Brake Fluid Flush

[bmwdavid]

Sent my bike in for 600 mile service. 2016 R1200RT with 600 miles. Dealer says even though it has 600 miles it’s been 2 years(bought as leftover), plus the time it sat at dealer etc... They recommended a brake fluid flush so ABS doesn’t get contaminated. Not knowing better I agreed to have them do it. $150 extra.

[wbw6cos]

You would be amazed at the difference between 2 year old fluid and fresh.   The color on the old fluid should be noticeably darker, although you could ask the Service Mgr to save you a sample to compare.  Moisture is the biggest culprit, which tends to be present from condensation (temp differences) unless it sat in the a/c controlled showroom the whole time.  Either way, you cannot go wrong with flushing it.  On my C with ABS II, I do it annually .  I just got the new RT in January, so that will be done (by the dealer) per my request; I do not know where that lines up in the service schedule intervals, but it will be done every year.  (Perhaps I should go read the Owner's Maintnenance manual.)  

 

Cheers,

 

[bmwdavid]

It’s a reputable dealer and I’m thinking it was a good choice to change it. They also said the battery was reading 12.3 but said I should put it on the charger and see how it holds up.

[Skywagon]

I change my fluid every year.  It's super easy and traditional on the wet heads.  It was a royal PIA on the 1150's.  You can change front and rear fluid in about 30 minutes.  I agree with the dealer to change it after 2 years, but...$150 seems high, but probably market/book pricing.  Learn to do it yourself as it is rewarding and a heck of a lot cheaper.  A pint of fluid is less that $10.  

[Paul4450]

I installed speed bleeders to make the task very easy. The only cost $7.50 each plus shipping at speedbleeder.com. It takes 3 different sizes, if I remember correctly. A GS911 is needed to flush the ABS circuit. 

[LAF]

6 hours ago, Paul4450 said:

I installed speed bleeders to make the task very easy. The only cost $7.50 each plus shipping at speedbleeder.com. It takes 3 different sizes, if I remember correctly. A GS911 is needed to flush the ABS circuit. 

Yes three different sizes.  Cant figure that out?  Two I can see as the rear is a bit smaller sized caliper.

 

Speed bleeders make it easy but a IV bag and hose works just as well.  One kink in the tube and it fills with fluid and it cant draw air even on a regular bleeder.  Back in the day we used a jar and fish air line tubing pushed the hose to the bottom with a bit of fluid in it and it cant draw air. 

 

While it is true a GS-911 will vibrate the ABS unit by making it turn on and off  helping to vibrate the air out of the unit and open the abs valves.  However   not having that would not stop me from doing it at home for like 15 bucks with the IV bag from Speed Bleeders.   If you must after the change then go take it out on some gravel and make the ABS kick in and you have just flushed the ABS unit. 

 

No speed bleeders and no GS-911 needed and a very overlooked maintenance that is very simple to do.

[strataj]

Yes Lee three different size.  http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle Sizes.htm#BMW I put speed bleeders on at my first change, I helped Speed Bleeders with sizing (great folks).  Just did a brake service, it takes no time at all and it's a one person job. 

 

Jay

[AndyS]

SB8125L right

SB6100 left

SB1010S rear

 

Most strange.

[Oldrider51]

Thanks for the info on the Speed Bleeders. What brake fluid is being used for this service? I use Pentosin DOT4 LV for my GTI and 04 R1100S ABS. 

 

has anyone come up with a pressure bleeder for the LC series? 

[strataj]

28 minutes ago, 041100S said:

Thanks for the info on the Speed Bleeders. What brake fluid is being used for this service? I use Pentosin DOT4 LV for my GTI and 04 R1100S ABS. 

 

has anyone come up with a pressure bleeder for the LC series? 

I get a bottle of Prestone Dot 4 at Wal Mart.  No need to pressure bleed, simple and easy to pump the lever/peddle with the speed bleeder open just a little.  Just keep checking to make sure you keep fluid up so you don't go dry and suck air into the line.  

 

Jay

[Skywagon]

one of the tricks you can do to keep brake fluid from squirting out of the top of your master when you squeeze the lever is put a razor blade over the hole.  As you know brake fluid is one heck of a paint remover so be sure really cover the painted surfaces.

[Bill_Walker]

3 hours ago, Skywagon said:

one of the tricks you can do to keep brake fluid from squirting out of the top of your master when you squeeze the lever is put a razor blade over the hole.  As you know brake fluid is one heck of a paint remover so be sure really cover the painted surfaces.

 

Yep.  Just don't forget to remove the razor blade when you're done!

[JamesW]

Drop in a quarter.  It's heavier and probably easier to remove.

[PadG]

You guys must be really pumping the handle to get the master cylinder squirting up!    Never had that happening to me.

[John]

I wouldn't put anything in the reservoir to stop splash back of fluid. That's just another means of introducing a contaminant to the fluid. I just loosely fit the cap (and have done so since the 80's).

 

Keep it simple 

[Pappy35]

1 hour ago, John said:

I wouldn't put anything in the reservoir to stop splash back of fluid. That's just another means of introducing a contaminant to the fluid. I just loosely fit the cap (and have done so since the 80's).

 

Keep it simple 

Agree completely. I just place the cap back on. There's not enough blowback pressure to pop it off. That or just let the handle out slowly after pumping.