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DIN Side Socket Wiring (2004 R1150RT)

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pgm

Hi - New thread based on a RT-P question.

 

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the side DIN sockets for the Generation including my R1150RT?

 

Background info:

Since I have owned the bike, I have had a BMW (trickle?) charger for the bike. 

Even before installing a Kisan signal relay, I had battery drainage issues.

Typical as i hear from others, I barely got 2 years from my battery.

 

I installed a SAE fused connector directly to the battery.

I have found, that it charges the battery better and now on my 4th battery year.

 

Sooooo....I would like to replace one of the DIN connectors with the SAE,

for total convenience for not needing to "pop" the seats.

 

BUT - concerned that I don't get what I want with the original wiring,

however it is wired....

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Lowndes

Clymer #M503-3 has the wiring diagram and in color.

 

You might as well go ahead and get one.

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dirtrider
14 hours ago, pgm said:

Hi - New thread based on a RT-P question.

 

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the side DIN sockets for the Generation including my R1150RT?

 

Background info:

Since I have owned the bike, I have had a BMW (trickle?) charger for the bike. 

Even before installing a Kisan signal relay, I had battery drainage issues.

Typical as i hear from others, I barely got 2 years from my battery.

 

I installed a SAE fused connector directly to the battery.

I have found, that it charges the battery better and now on my 4th battery year.

 

Sooooo....I would like to replace one of the DIN connectors with the SAE,

for total convenience for not needing to "pop" the seats.

 

BUT - concerned that I don't get what I want with the original wiring,

however it is wired....

 

 

Evening Pgm

 

Yes, in fact I have a number of BMW 1150 wiring diagrams. Problem is they only show the factory wired accessory socket structure.

 

If you ONLY have one power outlet (& it is factory)  then it is probably powered by the #3 (15 amp) fuse.  This is the way they came from the factory. Some also came with 2 factory installed outlets (both powered by fuse #3).

 

Now, if you have 2 accessory outlets they are more than likely both powered by the same #3 fuse as that is how the factory  2nd and  the (dealer installed 2nd) outlet accessory kit came. 

 

BUT__ this doesn't mean they  all are powered this way, I have seen a few that were dealer (or rider) installed so one power outlet was wired to the #3 fuse & the 2nd one was wired to a key-on accessory circuit. This gave a choice of full time 12v power on one  outlet, or key-on 12v power on the other. I owned an early 1150RT that had one full time 12v & had one key-on 12v outlet that (I believe)  were dealer installed.

 

In any case, use a test light or volt meter to see if your outlet (or outlets) have full time 12v, if so then  remove fuse #3 & they should power down. 

 

If you have multi outlets then see if they both have full time 12V, if they don't then see in one goes on & off with the ign key.

 

BMW offered dealer installed accessory outlets as well a kits to install them yourself so there can be some differences even in the same model & model year.  

 

If you have 2 outlets then you can just unplug one, then make up an in-line fused harness & run it to battery (+) post & to (-) battery post  'direct'  to by-pass charging back through the #3 fuse & back through the main wire harness. 

 

Or just run the (-) to chassis ground   & run the fused (+) to the starter (big nut) where the positive battery cable connects (this will get it directly to the battery (+) post). Problem with this way is if you blow the fuse it will be a devil to access  without removing plastic panels.

 

Added: If you do have a good 12v reaching your accessory socket (or sockets) but are not getting a good battery charge back through the accessory socket then use a good small light & look inside the outlet socket. If it looks greenish inside that means corrosion (= resistance) so mix up some Baking Soda with water, then dip a Q-tip in the solution & clean the inside of the outlets (this usually restores full current carrying capacity).

 

If you have a water softener & wash your bike with softened water then you might get in the habit of using the Baking Soda/water to clean the outlets once a year. (there is just enough current flow through the softened water remaining  in the sockets to produce that greenish corrosion).       

 

 

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Tom in Vernon BC

On my 2004 RT-P out of Oxnard California, the front DIN socket appears to be directly connected to the primary battery.  At least, that's where my battery maintainer has been plugged in for the last 8 years or so, and I haven't messed with that part of the wiring harness.

 

I suspect that the rear DIN socket may have been connected to the auxiliary battery in the compartment on the left side cover.  Since that battery has been eradicated on this bike, I can't verify this.

 

Yes, the Kisan sucks (power, that is), but I've recently read a post that suggested that the newer ones have lower parasitic drain.  I have the older Kisan installed in mine, of course.

 

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pgm

@dirtrider - 2 sockets as acquired from dealer.  I will clean, good suggestion and practice.  I will check the function vis-a-vis fuse, key, etc. 

@Tom in Vernon BC - I have heard that the RT-P models were wired a differently.  If I rewire mine, I will replace the DIN with an SAE socket.  I'm looking for a power source other than direct to battery, as there is not much room to add wires to the terminals... although I do currently have one SAE extension on it. 

 

I'll post what I find. 

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Lowndes

PGM,

 

Couple of options:

 

1)  Connect two SAE sets to one +/pos battery eyelet and one -/neg battery eyelet = one battery connection but two SAE connectors.

 

2) get a DIN(male) to SAE  adapter or a DIN(male) to cig lighter (female). All kinds of connectors/adapters here:

 

 https://www.google.com/search?q=din+connector+for+1999+bmw+motorcycle&newwindow=1&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS597US597&sxsrf=ACYBGNRPmnqHtPo0n3ALCMmnGIfrJGDRjg:1570308852884&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=aZYlSiTVg1DqWM%3A%2COYm3CEXHARHLVM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQIfmj7qhJqHMHhWJkbXjCCIsag_A&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjxj_SqgIblAhXCVt8KHT7GDUwQ9QEwAXoECAQQCQ#imgrc=aZYlSiTVg1DqWM:

 

 

 

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dirtrider
7 hours ago, pgm said:

  If I rewire mine, I will replace the DIN with an SAE socketI'm looking for a power source other than direct to battery, as there is not much room to add wires to the terminals... although I do currently have one SAE extension on it. 

 

 

 

Afternoon Pgm

 

If you are going to add a new SAE socket then you can just get rid of the existing SAE pigtail to gain battery post real-estate  as you won't need a stand alone SAE pigtail if you have an SAE socket. 

 

You can then run your new SAE socket wires to battery-post-direct but you will still have to put an in-line fuse in the (+) wire running from the battery to the SAE socket. 

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pgm

EDIT:  oops, #3 fuse is toast.  I must have shorted when I measured  the outlet with the probes

 

Engine = Off

    - Ignition Switch = "Off":  12.77 V on all 3 connectors

    - Ignition Switch = "On":  11.73 V on SAE, no voltage on DIN connectors

Engine = running, but alternator light on (did not "rev")

    - 11.73 V on SAE, no voltage on DIN

Engine = running, alternator light off (rev'd engine)

    - 12.54 on SAE, No voltage on DIN

Shut Engine off & removed key

    - 12.54 on SAE, still no voltage on DIN

 

Per Lowdenes, the Clymer manual wiring diagram does not include the side connectors.

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dirtrider
4 hours ago, pgm said:

EDIT:  oops, #3 fuse is toast.  I must have shorted when I measured  the outlet with the probes

 

Engine = Off

    - Ignition Switch = "Off":  12.77 V on all 3 connectors

    - Ignition Switch = "On":  11.73 V on SAE, no voltage on DIN connectors

Engine = running, but alternator light on (did not "rev")

    - 11.73 V on SAE, no voltage on DIN

Engine = running, alternator light off (rev'd engine)

    - 12.54 on SAE, No voltage on DIN

Shut Engine off & removed key

    - 12.54 on SAE, still no voltage on DIN

 

Per Lowdenes, the Clymer manual wiring diagram does not include the side connectors.

\

Evening Pgm

 

Check fuse #3  again as it is probably blown again.  It might have something else on the #3 fuse circuit blowing the fuse but is  VERY/VERY easy to blow the #3 fuse when probing a DIN socket (use tape on all  but the very tip of the probe to prevent shorting the socket)

 

My factory wiring diagram shows that both factory DIN sockets are on the #3 fuse. 

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pgm

To be clear, I don't have a RT-P, it is a 2004 R1150RT...stock from the dealership/factory.

 

Using a DIN plug , so I don't accidentally blow the fuse, I have voltage at the sockets in all cases - key off, key on, engine running ---- plus it matches in voltage to the fused SAE connector I have direct connect to the battery.

 

No corrosion in sockets.

 

So, I am only left with bigger wiring on the SAE aftermarket addition over the factory DIN connector wiring which gives me better battery charging with the BMW-brand charger (trickle?) that I have.  Over the winter, I will replace one DIN with a direct connect SAE, for convenience, and maybe, just maybe, figure out how to add a USB to the glove box and/or dashboard.  Those would be attached to the Radio socket/fuse...if I can find.

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dirtrider
15 minutes ago, pgm said:

To be clear, I don't have a RT-P, it is a 2004 R1150RT...stock from the dealership/factory.

 

Using a DIN plug , so I don't accidentally blow the fuse, I have voltage at the sockets in all cases - key off, key on, engine running ---- plus it matches in voltage to the fused SAE connector I have direct connect to the battery.

 

No corrosion in sockets.

 

So, I am only left with bigger wiring on the SAE aftermarket addition over the factory DIN connector wiring which gives me better battery charging with the BMW-brand charger (trickle?) that I have.  Over the winter, I will replace one DIN with a direct connect SAE, for convenience, and maybe, just maybe, figure out how to add a USB to the glove box and/or dashboard.  Those would be attached to the Radio socket/fuse...if I can find.

 

Afternoon Pgm

 

Your stock wiring & fuse  should be plenty heavy for a trickle charger as that is a low amps application.  Your 1150RT  has a 1.5mm wire all the way from the sockets all the way back to the battery with a 15 amp fuse.

 

On your radio wiring, that depends__ Earlier U.S. 1150RT's came with a radio prep kit from the factory so those have the radio stub harness running to about where the radio would be. Unless the dealer ordered your later  bike with the radio prep kit (harness) then it probably doesn't have it (a lot of dealers ordered their stock motorcycles with the radio prep kit (but not all did).    If you have it then it will be 2 connectors,  large red/white wire in one will be the full time 12v & the violet/white wire in the other will be key-on 12v (only if you put a fuse in the radio cavity in your fuse box)

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pgm
On 10/9/2019 at 2:42 PM, dirtrider said:

Earlier U.S. 1150RT's came with a radio prep kit from the factory so those have the radio stub harness

 

Where, under the **tupperware** would I find the stubs (connectors)?

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pgm
On 10/9/2019 at 2:42 PM, dirtrider said:

Your 1150RT  has a 1.5mm wire all the way from the sockets all the way back to the battery with a 15 amp fuse.

 

Clean socket and plugs... ain't happening for me as well as the direct SAE plug.

Individual results may vary.

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dirtrider
51 minutes ago, pgm said:

 

Where, under the **tupperware** would I find the stubs (connectors)?

 

Afternoon Pgm

 

Should be in front of & just below the glove box (where the radio would go if you had one)  

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