Stuck Choke

[pgm]

Hi all -  2004 R1150RT with only 15K or so miles on it (don't ask why so low miles).

 

My choke is stuck in the down position. It was always ok in pushing up past the detente (cold position) and problematic (very hard) to push down.  Well the detente went away and now it is stuck in the down position from me futzing with it.  The small cover is splayed out a bit (always was that way). 

 

Does anyone know how to disassemble and repair the choke handlebar mechanism? 

Any diagrams on how to disassemble?

 

thanks in advance,

peter

[Rinkydink]

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2004-bmw-r1150rt/o/m245

 

Click control and brake, OEM parts, and handle unit left. I can’t guarantee accuracy. Good luck

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, pgm said:

Hi all -  2004 R1150RT with only 15K or so miles on it (don't ask why so low miles).

 

My choke is stuck in the down position. It was always ok in pushing up past the detente (cold position) and problematic (very hard) to push down.  Well the detente went away and now it is stuck in the down position from me futzing with it.  The small cover is splayed out a bit (always was that way). 

 

Does anyone know how to disassemble and repair the choke handlebar mechanism? 

Any diagrams on how to disassemble?

 

thanks in advance,

peter

 

Evening Peter

 

It sounds like maybe a lever  screw has backed out.

 

Peel the grip back a little & take a look.

[RogerC60]

Wow, you talk about your fortuitous timing!

 

The fast idle lever on my '03 1150RT started doing this very same thing last week. I was getting ready tonight to remove the tupperware and start looking for a gravel stuck in the Bowden box or something. I'm glad I read this post before getting to work. I found the shorter of those three screws, the one in the middle, had backed out and its head was catching on the hole in the cover, preventing the lever from moving.

 

Thanks, DR, for the excellent graphic. You saved me a lot of wasted time and effort.

[pgm]

UPDATE:  None of the 3 screws were backed out.  I disassembled most of the clutch unit and tried to look what is going on.  I at least got it back to how it worked before - "clicks" on, but a bugger to push back.  I will call a BMW repair shop to see the cost to replace.  The part is ~$60... two hours of labor it will probably run me ~$200 to $300.  Interesting that all the screwed were marred.  It looks like the original dealership (Chicago are) might have tried to fix it when I complained under warranty.  It NEVER worked correctly, unless you other R1150RT owners say that it is normal for the choke to be so cranky to use.   I might post a video.

[AndyS]

Normally this 'Fast Idle' lever is rotated fully forward. For a cold start, the lever is rotated fully rearward and held in that positions by the rider. Once the engine starts, the lever can be release and it should rotate frward a little to the 'Fast Idle' position. A detent should hold it in this status. Once the engine is warm the operator returns the lever to the fully forward position.

 

What is yours doing?

[Skywagon]

When I hade my 1150RT it worked smoothly.  It had 3 positions.  The top position you actually had to hold it there are it would default to middle position.  It would stay in the middle position until you pulled it to the zero position as per what Andy said.  It was never difficult and I rarely used it.  I don't remember how it is all put together but, if there is a way to disconnect the cable at the switch, maybe you could try that first to find out if it is the cable, switch, or something else.  It may all be 1 piece...as I said don't remember.  If 1 piece then not sure how you could test.

[dirtrider]

24 minutes ago, pgm said:

UPDATE:  None of the 3 screws were backed out.  I disassembled most of the clutch unit and tried to look what is going on.  I at least got it back to how it worked before - "clicks" on, but a bugger to push back.  I will call a BMW repair shop to see the cost to replace.  The part is ~$60... two hours of labor it will probably run me ~$200 to $300.  Interesting that all the screwed were marred.  It looks like the original dealership (Chicago are) might have tried to fix it when I complained under warranty.  It NEVER worked correctly, unless you other R1150RT owners say that it is normal for the choke to be so cranky to use.   I might post a video.

 

 

Morning  pgm 

 

Did you try to tighten the screw's?   As a rule they back out just far enough to look like they are OK but in reality they back out just enough to hang up in one of the screw access holes (they look OK to the casual glance).

[pgm]

Yes - all three screws were re-installed and are tight.

Yes - it works in the "three position" as described - easy to pull up, so I doubt it is a cable issue.

I have always needed to use it for idle at cold start (current low idle is separate problem right now).

Toward the end of the attached video

- look at the how hard it pushes back into the "normal" position with the plastic flexing outward.

Here is a video of it in operation:

 

[AndyS]

Your idle looks WAY too low. Yes that lever action looks very stiff.

[dirtrider]

On ‎8‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 3:47 PM, pgm said:

 

Yes - all three screws were re-installed and are tight.

Yes - it works in the "three position" as described - easy to pull up, so I doubt it is a cable issue.

I have always needed to use it for idle at cold start (current low idle is separate problem right now).

Toward the end of the attached video

- look at the how hard it pushes back into the "normal" position with the plastic flexing outward.

Here is a video of it in operation:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Afternoon Peter

 

I still keep coming back to those screws (especially if the dealer worked on that bike for a choke issue).

 

The center of those 3 screws is quite a bit shorter, the end screws are 20mm long, if the dealer installed a 20mm longer screw in the center hole it could cause that bulging & tightness. (you might remove the center screw then measure it, if 20mm long then try leaving  it out & see how your choke feels & works)  

[pgm]

17 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

i still keep coming back to those screws (especially if the dealer worked on that bike for a choke issue).

 

The center of those 3 screws is quite a bit shorter, the end screws are 20mm long, if the dealer installed a 20mm longer screw in the center hole it could cause that bulging & tightness. (you might remove the center screw then measure it, if 20mm long then try leaving  it out & see how your choke feels & works)  

 

@dirtrider - you are a genius, thank you.   Long story short - middle screw was never properly seated.  Thank you for continue to push me on looking at it.  :-)

 

It was not a longer screw, rather it was not properly installed (or vibration backed it out).  In my original disassembly, I never got to that screw (my bad).  It takes a jeweler's screwdriver to properly address it.  The middle screw has a smaller head, limited room to get to it plus it is recessed.  I properly seated the screw & !! VOILA !!  the lever snaps down without excessive force.  (and the crowd goes wild)

 

Thanks again!

Now to figure out how to raise my low idle....

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, pgm said:

 

 

Now to figure out how to raise my low idle....

 

 

Evening Peter

 

Glad you found the problem (persistence not genius).

 

On your low idle, you need to let more air into the throttle bodies. Sounds like your BBS (Big Brass Screws) & the air passages under them are all coked up (happens on older BMW 1100/1150 bikes from fuel remaining in the TB's after hot engine shutdown.

 

At least that is where I would start.

 

You need to remove the Tupperware, then remove the BBS screws from the throttle bodies, then clean the BBS screw tips & the air passaged under the screws (use o2 sensor safe carb cleaner on the BBS air passages).  Also put drain hose on the nipples on the bottom of throttle bodies to guide the crud away for the motorcycle.

 

Then re-install the BBS screws all the way in (lightly tight on their seats), then back each BBS screw  out 1-1/2 turns, then see how it idles. (you can back them out evenly up to 2 turns if needed)

 

See if that helps the idle speed. You should also do a throttle body balance   but the 1-1/2 turns out after cleaning is probably much closer than you have now.

 

If the thing still doesn't idle high enough or smoothly after the BBS cleaning then you will have to look at things like lower spark plugs fouled or not sparking, or the base idle stop screws are not set correctly, or other mechanical issues.

 

[pgm]

An update for what it's worth... The choke now flip down with just using my forefinger.  It's never done that.  Perhaps the teflon dry lube is helping too.

 

For some unknown reason, the idle is now a bit better 1000 RPMs vs 800.  Not quite where it needs to be and still a bit rough.  Come November, I will remove tupperware and dig in.  I have a homemade manometer that I can re purpose for  balancing.  In the mean time, I will do my homework. 

 

Thanks to all!