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Poco183

Final Drive Bolt

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Poco183

I'm in the process of competing my first 12 K service on my 16 RT. Everything has been going great. I'm really enjoying doing the service and learning more about the bike. The one problem I've run into  in the bolt on the final drive is really stuck. The bolt is the one which attaches to the frame and allow you access to the final drive. I've watched Boxflyer's videos and he commented that the bolt is really tight. Mine is ridiculously tight. I was able to move it about 1/4 turn but that's it. I'm afraid I might  strip the head or snap the bolt. I was thinking about trying to put some heat on it, but I don't want to damage the finish on the final drive. I also tried some Liquid Wrench without success. Any ideas?

I spoke to the service manger at my local dealership and he said they never take the bolt out, because they don't service the splines or grease the boot. Should I try to get in there to grease the splines or just leave it alone.

Thanks for your help. 

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strataj

I did mine for the first time last week.  I think you are talking about the bolt that attaches the final drive to the paralever brace.   That bolt does have loctite on it.  Mine was hard to remove but not like yours, it came out clean with a little red in color.  I understand it should be blue loctite not red, red requires heat to remove.  I'd put some heat on it, focus the heat on the bolt not the paralever brace.  Since you moved it some you'll need to finish the job.  Mine splines had lube and no rust.  14R1200RT with 36k.  

 

Jay

 

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AndyS
2 hours ago, Poco183 said:

....the bolt on the final drive is really stuck. The bolt is the one which attaches to the frame and allow you access to the final drive.

 

Can you help me understand what bolt you are talking about?

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AZgman

The paralever bolt requires heat to remove. You can snap the bolt, your wrench, or just get it really stuck if you try to remove it without heat. I would recommend using a heat gun, which you can get at a Harbor Freight for about $10. Works a treat, as they say. Once you get the bolt out, be sure to either replace it with a new one, or clean the treads to remove any remaining loctite. You should then use blue loctite for reassembly.

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Cap

BMW uses thread locker that is red, and is not permanent.  The red color of actual Loctite brand indicates their product 271, which is "heavy duty" and intended to be removable only with heat.  So, the takeaway is, BMW red and Loctite red ARE NOT THE SAME THING.  In particular, do not use Loctite 271 to replace BMW red.

 

The paralever bolt should be removable without heat.  It does have thread locker on it, and will benefit from wire brushing when you get it out.  Use non-permanent thread locker on it when you replace it.  No need for a new bolt.  Having said that, if you are having trouble, application of localized heat can't hurt.

 

Cap

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AndyS

That bolt has a micro - encapsulant on it. That means it is a one shot item. It may look like it has a locking compound, but once used that compound doesn't work a second time. It needs removal (solvent and/or wire brush), and then a thread locker needs to be applied. As noted above, the manual does not call for heat to be applied, but personally, I would. Just be careful about how you apply it and make sure the heat permeates as far as it needs to for a successful softening of the adhesive.

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Pappy35

Heat from a hairdryer will be fine. No need to reach for a MAP propane torch. Get some freeze spray too.

 

The sequence would be: heat with a hairdryer until you get it up to, say, 140-150F, then hit the bolt head and exposed threads with freeze spray. Repeat as needed until it comes out. New bolts are only a few dollars (they have whats called "encapsulated" thread locker) but, I agree with the others that it could reinstalled if thoroughly cleaned and blue Loctite applied for primary retention. 

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Cap

When replacing, torque to 56 N-M

 

What I recall, is that it was hard to turn all the way out.  But the 56 N-M torque spec gives you some sense of how much torque is too much when removing it.  You know the bolt will handle at least that much.

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Poco183

Thanks for all the advice. I am going to start out with a hair dryer and work my way up to the $10 heat gun from Harbor Freight. I love working on my bike but I'm not a mechanic. This is way I love this forum. It gives me the confidence to do the work and know that if I have a problem someone out there will be able to give me good advice. 

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dirtrider
25 minutes ago, Poco183 said:

Thanks for all the advice. I am going to start out with a hair dryer and work my way up to the $10 heat gun from Harbor Freight. I love working on my bike but I'm not a mechanic. This is way I love this forum. It gives me the confidence to do the work and know that if I have a problem someone out there will be able to give me good advice. 

 

Afternoon  Poco183

 

That bolt is a 10mm grade 10.9 so can go 75-80 nm (or slightly higher) for removal,  note: the bolt can go that high but the alloy it screws into probably can't so don't ever tighten it that tight.

 

  

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Pappy35

Check out Chris Harris' channel on YouTube. The actual work he's doing only applies to older BMWs but he is full of all kinds of "lessons-learned" kind of tidbits (like that freeze spray for example). Very, eh, "salty" language used throughout but he's very funny. Watch he older stuff.

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Pappy35
1 minute ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  Poco183

 

That bolt is a 10mm grade 10.9 so can go 75-80 nm (or slightly higher) for removal,  note: the bolt can go that high but the alloy it screws into probably can't so don't ever tighten it that tight.

 

  

 Hey Poco,

 

I was looking at the MaxBMW fiche about this and didn't see a nut listed (I have a Camhead which has a nut for that bolt). Does it just thread into the FD housing? If so then yeah, better watch that tightening torque for sure.

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Poco183

I applied a little heat with a gun and the bolt came out. Damn they put those things on tight. 

After doing the service, I started putting it back together. I couldn’t find the wheel speed sensor screw. I looked for it for over an hour, crawling around on my hands and knees with my shop light. Little did I know it was in my hand the whole time. 

443A3E2B-75C2-42AF-A034-DA911E9429EB.jpeg

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alegerlotz

14746d1446987028-bring-out-your-memes-si

 

The Light blue section applies to nuts and bolts as well...

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Poco183
6 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon  Poco183

 

That bolt is a 10mm grade 10.9 so can go 75-80 nm (or slightly higher) for removal,  note: the bolt can go that high but the alloy it screws into probably can't so don't ever tighten it that tight.

 

  

Thanks for doing the research on how much force I could apply. I set the torque wrench at 70 nm to be on the safe side. The heat did the trick but your numbers gave me comfort knowing that I wasn't using too much torque. You are a wealth of knowledge. 

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