shaft.  Look for shavings and fresh bits in the bottom of the clutch housing, too.

 

 

[dirtrider]

Morning Bob

 

You can probably get some idea on what is causing the horrible rattling / grinding in a couple of easy ways without initial disassembly. 

 

First, with a warm engine & rear brake held on HARD,  then at idle  try releasing the clutch in 5th gear (listen closely to the  rattling / grinding sound).

 

Then try the same (same engine idle RPM)  in 1st gear  (listen closely to the  rattling / grinding sound).

 

If the  (rattling / grinding sound) sounds the same in both 5th gear & 1st gear  then it isn't the drive shaft as that spins at a different speed (different RPM)  when in 1st gear vs being in 5th gear.  That pretty well points to stripped splines.

 

If the (rattling / grinding sound)  sounds significantly different between 1st & 5th gear then a good possibility the problem is post trans output shaft & that would be in the drive shaft or final drive area.

 

Or, one step deeper, you can remove the transmission upper fill plug then while looking at the transmission gears through the upper fill plug hole & with trans in 6th gear (clutch engaged)  have someone spin the rear wheel. If you see the gears spin inside the transmission then the drive shaft is still  back driving the transmission OK but if you 'can' turn the rear wheel then the  engine isn't stopping it so you are losing drive between the transmission & the engine (that is almost always the transmission input shaft & clutch plate splines stripped out.   

 

 

[Bob_1978]

Thanks to all who advised!  Towed the bike to Vallentine Motor Works in Seattle and they tell me it's a complete transmisstion failure.  $2,000 estimate and maybe another $500 if they need the plates that are part of the system.  It's a brick without the repair so I'm biting the bullet on this one.

 

I do trust Vallentine based on prior experience and will never take the bike to an authorized dealer after many bad experiences with BMW of Cambridge in the Boston area.

 

 

[Bob_1978]

6 minutes ago, Bob_1978 said:

Thanks to all who advised!  Towed the bike to Vallentine Motor Works in Seattle and they tell me it's a complete transmisstion failure.  $2,000 estimate and maybe another $500 if they need the plates that are part of the system.  It's a brick without the repair so I'm biting the bullet on this one.

 

I do trust Vallentine based on prior experience and will never take the bike to an authorized dealer after many bad experiences with BMW of Cambridge in the Boston area.I

 

6 minutes ago, Bob_1978 said:

I am obviously NOT a DIY person but admire all of you who are!  Maybe in my next life...getting the tupperware off and changing my own oil is as far as I'll go! 

 

 

[dan cata]

So just change the gearbox for 500$ and a couple of hours of work... I would not repair it since it will do the same think once it gets to twice the mileage the bike has now.

 

Dan.

[dirtrider]

3 hours ago, Bob_1978 said:

Thanks to all who advised!  Towed the bike to Vallentine Motor Works in Seattle and they tell me it's a complete transmisstion failure.  $2,000 estimate and maybe another $500 if they need the plates that are part of the system.  It's a brick without the repair so I'm biting the bullet on this one.

 

I do trust Vallentine based on prior experience and will never take the bike to an authorized dealer after many bad experiences with BMW of Cambridge in the Boston area.

 

 

 

Morning  Bob_1978

 

When the dealer says a "complete transmission failure", can you get them to define that diagnosis in more detail? Transmissions don't COMPLETELLY fail, something in the transmission failed.

 

If the motorcycle didn't pull in ANY gear then that mostly points to stripped input shaft splines. (Is this the real problem).

 

It makes a difference in how you have them repair it, if it is stripped transmission splines & they don't also repair the REASON that they stripped then   your problem will probably return in about the same mileage as your current failure. (it will be way out of their repair warranty by then).

 

I know that you trust the dealer but depending on EXACTLY what failed with your transmission you need to question their diagnosis in deeper detail so you know that you are getting a lasting repair. (just stuffing a new transmission  input shaft & new clutch disk in that bike is NOT a lasting repair).  

 

 

[Shane J.]

Bob- There are a number of Rt's local to you on Craigs list, for not much more than you will spend on the repair. For example- https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/d/keyport-2003-bmw-r1150rt/6990680445.html

I bet you could get that one for around 3G's. And there is a '98 r1100rt for only $1500. Just saying....

[Bob_1978]

On 10/17/2019 at 12:34 AM, Bob_1978 said:

Thanks to all who advised!  Towed the bike to Vallentine Motor Works in Seattle and they tell me it's a complete transmisstion failure.  $2,000 estimate and maybe another $500 if they need the plates that are part of the system.  It's a brick without the repair so I'm biting the bullet on this one.

 

I do trust Vallentine based on prior experience and will never take the bike to an authorized dealer after many bad experiences with BMW of Cambridge in the Boston area.I

 

Quote

I am obviously NOT a DIY person but admire all of you who are!  Maybe in my next life...getting the tupperware off and changing my own oil is as far as I'll go! 

 

 

[Bob_1978]

Here is what was replaced...$1,000 in parts and $900 in labor.  Hopefully I'll get another 30k miles out of this machine.  But the mechanics who did service me have great things about the 2010-2102 RTs.  So will be looking at those as a replacement!

 

Thanks to all who chimed in!

 

Bob