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berniematic

2007 R1200RT elec. mess

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berniematic

Help! I ,charged a dead odyssey battery while connected. Then I read the manual and learned I shouldn't do that. Now I have brake failure light, red triangle, no speedo or cruise. The battery seems to be good. Anything I can do to fix this without dropping it off at a dealer?  Thanks much!

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dirtrider
47 minutes ago, berniematic said:

Help! I ,charged a dead odyssey battery while connected. Then I read the manual and learned I shouldn't do that. Now I have brake failure light, red triangle, no speedo or cruise. The battery seems to be good. Anything I can do to fix this without dropping it off at a dealer?  Thanks much!

 

 

Morning  berniematic

 

You can try-- Start by disconnecting the battery positive cable form the battery post for about 30 minutes. Then re-connect the battery cable & do a new TPS re-learn. That m-i-g-h-t reset the systems.

 

TPS re-learn procedure-----

 

*Disconnect the lead to the battery's positive  post for about 3 minutes. --- (you already did this per the above)
Then
*Reconnect the positive lead to the battery's positive terminal. --- (you already did this per the above)
Then
*Switch on the ignition.
Then
*Without starting the engine, fully open/close the throttle twist grip once or twice so that the control unit of the BMW engine management system can register the throttle-valve positions.
Then
*Switch off the ignition.

That's it__

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berniematic

Thank you

I certainly will try

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berniematic

 

i tried. No change. Can I replace a computer or module or something? Or does a dealer have to hook it up to some sort of brain scan?

Thanks again

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dirtrider
11 hours ago, berniematic said:

 

i tried. No change. Can I replace a computer or module or something? Or does a dealer have to hook it up to some sort of brain scan?

Thanks again

 

Morning  berniematic

 

Sure, you can replace computer modules. Problem is we don't know which one or even (IF) one of those is your root problem.

But even replacing one or all (extremely expensive) modules  you would still need dealer involvement to program to your specific motorcycle.

 

The main player on your brake & speedometer input is the ABS control module (ABS control unit), but that is just the entry point for the speed input signal from the wheels. So your problem c-o-u-l-d be the   ABS control module (ABS control unit).

 

Or the ABS control module (ABS control unit) isn't getting a proper wheel speed signal, or the ABS control module (ABS control unit) isn't powering up correctly, or ???????   (you need failure code(s) to even begin to understand this)

 

Then from the ABS control module (ABS control unit) the speed & brake signal goes out over the CAN (CanBus) to the ABS control module (ABS control unit), to the  BMS-KP (engine control module, to the ZFE (chassis control module), then on to the Instrument panel control unit. 

 

You might have a bad module, or some sort of a  CAN (CanBus) issue, or a speed signal input issue, or ??????? (again, you need failure code(s)

 

You need to find the system failure, then  find what is happening to cause that failure, then form a game plan on how to address that failure or failures. It could even be more than one failure point if the failure was caused by very high charging voltage.

 

This will be almost impossible without using a GS-911 (or dealer computer) then fully understanding what the GS-911 data is showing you. Even then it might not show a specific smoking gun & it still require more testing & educated guessing.

 

This isn't an easy home repair  for even the most experienced and takes a good solid understanding of how the onboard modules operate, how they communicate with each other,  how they work in conjunction with each other, & how they interface over the CAN system. (if you are asking then you are already starting out behind the curve on this)  

 

You haven't given us much of any background on when your problem started, when was the last time it operated correctly,  anything else done besides the battery charging, how high the charging voltage was at it's peak, etc. (with enough background info we m-i-g-h-t be able to add more to help you understand the problem area)

 

It usually takes over 15 volts charging to cause any system harm from battery charging (A desulfation cycle could do that).

 

Without a GS-911 you are REALLY just guessing & those will very expensive guesses and still not guaranteed to solve your problem.  

 

Even getting the dealer involved could be VERY expensive unless it is something simple like a broken wire or re-program of a system module.   

 

I wish I had something more positive to add but without failure codes, or more info on how/when your problem started, it isn't even to the guessing point.

 

You might try calling 'Module Masters' & talk to them as they are the experts on the BMW I-ABS brake modules. It's possible that they have seen similar battery-charging-related ABS module failures & can offer you some info on addressing your problem (worth a try anyhow).

 

 

 

 

 

 

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berniematic

Thank you

I will try calling module masters. They rebuilt my abs a year ago. It has worked fine since.

I can try to get it diagnosed at the dealer - its just that they are an hour away.

As for the event leading to this problem -

I had driven the cycle 10 miles. At my destination I put the kickstand down then let the clutch out before I got to neutral so the engine stopped. I was distracted and neglected to turn off the ignition. S0 - that and the other stuff (lights) were left on as I walked away. When I came back to the bike 3-4 hours later, battery was way dead. I shut off ignition and proceeded to charge the battery w/ a medium size harbor freight electronic type charger. I wouldn't think it made 15 volts but I will try to find out. After about a half hour charging and with the charger still hooked up, I switched on the key to see If I had any dash lights. They came on but the charger indicated only about 50% charge. I shut off the key and left it to charge. After about 2.5 hours the charger had shut down as it does at full charge. Bike started fine - and exhibited the problem I still have. No speedo or cruise, Red triangle, red 'brake failure'. I've continued to ride it and the brakes seem fine.

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dirtrider
4 hours ago, berniematic said:

Thank you

I will try calling module masters. They rebuilt my abs a year ago. It has worked fine since.

I can try to get it diagnosed at the dealer - its just that they are an hour away.

As for the event leading to this problem -

I had driven the cycle 10 miles. At my destination I put the kickstand down then let the clutch out before I got to neutral so the engine stopped. I was distracted and neglected to turn off the ignition. S0 - that and the other stuff (lights) were left on as I walked away. When I came back to the bike 3-4 hours later, battery was way dead. I shut off ignition and proceeded to charge the battery w/ a medium size harbor freight electronic type charger. I wouldn't think it made 15 volts but I will try to find out. After about a half hour charging and with the charger still hooked up, I switched on the key to see If I had any dash lights. They came on but the charger indicated only about 50% charge. I shut off the key and left it to charge. After about 2.5 hours the charger had shut down as it does at full charge. Bike started fine - and exhibited the problem I still have. No speedo or cruise, Red triangle, red 'brake failure'. I've continued to ride it and the brakes seem fine.

 

 

Morning  berniematic

 

It does sort of point to a charging  related issue (high voltage), at least from the info that you posted above.

 

Module masters would be a good starting point (maybe get some more info that way).

 

Otherwise you will need to get GS-911 failure code(s), or get it on a dealer computer.

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EvilTwin
On 8/26/2019 at 8:54 AM, berniematic said:

Help! I ,charged a dead odyssey battery while connected. Then I read the manual and learned I shouldn't do that. Now I have brake failure light, red triangle, no speedo or cruise. The battery seems to be good. Anything I can do to fix this without dropping it off at a dealer?  Thanks much!

 

Maybe a dumb question on my part, but what is the issue with charging the battery while it is still in the bike?  I've seen references about BMW specific chargers, are generic chargers/maintainers a no no?  Is the charging voltage a bit too high for delicate electronics?

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dirtrider
1 hour ago, EvilTwin said:

 

Maybe a dumb question on my part, but what is the issue with charging the battery while it is still in the bike?  I've seen references about BMW specific chargers, are generic chargers/maintainers a no no?  Is the charging voltage a bit too high for delicate electronics?

 

Morning  EvilTwin

 

Yes, anything over 15 or 15.5  charging volts (depends on what BMW service bulletin)  c-o-u-l-d cause electronics damage (at least according to BMW).

BMW even warns of not going over 14.4 volts charging on bikes with a Gel battery (they don't address the why but probably to protect the Gel battery).

 

You would think that BMW & it's electronics suppliers would have built in some over-voltage protection but BMW warns of a possible problem so they must  have seen some issues.

 

From the  hexhead riders manual (red highlighting mine)_

 

"Charging the battery when connected:

 

Charging the connected battery directly at the battery terminals can damage the vehicle electronics. Always disconnect the battery from the on-board circuits before recharging it with a charger connected directly to the battery posts.

 

If you switch on the ignition and the multifunction display and telltale lights fail to light up, the battery is completely flat. Attempting to charge a completely flat battery via the onboard socket can cause damage to the motorcycle's electronics.

 

If a battery has discharged to the extent that it is completely flat, it has to be disconnected from the on-board circuits and charged with the charger connected directly to the battery posts".

 

 

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EvilTwin

Cool.  You are the man....

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