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Super Dave

Arched TwinMax Readings

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Super Dave

Hooked up the TwinMax A & B Left & Right.

Turn on, set to max sensitivity, zero'ed, set to minimum sensitivity, start bike.

 

Cable ends are seated in their cups (Checked, Double Checked, Checked again).

Bike idle is balanced "0" (bounces evenly between the 1's on both sides) at max sensitivity.

On the highway is balanced "0" between 70 & 80 MPH (my normal cruising speed) at max sensitivity.  

All other conditions the needle is pulling somewhat to quite a bit to the right including 3k RPM in shop.

 

History....

Bought the bike this year. '98 R1100RT with 16k miles.

15k miles was between '98 & '05.

In '05 it got flooded by hurricane Rita (per PO past comments on this site).

Between '05 and '19 there have only been 1k miles.

 

Surged big time at 3K.

 

PO must had seen what I'm seeing (Tach jumping).

Tach works sometimes when cold, then jumps and dies by 2 bars temp.

He replaced the whole HES, didn't help.
* I replaced his with a completely different HES that I had sent off to Reto to have the wires replaced and tested.

 

Looking through the paperwork he gave me, he had been reading about Zero=Zero.

Sure enough the Blue Paint of Chasity was missing. His Zero=.370.

 

I read as much as I could on the subject and ended up...

* Sent the injectors off to be ultrasonic cleaned, new screens and tested.

* Cleaned the hell out of the TBs.

* Replaced the intake manifolds with new between the Heads & TB. 
* New BBS, O-rings & rubber bits all around
* Set Valves cold I=15, E=30.

* Replaced rusted through USA muffler with EU muffler (no cat) & CO Pot (no CCP).

 

* Running with Roger's (Thank You!) Zero=.250, then stop screw at .340. 

* Replaced all throttle cables and banjo box (and left them all fully loose for now).

* With both BBS turned all the way in, I balanced the Right stop screw to the left at low idle.

* Turned out BBS to "0" balance at 1.5 turns left, & 1.6 right (5 bar idle at 1.1k RPM).

* Retrained TPS (pull #5 fuse for 5min, key on, 3 full flips of the throttle, key off).

* Checked for air leaks with spray around intakes, butterflies, TPS, BBS, & air tubes (nothing).

 

* Set the top throttle & choke cables at 1mm play, and left at 2mm. 

   (Note, I have almost no adjustment on the left & right. Both are nearly bottomed out with 2mm of play.)

   Ended up having to bottom out the Right side and adjusting up the Left.

* Yes choke is off, and yes still the same after backing off the top throttle cable.

 

THEN as stated above...

* Hooked up the TwinMax A & B Left & Right.

* Turn on, set to max sensitivity, zero'ed, set to minimum sensitivity, start bike.

* Cable ends are seated in their cups (Checked, Double Checked, Checked again).

* Bike idle is balanced "0" (bounces evenly between the 1's on both sides) at max sensitivity.

* On the highway is balanced "0" between 70 & 80 MPH (my normal cruising speed) at max sensitivity.  

All other conditions the needle is pulling somewhat to quite a bit to the right including 3k RPM in shop.

 

Also...

Because the factory tach is not working, I've hooked up an external inductive tach and watched the reading from each side.

* Left side is reality calm. Right side jumps around from 1.1k to 1.8k RPM (You can also hear a hiccup when it happens).

* 3k RPM in the shop you can see and feel an intermittent hiccup about every 5 seconds (?). 

* Replaced Coil and right cable with one from a running bike (still does it).

* Taped up cable where it turns under the black valve cover (didn't help).

 

Thoughts?

 

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dirtrider
25 minutes ago, Super Dave said:

Hooked up the TwinMax A & B Left & Right.

Turn on, set to max sensitivity, zero'ed, set to minimum sensitivity, start bike.

 

Cable ends are seated in their cups (Checked, Double Checked, Checked again).

Bike idle is balanced "0" (bounces evenly between the 1's on both sides) at max sensitivity.

On the highway is balanced "0" between 70 & 80 MPH (my normal cruising speed) at max sensitivity.  

All other conditions the needle is pulling somewhat to quite a bit to the right including 3k RPM in shop.

 

History....

Bought the bike this year. '98 R1100RT with 16k miles.

15k miles was between '98 & '05.

In '05 it got flooded by hurricane Rita (per PO past comments on this site).

Between '05 and '19 there have only been 1k miles.

 

Surged big time at 3K.

 

PO must had seen what I'm seeing (Tach jumping).

Tach works sometimes when cold, then jumps and dies by 2 bars temp.

He replaced the whole HES, didn't help.
* I replaced his with a completely different HES that I had sent off to Reto to have the wires replaced and tested.

 

Looking through the paperwork he gave me, he had been reading about Zero=Zero.

Sure enough the Blue Paint of Chasity was missing. His Zero=.370.

 

I read as much as I could on the subject and ended up...

* Sent the injectors off to be ultrasonic cleaned, new screens and tested.

* Cleaned the hell out of the TBs.

* Replaced the intake manifolds with new between the Heads & TB. 
* New BBS, O-rings & rubber bits all around
* Set Valves cold I=15, E=30.

* Replaced rusted through USA muffler with EU muffler (no cat) & CO Pot (no CCP).

 

* Running with Roger's (Thank You!) Zero=.250, then stop screw at .340. 

* Replaced all throttle cables and banjo box (and left them all fully loose for now).

* With both BBS turned all the way in, I balanced the Right stop screw to the left at low idle.

* Turned out BBS to "0" balance at 1.5 turns left, & 1.6 right (5 bar idle at 1.1k RPM).

* Retrained TPS (pull #5 fuse for 5min, key on, 3 full flips of the throttle, key off).

* Checked for air leaks with spray around intakes, butterflies, TPS, BBS, & air tubes (nothing).

 

* Set the top throttle & choke cables at 1mm play, and left at 2mm. 

   (Note, I have almost no adjustment on the left & right. Both are nearly bottomed out with 2mm of play.)

   Ended up having to bottom out the Right side and adjusting up the Left.

* Yes choke is off, and yes still the same after backing off the top throttle cable.

 

THEN as stated above...

* Hooked up the TwinMax A & B Left & Right.

* Turn on, set to max sensitivity, zero'ed, set to minimum sensitivity, start bike.

* Cable ends are seated in their cups (Checked, Double Checked, Checked again).

* Bike idle is balanced "0" (bounces evenly between the 1's on both sides) at max sensitivity.

* On the highway is balanced "0" between 70 & 80 MPH (my normal cruising speed) at max sensitivity.  

All other conditions the needle is pulling somewhat to quite a bit to the right including 3k RPM in shop.

 

Also...

Because the factory tach is not working, I've hooked up an external inductive tach and watched the reading from each side.

* Left side is reality calm. Right side jumps around from 1.1k to 1.8k RPM (You can also hear a hiccup when it happens).

* 3k RPM in the shop you can see and feel an intermittent hiccup about every 5 seconds (?). 

* Replaced Coil and right cable with one from a running bike (still does it).

* Taped up cable where it turns under the black valve cover (didn't help).

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

Morning Dave

 

Some discrepancies at different RPM's & different throttle openings are pretty normal.  So that part doesn't put up any red flags.

 

* Left side is reality calm. Right side jumps around from 1.1k to 1.8k RPM (You can also hear a hiccup when it happens).

* 3k RPM in the shop you can see and feel an intermittent hiccup about every 5 seconds (?). --  This  is somewhat of a red flag.

 

You might try a leak down test on the problematic side to see if you have a leaking intake valve, or ???

 

An injector problem might also cause a similar problem (maybe try swapping fuel injectors side to side as a test).

 

A coked up exhaust valve (just under the valve head can also cause something similar) this is usually caused from some oil  burning or oil running down a valve stem after shutdown.

 

Have you checked the problem side spark plug wire resistance? (won't cause the vacuum oddity but could cause the intermittent hiccup about every 5 seconds). On the old 1100 bikes I have seen the R/H throttle body cam wear a chunk out of the spark plug wire.  

 

Does your bike still have the emission evap can on the rear? If so then try plugging the vacuum hoses going to the TB bottom nipples (it might be purging raw fuel into the throttle body).

 

Did you replace the spark plug?? If not then try that also.

 

You might also look for worn throttle shaft bushing in the problem side throttle body (worn bushings/shaft  can allow extra air in at lower throttle openings during high vacuum). Usually OK at idle & OK at higher throttle openings but just off-idle to 1/4 throttle is usually the worst.  

 

 

 

 

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Super Dave

Issue followed swapped plugs.

Installed some autolite 3923s.

* First set at .32

* Then set at .30

* Last set at .28 (best idle, but I'm sure bring this up is like starting an oil thread)

 

Now both right and left are smooth except for jumping about every 5 (??) seconds.

The same issue I was seeing at 3k RPM (small hiccup).

 

Found my...

"Tach works sometimes when cold, then jumps and dies by 2 bars temp" issue!!! 

It was the ACTUAL TACH and not everything else under the sun.

* I swapped in and out another tach and the issue followed the old one.

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dirtrider
51 minutes ago, Super Dave said:

Issue followed swapped plugs.

Installed some autolite 3923s.

* First set at .32

* Then set at .30

* Last set at .28 (best idle, but I'm sure bring this up is like starting an oil thread)

 

Now both right and left are smooth except for jumping about every 5 (??) seconds.

The same issue I was seeing at 3k RPM (small hiccup).

 

Found my...

"Tach works sometimes when cold, then jumps and dies by 2 bars temp" issue!!! 

It was the ACTUAL TACH and not everything else under the sun.

* I swapped in and out another tach and the issue followed the old one.

 

Afternoon Dave

 

I'm not following you on the "Issue followed swapped plugs", what issue is this referring to?

 

You s-h-o-u-l-d get best idle with a wider electrode gap (within reason). If you are actually seeing a better idle with a smaller electrode gap (and it isn't just an anomaly) then verify that you have full voltage going to the ign coil B+ terminal & that the entire ignition secondary loop (coil + both plug wires in series)  is measuring under 25K ohms (gray coil) & slightly lower yet with the later (replacement) black coil.

 

As far as that jumping every 5 seconds-- make sure that your fuel injector on the bad side is not dripping & is spraying a proper fine mist (injecting droplets could cause your jumping)

 

Maybe try some Techron concentrate in the fuel tank as that stuff works pretty good on clearing up fuel injector spray patterns.

 

Are you running with the factory CCP in the fuse box, or a different CCP, or no CCP?  

 

 

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Super Dave

"..swapped plugs"

Switched them from one side to the other.

Then I replaced both of them.

 

"As far as that jumping every 5 seconds..."

I was seeing the 5 seconds deal on both side and at different RPMs.

I was more worried about the Right side jumping around all the time.

* Plugs fixed the Right side.

* Skipping a heartbeat every 5 seconds'ish on both sides still there.

   Note; the cadence of the skip, hiccup, missed spark (whatever) does not change with RPM or at least not that I've noticed.

 

* No CCP, No Cat, Yes C0 Pot with factory EU exhaust (not after market).

C0 Pot (god I hope that doesn't get me flagged) was .673 ohms.

* Bumped up to 1k but will do a lot of riding and adjust it around.

IMG_2419.JPG

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dirtrider
35 minutes ago, Super Dave said:

"..swapped plugs"

Switched them from one side to the other.

Then I replaced both of them.

 

"As far as that jumping every 5 seconds..."

I was seeing the 5 seconds deal on both side and at different RPMs.

I was more worried about the Right side jumping around all the time.

* Plugs fixed the Right side.

* Skipping a heartbeat every 5 seconds'ish on both sides still there.

   Note; the cadence of the skip, hiccup, missed spark (whatever) does not change with RPM or at least not that I've noticed.

 

* No CCP, No Cat, Yes C0 Pot with factory EU exhaust (not after market).

C0 Pot (god I hope that doesn't get me flagged) was .673 ohms.

* Bumped up to 1k but will do a lot of riding and adjust it around.

 

 

Evening Dave

 

The Co pot is mainly for idle Co. & just above idle Co., it is pretty useless above high idle.

 

You might try simply unplugging the Co. pot  (as a test) as that will drive it full rich (at idle & just above idle only). The Co. pot Co. setting from the factory was pretty lean even with non-alcohol fuel & even leaner using E-10 fuel.

 

Back in the 1100 days we would run no-CCP & no Co. pot as that gave a good clean idle (rich but stable) but would drive the hot curb idle RPM higher. This also helped the surging problem as it carried the richness up just far enough to effect the light throttle low engine load surging range. 

 

If your jump isn't changing frequency with engine RPM's then that definitely tells you that it isn't spark related as sparking frequency changes with RPM change.

 

It is still 'sort of' pointing to an injector dripping or spraying large globs-- Try the Techron & riding it for a few days to see if THAT makes a difference in the jumping.  (or maybe send the injectors out for cleaning & calibration check). There are also some home brew injector cleaning  tactics.

 

Between '05 and '19 there have only been 1k miles.--  Tells you that there was plenty of opertunity for injectors to varnish up or pintle become sticky.

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