Battery charger

[SteveS RT]

According to my manual I should not charge my battery directly at the terminals or it could damage the electronics. 

BMW sells a charger... 

im not seeing one on their site. 

I have a 2014 RT, can I just use a battery tender and a pig tail to the battery?

 

 

[RPondaRoad]

I had the same question after buying my '18 that the dealer had installed a SAE/Battery Tender pigtail on.  I was told by the dealer that there was no problem using a Battery Tender.  I live in California and can ride year round, so I don't put my battery on my Tender often.  But, when I'm away from home and not on a moto tour, I put the Battery Tender on and have had no ill effects.  I've done this for over a month.   So, based on what I was told by my dealer and my limited experience, the answer to your question is "yes, you can use a battery tender and a pig tail to the battery.  

[Carlisja]

BMW sells a specific battery charger that connects through the DIN plug (power outlet), communicates with the Canbus and charges the battery.  Most other tenders get blocked by the Canbus.  This is why it is better to install a pigtail directly to the battery.  Through the pigtail, you can use any quality tender. 

[SteveS RT]

Thanks for the quick feedback!

[PadG]

5 hours ago, Carlisja said:

BMW sells a specific battery charger that connects through the DIN plug (power outlet), communicates with the Canbus and charges the battery.  Most other tenders get blocked by the Canbus.  This is why it is better to install a pigtail directly to the battery.  Through the pigtail, you can use any quality tender. 

Sorry, but that's not true!  You definitely don't want to use a cheap charger, but any that can connect to the bike's aux. port (with the Powerlet connector) CAN charge the battery via any of the 2 ports.  I use the BatteryDoc charger, and connect it to my RTs via the rear aux. port once the bike is parked in the garage.  Been doing this with my prior '07 RT, '14 RT, and my present '15 RT.

 

On the pre-wethead RT, you must have the CANBus active when you connect the charger, or the system won't recognize it.  Typically, the RT's electrical system will shut down after about a minute, and for those earlier RT, if you haven't connected the charger to the port yet, then you must turn on the ignition to wake up the system, and then connect the charget to the port.  You don't have to do this if you are connecting directly to the battery via a pig-tail.  The wethead and newer models has a bit more intelligence to the electrical system, and I had found that I could connect my charger to the aux. port at any time, and the system will recognize it right away.  Before you ask, I know that things are working by observing the LED indicator on my charger.

[Paul De]

First be sure what ever battery charger you use it is compatible with the AGM type battery found on the Wethead.  The charger needs to achieve a different peak voltage than that for the older flooded type battery.  You still need that capability even if you are bypassing the CANbus system with a pigtail to the battery.  Also you want to avoid a charger that supplies too many amps for the size of the battery to avoid overheating and ruining it. Thankfully most charger/maintainers are in the single digit amperage range which won't overheat your RT battery (rule of thumb is 25% of rated amp hours is safe, or about 5 amps max for a 20ah battery).  If you buy a charger that has an equalization function do not use it on an AGM battery.

 

There are a number of very nice chargers available that are compatible with BMWs CANbus system.  I  happen to use the Optimate 4 model that includes the correct plug for connecting to either of the accessory ports on the waterhead.  Works great and keeps the accessory port active by telling the computer it is attached even when it gets to standby mode (fully charged monitoring mode).   Many great ones are cheaper than the one sold with the Roundel printed on the side.

[dirtrider]

34 minutes ago, Paul De said:

There are a number of very nice chargers available that are compatible with BMWs CANbus system.  I  happen to use the Optimate 4 model that includes the correct plug for connecting to either of the accessory ports on the waterhead.  Works great and keeps the accessory port active by telling the computer it is attached even when it gets to standby mode (fully charged monitoring mode).   Many great ones are cheaper than the one sold with the Roundel printed on the side.

 

Afternoon Paul

 

This is a very important point.

 

A number of battery chargers will charge back through an active accessory outlet BUT they can't re-initiate the charge once the charger goes into monitoring or standby mode. (they have no built in way to cause the ZFE module to turn the accessory port back on once it is dropped & most  chargers won't properly start unless they actually see correct battery connection polarity)

 

Once the charger drops out (for any reason)  like quick power outage, or switching to monitoring mode, or ??? then most chargers will not have the ability to re-initiate the charge sequence & turn the ZFE controlled accessory outlets back on.

 

Newer BMW bikes are better at recognizing a charge input but not all chargers will cause the re-energization of the accessory ports.

[dirtrider]

15 hours ago, SteveS RT said:

According to my manual I should not charge my battery directly at the terminals or it could damage the electronics. 

BMW sells a charger... 

im not seeing one on their site. 

I have a 2014 RT, can I just use a battery tender and a pig tail to the battery?

 

 

 

Afternoon Steve

 

My part book shows the BMW  PN-- 77 02 8 551 897 battery charger as correct for your 2014 1200RT. (expensive but BMW approved)

 

The BMW warning about charging directly to the battery posts is about over-voltage therefore electronics damage.

 

Most common small battery chargers don't charge to, at, or above 15 volts but some have a de-sulfation cycle or other high voltage capable output so those can damage your very expensive onboard computers & modules.

 

The safe thing to do is make sure that the charger  you are using doesn't have any settings that exceed 15 volts (ever), that way you can never make a mistake & use the high voltage setting by mistake.

 

Also see Paul's posting above about making sure the charger you use has a proper AGM setting, a good way to damage a perfectly good AGM battery is to use a  trickle charger that has improper charging characteristics  for your AGM battery.  

 

Adding a (fused) pig tail to your existing battery is a good practice as it  can then be charged without the ZFE module being turned on & active plus a fused pigtail allows running higher amp temporary   accessories a like electric tire pump, or high draw heated clothing, or charging a completely dead battery.

 

[SteveS RT]

 

1 hour ago, Paul De said:

First be sure what ever battery charger you use it is compatible with the AGM type battery found on the Wethead.  The charger needs to achieve a different peak voltage than that for the older flooded type battery.  You still need that capability even if you are bypassing the CANbus system with a pigtail to the battery.  Also you want to avoid a charger that supplies too many amps for the size of the battery to avoid overheating and ruining it. Thankfully most charger/maintainers are in the single digit amperage range which won't overheat your RT battery (rule of thumb is 25% of rated amp hours is safe, or about 5 amps max for a 20ah battery).  If you buy a charger that has an equalization function do not use it on an AGM battery.

 

There are a number of very nice chargers available that are compatible with BMWs CANbus system.  I  happen to use the Optimate 4 model that includes the correct plug for connecting to either of the accessory ports on the waterhead.  Works great and keeps the accessory port active by telling the computer it is attached even when it gets to standby mode (fully charged monitoring mode).   Many great ones are cheaper than the one sold with the Roundel printed on the side.

Paul, are you using the Optimate 4 can-bus edition or the dual program version? this looks like  a very good option.

[AZgman]

Having to use a Canbus connected battery tender is pure BS. A good quality tender hooked directly to the battery through a fused SAE connector works well and is installed as SOP by the dealers here in AZ. I have had mine this way for 3 years without an issue.

[Cap]

When I bought my 2017 R1200RT from Gateway BMW in St. Louis, they had already attached a pigtail for a charger.  They use CTEK brand chargers, which have a really nice feature: the pigtails have a flashing indicator light.  When the battery is well-charged, the pigtail flashes green.  When the charge drops, the pigtail changes to yellow.  So, even when disconnected from the charger, and the ignition is off, you have some indication of the state of charge of your battery.

 

I leave my charger connected whenever the bike is parked in my garage.  But if you are concerned about that use mode, then the visual indicator on the CTEK is nice because it gives you some warning of declining charge.

[SteveS RT]

43 minutes ago, Cap said:

When I bought my 2017 R1200RT from Gateway BMW in St. Louis, they had already attached a pigtail for a charger.  They use CTEK brand chargers, which have a really nice feature: the pigtails have a flashing indicator light.  When the battery is well-charged, the pigtail flashes green.  When the charge drops, the pigtail changes to yellow.  So, even when disconnected from the charger, and the ignition is off, you have some indication of the state of charge of your battery.

 

I leave my charger connected whenever the bike is parked in my garage.  But if you are concerned about that use mode, then the visual indicator on the CTEK is nice because it gives you some warning of declining charge.

cool.. I just got off the phone with my independent mechanic... (BMW certified master technician) and apparently the BMW charger is made by "battery tender". I think I'm going the pigtail route!

[RPondaRoad]

I carry an electric battery inflator on my bike at all times.  The one I have (Slime) mates right up to that SAE pigtail on my bike.  I put a larger fuse in the heavy duty pigtail to support it's momentary current draw when first turned on.   Although my heated jacket uses a different connector, I also bought an SAE adapter for it "just in case".  The pigtail is so useful, that many dealers including mine put one on the bike before sale.  

 

BTW, I use a Deltran Battery Tender Jr.   It's inexpensive, and works very well.  My '18 RT is the third bike that I've used it on.  

[Paul De]

On 9/30/2019 at 12:11 PM, SteveS RT said:

 

Paul, are you using the Optimate 4 can-bus edition or the dual program version? this looks like  a very good option.

Hi SteveS RT

 

I have the Optimate 4 CANbus Edition which is slightly updated from my unit in that they don't make as big a promotional fuss about how it is BMW CANbus compatible...guessing they want to be sure folks realize it isn't just for BMW, but any CANbus syustem.  The correct accessory plug is included and fits snugly in the socket

https://tecmate.com/products/optimate4cb/

 

The reality is that either Optimate 4 models you mention are a dual program unit but the CANbus model comes preset to program 2 (CANbus compatible program).   It takes a very deliberate set of steps to set it back to Program 1 which involves shorting out the spring clamp connectors for about 10 seconds until the display signals it has flipped to either program 1 or 2.  While not idiot proof, it is pretty safe from an inadvertent flip of the program mode, particularly with the DIN connector in place for use on a BMW.

[Paul De]

23 hours ago, AZgman said:

Having to use a Canbus connected battery tender is pure BS. A good quality tender hooked directly to the battery through a fused SAE connector works well and is installed as SOP by the dealers here in AZ. I have had mine this way for 3 years without an issue.

 

Totally agree. I went with one that connects through the accessory plug for my pure lazy convenience of not having to fish out the tucked away pig tail end.  Sure it is  expensive for that level of laziness, but to me it was worth it. YRMV,

[PadG]

18 hours ago, Paul De said:

 

Totally agree. I went with one that connects through the accessory plug for my pure lazy convenience of not having to fish out the tucked away pig tail end.  Sure it is  expensive for that level of laziness, but to me it was worth it. YRMV,

When I went that route, quite a few years back, it wasn't so expensive.  The BatteryDoc charger that I had was only about $40, and it's just a little more than that nowadays.  Actually, I just found one for less than what I had paid for those many years back: https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Battery-Doc-1.25-Amp.html

 

They don't claim CANBus compatible, but it is.  I am afraid that what you might find of this particular charger out there nowadays are strays.  It is owned by Wirthco nowadays, and they had replaced this particular model with something else.

[dirtrider]

19 hours ago, Paul De said:

 

Totally agree. I went with one that connects through the accessory plug for my pure lazy convenience of not having to fish out the tucked away pig tail end.  Sure it is  expensive for that level of laziness, but to me it was worth it. YRMV,

 

Morning Paul

 

I hear you on that, if left hanging out it flops around, if tucked under the seat it is a pain to access.

 

On my personal 1200 bikes I just make up a simple 15 amp fused  wire harness that plugs into the rear of the  front accessory outlet (after unplugging the factory ZFE controlled harness) then hook directly to the battery.

 

That allows the stock accessory outlet to be used with any charger that is rated for the battery type but also turns the front accessory outlet into a conventional outlet without ZFE electronic control or interference. Plus it allows for a full 15 amp load to run things like a small air pump, or full set of older heated gear.  It also allows me to run my cell phone charger from the power outlet  at remote campsites where  110 ac is not available.

 

I just have a basic problem with leaving a major chassis controller energized for long periods JUST to charge a battery.

 

 

 

 

 

[AndyS]

6 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

I just make up a simple 15 amp fused  wire harness that plugs into the rear of the  front accessory outlet (after unplugging the factory ZFE controlled harness) then hook directly to the battery.

 

That allows the stock accessory outlet to be used with any charger that is rated for the battery type but also turns the front accessory outlet into a conventional outlet without ZFE electronic control or interference. Plus it allows for a full 15 amp load to run things like a small air pump, or full set of older heated gear.  It also allows me to run my cell phone charger from the power outlet  at remote campsites where  110 ac is not available.

 

Yep, me too. In fact I have changed all the sockets to excluded from the ZFE control. I have one socket just fused and connected directly to the battery (for charging and the like), and 3 others controlled though a PDM60 switched fuseblock for heated clothing and the likes.

[Paul De]

3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

On my personal 1200 bikes I just make up a simple 15 amp fused  wire harness that plugs into the rear of the  front accessory outlet (after unplugging the factory ZFE controlled harness) then hook directly to the battery...

 

...I just have a basic problem with leaving a major chassis controller energized for long periods JUST to charge a battery.

Afternoon DR,

Point well taken and might even make it on the winter list of mods to make.  

 

I was even considering to go so far as to add a direct to battery fused matching DIN socket if it would fit next to the one there on the fairing   But wow, looking up part number shows BMW retail is slightly over $50.  There is one on Fleabay for about half that so that is more palatable, I just have to look and see if that will fit where I want to put it

01

61 34 7 714 741

PLUG-IN SOCKET

 

Well I'm not too surprised as I knew when I bought my first Bavarian Autobahn blaster that BMW stood for Bring Money in Wads when you go to the parts counter.  And that fact hasn't changed over the decades of owning these motorcycles.

[dirtrider]

51 minutes ago, Paul De said:

Afternoon DR,

Point well taken and might even make it on the winter list of mods to make.  

 

I was even considering to go so far as to add a direct to battery fused matching DIN socket if it would fit next to the one there on the fairing   But wow, looking up part number shows BMW retail is slightly over $50.  There is one on Fleabay for about half that so that is more palatable, I just have to look and see if that will fit where I want to put it

01

61 34 7 714 741

PLUG-IN SOCKET

 

Well I'm not too surprised as I knew when I bought my first Bavarian Autobahn blaster that BMW stood for Bring Money in Wads when you go to the parts counter.  And that fact hasn't changed over the decades of owning these motorcycles.

 

 

Afternoon Paul

 

If you need a 2nd outlet then adding a 2nd one would be a good idea if you can fit it in neatly & cleanly.

 

On the other hand, if you don't actually need, or have need for, a 2nd power outlet then why cut another hole in the bike & spend money on  another outlet? (once you install a battery direct outlet  you  probably won't ever  use the factory electronic controlled outlet again)

 

PowerLet used to sell both the BMW style DIN outlet (looked just like factory only with more robust terminals) & also sell battery direct wire harnesses to convert the factory  outlet to battery direct.

 

Problem is, PowerLet went out of business for a while but is now sort of back selling some components again (so I am not familiar with what PowerLet  currently has available).

 

You might poke around on the new PowerLet web site (or call them), calling might be best as their new web site seems kind of lame & behind.            https://www.powerlet.com/

 

You can usually find the BMW DIN type outlets on E-Bay for a reasonable price (just make sure anything that  you buy isn't greenish-corroded inside). The older BMW 1100/1150 era outlets are actually better as the rear terminals are not only larger (higher amp capacity) but much easier to find terminals & a connector for.  

[AndyS]

I Installed the 2 extra sockets on my mine in the lefthand frame infill panel. The panel is inexpensive to replace should I need to (I won't).  When I sell the bike, these bits go with it!

[SteveS RT]

I changed my air filter today and while I had the plastic off I just ran a fused pigtail up to the seat, so now I can just pop that off and plug in.