Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Imgnr

Buggered Slave Cylinder Weep Hole

Recommended Posts

Imgnr

Ugh.  I drilled the recommended weep hole right into the sleeve area where the seal is supposed to go.  What should I do?slave.thumb.jpg.dc268fc6ae478b080c34aad1a4491e1f.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Imgnr

Actually I think it might be good.  For some reason, all the pictures of the holes I see online were all before the lip but come to think of it, the seal actually ends before the hole.  I drilled a second hole as well, thinking that the first hole will be covered up.  So now I have two holes.  Guess it should be okay right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lowndes

As long as that "seal area" hole is completely covered by the seal band or "case", it should be just fine.   The trans is lubed by immersion and "splash", not by pressure from a pump like the engine. 

 

Measure the width of the seal "case" (Ws) and the depth in the slave cyl hole of the far side of your weep hole (Dh).  After installing and fully seating the seal, measure the depth to the face of the seal (Ds).  Ds + Ws should be greater than Dh, right??

 

Make sure there are no burrs around the hole in the seal seat.  If you have a finger long enough to reach it and feel any edges sticking up you could try using a chrome plated socket with a slightly smaller outside diameter that the seal seat and on a straight extension to gently "rub" that area to smooth any burrs and ease the seal installation.

 

If you just "had to" plug it, a dab of silicone in the outside end of the hole and a short self-tapping screw of the correct diameter would be a very positive fix.

 

There was about 1/4" gap between the face of that seal and the slave piston in my '99 R1100S, which is your target.  Your second hole will be partially covered by the slave cyl itself.  There was about 1/64" annular space (gap) around the slave cyl that I was not comfortable would provide adequate gravity flow to prevent the DOT4 from going down the clutch rod hole to the clutch disc.  When that happens you or someone else will be seeing all this stuff again.  Replacing the clutch is either a ROYAL pain or very expensive.

 

1767773728_SealSection.JPG.dd9c19b2c2f828624cf38fceb1c3bfb4.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
9 hours ago, Imgnr said:

Actually I think it might be good.  For some reason, all the pictures of the holes I see online were all before the lip but come to think of it, the seal actually ends before the hole.  I drilled a second hole as well, thinking that the first hole will be covered up.  So now I have two holes.  Guess it should be okay right?

 

Morning Imgnr

 

Yes, if the seal sits in front of that hole then you are good to go (might, as the picture makes it look like the hole is rearward of rear end of input shaft). The seal rear face does extend just slightly rearward of the rear end of the input shaft with the sealing lip sitting forward of the rear face so it might just catch a small part of that hole when properly seated.  

 

You might make sure the that the front  hole is well de-burred so it doesn't foul the seal OD as it is driven in.

 

Either hole should function OK as there is clearance between the slave housing & the trans cavity for the rear hole to function  & the front hole, even though slightly higher than the bottom cavity floor, is still well below the  pushrod height.   

 

Added: If I were working with that bike I would probably put a slight wipe (very thin small amount) of anaerobic gasket sealer in front of  the front hole area in the seal seating area  just to be certain that the seal didn't seep gear oil at a later time.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Imgnr
4 hours ago, Lowndes said:

As long as that "seal area" hole is completely covered by the seal band or "case", it should be just fine.   The trans is lubed by immersion and "splash", not by pressure from a pump like the engine. 

 

Measure the width of the seal "case" (Ws) and the depth in the slave cyl hole of the far side of your weep hole (Dh).  After installing and fully seating the seal, measure the depth to the face of the seal (Ds).  Ds + Ws should be greater than Dh, right??

 

Make sure there are no burrs around the hole in the seal seat.  If you have a finger long enough to reach it and feel any edges sticking up you could try using a chrome plated socket with a slightly smaller outside diameter that the seal seat and on a straight extension to gently "rub" that area to smooth any burrs and ease the seal installation.

 

If you just "had to" plug it, a dab of silicone in the outside end of the hole and a short self-tapping screw of the correct diameter would be a very positive fix.

 

There was about 1/4" gap between the face of that seal and the slave piston in my '99 R1100S, which is your target.  Your second hole will be partially covered by the slave cyl itself.  There was about 1/64" annular space (gap) around the slave cyl that I was not comfortable would provide adequate gravity flow to prevent the DOT4 from going down the clutch rod hole to the clutch disc.  When that happens you or someone else will be seeing all this stuff again.  Replacing the clutch is either a ROYAL pain or very expensive.

 

1767773728_SealSection.JPG.dd9c19b2c2f828624cf38fceb1c3bfb4.JPG

Loundes - Thank you for the response; everything you said makes sense but I can't figure out the diagram you attached.  What is if of exactly?  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Imgnr

I installed the seal with the shaft extending about .2cm past the outside edge of the seal. I did not fully sear the seal and do not see the hole at all. I will add gasket maker into the hole from the bottom per Dirtrider’s recommendation. Since I can’t see if the edge of the hole on the inside is covered up by the seal, I might also risk getting gear oil dripping out. 

 

Question: is where I left the seal ok?  Steptoe says to seat it entirely in one of his posts.

 

Thank you to everyone who contributes to this forum. You guys rock. I would love to contribute but as you can see by my limited skill set, I’ll provably make problems worse if I gave advice!  : p

760F820F-FE2F-4C64-9455-08CBDECBFE14.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dirtrider
2 hours ago, Imgnr said:

I installed the seal with the shaft extending about .2cm past the outside edge of the seal. I did not fully sear the seal and do not see the hole at all. I will add gasket maker into the hole from the bottom per Dirtrider’s recommendation. Since I can’t see if the edge of the hole on the inside is covered up by the seal, I might also risk getting gear oil dripping out. 

 

Question: is where I left the seal ok?  Steptoe says to seat it entirely in one of his posts.

 

Thank you to everyone who contributes to this forum. You guys rock. I would love to contribute but as you can see by my limited skill set, I’ll provably make problems worse if I gave advice!  : p

 

 

Afternoon Imgnr

 

Per your first picture I really thought that you would have more hole showing behind the seal (goes to show that judging things from an internet  picture is not always accurate).

 

The BMW service manual doesn't give a seal seating  depth 'plus' the BMW special  tool for driving the seal in does not have a stop step to limit tool travel so that means that the seal goes in until it stops  (fully seated all the way in).  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Imgnr

Dirt rider - thank you. Do you think I should tap it all the way in?  I thought the entire hole would be behind the seal when I examined the picture on my computer. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Imgnr

So, I tapped it all the way in even though other forums say that there’s an oil channel. Dirt rider and the other advice I’ve received here have not let me down yet so if they say to fully seat it, then that's what I'll do. Lo and behold, the hole appeared. 

 

If there’s a lesson here it’s that the hole is really hard to drill accurately and the drill bit will tend to angle in. Be very careful!

 

Also, in case anyone needs to pull the input shaft seal, I tried using a couple of seal picks to remove the it and wasted an hour. Screwed in a wood screw and yanked it straight out. 

1A3B10D7-1CEA-433F-9400-E957813912B2.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lowndes
On 8/11/2019 at 11:30 AM, Imgnr said:

Loundes - Thank you for the response; everything you said makes sense but I can't figure out the diagram you attached.  What is if of exactly?  

 

Imgnr,

 

The diagram is a "section" of a seal like the one you installed.  If you cut your seal in half with a band saw and looked at one of the cuts, this is a detailed drawing of it with the names of the parts, that's all.

 

From your last pic above with the first hole visible now, it looks like you are good to go.  No need to plug that hole now.  Good job!!  And if Dirt Rider says it's OK to drive a seal all the way in, you can take it to the bank.

Seal section pic.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Imgnr
6 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Imgnr,

 

The diagram is a "section" of a seal like the one you installed.  If you cut your seal in half with a band saw and looked at one of the cuts, this is a detailed drawing of it with the names of the parts, that's all.

 

From your last pic above with the first hole visible now, it looks like you are good to go.  No need to plug that hole now.  Good job!!  And if Dirt Rider says it's OK to drive a seal all the way in, you can take it to the bank.

Seal section pic.JPG

Thank you for your time!!!  Helping others with no expectation of reward is indeed the definition of altruism. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lowndes

Just the "Four R's" of this obsession: Riding, Reading, wRenching, and wRiting!!

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...